• 
• 1 answer

As I understand it......

The Filter is embedded in the transmission. The dealership drops the tranny to replace it.

If you are having shifting problems join the club. There may be a recall on your specific vehicle. Check with the dealer but do your homework by checking the internet first. Good luck.

Adam/1998 3.0 CL owner

• 
• 1 answer

Some translations of "hello" into Russian:

1) Formal greeting while meeting someone or calling by phone is "Zdravstvuyte!" (plural and also polite imperative form of the verb "zdravstvovat'" which means "to live healthy and prosperous life"); a more informal greeting is the singular form "Zdravstvuy!" used with close friends (with whom you are on first name terms).

2) While answering a phone call Russians use the French word "Allo!"

I am confused! It seems like my answer done more than two years ago, but to another question! Did the questioner/inquirer changed his/her original question?

The answer to 'forget me not' is:

1) if it is a phrase : 'Ne zahbyv(a)i menya'

2) if it is a flower 'forget-me-not': 'nezahbudka'!

• 
• 1 answer

You should use "Honda Power Steering Fluid" ONLY!

• 
• 1 answer

replace your cad converter.....po410 means your converter is starting to get pluged up and does not let exhaust flow

• 
• 1 answer

Correction: to remove the alternator,first you have to remove the master cylinder, and take off the wheel guard by the wheel well(maybe 3 plug in screws) so that you can get at the alternator bolt. Once you get the upper and lower bolts off, use something to pry it out with (2x4 works well), then carefully slide it out, tight squeeze but can be done, and there you go. At the most, maybe 2-3 hrs.

Correct correction, don't remove the master cylinder, you have to bleed the brakes and getting to the mounting hardware and removing the brake lines can be disaster. I have been a mechanic for over 30 years. Do this instead;

remove the left wheel-remove the upper ball joint cover, two 10mm nuts cover the castle nut, remove the castle nut. Remove the strut assembly bolt from the lower control arm, that will give you the necessary travel to remove the driveshaft, that's what is really you need to do to remove and drop the alternator out. Now remove the lower mounting bolt from the wishbone from the lower control arm, this will allow more travel to remove the driveshaft. Remove the upper control arm ball joint nut. You have to release the tension of the upper ball joint to the upper control arm, one way is to use an expensive removal tool or thread the castle nut back on the ball joint stud just enough to protect the threads from being damaged. The object here is to pop the ball joint stud out of the control arm, this is when you have to be careful-I used a lead faced hammer or you can use a brass faced hammer, remember the idea here is to protect the threads. It will take a couple of brave licks to free the balljoint stud from the spindle. I also removed the brake hose securing attachment to allow more freedom for the brake hose. Remove the castle nut from the end of the driveshaft, it's gonna take a big socket, be careful to use a punch to get the locking face of the nut away from the groove of the shaft, take your time and move with small hits on the punch.When that is done remove the driveshaft. I will take some prying from the inner half shaft, be careful not to damage any of the soft rubber boots surrounding the CV joints. The left side of the drive shaft is in two pieces, the inner shaft stays put. Swing the spindle assembly toward the rear of the car and that will give you enough clearance to remove the shaft and finagle the alternator out.Remember to get some cotter pins, if you can save the old ones, good. Don't forget to relearn the computer idle speed calibration, I did the first time and had to disconnect the battery and relearn the computer.

• 
• 1 answer

Remove wheel, remove caliper from mount, not from the brake line or the cable, get proper tool for working on rear disk brakes then twist the piston and compress it back into the caliper, install in reverse order.

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

on the backside of the intake

• 
• 1 answer

The radiator is more than likely plastic and cannot be repaired ..DO NOT use any of those quick fix things like the radiator repair crud .. just take it like a man and replace the radiator............

• 
• 1 answer

You open the glove box and you will see two black plastic pieces toward the top on either side of the glove box. This is what is holding the glove box up. Get a screw drive and pop these off. the glove box will fall down. Then you will see a white plastic box this is where your filters are...open it and pull both out and replace

FOR 2009-2010 TL - OPEN THE GLOVE BOX - PULL THE CENTER SHELF TOWARDS YOU - IT POPS OUT - BEHIND THAT IS THE FACE PLATE FOR THE FILTER TRAY - PUSH THE TABS ON THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE IN AND REMOVE TRAY - THE FILTER JUST SITS IN THE TRAY - REPLACE WITH AFTER MARKET FILTER AND REVERSE THE PROCESS - MUCH EASIER THAN THE 2008 AND OLDER TLs!

• 
• 1 answer

the easiest way to do this is by disconnecting the battery for about 3 minutes and connect it back. Make sure you have the radio code before doing this because after the radio resets it will ask for the code. This method will also reset the GPS in the car and the GPS will also ask for the code to turn on.

• 
• 1 answer

where"s the solenoid for a acura cl 2001

• 
• 1 answer

ive got mine up to 135 at 4500rpm's so ittl go pretty fast

• 
• 1 answer

24" drivers side and 20" passenger side. Be sure to always lookup the exact part numbers for the brand of wipers you decide to purchase by asking the clerk, using the book, or by looking it up online. This not only ensures the correct lengths but also the correct attachments. FYI - there are over 22 wiper arm attachments out there - so its not only length you're buying but also attachment (no wiper blade is 100% universal). See related links below.

• 
• 2 answers

It’s under the passenger side rug behind some kind of metal housing you have to remove to get to it

• 
• 1 answer

• 
• 1 answer

They are used cars that the dealer has gone over and Certified to be in tip top condition. Great buy, better warranty than a new car for less money.

• 
• 1 answer

You have to fill it up where the transmission dipstick is. It requires a small funnel. There is no other place to fill the transmission fluid up. The dipstick is to the left side of the motor and down low.

• 
• 1 answer

Blown fuse? Freon leak? Suggest you take it and have it checked to be sure.

• 
• 1 answer

When you type 789 x 789 = into your calculator you would get 622521. you should try it.

• 
• 1 answer

follow the fuel rail. its mounted down below the master cylinder near the subframe.

• 
• 1 answer

It looks like you are a do it yourself person, so your going to have get a new pedal and have wearever the fluid is leaking out replaced.

• 
• 1 answer

It means one of the brake lamp bulbs is blown or maybe there's a wiring problem. In any case, your brake lights are not fully functional.

• 
• 1 answer

There are three screws that go into the door and affect the lock. These may have been stripped and fallen out. Just needs new screws.

• 
• 1 answer

Go to auto zone(free) if its just an engine diagnostic (engine light...etc.) (plug might be behind ashtray/earlier models)