With a small, flat screwdriver pry the lens from the light assembly. Mine is the capsule style (pointed metal caps on each end) which pulls out while pushing toward one end of the bulb to free it from the metal contact springs.
I picked up my Metro used and it already had 100,000+ miles on it. I understand that if they are well cared for 300,000+ can be the life span. In response to your question, I drive 30 miles one way to commute to work and also do some in town driving. I have averaged between 40 and 45 MPG. Gave the car a tune up when I first got it and have had to replace the rear brake pads. My "check engine" light has been on for months and I understand the sensor is bad. Does not affect the performance so I'll probably never replace it. However, I now have a bad dimmer switch...look out! This little puppy costs $400 at the parts store. Fortunately, I've located a one at the local junk yard for $25. I love this little car!I have a 1991 Geo Metro , I have installed a cat back exhaust system,a K&N aircleaner,ram air,a performance camshaft,underdrive aluminum pulleys,MSD ignition coil,8 degree advance cam sprocket,and a resistor for my AIT,I get an honest 53 mpg at over 70 miles per hour........I am installing headers next month,the car has 168,000 miles on it an has been overheated 12 times by my son,and I have ran out of oil completely a few times, this is an amazing little engine......I have a more powerful engine almost ready to go in as soon as this one dies,but I have been waiting a long time for this one to die. I have a 1998 metro with a 3 cylinder suzuki engine and 5 speed manual transmission (150,000 miles). It is used as a to and from work car and goes through city and light highway. It has averaged 47 miles per gallon for the past year. GM and Suzuki have had a proffessional relationship for years. The two companies currently operate a shared plant that used to produce Suzuki Swifts and Geo/Chevy Metros. It now produces Suzuki Areos and Chevy Aveos. With very few exceptions the 1.3L motors found in these cars are identical. The same for the 1.0L three cylinder. As an aside, both these motors will work (with some slight modifications) in Suzuki Samurais. So when you are junk yard shopping don't pass on either car. They are virtually the same. try cleaning throttle plate and reseting code by discoecting neg battery cable.mine did same thing for months
The Metro and Aveo are not and were not manufactured in the same plant, and they do not share the same engine. The Aveo is made by the former Daewoo company, mostly in South Korea. The Metro was made in Canada, and previously in Japan.
The difference is significant because the Aveo's get poor mpg when compared with the 3 cylinder Metro.
the above answer is correct the aveo and metro are not the same car and have nothing to do with one another.
sounds like a blown head gasket or a cracked head. It could be a number of things and none of them are good. Most likely a crack in the head. If it is over heating this is probably the case. I have a 94 Prizim that at 99,000 miles began with oil in the coolant/antifreeze then shortly after this discovery it developed an engine knock followed by oil pump failure. This would be the fe4e 1.6L engine. In researching a replacement, I came across what turned out to be a very valuable bit of information. The original motor can be replaced with a Japanese import engine fe5e 1.5 lit ire. It bolts right in and looks the same but it cost 1/5 the price of the 1.6L. I paid $160 for a used 1.5L. They wanted $700 for the 1.6L. These motors are imported from Japan with less than 40,000 miles on them. I just put my wires, distributor, and fuel injection on it, it started first try, and runs like new. It is a little bit underpowered but not that bad and I am getting no less than 30mpg for fuel consumption that is better than when it was new.
If it's an Automatic, it could also be a bad radiator, with ATF leaking from the trany cooler.
Front or Rear?
You'll have to drain the tank first. This will make it easier to handle. Take off the gas cap first of all and disconnect your battery. Take the back seat cushion out and remove your fuel pump access cover. Disconnect the wire connectors to the pump then jack the car up and support it with jackstands. Next you remove the center exhaust pipe and heat insulator. Then you disconnect the parking brake cables and move them aside. Now you disconnect the fuel lines and the filler hose. Make sure you plug these hoses to prevent gas leaking out. Last thing is to remove the straps and gently lower the tank. You may want to have a floor jack with a board on it to support the tank. And it wouldn't hurt to have someone assist when you lower it and pull it out.
