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First what you want to do is order a throw out bearing, clutch pack and pressure plate. There should be a little plastic piece about the size and shape of a highlighter that comes with it to line everything up.

Now first step dissconnect your battery. Jack the front of the car. Take off the large nut in the middle of each wheel that holds on your cv's. These shafts connect to your transmission. Now dissconect all the linkage from your transmission and everything that that's connected to your engine that will get snagged when you lift it out. The only thing that should be left attached in your engine mounts. Use a floor jack and put it under your transmission. Take off all the bolts holding your engine to your transmission leaving one bolt at the top still in. Slowly loosen last bolt and a gap should appear between engine and transmission. You should then hoist up your engine after removing engine mount bolts. this makes the angle less and much easier to remove transmission. Once it is removed it weighs about 100Ibs. Not to heavy so manhandle it out of the way. Now what you are left with is looking at the old clutch and pressure plate. Depending on your flywheel you may need to have it machined if the rivits from the clutch pack have worn into it. Always replace the bearing it's about 20$ or a risk having to tear the whole thing apart again. Now replace clutch and remember FW stands for fly wheel make sure this part of the clutch pack faces the fly wheel. All that's left is to put everything back together and break it in. Don't forget to adjust the clutch once everything is assembled.

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it means inflatable restrant probley your air bag it is either saying ur air bag is on and working or that iit is not working The air bag computer has stored a trouble code. You will need the factory service manual to retrieve the code and troubleshoot it.

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the proper torque specification for the geo storm 1.6 engine is 58 ft lbs ... Always torque in a spiral from the center outwards. Make sure you cleaned up the threads in the block ith a chaser (NOT a tap) before proceeding. And oil the threads on the new head bolts. You should be able to turn the bolts all the way snug with your fingers if the threads are cleaned up correctly. Then torque in 3 stages to the final torque in a spiral from the inner bolts.

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Open passanger door, look under dash to the far right, there you will locate the fan/blower motor, it is mounted facing up. Take a Phillips screw driver or a 8 mm socket and there should be apprx. 5 screws holding it on. There is one on the back side that is a pain to get to, a short screwdriver or flexible socket may be required. Carefully let the fan down and unplug the wires. Installation is reverse of this.

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Your synchronizers for 2nd are on their way out. You'd have to pull apart the tranny to fix it.

where your shifter is ....you will take all that plastic divider-shi2 apart....were your stereo is it will be all tha way down by your cars computer...what your looking for is the two shift linkagase your linkages have two bolts front and back one should be loose....mine was way back there pried back there....i bought my 92 geo storm cheap cause second and forth gear didnt work ...problably by a company saying its more work than it needs....$$$ once you find them bolt...loosen all 4 and ceep your shifter in posisition were third and fourth gear are but in neutral and get all four bolts close then go through all the gears ...each gear you should tighten that bolt a litle more and more....although i would recomend getting somone who knows how to tighten them bolts realy good...id know cause im an employee of auto stores i do this kinda stuff...the reason is second gear for you is not catching cause your shiftes are not tight....if it were your clutch youd have problems w./them all esp./reverse and if it were your transaxle./transmition youd have more than a it wont shift smothly.....so maybe get somone to give ;you a hand but don't have a transmition shop do it or theyll charge tha hell outa you just for a stupid bolt you wernt aware of.....,.....tell my how that worked for you....dj_pbc@yahoo.com

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the PVC vlave is located in a hole on the top of the valve cover next to the oil fill cap.

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mine had the two front 6.5 in" speaker and to 2 in" in the back

Mine had one pair of 6.5 in" full range drivers n the front doors.

