I believe that is a dealer only problem.
64 n/m + 90 degrees + 90 degrees
try disconecting the battery or pulling the ECM fuse
It shouldn't go on and still start as I understand it. The fuel pump inertia switch it designed to shut the fuel pump off in case of a fuel leak or an accident. Inside the switch is a ball that is held magnetly rolls forward and engages a swith to stop fuel flow. It can be reset by by a button the top of the switch. It is located in the left rear of the trunk compartment.
There is no exact "dash kit" being made for the fj60 right now. The only options are either to retrofit a kit from a different vehicle, or custom fabricating your own out of plastic/wood/metal/fiberglass etc.
You can buy extremely cheap ones from China on www alibaba dot com (is where are all made anyway!)
how much do mattracks cost for a four wheeler? any size.
You probably won't enjoy this answer but truth be known... As a very non-scientific rule of thumb, you can pretty much count on a set of these to cost roughly about as much as the vehicle you intend to put them on. I recently saw a USED set of 200 series mattracks with an asking price of $50,000. I also saw a set of USED 175 series mattracks on e-bay with an asking price of $30,000. I've seen used ones on eBay for smaller vehicles with asking prices anywhere from $8000 to $20000+ and for ATV's for a couple thousand + or so. Okay, like me, hearing this probably just gave you a sinking feeling. Here's the deal...though Mattracks are not the only track conversions out there, they are the BEST BY FAR. Their closest competition (American Track Truck) is less expensive (if you call wish to call a price tag of thousands of dollars "less") but they currently don't make any for full size vehicles and they most definitely aren't in the same class as the products mattracks puts out...you get what you pay for. Mattracks are intended for those who are seeking a more economical and more flexible option to buying a purpose-built and very expensive dedicated tracked vehicle. They are pretty much limited to those with a bonified need and the budget that goes along with that need. For the ATV's and small vehicles you "might" find them within the average person's budgetary reach. Larger vehicles get...um...pricey.
Okay, so let's answer your question directly: Prices For A New Set Of Mattracks (November 2009) which I obtained from a Mattracks Dealer (There is some variability within the different models in each class though nothing too big relatively speaking, so these prices should be pretty representative of all the models within a particular series):
200-M1-A1 $70000 (68000 + $2000 for Steering Assist unit). The 200 series is designed for loaded medium duty trucks such as an F-450 or F-550
175-M1-A1 $40000 The 175 series is for the light end of medium duty or heavy end of light duty trucks. Think F-350 or F-450, perhaps even an F-250 if your planning on really loading it down.
150-M1-A2-SA $36500 Think the medium end of light duty trucks, such as an F-250 or an F-350 (or even the heavy end of the 1/2 ton market if you're planning on loading the truck down).
105-M1-A1 $26500 Think F-150, Expedition, Explorer, even down to the truly light end such as a Jeep.
88 Series (sorry didn't manage to get an actual price...my fault) but they are pretty much designed for the really light end such as jeeps or some of the light/small 4WD SUV's. I was told they really aren't that much less expensive than the 105 series.
LiteFoot XT $5100 These are for ATV's. It was strongly suggested that you get an ATV with some sort of power assisted steering.
The Least Expensive Mattrack (barring the Trail-R-Mates for non-driven trailers, and no, I didn't check on the prices of the Track-Tor-Mates) is the LiteFoot XL which has NO internal suspension (think truly rough ride) which lists at $3400 new.
Yeah, I would LOVE to have a set of 150 or 175 series Mattracks for my truck, but until I win the lottery like you I will continue to wish... Perhaps someday...
Actually, American Track Truck produces the Dominator series tracks which sell for less than 1/3 the cost of Mattracks 105-M1-A1--making them a much more affordable alternative. They are intended for mid-size passenger vehicles such as Chevy Blazers, Jeep Cherokees, Ford Explorers, and some half ton trucks. The Dominator tracks are less than Â½ the weight of the Mattracks, so they allow better floatation and require less power. They are more appropriate for the average person who wants to take their vehicle places where tires won't go-deep snow, ice, swamps, wetlands, mud, etc. They are not intended to be used on real heavy vehicles, or for purposes like rock crawling or desert warfare. If you have these kind of needs, save up and buy the Mattracks.
