50 Kv = 50,000 volts
For voltage drop checking on the wire from the battery positive post to the starter main terminal, you place the voltmeter reading on the 1 to 3 volt range, (or what lower range you have). You then place one voltmeter lead on the positive battery post, the other lead you place on the starter positive terminal and have someone crank the engine. While the engine is cranking, you observe the voltage drop. It should be less than a volt. This seems strange because you would think the cable would not drop voltage but it sure can. If the battery post is dirty or bad connection, you could see a voltage drop all the way to the maximum 12 volts battery voltage depending upon the connection. Also you can check the return path the same way--- Negative case of the starter to the negative post on the battery for voltage drop. If it is more than a volt or two, you have a bad ground return circuit.
Several possibilities are that:
1 the switch is bad on the high position.
2. There is a problem with the high speed wire from the switch to the motor.
3. The wiring inside of the wiper motor for the high speed is bad.
The way 2 speed wiper motors work is there are separate windings inside the motor for low and high speeds. Usually 2 wires come out of the motor for low and high and the common ground through the wiper motor body to the chassis of the vehicle. You apply 12v to one wire and get low and 12v to the other one for high speed.
...would be dim.
Programing and controlling robots for industy. And etc.
You just need an accurate voltage meter.
Connect the meter to the poles of the battery. Start the engine and avoid spinning her up, even not for a short moment. The reading of the meter now can be anything; a reading lower than 12.6 volt indicates a weak battery.
Slowly increase the engine speed. The meter reading should increase too, but will get "catched" at an engine speed somewhere at 1000 rpm. (8001200) From then on the reading will stay "locked". It should be 13.8V; 0.5V higher or lower is the limit of what is acceptable. A voltage too high is NOT good: it will ruin your battery and wear out bulbs and other equipment!
A voltage regulator is good when the reading hardly reacts to change of engine speed or to adding power consumers like electric window heaters or main headlights.
Ans 2: sometims the voltage regulator is faulty when the remainder of the alternator is OK so it's worth considering replacing the regulator first because it is less expensive and sometimes it can be removed and replaced without taking the alternator off the car.
It actually is based upon temperature-----. Batteries are insulated in a plastic or rubber case, so electricity leaking to the cement is not in the question. Even more so, batteries normally sit in a metal tray in a car. If battery leakage were to occur, it surely would sitting on metal.
The actual cause is temperature difference between the top of the battery and the bottom. The specific gravity of the electrolyte changes with temperature. Therefore the specific gravity of the electrolyte is less at the top of the cell and more at the bottom. As measuring the specific gravity tells the state of charge of the cell, the cell has more of a charge at the top of the cell than the bottom. This causes an internal current drain inside the plastic battery case.
All batteries will discharge no matter where they are sitting when not being used. This is called "Shelf Life". A battery will not be damaged by sitting on a concrete floor versus sitting on wood. You will just have to charge it up to use it. It should be noted that a lead acid battery will eventually sulfate the longer it is discharged. Sulfation is not fully reversible.
People who believe that a battery is ruined by sitting on a concrete floor don't realize that probably the battery was acting up to begin with and was removed from a vehicle because it was going bad. After sitting on a concrete floor for a period of time, they try to charge the battery and find it bad. Therefore the conclusion was that the concrete floor ruined the battery instead of the battery getting plain worn out from usage in a vehicle.
It is all due to temperature and nothing else.
4000 ma is equivalent to 4 amps 1 amp is 1/1000 ma/hour means amp or ma per hour.
A Watt is a measure of power not voltage.
Voltage X Amps = Watts (in a DC circuit)
If you have a 55 watt light bulb for a car and you are looking for the amperage:
55W/13.8v = 3.99Amps (a typical alternator charging voltage is 13.8v)
Check owner's manual. If you don't have one copy and paste link below; www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals
It probably means that there is a problem with the electrical connection between the brake ligts and the brake pad and so it does not light when one brakes. Another possibility is that there could be a real serious defect in the braking system e.g. the brake fluid tubes.AnswerIt means a lot of things, but the most common and simplest is that one of the brake light bulbs burned out. Honda puts two in each brake light so you don't get rear-ended on the freeway or pulled over by the cops before you can get to the auto parts store, but check your brake lights by pulling each bulb, inspecting it and cleaning the socket.