You need to check out Crutchfield.com - they will tell you what fits your vehicle. Everything from CD players to subs.
On my 1995 Geo Prizm, cannot open trunk from inside of car.
The engine VIN code 5 or VIN code 6 is the 8th character of the VIN stamped on the engine or on plate at bottom of drivers-side windshield. Both were OE with platinum-electrode plugs. The ignition and distributor are different between the two engines because the cylinder heads are different. There is the belief that the DOHC distributor can only be ordered from a dealer since the cables are integral to the cap, however this is not true. A replacement model with integral wires is available in the aftermarket.
Applicable to build dates Nov 1989 to end of 1992 production:
Vin 5 indicates the (legendary) Toyota 4A-GE DOHC, 16-valve, MPFI engine. Cylinder head designed by Yamaha. Engine oil cooler mounted behind bumper, in front of A/C condenser. Under hood emissions label or RPO LWO printed on the option sticker identifies this also. Service Manual Supplement specific to the GSi is ST373-yySUPP, where "yy" is the numeric model year.
Vin 6 indicates the Toyota 4A-FE found in Prizm Base and LSi models.
well...i asked that same question....the guy told me to wedge your fingers under the back of the speaker box and pull...it SHOULD come off...but i havent tried it...
You cannot just wedge your fingers under the speakers or the rear deck and pull, unless you want to destroy the rear deck, as it is only made of cardboard. The bottom seats lift up and out with a little effort. You then have to take a socket and remove the rear seat back. Pry the seats away at the side with your hand a little bit and down in there you will see the bolt head. There is one on each side of the seat back.
After you get that seat back out of there you will see that you can access the speakers by lifting up the deck lid.
I agree, you have to remove the entire rear deck to get the speakers out. I just did this this past weekend. I had the luxury of folding my back seats down instead of removing the seatbacks.
I agree, don't try to pry off the speaker cover, as others have said. I had to replace a speaker my self. 1) Pry off the bottom seat bench, it's clipped in so it should pop off. 2) Useing correct wrench or rachet undo the 3 or 4 bolts securing the backing of seat and remove it from car. 3) Pop the covering to break light in rear window off, should be 2 little pins holding it on, and remove light bult from covering. (may or may not need to do this. 4) In the trunk of car you'll need to push several pins up that fastens the rear deck down out.
You should then be able to get at the speakers.
Same answer as: "How do you replace a starter on a 92 Geo Prism LSI or GSI?" at this same site.
I have a 95 and am working on this right now. This answer should apply to years 93-97.
As many of you probably know, most of the time it goes bad it is not the $150 starter itself, it's the $5 contacts (just hit 80K mi?). Good news is, these are easy to replace ... once the starter is off.
Bad news is two-fold, although references to these contacts or 'brushes' are numerous, they are difficult to track down. The other bad news is actually accessing the mount bolts to physically remove the starter is challenging.
The top bolt is located on the backside of the engine, closest to the windshield. Hard to describe without a photo, but it's about the center of the engine, towards the bottom. It is next to a similar looking bolt, but the one you want is closest to the windshield. It is almost a necessity to remove the pair of hoses that connect from the engine to the heater. Use a pair of pliers to get at the clamps, then wiggle them free. Coolant spillage will ensue. Loosening a couple of other elictrical connections helps marginally, such as the obvious one to the distributor cap. In fact, taking out the air filter and its housing will also give you a little more space and is easy, but isn't necessary. Be prepared, you will most likely need a pipe attached to your wrench to create the torque to crack the bolt head.
The vehicle must be lifted (safety please!) w/ either a lift or ramps to access the bottom bolt. After the car is on the ramps or before it goes on a lift, this is the time to disconnect your battery. Theres not much else there; if you know what your starter looks like you should be able to see it along w/the batter connections. The bottom bolt head faces the opposite direction of the top. You will need to work towards the passenger side wheel, and find the room w/ your wrenches and extensions to create the necessary torque with both the exhaust manifold and the suspenion/axle in the way. I recommend disconnecting the two battery hook-ups first.
