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Depends on the manufacture. The correct size is written on the tire sidewall of the tires that came on the camper.

Ans 2 -The correct size is almost always stamped into the inside of the rim .

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Where is oil sending unit 1999 2.5 xlt ford ranger

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Remove the oil pan and clean thoroughly then bring the pan to a muffler shop or body shop and have them weld the crack...the threaded hole for drain plug may need to be chased with a tap after welding. Then again you could track down a used pan pretty cheap.

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Um, you probably shouldn't have had glass around the open spark plug hole in the first place. this could make it hard for your spark plug to fit into place, or even send the spark to the cylinder. You will have to take apart the head and remove the glass depending on how big the shard, or piece is.

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I believe that is a limited slip differential with 3.55 gears

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( H6 ) - is a 3.73 limited slip differential on a Ford truck / SUV

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yes if it is an older dodge. pattern is 5x114.3 15"

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235/70/r16

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Very

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Yes , the 2.0 liter is an interfernce engine ( according to the Gates website ,

they make timing belts etc . )

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DOT ( 3 ) brake fluid

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Ford usually discontinues offering pre-bent brake lines for vehicles more than five years old. After that, you have to do what is done for almost all other vehicles: buy steel brake tubing and bend, cut, and flare it yourself.

If available, try to get the "unkinkable" brake tubing. This tubing has a plastic coating (usually green) and has an odd shape to the hole running it's length which makes it very easy to bend without kinking it. A kinked line is worthless.

To do the bending, cutting, and flaring, you will need special tools for the job. These tools are usually available from the local parts store for a total less than $50 US. These are a tubing cutter, a bender (if using regular kinky tubing) and a flaring tool (double flaring tool for fractional tubing or bubble flaring for metric as needed.)

If you bring a sample of the old line (including the flare nut) to the parts store with you they will be able to identify the correct size (usually 3/16 inch or 4.75 mm, but possibly 1/4 inch) of line and type of flaring tool that you need. Buy extra line. Line is cheap, and if you're using regular (gray steel) line, you'll probably screw it up the first time.

Do not forget to bleed your brakes at all four wheels after replacing line.

Oh, yeah, and if brake fluid dripping in your eyes and mouth annoys you, get a stick to hold the brake pedal at least slightly down so the brake lights stay on. Fluid will stop dripping. If concerned about draining the battery using the brake lights, disconnect the negative battery cable.

*** IMPROVED answer: Inline Tube in Michigan makes stainless steel pre-bent brake lines. www.inlinetube.com

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For residential service 110V, 115V, 117V, 120V, and 125V are all functionally the same. Electric companies have been slowly increasing the line voltage over the last 100 years to cope with increased loads. That is where these different voltages come from.

The tolerance is generally +/-10%. That's +/- 11.5 volts in this case. So, a 115VAC appliance will run between 103.5 and 126.5VAC.

The short answer is yes. 110V appliances can work with up to 130V without being burnt, additionally, 220V appliances can work with up to 240V without being burnt.

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No. Rear wheel drive or 4wd

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Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagram ) can be viewed online

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Your vehicle could simply need a clutch adjustment.

i have a 83 Toyota Camry and it slips out of gear and i have been told that it is the syncro that is gone and that is why it slips out of gear but for the cost of fixing this id rather go with the clutch adjustment

I have to say I have many years experience in standard transmission. I have had those problems with the transmission popping out of gear. In my case it was the first gear tooth was broken. This surely is more a sensable answer. The sycros, is what allows you go in and out of gear without clutching. The adjustment of clutch is only going to allow you shift gears.

how do you know he or she is talking about a standard transmission what kind of trans is it automatic is it standard?if its an auto its just very possible it needs some fliud,hense you would have a leak,INFO INFO INFO NEEDED.i would think that this answer asking for more info would be the more sensible answer

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OK, first off the individual is more than likely asking about a manual transmission because they mention "clutch adjustment" which occurs only with a manual transmission. An automatic transmission has clutch packs and bands with friction material on them that tighten or loosen around a drum inside the transmission..among other things. It is safe to assume it's a manual transmission as the vast majority of people would not know about clutch packs in an automatic. At least ones searching on wiki-whatever..

Second, the synchronizers in a manual transmission aren't for allowing you to shift without using the clutch, that is called rev-matching and when you do that you are actually doing what the synchronizers are designed to do in the first place. They have friction material around the inner side and when you move the gear shift you are moving forks connected to syncros in the transmission. The syncro uses the friction material to more or less slow down or speed up its rotation to match the gear and teeth you are about to match it to (to whatever the engine speed is). When you rev-match you match the engine rpm to that of the syncro. The use of the clutch takes the pressure off of the teeth that are mated or about to be mated allowing you to change gears. If you can match the rpms there won't be pressure on the teeth until you put the car under load by accelerating once in gear again.

