The factor pairs of 72 are:
1 × 72
2 × 36
3 × 24
4 × 18
6 × 12
8 × 9
If the antenna does not motor in and out, it can be the antenna mast OR the motor assembly. Usually you can hear the motor moving and if so, it may be ok. It is probably a broken or worn out or badly installed antenna cable. The antenna mast has a nylon sprocket cable that winds in the motor assembly and that sometimes break or wears out so you need to replace the integrated antenna mast-nylon cable assembly.
To replace the antenna mast or to reinstall the mast, you must first remove the nut on top of the antenna by using needle nose pliers. Turn the radio on while pulling on the antenna, it should come off easily and the nylon cable protrudes at the bottom, pull on it and you should see about 1-2 feet of cable.
If the cable is ok and not broken or worn out, perhaps it was badly installed (or it is actually broken and a piece of it is in the motor spool). The sprockets need to point in a particular direction (try front or side) to work properly. Reinstall and check for proper operation.
To reinstall, turn the radio off and feed into the hole while the motor is winding, it should be caught and reeled right in. If problems continue, you need to replace the mast or perhaps the nylon cable is broken inside the spool in the motor assembly
The mast is relatively cheap online and can be installed as described above.
To get to the motor assembly you need to access it from the fender. Remove the cover of the wheel well (that prevents mud/water from entering the engine compartment) and the motor assembly will be accessible. Remove one screw to drop the assembly. If you need to change the assembly, this is it.
If you are to change the antenna mast and there is some broken cable inside, continue by removing the plastic cover to uncover the assembly. There is a black plastic cover on top that you must then remove to access the wheel that winds the antenna nylon cable. Now you can remove the broken cable.
Marion Jones (United States) – Fastest Time: 10.65 seconds
Jones won the 100 meters at the 1998 IAAF World Cup in South Africa with a period of 10.65.
There are several ways to do this. You can round 9 to 10, since it is fairly close; dividing by 10 is easy, and rounding 9 to 10 gives you an error of about 11%.
Also, you can round the first two digits of 524 to the closest multiple of 9; in that case, it is easy to divide it by 9.
In any case, it should be possible to do all these calculations mentally (that's the main point of estimating).
remove the pass. finder linner and find plug to the motor and disconnect it
Check out some of my other submissions as well.
When I did mine I was pretty complete in changing some items. Belts Hoses and internal parts. My cost was between 1300 and 1000 dollars. I also had the block taken to a shop and they cleaned, checked and honed the cylinders for me. Something I consider a must since its critical to re-hone properly for a good seal on the new piston rings. The rebuild kit alone was around 650.00. Go to Autozone .com or NAPA.com and check some parts replacement costs yourself. That will give you an idea of some costs.
Oh and I did all the work myself. Garage fees would double this price.
Not the early modesl. I have an 86 4 cyl and a 95 6 cyl. Both perform well on regular.
If you can get at them with a drill buy an easyout which is like a drill bit but the threads are backwards. The size of the bolts will determine the size of the easyout and the size of the drill bit to use. Drill a hole down through the middle of the bolt and then insert the easyout and turn counter clockwise. The bolt should come loose. Soak the bolt first with liquid wrench or some other penetrating fluid to loosen up, the longer the better. If you have room to put a pair of vise grips on the bolt then this method would be easier. The secret is to soak with the liquid wrench for as long as possible.
I have used the PB Penetrating Catalyst to unfasten one of the rusted and broken bolt on my old brake caliper. It took few spray and overnight to break the tought broken bolt but it's better than drilling the threads in my opinion. This product is amazing and I have told my friends to try this as well.
wow this is a tough one. you have to be careful and remember take your time. i had to change one in a 84 mercury grand marquis - my car had a metal frame enclosing it . 1. remove the door panel 2. remove the trim piece that looks like a windshield wiper blade, it touches the window 3 remove the large door glass 4. there may be a screw on the door frame holding the little window in place remove it now remove the screw holding it to the inside of the door panel if you see a rivet instead drill it out. 5. drop the small window frame in the door and pull it out through the large window opening. your car may have a window gasket also holding in place pull this off. this is a very difficult job so take your time .
As i am doing it now. remove the two Philips head screws that hold the back-up light housing in place, use a flat head screw driver to pry them from the body. They are also held in place by a couple of clips. The center bulb is your guy. Twist the plastic holder to the left a bit and pull out the bulb holder. The bulb then easily pulls out. I took this down to Napa and for just a couple bucks they grabbed me two more. If after changing the bulbs they still don't illuminate and neither do the lights on your gear shift collum ie: P-R-N-D-2-1 then you have a much bigger problem like i am dealing with
the crank pulley has a notch that should line up with the timing teeth attached to the block. it will be on the right side when looking under the hood right below the alternator. the other two marks are on the cam shaft pulley on both side. there is a triangular indentation on the pulley wich lines up to a dent mark on the uper pully shield (seen only with the upper timing chain cover removed) around 12oclock position an both.
axial ratio is a prarameter for determining how good circular polarisation
call police or car towing services
check the fuse panel and the fuses
Replace the CD player. To pull the plastic baffle off the dashboard: Adjust the heating vents so they point downwards. Grab the plastic bar between the heating vents and the stereo. Pull.
