It's possible that the water pump is failing or that there is a blockage in the cooling system. I would also recommend checking the radiator hoses for leaks or restrictions and ensuring that the cooling fans are functioning properly. It may be helpful to have a mechanic perform a pressure test on the cooling system to identify any potential issues.

ITS HARD TO SEE BUT IT SHOULD AT THE REAR OF THE INTAKE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT

Easy job on the 2002. Turn the two center air vents down and look inside above them. You will see a screw in each. Remove the screws and the face plate will come off. The radio is then bolted into the dash and can easily be removes. I hope no car radio theives are reading this!

This list is specific to the 1992 Cherokee with the 4.0l I6 engine- hope it helps: loosen and remove the belt(s) Unbolt the exhaust/intake manifolds (there are 13 bolts i think... maybe 15) and discard the gasket- one bolt goes through the power steering mount unbolt the valve cover about 15 bolt unbolt the head (all remaining bolts on the top, and going in sideways from the AC compressor discard head gasket, and clean ALL gasket mating surfaces Put it all back together. MAKE SURE you follow the manual's bolt torquing pattern!!! otherwise you just did a bunch of work for nothing. By removing the head and replacing the gasket.

I have a '95 buick regal with a similar problem. I took it to the local dealer, who changed the crankshaft positioning sensor and one of the ignition modules and the problem was fixed. I researched it on the internet and found several other cases with the same sensor problem. You can in theory change it yourself, but it's not easy - I think I paid $200-250 for parts and labor.

running rich, cause by bad O2 sensor and/or bad cats.

1

800.00 to1100.00 used

there should be a drain fill plug on the front your diff. Since you have the IFS probably the easierst way to get oil into it would be to use along piece of fuel line from the top of your engine to the fill plug and just fill it from under the hood rather fan fighting with the bottle underneith the truck.

This means you have a 4.0L. There is no other way.....

If you do not know this most basic automotive skill, I suggest you take it to a shop and let someone who knows what their doing, check the timing. If it is beyond the +or- 3 degrees have them adjust it back to spec's.

You do not say why in your question. Usually timing is good for long periods of time, what makes you think it is out of spec?

Buy a 'timing light' and follow the instructions that come with it.

no power to fuel pump

you can raise the torsion bars in the front and put blocks in the back is the cheapest way out put in a body lift $100-150 for a kit plus a weekend

but this can cause other issues with the radiator, shifter, and gas tank

Could b an O2 sensor OR a Stuck open thermostat or one that's 2 cold-EVEN a clogged muffler or converter-many other things can cause your condition.

You were careful not to get any dirt on the hotwire/resistor in the sensor? I had a dead bug get on mine, and it didn't get burnt off like it was supposed to. This thing is very sensitive, so any debris on the wire will give you problems. You did plug in the IAT sensor, right? There is also a chance that you have the wrong MAF sensor.

like any other engine turn the engine until the number one piston is top dead center and then install the distributor where the rotor button is on the plug wire for number one cylinder it should start there and final adjust by twisting distributor until running smooth

The 1994 Toyota pickup heater relay location can be found in the fuse block number 3. The fuse block is located above the glove box and can be seen when the glove box is removed.

sound energy is caused by vibration.

First off you didn't say why you would want to replace the brake line. I have never worked on a Ford Escort-- but almost all cars are the same. The brake line runing from the front of the car to the back is a metal tubing, and I will assume that is what you are wanting to replace. Usually the tubing hooks to the Master Cylinder at the front, and runs to the back to a "block" of somekind welded or bolted at the rear of the car. The "block" is there to be used to extend the brake lines farther. Usually the tube goes into the block, and than a soft line is ran from the other side of the "block" to the wheel cylinder which is located on the brake drum assembly. This way the soft tube (also part of the brake line system) can flex as the wheel travels up and down, which a hard line can not do. On some cars, that "block" is used to bring the fluid to the back of the car, going into the "block" and than two hard lines come back out and runs to each side of the car, than it goes into another "block" to allow the soft line to be installed to the wheel cylinder. The "block" is more or less an adapter and that's all it does. There is nothing inside those "blocks", its just a point to add more brake lines, that continue onto the wheel cylinder. NOW -- unless the tubing from the front to the back has been damaged, there is no reason to replace it since it is metal. You can disconnect it from the front, and at the rear block, and blow air thur it to make sure it is not clogged. If it isn't clogged than there is no problem with that brake line, unless you can see it leaking. If it is damaged, the first thing you need to do is follow it from front to back to see if it goes under the body and is easy to get to, some cars have the brake line running under the car, some cars have the brake line going thru the tunnel between the front seats and to the back of the car, and some cars have the brake line under the carpeting going to the back of the car. Under the car brake lines are easy to replace, they are usually just held in by clips attached to the frame. If the brake line goes thru the interior, than it maybe a real job to get to it and replace it. The other problem is the year of the car. Unless the dearlership still has factory brake lines for that year, you are kind of in a bind. You can buy brake line tubing and make your own, but you will need the tools to cut and bend the brake lines, and tools to attach the ends that are needed for the brake line, without the tools, you will have to take it to someone with the tools that can do that, you cannot bend the metal brake lines by hand, they kink, that's why you need a tube bender. And you need a flaring tool to be able to attach the ends needed to the brake line, and a tubing cutter to cut the brake line, hacksaws don't work to well for this type of job. I hope this has been of help to you, if you know what your doing, its not hard to replace brake lines or make your own, just takes a little practice.

I just replaced the headlights on my 1989 truck and to do that you have to loosen the bumper, and remove the grill and the marker lights (great fun). I got stumped a little at the marker lights. After you remove the screws, they pull straight out perpendicular to the vehicle. So imagine you are in the driver's seat: the right marker light pulls straight out to the right, and the left goes straight out to the left. There are two little pins on the marker light assembly that go into corresponding holes on the sides of the front grill. There are plastic doohickies (technical term of course) that make those fit snuggly in the holes. I used a small screwdriver slipped in between the front grill and the marker light assembly to carefully leverage the marker lights straight out. The plastic things can become brittle so be careful to pull straight out and avoid breaking them.

Good luck.

-RM

It sucks you had to go through all that, to repalce your headlights, I removed the turn signals, popped the top row of clips, removed the top screws in the headlight brackets and CAREFULLY bent the light brackets and the side of the grill I was working on, if you're careful, it works fine and saves a ton of hassles, if you're not careful, you'll replace your grill at no cheap cost, I did both sides rather then just the blown light....

Remove the vacuum line connected to it, (top center of valve cover - vacuum line connects to intake manifold). Roll a rag and place it next to the valve, using a pair of pliers pry up on the valve using the rag as a fulcrum. When removed from the grommet, use the pliers to remove the grommet from the valve cover and replace both.

If it is equipped with a automatic transmission, then it has one. If your 4 runner has a clutch, then you do not have a torque converter. As a rule of thumb, only automatic's have a torque converter.

2100

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