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how many shells does it hold

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Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Pour in 4 quarts of oil and start the engine, letting it run for 1 minute. Shut off and wait 30 minutes. Check the oil level and add enough to fill it to the full mark. You now know the capacity

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the lester piano was first made when the democratic bethovan came back to write a sonatas and he had Bac and everybody.

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behind the flip out storage compartment by your left knee when behind the wheel

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Same answer as: "How do you replace a starter on a 92 Geo Prism LSI or GSI?" at this same site.

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warped rotors , bad brakes,tie rods, tiresbad ,

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First make a sketch of how the belt is routed over and under the pulleys. As you face the engine from the passenger side of the vehicle, look toward the firewall side of the engine for a pulley mounted on an "arm". This is the tensioner for the belt. On this arm is a 3/4" nut welded to it. Turn it clockwise toward the front of the car and the arm & pulley should swing enough for the belt to be pulled off. Replacing the belt is tricky because the new belt will be stiff and have bends set into a weird shape. It is best done with two people. One should be under the car and one on top. I did it with my wife. I was underneath. Start at the front of the car and work toward the rear leaving the tensioner for last. I made the final loop over the tensioner from underneath while my wife relieved the tensioner. You could do it from on top if they are skilled enough to un-tension the arm and position the belt. Both will have to hold the belt from slipping off as the belt as it is rerouted. Make some small golf club shaped or hooked tools to push / pull the belt over and under pulleys, it will help.

If you are doing this job yourself, it is a little easier to save the alternator for last.

Working from the front of the car you can pull on the tensioner (I used a 3/4" socket on a breaker bar) forward with one hand, while slipping the belt over the alternator pulley at the same time. Tricky, but it works!

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This is for a 1997+ model Chevrolet Prizm. First, disconnect your battery and remove it (negative lead first, positive second). This will come in handy later. Jack your vehicle up and mount it on jack stands. Now remove the two splash shields on the underside. Your starter will be mounted on the forward section of the engine, roughly centered. From the underside you should be able to remove the bottom mounting bolt and disconnect the two electrical connections (One is mounted on a threaded terminal post, the other is a molex-style connector). The top mounting bolt is a little tricker, but made markedly easier having earlier removed your battery. It is on the reverse side from the other mounting bolt and has quite a bit of clutter around it. A short, slim profile ratchet will come in very handy here (something I wish I'd had). After you have disconnected the leads and removed the two mounting bolts, you should be able to wiggle the starter out from the underside. Installation of the starter is the exact reverse of this procedure. Good luck! ---- A minor note in addition. It took my a couple hours to figure this out, but the top bolt on the starter is opposite the bottom bolt. Because of the exhaust system is directly on top of the starter, there is no possible way you can get at the top bolt IF it were going the same direction as the bottom bolt. This means the top bolt is inserted toward the passenger side of car, and the bottom bolt is inserted toward the driver side. The bottom bolt is about an inch shorter than the top bolt, do not mix them up after removal. I was easily able to remove the top bolt with a 1/2 socket and drive with about 12" of socket extensions, I also had greater torque using the larger wrench. The bottom bolt should be easily removed if you follow the first set of instructions. When installing the starter, I put the bottom bolt in first, leaving an eighth of an inch loose, I then wiggled the starter while inserting the top bolt with my 12" of drive extensions until it caught the threads. * ** *** **** ***** hand tighten bolts with hand or with socket extension until you are forced to use a wrench to tighten the rest of the way!!!************ I hope this clarifies it for all you do-it-yourselfers. mounting bolts are a metric14mm

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screwdriver?

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Real simple, just open the hood disconnect the wire harness from the bulb, and then remove the screws holding it in. There's only two of them according to the manual.

There will be a total of 2 screws, 1 bolt, and 2 nuts to remove the assembly (and, of course, disconnect the two bulbs). The 2 screws are Phillips head and the bolt will need a 10mm wrench (they are on top). The 2 nuts are also 10mm and are behind the clear turn light rounding off the the side of the headlight assembly. Only one screw holds that in and a peg in that light faces straight ahead, so remove that by forcing that light forward. The assembly now only has a friction pivot on the bottom holding it, this also must be pryed straight forward. They will not pop off easily as they are a tight fit.

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The 12 guage that was my great grandpa,grandpa and my dads is dated 1922 i have one that has the dates 01' on it The company existed with that name from 1871 to 1987 and made 12 gauge shotguns from the beginning to the end.

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should be in the owner's manual or on a sticker somewhere under the hood.

you should not try to reach it from the top of the car, impossible, instead, under the car is a plastic cover on the passenger side, take the bolts out and its a piece of cake to replace, just have someone move the tensioner up for you to get the belt off and on fully...then done.

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http://prodactor.blogspot.com/2005/09/removing-door-panel-from-toyota.html

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Hi, I have a 1999 Chevy Prizm and had a similar problem right after I had the engine cleaned. It turned out that the pressure washer got some water inside the spark plug boots. I limped to a mechanic who replaced the wires and plugs and it has run perfectly since. BTW, it is the best car I have ever owned. I'm at 107K now and haven't had a single problem (besides this one which wasn't it's fault. :-) I had this problem for over a year. Had the O2 sensors replaced but no help. Finally took it to the dealer. They solved the problem by changing the MAF sensor. The car runs MUCH better now too.

