PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation.
They are usually right in plain sight on top of the valve cover. If you had one you probably could have changed it yourself in about 30 seconds or less.
A PCV valve helps keep a constant pressure within the engine block by releasing oil fumes when they get to a certain pressure and sending them into the fuel system to be reburned with the gas.
While they can be inexpensive, they can be very hard to locate and remove on several makes of cars and trucks. Some are internal and cannot be replaced, meaning they are located inside the valve cover.
The PCVs that can be replaced should be replaced every 15 to 60 thousand miles depending on the make and engine you have.
Shop around for a better price than you paid, $12.00 is a little steep.
It stands for positive crankcase ventilation. And what they told u was right about replacing it. All it does is prevent condensation build up and burn fuel fimes that get by the rings. The condensation will build up and create sludge and that is a bad thing because it will block oil galleries and return holes and ur engine will run oil dry and it will be fried.
pos.crankcase vent keeps pressures even in your eng.returns fumes to the intake threw the air filter houseing.easy to check shake it if it rattles it should be good put it back
The answers are correct as to what it does, and how it is to be checked, though usually the "prescribed" way to check it is not just shaking, but trying to suck, or blow, air in both directions (it should be one-way).
However I have never heard of routinely replacing this item, and have known some cheapskates actually "revitalizing" them by spraying them with engine cleaner.
As to price, $9 is too cheap for a professional oil (and filter?) change, so they nailed you for the valve, by its cost, and probably by its need.
There isn't any free lunch.
buy one and keep it in your glove box. change it every other year. it is an emmission control device. it takes blow by and directs back to be used again. it is cheap insurance and prevents sludge. change it every time you get a tune up also change your airfilter out at the same time. If your airfilter is oil soaked, it probably due to a worn pcv valve. change the valve first then change the airfilter.
The PCV Valve, or Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve is an emission control device that routes unburned crankcase blowby gases back into the intake manifold where they can be reburned. The PCV system is one of the oldest emission control devices, and also one of the most beneficial. Besides totally eliminating crankcase emissions as a source of air pollution, the constant recirculation of air through the crankcase helps remove moisture which otherwise would cause sludge to form. Thus the PCV valve extends the life of the oil and engine. The PCV valve requires little maintenance. The valve and filter should be replaced somewhere around 30,000 to 50,000 miles(see the vehicle owners manual for service intervals).
PCV is an acronym for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. This valve is needed to relieve the pressure built up in the crankcase that is created by the heating of the air inside the engine. If this valve were not present and the pressure went unchecked, it would blow out the seals and gaskets inside your engine.
PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. This replaceable valve replaced the vent pipe on the engine, this got rid of the fumes and or pressure that builds up in the crankcase, nowadays the crankcase does not vent into the environment. with the PCV valve these fumes are returned to the intake manifold and are mixed in with the fuel intake stroke to be burned and so create a cleaner exhaust.Pcv valveI don't think a car has been built in the last 40 years that doesn't have a PCV valve. My 1965 Galaxie had one, but my 64 Ford pickup didn't. PCV means "Positive Crankcase Ventilation", in other words actively sucking junk out of the crankcase rather than just letting it be vented to the air.
The PCV valve allows unburned stuff that blows by the piston to be collected and re-burned rather than just vented to the air, without causing your engine to stall out at idle. This results in a serious reduction in air pollution at virtually no cost, which is why it was the first emissions control device employed.
Look on top of the valve cover. There should be a knob sticking out with a small diameter rubber hose attached to it. It will be inserted in a rubber grommet. You can just pull it out of the valve cover. If it's clogged it will be unnecessarily blowing junk into the air; if it's leaking, it will seriously foul up operation of your engine, especially at idle. They cost about two bucks and you can change it with your bare hands. Replace often. The book says 24000 miles/24 months. I always write the replacement date on them with a Sharpie so I can remember when I replaced it last.
remove the pass. finder linner and find plug to the motor and disconnect it
The PCV valve is on the right side of the engine compartment, if you're facing the front of the vehicle, just under the air intake hose. Its not directly on the engine but rather inline with the oil separator tube/hose.
A) To access this area and change the PCV valve just follow these directions. They aren't as complicated as they seem... # using a 5/16" socket, loosen and remove the positive side cable of the battery.
# using a 5/16" socket or nut driver, loosen the worm drive clamp that holds the breather hose onto the manifold.
# next unsnap the clamps that hold the breather hose to the air filter housing.
# noting their positions disconnect the 3 airlines that connect to the breather hose.
# disconnect the 2 electrical connections from the air intake hose. The front one is the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the back one is the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor, remove the air intake hose and set aside.