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well I have to ask you a couple of questions first in order to answer yours. is this ok?...First of all what is it that you are tring to install? Is it the compressor,condenser,evaporator, expansion valve,receiver/drier, or is it the whole system? I will check this site once in a while to see if you've responded. To rebuild the A/C system with R-134a: - At a garage, have refrigerant recovered and have evaporator, condensor and all lines power completely flushed out - If compressor locked up, replace it - If expansion valve is not relatively new, replace it - Replace dryer - Use new GREEN (R-134a) o-rings lubricated with mineral (R-12) oil when assembling fittings - Have system evacuated to remove moisture and dust, charged and leak tested at a garage. Be sure they know there is no refrigerant oil in the system at this point and be prepared to tell them the amount of oil that must be added - Leaks will usually be through the compressor hoses, if that is the case try adding some stop leak through the low pressure side charge port before you invest in new hoses and more garage work - Chill out

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Crankcase is a generic term for the parts of the engine enclosing the crankshaft; usually the lower-half of the engine's block and the oilpan. It is more at describing an area of the engine rather than an actual part. As such, it does nothing on its own but keeps oil in and dirt out. When you look up at the bottom of the Storm engine, that's the crankcase.

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u have to get a performance chip it will diasble the top speed limiter

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It' Really quite easier that it looks,I've had to do it myself. 1. Remove the wheel. 2.Remove the center nut from the axle. 3. Remove the brake assembly and rotor.(do not remove the brake line) 4. Remove the ball joint from the A frame and the two bolts on the bottom of the ball joint and slide it out,might be kinda tough, because of the pressure of the strut which you should be able to compress. 5. Put a oil pan underneeth the transmission and line up the shaft with the tranny, and pull it out as straight as possible, because it just has a snap ring on the end. YOU WILL NEED ONE QUART GEAR OIL.

A ball joint fork makes it much easier to pop the axle out. To pop it back in, make sure the missing part of the snap ring is at the BOTTOM, and then just try to pop it in by hand by repeatedly lunging it at the differential until it goes in.DO NOT use gear oil use 5W 30

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The question you ask is tooinvolved for a proper answer. You need to go to a car parts store, and get arepair manual for your car.They cost about $16.00Or, go to a Public Library.

Support engine from top with hoist or underneath the oil pan using a jack and large flat block of wood. Remove power steering pump and reservoir and set it aside. Adjust alternator to slack and remove alternator belt. Remove passenger side motor mount from frame and from motor. Remove timing cover. Remove old belt (loosening tensioner if necessary) and clean timing gears thoroughly. Recommend replacing tensioner. Be careful when removing or installing the tensioner because it threads into a weak part of the oil pump cover. Set crank gear to the 12:00 mark on the oil pump cover, and cam gear mark to 9:00 (level with cylinder head) with dowel at 12:00. Install new belt and make sure the slack is taken up in the side towards the firewall. Using an Allen wrench apply tension to the belt and temporarily tighten the tensioner. Do not get the belt too tight but no slack either. Turn the motor over several times forward and back to check for interference and for slack in the belt. If you feel interference aside from the normal valve spring force you have either put the belt on wrong or have bent valve(s). If there is slack in the belt, loosen the tensioner and take up the slack again. When you are ready put blue threadlocker on the tensioner bolt and tighten it to just under spec. Be careful not to apply diagonal force on your torque wrench or you will break the oil pump.

At this point you can remove the spark plugs, coil primary wire, and ECM relay, and do a compression check to ensure that you do not have bent valves. If the result of the compression check is good put it all back together. Tighten bolts to the specification listed in the manual. Use red loctite on the crankshaft bolt, they have been known to come out randomly without it. Be prepared for the motor mount through bolt to fail. GM doesnt have it anymore and is listed as a 10.9. I replaced mine with a grade 8.8 and it worked fine. Replace the power steering pump, reservoir, and all belts, lower the motor, and start er up. If there is excessive noise from the timing belt area you have tensioned the belt too much which will shorten its life, or else the tensioner bearing is bad and must be replaced. Otherwise you are done, check the timing and enjoy.

By the way replacing your camshaft and crankshaft seal(s) is economical to do at this point. Don't gouge the shafts when doing it, just poke something into the seal diagonally to get ahold of it and pull it out. MAke sure the seal spring came out with it. To get to the seals the cam and crank gears have to be removed. The cam gear just has a few bolts on the face. The crank gear should slide right off the crankshaft. If it doesn't come off peacefully, don't bother with it unless you are ready to buy a new gear. The reason is that the lip around the back of the gear is easily damaged and without it the timing belt will get shredded or ride off the gear. To get mine off I had to wedge it off with two screwdrivers in the back, and use a propane torch and kroil to heat the gear up and work it off the shaft. Use a good anti-seize or oil when you reinstall the gear onto the shaft.