Once its free, actually sliding it out requires careful manuvering. A mechanic recommended taking it out through the topside(hood), but I had success manuvering the contraption out throught the suspension, around the manifold, through what can best be described as the most obvious spot. Tricky.
There are instructions on the net for rebuilding the starter in detail, as most of the nippon denso fail for the same reason. Quick synopsis: remove the tree smaller bolts on the pentagon shaped cover to the solenoid. CAREFULLY remove the nuts that hold the many parts onto the bolts (don't brake the small wires inside!), and remember their order/positioning. Your looking to replace the copper contacts that have a ridge worn in them (notice the battery side is more thoroughly worn).
Once you've identified and replaced, hooking it back up is easy enough.
I've relaced several of these starters and have never had to take the coolant hose off from the heater! It does help, but it's absolutely not necessary. The first one I did take off, it took me about 30 minutes. You definitely want to take the starter out from underneath.
There is also an alternate method to replace the starter without lifting the vehicle.
Please see the question "How do you change the starter on a 1996 Toyota Corolla?" Many of the instructions are the same for Corolla and Prizm since they are based upon the same development platform.
The bulb is located to the rear(back near the #1) underneath the console plate. It is a smaller bulb like a #194. You do not have to remove the shift handle. Take out the ashtray, and carefully pry up along the edges of the plate. It is held in place by tabs that fit into the console. You'll be able to lift it high enough to see the wire to the bulb connected to the underneath of the gear indicator, twist the bulb housing and pull off, take old bulb out by pulling it straight out and replace. Assembling is the reverse of the above steps.
i just came across the same thing within the last week and it wasent a sensor its a cable drivin speedo...if that helps any
I am a mechanic and changing the clutch on that car is not that difficult ((for me anyway)). Well before you start doing anything I have to ask a few important questions.
1 How strong are you physically? (you will have to be strong to realign the transmission once the clutch is changed if working with home facilities.)
2 What kind of mechanical background do you have? If none don't even attempt this job. Now onward to the work part.
Be sure to read all these instructions through before you begin.
First remove the front hubcaps. Then loosen the all the lug nuts just a little. Now get out the largest breaker bar you have (3/4" drive recommended) Now break loose the drive axle hub nuts (both sides!). This will probably be incredibly difficult and you might need someone to stand on the brakes to keep the wheel from turning.Make sure the socket stays squarely on the hub nut while standing on the breaker bar.
Now raise the vehicle and support it on jackstands make sure the car is very steady.Ok now remove the lug nuts and take both the front tires off.Now your neighbors are probably eyeing you skeptically they always do that,ignore them.Ok now loosen the bolts that hold the brake calipers on,remove the caliper assembly and suspend it out of the way with a coat hanger.((((do not remove the brake lines from the calipers!!!))) Get out your steering knuckle splitter.Remove the cotter pin and take off the steering knuckle nut.Now use the splitter to separate the lower steering arm from the upper part.warning This will require lots of banging and cursing.
The steering arm that comes out of the powers steering assembly may also have to be removed in a similar fashion to the steering knuckle.To find out if you need to do that first climb under the car with a flat prybar and pop the drive axles loose from the transaxle. Now try to remove the drive axles from the car. You will have to push the end of the drive axle out of the assembly with the brake disk and wheel bearings first.Them pull it out of the transaxle and let it hang there. You will not need to remove them any further unless they get in the way. Now go inside the engine compartment and remove anything that is in the way of removing the transmission. (pretty much most of the junk in there including hoses and wiring assemblies)
Now put a jack under the engine to support it while the transmissions out.Also put a jack under the transmission this will be needed to lower it. Now break loose all the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Then unbolt any other mounts from the transmission to the car. Remove all those suckers. Make sure to take loose the shifter linkages, fluid cooling lines (plug these since fluid will come spewing out) also remove the torque bar if present. It may also be necessary to remove part of the exhaust system to get it out of the way. Now make sure everything is loose then take out the bolst holding the engine and transmission together. Now slide the transmission away from the engine by rolling the jack. Remember this is never as easy as it sounds so that strength I asked about earlier will come in handy about now. Now lower the transmission and remove the clutch assembly from the flywheel. Also replace the throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Installation is reverse:)
Results are not guaranteed.