Unfortunately, changing the rotors involves repacking the wheel bearings and then getting the torque settings right when you reassemble the hub. I've been looking into this for a long time. Apparently, one needs a bearing press to get the bearing seals back in properly which can be an expensive proposition. Additionally, this is a critical operation. You have to be able to loosen and replace several bolts without stripping them and making a mistake in repacking the bearings or reassembling the 4wd hub can be near catastrophic to your vehicle (if not you). To get the correct torque settings I am looking into Chilton's Nissan 4wd SUV manual. I am also looking into finding a garage with a press that will do the bearings but then give it back for me to assemble. I would greatly appreciate if anyone else has done this and can share a suggestion or two. The bearing cone and seal can be set in with an inexpensive bearing race tool that you can buy at any pats store and a hammer.
Depends on what kind of car you have. Sounds like maybe the fuel is low. Or, if there is ample fuel in it, you may have a clogged line or pump. Or maybe your pump is going out. Feul is a relatively inexpenxsive problem for a shop to do it.
Take the VIN (vehicle indentification number)from the chassis of the vehicle to a Toyota Dealer. They should be able to tell you the month and year of Manufacture.
Try the VIN number on the dash board on the left side its a little metal strip with 14 or 17 stamped numbers or letters. the 8th digit denotes the engine code the 10th digit is the year code....P = 1993 R = 1994 S = 1995 T - 1996 V = 1997 etc, you can go up or down to find your year accordingly.
open the drivers door and look for a white label. somewhere on it you'll see "mfd-10/03" or whatever month and year your car was built.
that's going to be difficult to re pare. you might as well change the bearing.
I purchased the Haynes DIY repair manual for the chev tracker/suzuki vitara and there are quite a few wiring diagrams in it. Hopefully the one you need will be in there. I haven't really looked to see how comprehensive they are, but I believe they are complete. You can probably get this manual at a parts store or even at Wal-Mart or a hardware store. Being Canadian, I purchased mine at Canadian Tire basicall because it was the closest. Hope this helps!
what motor do you have? 4a-LC ...43 4a-fe ...44 4a-ge ... step one ...22 step two ...Rotate 90-dgrees step three ..Rotate 90 dgrees
You own land? Wrong. the government owns it and you cant farm on it.
The 1HZ toyota 4.2L diesel and its variants have a kevlar reinforced timing belt. All toyota's with the 1HZ have a timing belt light, which at every 100,000km is illuminated via a trigger in the speedometer. This light is reset by removing the rubber grommet in the speedo face and gently depressing the button underneath. Failure to replace the timing belt, and its subsequent failure "theoretically" should cause little to no damage as there is a considerable valve clearance making damager near impossible, however not recommended to let this occur.
The timing belt is behind the black cover on the front of the engine, under the power steering fluid reservoir. The cover is removed by undoing the 1 bolt that retains both the cover and power steering fluid reservoir and removing several metal clips. The belt is then acheived by slightly backing off the two bolts on the timing belt idler / tensioner and with appropriate tool removing tension and sliding belt off. Holding tensioner in same position, slide new blet over sprockets. Confirm correct fittmnent by aligning timing mark (TDC) on lower sprocket (driven by injector pump) and timing mark and camshaft sprocket (TDC). Replace cover, job donel.
You can get a Haynes manual from an auto parts store. It will have wiring diagrams, though not very good, it may be enough to help you out. What are you trying to wire, maybe I can help?
I would check you local libriary for a repair manual.Actually autozone.com has all you need in the my zone section, just register and have access to any info you want. manuals, diagrams etc.
WIRING INFORMATION - CHEVROLET / SUBURBAN / 1985 12volts red ignition harness Starter yellow or purple ignition harness Second Starter Ignition pink ignition harness Second Ignition Third Ignition Accessory orange ignition harness Second Accessory Keysense Power Lock lt. blue driver door harness Power Unlock black/white driver door harness Lock Motor Unlock Motor Parking Lights+ brown switch or fuse panel Parking Lights- Hazards Turn Signal(L) Turn Signal(R) Reverse Light Door Trigger white - under dash area Dome Supervision Trunk/Hatch Pin tied in with doors Hood Pin Trunk/Hatch Release Power Sliding Door Factory Alarm Arm Factory Alarm Disarm Disarm No Unlock Tachometer purple/white AC dist. or ECM Notes: Diesel wait to start wire is orange (+) located at the instrument cluster. 4-wire harness exiting back of distributor heading towards pass. side or pull glove box and ECM is silver box with two plugs. Wait to start Brake Wire white + at brake pedal switch Parking Brake Horn Trigger black - at column Memory Seat 1 Memory Seat 2 Memory Seat 3 Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A Notes: This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
ANSWER: with respect to Toyota Landcruisers, It is a model designator. For example FJ40, FJ45, etc. The The "F" indicates the engine family: F,2F,3FE. The "J" indicates that it was made in Japan. Newer model Landcruisers continue to use that model. For example 3VZJ, etc. Toyota Tacomas also use similar model and production location indicators.
