It is probably the heat shield that is between the converter and the bottom of the car. It does what the name. They can be a pain to fix properly. I have always tried fixing mine but the "rattling" noise would always return sooner or later. I ended up taking mine off. Plus these heat shields get old and tend to vibrate relentlessly. Best best is to have someone you know take a look and see what they can do.
Yes it is, and it can cost anywere from $80.00 to $200.00 to fix.
It is also possible that the ceramic compount "honeycomb" in the catalytic converter is breaking apart and/or broke loose inside the converter. If this is the case, you *might* fail emissions but it shouldn't hurt anything (other than failing emissions).
just buy a clamp for your heatsheild.. its the cheapest and easiest fix.
I fixed my heatshield with a screw gun and some self tapping screws . The shield is spotwelded in place. Find the areas that have came loose and screw, I used 3/8 inch panheads that where galvinized, they hold up to the heat very well and I hav'nt had anymore problems. I did this 2yrs ago and have had no problems.
A long, multi-page resume is called a Curriculum Vitae (CV). It is Latin for "course of one's life."
According to Resume Edge (an online consulting group that charges about $100 to professionally rewrite CVs and resumes) you should use a CV in professional industries such as "medicine, law, education, science, and media (television, film, etc.)," and if you are applying for a job in a country outside of the U.S.
For more advice on how to write a CV, click on the link to the right.NoteIn Britain the term "curriculum vitae" (abbreviated CV) is synonymous with "resume" and you shouldn't produce anything longer than you would if applying for a similar job in America. Obviously, if applying for a demanding professional post for which one can expect fierce competition one needs to be extra clever.
That said, employers in Europe can't spend ages reading every applicant's life history, so make your CV reader friendly, so that essentials are easily recognizable. For example, if applying for an academic post or for a creative job in the media, list publications (and also photographic portfolios and the like) separately under their own heading(s). Don't interrupt a list of academic publications or of creative achievements with details of routine administrative functions.Alternate_ ">AlternateBasically the primary differences between a resume and a curriculum vitae (CV) are the length, what is included and what each is used for. A resume is a one or two page summary of your skills, experience and education. While a resume is brief and concise - no more than a page or two, a Curriculum Vitae is a longer (at least two page) and more detailed synopsis.
A Curriculum Vitae includes a summary of your educational and academic backgrounds as well as teaching and research experience, publications, presentations, awards, honors, affiliations and other details. In Europe, the Middle East, Africa, or Asia, employers expect to receive a curriculum vitae. A curriculum vitae is used primarily when applying for academic, education, scientific or research positions. It is also applicable when applying for fellowships or grants.
Sometimes the boots crack in a seam and hard to find. If there is grease there is a rip.
then check wheel balance
It could be your alignment. If it's off it shakes.
If the vibration is from about 45 mph and faster the tires are out of balance or bad.
If its vibrating at a slower speed you have a bad suspension part and if it vibrates at idle you need a diagnostic and possibly a tune-up.
First check the balance of your tires. This is the cheapest scenario. Then the suspension and allignment.
you could also have a separated or broken belt in the tire
50$ if you do it your self which isn't to hard baring you have the right tools. mostly a 36mm socket to remove cv nut, free at autozone. good luckk
There are places that sell axels already rebuilt as cheap as you can replace the joints.
Call your local parts stores.
If the CV boot is torn open forget about re-booting the joint, buy a re manufactured axle and replace it as suggested above. If the boot is starting to crack or separate but has not torn open to the point you can see the cv joint itself you can re-boot it.
To replace the boot and/or half shaft axle in an 86-91 Honda: First, remove the wheel cover and loosen the 36mm nut holding the joint to the bearing. Then raise the vehicle and remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and the knuckle. If your working on the passenger side, drain the transmission. Slide the half shaft out of the knuckle then use a prybar and pry the inboard end of the shaft out of the transmission or intermediate shaft, which ever should apply. Be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission. Installing the shaft is the reverse of removal. The inboard side of the shaft should snap right back into the intermediate shaft and transmission by means of a snap ring on the end of the shaft.
A wheel bearing could.