Water pump replacement on a 1994 Geo.
Get a repair manual
Let the engine cool
Disconect negative Battery cable
Drain coolant from Radiator
Loosen water pump pully bolts
Remove drive belts
Remove water pump pully
Remove crankshaft pully
remove timing cover
remove timing belt >>>It helps it you line the crank up at top dead center before doing this. Make sure you do not nove the crankshaft or the camshaft or you will have to re set the valve timing. Also since you are going this far you might consider replacing the timing belt.<<<
unbolt water pump
Clean water pump bolts
Clean gasket mating surfaces
install pump w/new gasket
torq to 11 ft-lbs
Replace everything in reverse order
what motor do you have? 4a-LC ...43 4a-fe ...44 4a-ge ... step one ...22 step two ...Rotate 90-dgrees step three ..Rotate 90 dgrees
Being a beginner in the DIY (do-it-yourself) area in the automotive world may be a little difficult. If you don't know where your distributor cap is on your Accord, it is probobly best to consult a professional or an Accord owners manual.\
The owner's manual probably doesn't say much about where the distributor cap is located. Is your car a 6 cylinder or 4? that question first, go to your local parts store, purchase the new cap and they will be happy to show you where it goes. Be sure and put the spark plug wires back on in the proper order, by doing them one at a time.
It depends on what engine you have. Some don't have distributers. GoodluckJoe
For the 1.8L & 2.0 L OHV Engines (For diagrams e-mail me: LanceRViolator@aol.com) <From a Chilton's> ON Chevrolet V6 models the distributor body is involved in the engine lubrication system. The lubrication circuit to the right bank valve train can be interrupted by misalignment of the distributor body. (Know your firing order to have correct position)
The '87-92 Chevy built 4 cyl 2.0: & V6 2.8L engines do not have a distributor. (They are DIS)
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Tag and disconnect all wires leading from the distributor cap. 3. Remove the air cleaner housing as previously detailed. 4. Remove the distributor cap. 5. Disconnect the AIR pipe-to-exhaust manifold hose at the air management valve. 6. Unscrew the rear engine lift bracket bolt an nut, lift it off the stud and then position the entire assembly out of the way to facilitate better access to the distributor. 7. Mark the position of the distributor, relative to the engine block and then scribe a mark on the distributor body indication the initial position of the rotor. 8. Remove the holddown nut and clamp fro the base of the distributor. Remove the distributor from the engine. The drive gear on the distributor shaft is helical and the shaft will rotate slightly as the distributor is removed. Note and mark the posistion of the rotor at this secod position. Do not crank the engine while the distributor is removed. 9. To install the distributor, rotate the shaft until the rotor aligns with the second mark you made (when the shaft stoped moving). Lubricate the drive gear with clean engine oil and install the distributor into the engine. As the distributor is installed the rotor should move to the first mark that you made. This will ensure proper timing. If the marks do not align properly, remove the didtributor and try again. 10. Install the clamp and holddown nut.
--> You may wish to use a magnet attached to a extention bar to position the clamp on the stud.
11. Installation o fthe remaining components is in the reverse order of removal. Check the ignition timing.
1.8L and 2.0L OHC Engines ( For Diagram e-mail me)
1. Disconnect the battery ground 2. Mark the spark plug wires and remove the wires & coil. 3. Matchmark the position of the rotor, distributor body and cylinder head. 4. Disconnect the wiring from the distributor. 5. Remove the two distributor holddown nuts. 6. Remove the distributor. 7. Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the holddown nuts to 13 ft. lbs.
When the engine is cold, check for serpentine belt condition and tension with a flashlight and your hand by pushing on the belt at about the halfway mark between pulleys. There should be 1/2 inch or less play in the belt. Also check for cracking along the inside surface ribs of all belts. There should be 3 total belts if you have air conditioning. Any cracking along the belt ribs and the belts should be replaced and properly tensioned. If the belts look ok so far, have a helper start the vehicle while you watch the pulleys with a flashlight. Any signs of a pulley that is not rotating with the engine is a sign of the component attached to the pulley begining to seize. Whether this is a power-steering pump, A/C compressor or other pulley driven item, it should be inspected or possibly replaced by a qualified individual.