The timing light reset if i remember is behind the speedo. Remove the speedo head and clocks and look on the back. There should be a little jumper in some terminals and next to it there should be some empty terminals. Just remove jumper from one and put into other, this should reset timing belt light.
And Jeep is the military slang for "General Purpose" vehicle.
Also already answered in: What_does_the_FJ_model_stand_for_regarding_Toyota's
Below edits taken from posts on FJCruiserForums.com See:
"J" is indeed for Jeep.
The original designation was the BJ.
"In 1950, the Cold War turned hot. The People's republic of North Korea - supported by it's communist allies from China and the Soviet Union - invaded the Republic of South Korea. The ensuing battle would be supported by the presence of some 400,000 American Military personnel.
To move it's armed forces around the rugged Korean Peninsula, the U.S. Army needed vehicles. The Willys jeep may have ruled the day through WWII, but the army didn't think war surplus general purpose vehicles would cut it in this new terrain. Mountains cover more than 70 percent of the Korean Peninsula, which has a cold and wet climate.
The Army sought updated vehicles, and it wanted them produced as close as possible to the peninsula. So it went to Toyota with blueprints to the venerable and combat-proven Willys Jeep and worked with the Japanese company on changes needed to meet the challenges in Korea. These changes included the need for a slightly longer wheelbase, a slightly more compliant suspension, and a more powerful engine than the four cylinder motor in the WWII jeep.
The engine chosen was the 85 HP Toyota Type B, an inline, 3.4 liter six cylinder fed by a single barrel carburetor.
Officially, the vehicle was designated the Toyota Jeep, though it was better known as the BJ because it combined the B engine and a jeeplike body and chassis
At first, the BJ was considered inferior to the "real" jeep, but in July of 1951, Toyota Test driver Ichiro Taira drove a BJ prototype to the sixth of the 10 hikers checkpoints on Japan's 12,388 foot Mount Fuji. That was higher than anyone thought likely-or even possible -in a four wheel motor vehicle. Then inspired by a historic horseback riding feat accomplised centuries earlier, Taira drove to Okazaki City and up steep temple stairs.
Taira's drive drew attention to the BJ."
"When Willys objected to Toyota using the "Jeep" name outside Japan, Toyota opted for "LandCruiser"-a twist on the name of the British-built Land Rover that had become the post war standard among civilian, if not quite civilized, four wheel drive vehicles."
"In 1955, the original LandCruiser, the BJ, was in it's final model year and a new version, the FJ, was making its debut. This new Landcruiser had a revised body with a face inspired by a traditional Japanese warrior's mask."
Toyota FJ Cruiser
Ultimately, in Toyota land, the J is meaningless. The letter(s) preceding the J indicate which motor is installed. Examples
BJ-40 - "B" - 4 cyl diesel
FJ-40 - "F" - 6 cyl gas (later 2F)
FJ-60 - "2F" - 6cyl Gas
HJ-60 - "H" - 6 cyl diesel
FJ-62 - "3FE" - 6 Cyl FI
FJ-80 - "3FE"
FZJ-80 - FZJ motor
Toyota's FJ Cruiser model is technically the GSJ15
Above edits taken from posts on FJCruiserForums.com See:
That sure is a loaded question. You will be hard pressed to find a better stock vehicle than most landcruisers. If you are looking at owning a legend then at 185000 you are just getting started. I have owned more than 7 myself. I still own 3 and plan on buying yet another one. While there are some drawbacks like poor mileage you are not buying just another vehicle. I would go for it as long as it shows no signs of rust!
Villager engines are an interference engine.Simply put it means that if the belt breaks when the engine is running or if one changes the belt and installs it improperly then attempts to start it the pistons will come in contact with the valves.The next time a start is attempted the engine will not turn over. Another possibility may be that you are getting coolant into the cylinders from improper installation of the head gasket.Liquid in a cylinder can cause a condition called hydrostatic lock.As the piston cannot compress the liquid the motor will cease to turn over.
That is not EXACTLY accurate...when it was manufactured as a Nissan quest, that was true, it was an interference engine. When Ford motors contracted for it and it became a Mercury product, they demanded that it be a non-interference engine. I have lost the timing belt tensioner while driving and the head was fine. I would look for problems with the head installation itself as opposed to the timing belt having damaged the valves. Also, make sure that the belt was installed correctly, that the plugs are firing correctly, etc...
Villager engines are NOT interference engines, this is a myth. If you have installed a timing belt and the engine won't turn, either your timing is far off, or you had a serious mechanical fault before.
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