It could also mean the brake fluid is low. The most common reason for this is that the brake fluid in the reservoir goes down as your brake pads wear our. Warn pads often result in low fluid and a brake warning light. Check your fluid level. If its low don't fill it. First, check your brake pads front and rear to see if they are worn out. If you fill the reservoir and then replace the pads, you will spill fluid out of the reservoir when you push the pistons back in the calipers.
The other most common brake light indication is if the emergency (parking) brake is engaged. Check to make sure it is released.
I have to disagree with the second answer. Normal brake wear will NOT cause a lower fluid level. The brake indicator on usually always means low fluid in the brake system. Blown light bulbs in the brake circuit will NOT cause a brake light to come on. It is only something directly related to the brake system. Brake Fluid is the monitored component in the brake system. It also will give an ABS light with LOW FLUID,,,,possibly indicating a leak.
problem with fuel sending unit or dash guage.
A blown fuse, a faulty ( or dirty ) reverse light switch, faulty wiring, a blown bulb or a poor ground could cause reverse lights not to work. If one light doesn't work it's likely to be a blown bulb, faulty wiring or a poor ground. If both don't work it's probably a blown fuse, a faulty reverse light switch or faulty wiring.
a fan that sits in FRONT of radiator or condenser that pushes air through it. a puller fan would sit behind it and pull air through.
Easiest way is to get a "short finder kit"
This consists of a automatic reset circuit breaker to install in place of the fuse, and a small magnetic amp gauge that you hold in your hand. You can get these at a automotive store or a tool guy such as snap-on or a Mac dealer. You install the circuit breaker and it will click on and off about 1-4 times a second while short occurs. You hold the amp gauge near the circuit wire that is shorted and watch the needle fluctuate back and forth. when you pass the area of the short, the needle will stop moving. You have located the short where the needle stops moving. You can use the gauge near pillar posts and body metal also and it will sense the wire even through car metal. The objective is to find where the wire is shorted in the car body or location. Most shorts are found where the wires are EXPOSED and not inside pillar posts or body parts where you can't access the wire harness.
Interior light fuses are mostly rated for 10-15 amps.
If it is like a Pontiac transport minivav , it is way up high ,under the dash, towards the center (left of the steering column) (A stupid place for it)AnswerI have a transport minivan so I was happy to see the answer as to where the flasher is located. My question is, how do I get to it? AnswerI HAVE A 93 APV AND THE FLASTER IS BY THE PASSENGER SIDE UNDER THE GLOVE COMPARTMENTREMOVE THE SCREW HOLDING THE COVER AND YOU WILL SEE THE FLASHER AnswerI have a 1993 Chevy lumina euro and the turn signals quit on me.are there two signals flasher. I found one on the passenger side,it still didn;t fix the promblem, e verything else works on the car but the turn signals.help AnswerYes there are indeed two flashers. The one on the passenger side is for the hazard lights on the 1993 Lumina Euro. The other flasher is located on the drivers side underneath the dash. Once you get the panel off on the underside of the driver's side it will be on the right hand side (toward the center but before the shifter), it's cradled in a holster that was a pain for me to get out of. Good luck. Shouldn't take too long to do.
Illegal without a permit. Check laws on bells and whistles.
There are many reasons that the AIRBAG light come come on. The computer will need to be scanned to get the troubles codes. Trouble codes assist in diagnosis of what circuit has a problem. I would suggest getting that done as soon as possible, because an AIBAG light on may mean that the airbags will not deploy in a collision. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Kilovoltamperes, KVA's, are a measure of electrical power, in kilojoules per second (real), while kilovolts, KV's, are a measure of electrical potential difference, in kilojoules per coulomb. The two units are not directly convertible without also knowing the resistance value or the reactance value and the power factor.
Please restate the question.