It is not cost-effective to attempt to replace just the CV joints. Rebuilt CV shafts are available for as little as $60.
well i hope you have a rack but i know that you don't me nither ok first jack the car in the air about 3 feet support car with jack stands and use just the jack. using a pickel fork to pop out not remove the tie rod end trying not to rip the greese boot once out move out of your way be tieing up using whit ever you find or have handy.don't forget to remove the nut from the tierod end befor poping apart . next remove the nut and bolt from balljoint then with a pry bar lission in my thought anything can be used that is small like to fit between the a-arm to pulldown and out. at this time you will be able to move the strut,brake calibel,rotor.next take axel nut off 32-34mm socket tap end of cv shakt with nut still on end of shaft side a is out side b with small pry bar slide between cv and transmission case and swiftly pry back on cv have rag ready to shove in where cv came out . elliotts9 PS repeat all backwards to install cv shaft
This is a key symptom of the CV (constant velocity) joint in the axle assembly is failing.
Ambitious, but certainly 'doable' for the DIYer, and should be something less than an 'arm & a leg' to have done by a mechanic.
Note: one source, O'Reillys, prices axles between $85-110
If the axle itself is needing replacement, that's not such a bad job. Involves mostly the same as replacing wheel bearing/hub assembly.
The added steps are in actually pulling the axle shaft out of the transmission and inserting/setting the new one in.
I would encourage anyone doing this to gather more information from a manual, or at least the very fine *free* "Repair Guide" over at Autozone.com
NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.
To check, lift the front of the car and place it on jack stands. Reach up and grab the center shaft and push and pull on it (side to side motion). There should only be marginal side to side play.
Also look at dust boots at the joints to see if they are ripped open or torn.
See "Related Questions" below for the ball joint procedure information and more.
Do not repalce just the joints. It is easier and cheaper to purchase a replacement rebuilt cv axle. I have found the best deal and good help at my local Bumper To Bumper Auto Parts store. You should be able to purchase one for under $100.
As to how to do it, check you local library. They should have a repair manual.
Generall when your car's CV joints are gone you will hear a clunking noise coming from the front CV's usually when turning corners but may happen regularly when they are really bad. Generally what causes them to go is the boot is split which allows dirt in and destroys the joint. Stick your head under the car and if the boots around the joints are split....its time for new (or reconditioned) CV's
You will hear a clicking noise on turns
It is usually most noticeable when pulling out left or right from a stop sign. You will hear a clicking/clunking noise, increasing with the speed of the wheels and fading as the steering wheel returns to a centered position. This is made by the outer CV joints, as the most stresses are placed on them they tend to wear out faster.
If the flexible rubber boot around the CV joint is torn, and/or there is evidence of grease leakage present, they will rapidly wear without immediate maintenance.
I think you mean axle shaft joint. The usual symptom of a bad axle shaft joint is a crunching noise when turning corners.
apart from a visual check, leaking or split boots etc, the best way to get a CV joint to misbehave on demand is to drive on full locks from side to side. this puts the joint under maximum stress and will produce a knocking noise if faulty robb
1. Physically examine the rubber "boots" that cover the cv joints. If they are cracked or leaking grease and you haven't dealt with the problem IMMEDIATELY, the cv joints are probably bad.
2. When turning the wheel sharp, if the front end makes a clicking or banging noise when the vehicle moves you almost certainly have bad cv joints.
when you make right and left turns and a clicking noise is present or if when the car is jacked up the rubber boots on the cv joints are expose.
Clicking noises from the front wheel(s) while turning.
Also, inspect the CV joint rubber boots - if they're torn, you're almost guaranteed to have to ultimately replace the half-axel.
When my Taurus CV joint completely broke in half (because I didn't know about the symptomatic clicking noise!), it was in the parking lot of the repair shop! Good timing.
A (CV) Constant Velocity boot covers a precision power transfer joint. The broken "boot" allows contamination of the joint. Broken boot = early mechanical failure.
If you mean a CV joint (constant velocity joint on front-wheel drive car drive train), then go ask a car repair shop. It depends on the make and model and whether the joint is frozen, ie hard to undo, plus the cost of the new part and rubber boots, etc. At least $300, probably more like $600. If you mean something else, then you should make it plain when you ask the question and also make the context clear, ie cars, radios, etc. Otherwise not many people are going to know what you mean and probably fewer would bother answering your (lazy) question. If in fact you are asking about a CB radio clubhouse that you wanted to break up because they were causing interference, well, that's a totally different question.........