Remove the screws from the front of the mounting brackets. Pull out the crappy stereo. Unplug the antenna and the wiring harnesses. Transfer the mounting brackets to your new stereo. Cut off the big wiring harness (unless you're lucky enough to have a replacement stereo that accepts the same kind). Connect the wires to the wires on your new stereo's harness.
For more info: check the website: http://tomclegg.net/toyotastereo
They do make a wiring plug for aftermarket systems sold at wal mart I replaced mine using this plug took about 10 minutes to install stereo with this plug
If you are talking about the "VSC Off" light, it means that the button to disengage your cars Vehicle Stability/Skid Control" system is engaged. Press the VSC button, the system should reengage, and the light should turn off.
If you are talking about the other VSC light, it means that your car has been forced to take evasive action to avoid a dangerous situation. For example, if you are driving on an icy road, and take a turn too tight, the vehicle may be forced to apply pressure to one of the brakes to prevent the car from loosing control. In this situation the VSC indicator light will light up to alert you that the action was taken, and remind you to possibly slow down.
Not changing the oil and not having oil are 2 different things. Not changing the oil on those kind of miles will sludge up an engine in the long run leaving you in the same place you are now. Also not changing it, especially in cold weather will leave moisture in the oil and this is another engine killer. Many of the Saturn's are oil eaters. I have seen many them use a few quarts between a 3000 mile oil change.
It won't be severe if you have only missed a few oil changes... but... it takes life away from your engine. Engine oil lubricates and protects all of the moving parts, when the oil is dirty it will cause the parts to wear much faster. I've seen people who haven't changed their oil in over a year and it's black... I also saw a vehicle that didn't have an oil change in 5 years. The oil was as black as black can get and came out like tar, we took off the oil pan and it was just sludge. Not pretty. Take care of your vehicle and it will take care of you. People who get regular oil changes prolong the life of their engines.
Actually it is probably fine if all your trips exceed 10 miles and you don't idle to much. Most manufacturers recommend 7,500 mile intervals for highway type driving. I own an Audi Quattro Turbo and a 05 Bonneville GXP (300 hp Northstar v8). Both cars use Mobile one 0w40 synthetic oil. With the Audi I had used oil analysis done and found that 10,000 mile changes were fine and still had some reserve, could probably go 12k without issue. I have not done that on the Bonneville as that is my toy and doesn't get used much. I chance the oil when the GM oil life monitor tells me to. It varies from 4500-8000 miles usually because I have reached the one year requirement.
I summary I would not be concerned at all. If you are an average user with dinosaur oil than change it every 5k, synthetic 7500 unless you confirm you can go further through testing the drain oil.
There may be a wire from the sensor that is loose or grounding incorrectly. Open your doors and u should see a Little button on the inside frame. Check all these for all the doors to find the culprit
The diesel engine can do 500,000ks if driven correctly and all the filter and oil changes are have been done. I work at a Toyota Dealership and i have seen 4Runners with over 350,000k that run on normal petrol and engines still running fine, with with proper servicing of course being done. One of the main things to make sure gets done are the oil and oil filter changes. Most car manufacturers suggest 5,000 or 7,500 miles between oil changes. There is nothing in the rule book that says you can't do it in smaller intervals. Your new car warranty will not be affected if you do this sooner than what they say is required. Treat your car's engine with lots of TLC and it will reward you with years of troublefree service.
Also, check all fluid levels in your engine at least once a week ... most professional drivers check theirs every day - sometimes more than once a day, too.
They are really simple and easy for anyone who has done pads on any car before. If you have never done pads before, do yourself a favor. Find a mentor or buy a book or figure out how to do this, with a fail-safe method. These are the brakes, screw this up and you might find out the hard way why you should not attempt this alone.
I have a '75, I hope it's the same. Tilt the seat forward (release should be at the top of the seat back) and you'll expose to cap bolts that screw up into the seat back and two that screw down into the rear of the seat base. Adjust accordingly.
Line up the timing marks on both camshaft sprockets so that they face each other. And line up the crankshaft pulley mark with the mark on the engine block.
YOUR WASTING PEPPER. It won't work. Replace the radiator.
there are grease fittings on the driveshafts only. there are 3 on the front and 6 on the rear driveshaft. raise the vehicle up and put the transmission in neutral. the driveshafts can then be rotated to expose the fittings at the u-joints and the sliding joints.
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