In order to find your codes, you don't need to plug into the obd2 port. On the bottom right side of the diagnostic port, there should be two pins rather close together. My recommendation is to go to Auto Zone. Some of their stores actually have a key for checking GM obd1 systems. It looks like a key, and has two prongs on it that plug right in to where you need to check your codes. If your local store does not have one, then my advice is to look on the port and find the two bottom prongs that are closest together and jump them.
I have the exact same pinout on my 1995 Buick LeSabre. I have been researching this issue for some time now. The VECI label abve the radiator in my car states "OBD 1 Certified." However, I believe this is only stated because the pinouts of the connector are wrong. I have the VIN L engine, and all technical docs for that engine point to it being controlled by a PCM. PCMs do not report codes by flashing the SES light, only GM ECMs do. GM cars with an ECM and a 16-pin J1850 non-OBD-II connector on them, have a pin-out of 4,5,6,9,12,16. You short pins 5 and 6 to receive diagnostic trouble codes via the Service Engine Soon light. As you can see, those pins do not light up with our common connectors. Our connectors use pins 4,5,8,9,14,16. What I can tell you about this connector is as follows: 4=Chassis Ground, 5=Signal Ground, 8=Keyless RF Trigger (short to 5 to enter program mode), 16=Battery+. (Note 4,5=Ground 16=Battery+ are standard pins for the OBD-II standard. Yet another thing that points to an OBD-II serial uplink.) 1995 was a transition year for GM, in many different aspects including OBD-II. I believe what happened, what the pins were installed in one order believing that they conformed to standard, and then the standard changed before finalization. For more information on this, check out my regular posts to Automotive Forums.com in the Buick LeSabre forum. This is my latest: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=307153
Tachometers are instruments which are used to determing the speed at which something is turning [usually measured/indicated in Revolutions per minute]. There are many different tachs that accomplish this in several different ways. The tach that uses a "generator" is basically a voltmeter for the "read out," and a generator that creates a small electrical output which when supplied to [and properly calibrated to] the read out voltmeter guage, gives an indication of the Rpm of the shaft to which the generator is attached.
There are a few problems with infrared telescope technology such as, infrared wavelengths are absorbed by water vapor in earth's atmosphere and infrared telescopes must be kept cool. Astronomers have to place infrared telescopes on high mountains above the clouds so that the wavelengths aren't absorbed by the water vapor. Since infrared energy is heat energy, it's hard to keep the telescopes cool. If an infrared telescope is not kept cool it may detect itself and won't pick up on weak infrared sources out in space.
Luck is to open as unprotected is to panic
Sounds like the alternater is a reasonable suspect to me. Second guess would be the Ghost of Chrysler Past!AnswerFirst I would start a fresh, new post. Second, what motor and model do yuou have. I would check the ground or negative cable for a loose connection first. AnswerI was recently having similar problems. lights diming & brightning wipers slow alternator kept blowing up. finally transplanted the "brain"... got a new ECM did it my self fairly simple but not cheap. i believe you can get it tested. but i would sugest you do the work your self. i saved 1300.00 that way found the part @ the wreckers 4 cheap! but make sure there is a warenty of sorts. just in case. Answersounds like the alternator to me AnswerI HAD THAT TO HAPPEN TO ME ONE TIME ON A PONTIAC IT TURNED OUT THE BATTERY WAS SHORTED INSIDE OF IT SO YOU MAY WANT TO HAVE THE BATTERY CHECKED AnswerGrounds, grounds, grounds. Check to be sure all grounds are clean and serviceable. AnswerIt could be about a thousand things. Bring your alternator in somewhere and get it checked. If it is bad change it. If it's good bring the battery in and have it load tested. If it is good, then start looking at grounds. If all your grounds are good and clean then start looking at reseting your ECM. Go into the dealership and start asking questions. Most mechanics are good guys they will try to help you out. It doesn't hurt to bring in a coffee for the guy before you ask. Good luck.
to move a battery voltage wildly take a lot of current which the car Even if running cannot supply. Basically the battery is not very well connected to the source or a depleted battery
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