See Figure 4
Failure to disconnect the negative cable may result in injury from the positive battery lead at the alternator and may short the alternator and regulator during the removal process.
Fig. 4: Alternator mounting - 1993 all modelsWell...The answer and reply to the answer below do not take into account the fact that the bottom bolt is -not- reachable from beneath the car. A crescent wrench from the top, in the incredibly tiny space, is the only way I could find to get to it; however, the tiny space also limited lateral movement, which meant that (had I chosen to continue) I would have been standing there making little 1/8 turns all day. Your best bet is to buy the alternator for it, take it to a mechanic you trust, and ask him if he can take the 20 minutes or so (air tools are a blessing) to change it for you. Labor will be cost effective if he will agree that it won't take long to ONLY replace the alternator, and it will be done right.
As far as metric or SAE goes, I found that SAE seemed to be a tighter fit. Keep the metrics handy if you find that it's a little too hard to get around the bolt.Reply to theThis information helped me change my Geo Prism alternator. I might add that remember to have aset of metric sockets and box wrenches. The work space around the alternator is very confined. The bolt directly under the alternator is nearly impossible to see from above. Use a box end wrench to loosen this bolt. Thebolt threads into the belt/alternator tightening mechanism. The third bolt can barely be seen from above in front . This bolt can beloosened but do not remove it. This tightening bolt uses a metric socket and since it is right against the radiator be careful not to cut up your hands. Replacing the bottom bolt is tricky and I improvised using a piece of tape to hold in place the tightening nut the bolt threads into. Do not mount the to bolt until attaching the bottom bolt loosely!! Lat step is tighteniing the top bolt after tightening the alternator belt. I recheck all three bolts last and reconnect the electrical. Thanks to Mike I was able today June 12 install my new alternator. I'm 62 on a fixed income and a rusty mechanic whosaved about $75 or more in labor..Alternator at Napa parts store cost $140.00 including sales tax Thanks again!!
You un-hook negative battery terminal first. Remove top bolt, it won't come out all the way, but will be out for enough to pull out unit later. You will need to un-hook the two electrical leads attached to the unit on the right, pull them out of the way. Then under the alternator (bottom bolt), is a bolt that you loosen, easier from underneath the car to see it and loosen it. One more bolt to loosen, the adjusting screw. Loosen that quite a bit to move the alternator so you can remove the belt. Then make sure the bottom bolt holding the unit in is out completely, and the unit should come out with a little work. Might need to tap on the top with a hammer lightly to loosen it. When it is out, you should be able to see how to install the new one easily, buy an alternator with a lifetime warrenty, as mine went bad a couple of times already. So three wires to disconnect. And three bolts, but only one needs to be out completely to remove the unit. . Mike
Sounds like a coolant temperature sensor as a guess. I had the same problem and it turned out to be the starter.
First you must drain the coolant. Remove powersteering pump[keep hoses connected)this is just to make room for water pump removal so just sit it off to he side.Loosen the the water pump pulley mounting bolts, remove the drivebelt,remove the pump pulley. Remove the pump mounting bolts and pul the pump from engine.Install every thing in reverse ,but be sure to clean the mating surface of old sealer and gasket first, also be sure to use RTV gasket sealer on engine side of the new gasket.Be sure not to over/under tighten the bolts the torque specs. are 22 to 29 for the long bolts and 96 to132 for short bolts and 108 to 132 ft lb for the pulley bolts.
It is a Chevy but the engine and drivetrain is that of a Toyota Corolla.
It was made by Toyota and is a rebadged Toyota Corolla.
The Geo Prism is the new name given to the car that was called the Chevrolet Nova in the late 80s. The Chevrolet Nova was built by General United, a General Motors - Toyota joint venture. It is, as noted above, mostly the same as a Toyota Corolla.
Nummi. Nummi also made it for Toyota as the Corolla.
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