It really isn't hard but you need direction. Get a manual on your car from AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM
Jack up the car and place jack stands under a solid area Peen the safety lock on the axle nut with a hammer an chiesel Remove the axle nut with a strong impact gun and a 1 1/4" socket Remove the brake caliper & hang it with a tie wrap Remove the brake shoe housing Remove tie rod from spindle Remove the ABS wire harness clip in strut Remove the 2 strut bolts with a 17mm socket and wrenches Remove lower ball joint locking bolt Swing down spindle assembly and remove axle assembly from outer splines Knock out axe from transmission side
Note: If axle is seized in hub, spindle assemble must be removed with axle attached and then heated and removed.
apply parking brakes jack front end of car up and put on jack stands remove tires remove brakes and rotor remove spindle by taking of twwo bolts and nuts pull spindle forward take off cv bot clamps and cv shaft will slide out
Take it to a mechanic!
I agree with the last answer, an independent one. You replace the shaft, not the jont-not worth just doing the joint!
Changing the front CV joint on a 4-cylinder (1987) is easy. Napa sells the half-shaft with a new boot and cv joint for less than $70. It took longer to get the car jacked up, to read the manual, finding out you don't have to disconnect any of the steering parts (on the pax side) that they tell you too in the manual, and the general 1st time caution, than the actual job. If I had to change it again I think it can be done in less than a 1/2 hour.
The most difficult step is removing (not as difficult as replacing) and replacing the new shaft into the tranny. You will need to use a wooden block for the replacement (long 2X4) and large sledge. It (the replacement) will be a two man operation regardless of the tools of choice. You may find a special tool for this but to use it effectively you will need to dis-assemble more of the wheel assembly that is necessary if using the wood/sledge approach. Common sense should be applied during all stages of frustration. Good luck!
Go to your local auto parts store, or large book store and pick up a copy of either a Haynes or Chiltons manual. Their detail and simplicity make them relatively easy to use. The Haynes manual is usually the cheaper of the two; about $15.00. Good luck, read all the information first and be safe.
Often, you will hear a popping or clicking sound when you are in a turn.
First signs of a bad cv is, clicking noise when making a sharp turn. Alot of times the cv boot ( rubber boot that covers the cv joint and holds the grease in ) tears and leaks the grease out, you can turn the wheel all the way and take a look at the boot where the axle attaches to the wheel if there is a rip you will see grease everywhere, if the cv isn't clicking yet it will soon.
Have you look for dirt and water in transfer case, pumkins? drain the oil and add new in the pumkins takeoff inspection plate look to see what is going on. This will save you money especially if you can fix it yourself.
Grinding noise sounds like the linkage is not adjusted correctly.
check joints in front drive shaft
If the CV boot is torn open forget about re-booting the joint, buy a remanufactured axle and replace it. If the boot is starting to crack or separate but has not torn open to the point you can see the cv joint itself you can re-boot it.
First, remove the wheel cover and loosen the 36mm nut holding the joint to the bearing. Then raise the vehicle and remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm and the knuckle. If your working on the passenger side, drain the transmission. Slide the half shaft out of the knuckle then use a prybar and pry the inboard end of the shaft out of the transmission or intermediate shaft, which ever should apply. Be careful not to damage the seal in the transmission. Installing the shaft is the reverse of removal. The inboard side of the shaft should snap right back into the intermediate shaft and transmission by means of a snap ring on the end of the shaft.
Additional info: Draining the fluid first is not necessary.
check for worn out brakes
check the wheel bearing - if it's a constant grinding noise, it is probably the bearing. New ones cost around $100 or so from an auto parts store. You can change it yourself if you have some skill, and you can actually do the change without removing the whole spindle assembly - the bearing is attached to the spindle by 3 bolts on the engine side of the spindle. Remember to take off the axle nut first, so that the bearing can just slide off of it. And also remember to disconnect the ABS sensor - and reconnect it when done.
If it makes a clicking, grinding, rattling, or other noise when you accelerate with the steering turned it is not safe.
They make no real noise. Have themn inspected by a professional if you suspect they are worn. There is no real noise they make, but any noise from the front end could result in bad things. So, if you hear any noise, I recommend that you go get it checked out. One thing I do know that they will tell you though, when your car is up in the air, try grabbing ahold of the bottom and top of the outside of the tire and try moving the tire back and forth gently. If there is ANY play, chances are, something needs to be replaced. sometimes they will make a popping sound while turning.
Buy a split boot from the parts store- that way you won't have to remove the shaft.
As long as you have the half shaft out, why not replace it since there is probably some damage to it from having a damaged boot?
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