Also economical to do is replace the water pump. It bolts right into the block. With the water pump you might as well replace your thermostat and heater/radiator hoses too. Don't forget the throttle body heater hoses and the o-ring at the thermostat inlet pipe.

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it's probably either the ignition relay or the fuel pump relay.

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1 3 2 counter clockwise

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U/S=up shift...if you have a manual transmission, you'll find that you won't see it come on once you get to 5th gear. Below 5th, it's tell you when you reach recommended shift points.

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You need to go to a car parts store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.

The repair manuals aren't too helpfull with this either. I've never done the job on a '91, but I did it on my '90, and I would assume they are about the same. With my '90, I was able to compress the CV joint boot up against the drive shaft, and wiggle the alternator around, and get it past the CV joint, and out the bottom. I actually used a small ball peen hammer to gently tap the alternator casing through the opening, it was that tight. I did the same to get the new alternator in. I would imagine that the job would be a LOT easier if you take the passengers side suspension apart, and move the drive shaft out of the way. If you move it just an inch or so forward, the alternator will come out a lot easier.

I had to remove my front passenger wheel for there to be room enough to get my old alternator out and then reversed the proceedure for re-assembly. Hope that helps.

Also, you should note that the bracket which is attached to the alternator; it has to come out "with the alternator" since the long bolt on the bottom of the alternator which connects the bracket to the alternator cannot be removed while it's in the engine bay. Just re-tighten that bottom long bolt (not too much) and remove the two lower bolts holding the bracket to the frame. Then once you got the alternator out, remove the long bolt holding the bracket and attach the bracket to the new alternator. Now you can install the new alternator. :)

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Follow the pos battery cable. It is at the end.

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On the SOHC (non-gsi), it's on the middle part of the crank pulley, the ridge that is in between the steering and alternator belts. You will not be able to see it. It is a tiny nick that you can just barely feel with your finger nail. I have no idea why they did not make it more visible at the factory. Once you find it, put some white out on your finger and reach down there and dab it. Don't do what I did and spill a whole bottle down the side of the motor.

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ok first of all this is a very hard part to change. i would not recamend you try this unless you realy know what you are doing. first u need to get the car in the air' then remove the tires and the half shafes "drive lines" then drop the tranny by removing the blots around the bell housing. and any other linkeges. finealy remove the cluch off the fly weel in the bell housing and replace it. then all u need to do is adjust it and put it all back toget her. like i said it is not esay. i just got done doing my 92 geo storm it took about 1 day. the cluch u can get at any parts store for under $200 dollars. it would cost $800 to have it done by a mechanic so it is better to do it your self if u fell u can.

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You may want to check your shifter cables to see if they are operating correctly. Turn on the igniton(but DO NOT start) and have someone shift the car, You'll need to have the hood open and watch the shift lever on top of the trans-axle. If it moves while your helper shifts then you might need to get your transaxle rebuilt if it barely moves or doesn't move at all then you need to replace the cables.

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Try your local autozone. They should be able to give you a print out. If that fails, try looking in a Haynes repair manual.

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Your 92' Geo probably uses R12 freon, but since they don't sell that to just anybody in stores they will probably want to sell you R134 freon. I recommend that you just take it to somebody who has an air conditioning license that way he can get you the R12 that it needs. I wouldn't put R134 in your air conditioning system because it might harm it. Plus R12 is very expensive now a days since they don't make R12 systems for cars anymore cause it pollutes the atmosphere, but to tell you the truth it cools alot better than R134. R134 is sort of like the replacement of R12. A can of R12 can cost up to $30, and most cars need around 2 or 2 1/2 cans.

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Blinker box is located directly above the fuse box under the dash on the driver's side. It is a square module accessible once the kick panel is removed. Very easy.

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take the screws out on the top you have to use a short Philips screw driver and theres 2 screws on the bottom then it pulls out