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Disconnect the battery. Unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt the alternator, and bolt the new one in. Put the belts back on it. Plug it back in and reconnect the battery. Voila! You changed your own alternator!

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Well, I asked this question aboved, but I found the answer myself. Here's what I did:

First off, the location on the starter is behind the engine block (if you look up underneath your vehicle, you will see it past the front exhaust pipe).

What you need to do first is disconnect the negative and positive battery cables.

Next, take of the air cleaning unit and it's base on the right side of the engine. You will disconnet a cable connected to the air cleaning unit when you do this. This will allow you room to stick you hands underneath the starter to remove the lower bolt (explained later). After removing the air cleaning unit and the base, jack the car up and place safety stands on the vehicle.

(Note: It might make it easier for you to remove the starter if you take of the the front exausts pipe underneath the vehicle)

Now you will locate the ignition switch lead, and the positive battery cable lead, which are at the far bottom of the starter, on the starter.

The ignition swith lead is a black square connection. Disconnect the connection.

The positive battery cable lead is next to that, but is held in by a small nut. Unscrew the nut and disconnect the positive battery cable lead wire.

Next your gonna locate two bolts that are holding the starter assembly in place (which are on the opposite end of where you just disconnected those wires).

This my be a little tricky to find without being able to show you a diagram. You may want to look up pictures of a 1992 Geo Prizm starter on line so you can see where they are at, or go to an automovite store and have them show you a new starter.

But generally, there are two bolts connected to the flywheel holding the starter. The top bolt is facing the left of the vehicle, while the bottom bolt is facing the right.

After undoing the bolts, you can take the starter out. Installation is reverse from above.

(Note: When installing the starter, hand tighten the bolts first to prevent stripping)

I basically went to an autoshop and asked to see the starter, so I could located the parts of the starter on the vehicle. I also downloaded some pictures off the internet from people who sold starters. This helped me locate where these connections are.

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I stumbled across these instructions on another site and they worked great for me. I had it replaced in about 15 minutes. This is for the inside door handle. 1. Remove the small screw holding the plastic trim bezel at the inside door release. Slide the trim towards the front of the car. If it is the drivers side, that would be to the right viewed from inside the car. If it is the passenger's side, it would be to left to free it from the door. 2. Disconnect the rod from the door handle and remove the handle. Before attempting to disconnect the rod, note that the retaining clip can be released from the rod and pivoted out of the way. The rod then lifts free.

Then it's a matter of putting in the new door handle\trim by inserting the rod into the hole and then pivoting the retaining clip back in place so it locks the rod. Then slide the handle/trim back in place and put the screw back in.

These instructions work for a 2001 Prizm LSI with power windows and door locks also. I would suspect the 1998-2002 would be the same, but I can not confirm that.

The only thing that disappointed me was I ordered the incorrect color trim off the Internet (bone instead of brown) but hey it works great now! Check on Ebay for door handles. Big savings over the dealer pricing.

Edit: The person who wrote these instructions is exactly correct -- it worked perfectly on my Chevy Prizm 1999. Thanks to the author.

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The only fix is to replace it. If you are mechanicly inclined, this is a doable deal.

Before you replace the sensor you should check the wiring for resistance you can use a volt/ohms meter (vom) and test the continuity of the wiring to the sensor.

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Toyota, i have a 1999 and it is the same car as a 1999 Toyota corolla, except for random parts like the radio, badging and a few other things being from GM

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The same as you do in the 1968 Buick Wildcat

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The bulb assembly needs to be removed from the front of the vehicle. Open the hood, and you will see that the entire plastic headlight assembly is held in place by a few hex head screws. Once these are removed the entire assembly can be lifted out, giving you access to the lamp socket. Replace the lamp (bulb)and reinstall. NOTE _ Be careful not to drop the screws in between the radiator and the grill, as they are hard to retrieve and usually get stuck on the body panel below the bumper. **you can actually avoid taking out the entire headlight if you just remove anything in the way of reaching behind the assembly. on the right side, it would be the fuse box, on the left side you can probably just reach behind if your hands aren't too large. then remove the rubber seal by prying it off. there is a spring clip that holds in the bulb, remove that by sliding it out from behind the bulb, then remove the bulb and replace.

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I'm not sure about the 1993 model but in the 2001 they don't have "Freon" (meaning R12) any more. The refrigerant is stored in that silver canister on the front left side of the engine-bay. R12 is expensive to replace. AC service providers are EPA licenced to service R12 & R134 systems, but they won't sell you the "stuff". So, you have to go to a service provider. I hope this helped. == 1993 Prizms still used Refrigerant-12, commonly known as "Freon". Later models use R-134. Refrigerant is distributed throughout the system. The excess refrigerant and oil is held in the drier/receiver. If you have a tight system and can afford it, stick with the R12. You will not regret it. Retrofit to R134 can be very problematic and expensive.