As long as the car does not grind, the linkage is most likely fine and any adjustment will probably have no affect. Unless it's adjusted too short to the point you never actually get the car in gear completely.. if it hasn't been tampered with then your problem more than very likely lies with the synchronizers in your transmission. If the car has been put under much distress the teeth on the actual drive gears themselves may be worn to the point they "pop out". You may not know the complete damage until it's taken a part. My 2-cents.

ANSWER

Jumping out of gear in a manual transmission is useually a sign of a worn detent in the internal shift linkage under the shift cover. The purpose of a syncro is to allow for a clash free shift into gear. Syncros do not hold a gear selection in gear. Worn external shift linkage that does not allow enough travel to trip the detent will also cause this, like in the old collum shift 3 speeds. Worn linkage is more often than not the root of the problem. If this an Automatic trans the list of causes is HUGE. If it is automatic prepair yourself for a trip to the credit union and the transmission shop because it's most likely worn clutches and clutch drum seals. RE: Expensive work! Seldom is it something as simple as a pump or a converter.

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Before beginning any work, make sure to disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. I've replaced a starter in my Nissan, it was a 5 speed not a auto.If it is a manual you have to remove your cluch pedal link that's connected to the transmission .From there you have two bolts to remove for the starter from the transmission.I believe it is a 14mm socket one side you'll need a extension. Make sure to unplug all the wires to the starter.I believe the auto is the samething.If this helps or you need more info just write to my e-mail. I still have my 1992 Nissan.

Simple thing to do-And I am no automechanic by any means. Remove battery cables to avoid shocking yourself....buy ramps from craigslist....ramp and remove anything in the way....which if you buy the 6 inch extension for your ratchet (which you will need to buy to get past something on the top bolt) you almost don't even have to move anything.....except the oil filter which I think if you wanted you might be able to jiggle it out even around that...since it is only about 3 pounds (compared to 15-20 pounds in a truck starter)...but the two bolts that hold a starter in are simple to remove once you find them.....It takes an hour just to ramp and find the starter. The easy way to find it is to follow the negative battery cable which is black with a yellow stripe or two.....and the bottom one is easy to reach but hard to find while laying under the car..... I suggest removing the starter and taking it to the store for testing first...and if it tests bad....then you don't have to shell out 32 dollars for the core charge....and you know the actual problem is the starter. So the oil will drip on you and you will be working under a car which can be a little scary....but the bolts came out easy on mine....and when you put it back in make sure you tighten them or you will be back under there the next day tightening them like I was.

As a side note: this problem hit us in one morning....no warning...so I thought it might be a bad problem since usually starters go slowly...but ours just died...probably just the selonoid which could have probably been repaired...but for 90 dollars I would rather just replace the whole thing.

Additional info: The starter is tucked up under the intake manifold. It is held on by two 14mm bolts. One is accessed best from under the car. The answer above suggests removing the oil filter. That is messy. I recommend removing the "A" shaped intake manifold brace. It is held in by three 12mm bolts. With that out of the way, access to the bolt is much easier. The other bolt is easily reached from on top of the engine. It is the same bolt that the battery ground is attached to. You also have to remove the main power cable from the end of the solenoid and there is a clip on electrical connection on the starter bracket. I found that a swivel adapter and a long extension made getting at the lower bolt much easier. One hour to get it out and less than an hour to get it back in.

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www.fuel economy . gov (no spaces) goes back to 1985 they show a 1985 Ranger , 2 wheel drive , with a 2.3 L diesel and 5 speed manual transmission as getting 25 MPG city / 30 MPG highway / 27 MPG combined

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( 100 horsepower ) according to ( the ranger station . com ) no spaces

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There are three types of rear ends (that I know of)...

The single track or open end - where one wheel and one wheel only, turns. How lame is that.

The common slip or limited slip style diff that puts power to both wheels, but allows for that power to vary from side to side most commonly used in turning. It eliminates one of the tires from chirping or hopping in a turn.

Then there is what I call the True Positive Traction Diff. Not to be confused with the "posi-track" used by (GM) or "trac-lok" use by (Ford). This diff does not belong on the street. It is for race cars . It has no side to side slip. The gears are set, no clutches. And if the input turns "x" times both wheels turn "y" times.

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below right side of steering wheel small plastic panel opens to reveal fuse panel

how do you remove fuse panel and which fuse goes where?

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Yes it does.You can get to about 90 and no more.It will start bogging down.

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.044 inch ( according to fordparts.com and therangerstation.com )

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Yes, the alternator provides electrical energy to keep the battery charged. If the alternator isn't functioning, the battery will discharge and there will be insufficient electrical energy to operate the ignition and other electrical components. Understand that a battery is only an electrical STORAGE device. Electrical energy is produced by the alternator. The function of the battery is to provide electrical energy for NEXT time you want to start the engine. Once the engine is started, the alternator must take care of all electrical requirements of the vehicle as well as for providing enough additional electrical energy to replace electrical energy to the battery that was last used when the engine was started.