It has to do with emitions. Your sensor is either bad or one or you plugs are bad. Change your plugs first then disconnect your negative cable from your battery for at least 20 seconds to reset your trouble lights. If that does not clear up the problem change your catilitic converter sensors and clear your trouble lights again. try replace the vehicle speed sensor in the transmission, that should take care of the problem.
More than likely DOT3. The correct fluid is listed in your owner's manual and on the top of the master cylinder cap.
It varies with what part of the country you live in. Call a couple of local garages for estimates.
under dash, pasenger side
remove timing cover, on the left cam sprocket(closer to inside of vehicle) you will see the letter (I)for intake and a notch above it on the valve cover align those marks.Next on the right cam sprocket you will see the letter (E) for exhaust and a notch above it on the valve cover align those marks.Last you have a notch on your crank sprocket, align that notch with the arrow just above it.Align all marks then turn belt to revolutions and see if marks are stilled aligned if not try again until you get it right.If so put everything back together and "happy driving!"
i have a 98 kia sephia, and i actually had to take the (left) motor mount off to raise the engine to allow removal clearance. use a regular floor jack but choose a good spot and a scrap piece of wood to lift motor. using caution and a little patience, it can be done. p.s. the oem kia alternator , is surprisingly cheap.....and the quality is that of what kia fans can expect....?! good luck
I recommend removing the intake manifold to allow clearance, no matter what the design is less than helpful as it should not be necessary to do that ...30 minute job turns into 2 hour job
Hey. You got to start off by taking off you alternator belt. Once that is dont you got to then take your the intake off. Once your intake is off you then take the two bolts, one concter and you positive off the alternator then it will then slide out. Remember when taking off alternator clean conector before putting in new one. Be patient... Good Luck.
Damn this 3rd answer. Someone needs to take a spelling class
My Chilton's manual makes this sound really easy, but its like birthing a baby using forceps, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold or jack up the engine. Here is what I did.
1. Unbolt the main electrical cable from the alternator.
2. Unplug the control wires. The plug has a locking clip that must be pushed toward the wiring.
3. Loosen the pivot bolt on the bottom of the alternator, which has to be reached from underneath the car.
4. Then from above loosen the tensioning bolt and the tensioning mounting bolt. Remove the belt and remove the bolts. Remove the tensioning bracket and tensioning bracket bolt. (Chilton's says to just swing it out of the way, but it wouldn't stay out of the way, and you need all the room you can make)
5. Unclip the fuel line from its mounting clips and gently push the fuel line out of the way.
6. Disconnect all the power steering lines and get them out of the way. This makes a mess unless you drain the power steering fluid first or plug the open tubes with caps or plugs. Remove the power steering line mounting bracket. Also take off the mounting bolt for the A/C lines.
7. Take a piece of 14 gage wire or a coat hangar and hook it on to the alternator like a handle, so you can pull on the alternator without having your hands in the way.
8. Gently pull the alternator out with one hand pulling on the wire handle and the other hand pushing all the other tubes out of the way. I found that the pinch point was between the end of the fuel rail and the air conditioning lines. The skinniest part of the alternator is perpendicular to the rotor and between the mounting points.
9. Disconnect nearest cable from the cruise control box. Mine just twisted off with a 1/4 turn.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal.
If you just remove the power steering brackets you can get it far enough out of the way to remove the alternator
Go to Streetkiaz.com and sign up !!Look in the how to forums for your answer
Ignition switch removal is not too bad. The plastic cover around the steering column has 3-4 screws in it. They are on the underside facing the floor. Remove these screws and the plastic cover will snap off. That will expose the ignition switch. The switch itself has a couple of screws holding it in place. Remove those screws and unplug it from the wire harness on the back. That's it.
the oxygen sensor is on the exhaust manifold, to get to it you will need to take off the air intake box under the hood...you will see the sensor sticking out the manifold in plain view, against the radiator
Following the fuel line is always the way to find the filter. However, I just finished replacing the filter on my wife's 2000 Sephia. It is just forward of the passenger side rear wheel. It is connected to three lines with quick disconnect fittings. You don't need any special tools to remove them, just push in the flat buttons on either side of the connectors. When you put the lines back on, just push them on firmly, and then check to see if they are all the way on by pulling them as if to remove them again.
You can change the fuel filter and that might do it. If it doesn't it can get quite complicated. Take it to a good mechanic. Also, try replacing or cleaning the spark plugs, distributor cap, and wires attached to the spark plugs. I had the same problem with my Sephia. A little tune-up should fix it nicely.
go to installdr.com they have a wide variety of free information that pertains to car stereo wiring information. You can use a AAA battery to find out what speakers are what; with the car battery disconnected put one end of the wire on on terminal and keep trying different wires on the other end until you hear a small pop.
CHECK THE FUSE PANEL DASH & TAIL LIGHTS WORK FROM SAME FUSE
By finding the cause of the overheating. It is normally, bad thermostat, bad water pump, clogged radiator, either internally or externally, a defective cooling fan, or defective cooling fan relay.
Battery?? do the headlights work? gas gauge?? does it work? any?? starter?? does it turn over? air filter??? is it clogged?? spark plugs?? are they dirty and/or firing?? no fire?? check distibutor?? injector??? is there gas getting to the it?
It is NOT an easy task. Unless you have a good assortment of tools and a good mechanical understanding, you can mess up lots of things costing more than it would at first. Good luck.
Buy a split boot from the parts store- that way you won't have to remove the shaft.
As long as you have the half shaft out, why not replace it since there is probably some damage to it from having a damaged boot?
It is probably missing. Take it to a garage to find out what is causing it.
I've also found that if it's just a slight vibration you can change your spark plugs, change the PCV Valve and make sure you air filter has been changed lately. I had a problem with it shaking when the AC was on and through simply spending $40 to update those items the vibration subsided.
An A/C compressor takes about 6 horsepower to turn it and when an engine is idleing, it is producing about 30 hp so when you take away 6 hp from 30, it puts quite a load on it. There is also a device which increases the idle speed when the A/C is switched on. If this is not working or the idle is set too low then rough idle may occur.
Go to this website: http://www.kiatechinfo.com/index.asp It's free. It has all the engine stuff there. You just need to give them an email address and make up a password.
Sit in the passenger seat and kick your right foot forward and up under the dash. Your toes are touching it. Its mounted with at least 4 Phillips head screws that are very inconveniently located. My '99 makes a noticeably loud rumble on the 2 highest settings. I tried tightening the screws...no luck. so I placed a wood wedge under it. good luck getting it out.
YOUR IN LUCK! I JUST FIGURED OUT HOW TO RESET THE CLOCK IN MY MOTHER'S 99 KIA TODAY. WE'VE BEEN ADDING 6 HOURS AND SUBTRACTING 20 MINUTES FOR MONTHS. 1. PRESS THE "F" BUTTON , LIGHT WILL GO OFF. 2. HOLD CLOCK BUTTON IN UNTIL, HOUR DIGIT BEGINS TO FLASH. 3.ADJUST HOUR DIGIT BY TURNING RADIO TUNING KNOB. THEN PUSH IT IN, TO SET IT. CONTINUE SAME FOR MINUTES. GOOD LUCK
Take the transmission out of overdrive. I believe there is a button right on the gear shift to do this with.
The first thing you should keep in mind is that it's illegal to operate a vehicle with a inoperative speedometer on any public streets so be careful because if stopped for speeding the offier will give you a choice between calling your own tow or letting him impound it, to answer your question.. since I had a recent related experience I need to know is the speedometer going all the way to the max with little acceleration? If so, you probably just need a new signal cable that connects from the speedometer to the MPH output terminal on your transmission. If the needle constantly flaps back in forth like a bird's wing, it's much more serious. Unfortunately if this ever happens than the only thing that will fix it is a whole new unit that goes in your dash. If it's only a 97 any auto part store can order a replacement or sites like e-bay sell a new, identical, or suitable replacement unit. Keep in mind however that if for example you installed a 2001 guage unit you'd probably have a working speedometer again but due to the differences in electronic layout with later models other guages all of the sudden may not function, or your night LED display may run all of the time not just when you turn on your headlights. It's tricky but if you handle it properly it's fixable. Be sure and check the indicator fuses and if there was ever an alarm installation that went bad because those things can cause issues like you described.
Good Luck, Matt
try changing your vehicle speed sensor in the transmission.
You need to remove the timing belt covers (they won't completely come off until you get the motor mounts out of the way), passenger side motor mounts, power steering pump (you can just unbolt it and swing it out of the way), all the accessory belts, the passenger side shroud that goes under the car, and the passenger front tire. You'll need the car in the air, so get it up on jack stands and get ready to get wet (if there's any water left in the car).
Once all of that is out of the way, loosen the tensioner on the timing belt pulley system (two small rollers under the timing cams...the one on the left is the tensioner) and with a 5mm Allen wrench, rotate the spring tensioner pulley to take the timing belt off. You will also need to remove the two roller pulleys (the tensioner and the matching one beside it) before you can remove the water pump. Once all of that is out of the way, remove the 5-6 12mm bolts and the one 10mm bolt from the water pump and pull it off.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Replace the gasket...it's just a good idea and it's not expensive. Our water pump failed because of the pulley bearing. The alternator belt was tensioned too tight which caused the bearing to fail, so watch your belt tension...
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