# now using a 5/16" socket remove the 2 screws holding the throttle cable cover.
# remove the 2 screws holding the throttle cable bracket. You now have the best access to the PCV valve. B) Now to replace the PCV valve pull the u shaped hose off the elbow. I recommend purchasing this molded new hose for about dollars from your Ford dealer. They tend to clog or collapse after several years. Next simply pull the PCV valve out of the oil separator hose and insert the new one. The whole process can be done in 15 to 30 minutes and save you a lot. C) Now just reinstall everything in reverse. The PCV valve is located on the drivers side, underneath the silver intake manifold. Follow the black accordion tube from the air cleaner to the throttle body valve. Place your hand on the bottom of the throttle body and you will find the PCV attached to two short rubber hoses. Hand access is limited, so you have to feel for the PCV and blindly remove the hoses from the PCV. Be patient, and allow time to finesse the new PCV onto both hoses. While you're at it, be sure to check the condition of the connecting hoses. I found one of mine to have totally collapsed on my 1998 DOHC v6. there is a pcv valve. it is located under the "snorkel" of the upper intake manifold. it is accessed by removing the vacuum line from the front valve cover at the rubber connector between the air filter housing and throttle body(swing out of the way, to the left is best). next remove the two screws that hold the throttle linkage cover in place and remove the cover. third remove the throttle return spring. you can now reach the pcv valve for removal and replacement. It's at the right rear corner (facing the engine), tightly underneath the throttle body. It is in-line in 1/2 inch or so diameter hoses - look for where the one of these hoses takes a 90 degree turn. 97 Merc sable, 12, valve, 3.0 liter, vulcan engine: located on top of intake manifold box, vertical position facing down. manafold box is on passsenger side, near firewall. horizontal hose extends to the right.
It is positioned in the valve cover.
Along the top of the valve cover - along the back side. It has a black tube between it and the intake manifold. It is a little black plastic piece in the shape of an "L".
Have to replace ECM on Hilux Diesel with second hand ECM,have toyota techstream scantool can you tell me as i suspect will have to link to imobiliser
There is no exact "dash kit" being made for the fj60 right now. The only options are either to retrofit a kit from a different vehicle, or custom fabricating your own out of plastic/wood/metal/fiberglass etc.
195 75r 14 :) i just bought some myself
Your intake plenum(big gray thing) has 6 bolts. 2 in the front 2 under the plenum cover(thing that says 5.0) and 2 in the back. locate the 2 in the font and on the exact opposite side in the back you will see the other two bolts. Just behind it you will see it. there will be a bunch of hoses follow the biggest hose and just pull it. it should come right off from PVC valve. to replace it I suggest removing the hood and using a pair of pliers to pull it from the grommet. if you can hear it rattle its good. you may also want to replace the crankcase filter if its clogged. use pliers and a long screw to remove it.
It's on the front valve cover. The trick is you have to first remove the "breather chamber" by removing the 2 bolts on top. With the breather chamber cover off, you'll see the PCV valve screwed into the valve cover.
Chilton's Manual 28622 page 4-29, middle and bottom diagrams on right side of page. Book title: Chilton, General Motors Full-Size trucks 1980-1987. It can be purchased at NAPA parts stores.
right behind the alternator on the truck and in the intake by the aac valve on a stanza ang axxess
i have a 1994 single cab short bed 2wd Toyota with a 2001 5.3L LT1 motor stuffed in it..as long as you have the correct motor mounts and wiring harness your ok...
THIS IS FOR A 1986 COROLLA 1.6LT FWD
1.drain radiator,(open radiator plug), remove aircleaner unit and disconnect all vacuum hoses that go with it (remember where they came from).
2. remove the top radiator hose.(loosen the 4 water pump pulley bolts do not remove them just yet as it is easier to do this with the belts still on)
3. loosen alternator and remove belt, loosen power stearing unit and remove belt also you will have to remove the bracket above the water pump that is the power stearing unit belt tensioning bracket.
4. prop up the right side of the engine on the oilpan lip (use soft wood)with a jack under it (oil pan lip is where the pan bolts onto the block from under neath).
5.remove the right hand engine mounting bolt and jack up the engine on the right side by approx 4 inches.
6.remove the 4 bolts that hold the water pump pulley and loosen the pulley off (you need do this to be able to remove the timing belt cover).
7 the timing belt cover on this model is split in half you only need to remove the rear half there are about 5 bolts you will need a 10mm socket for this.follow the timing belt cover and remove the necessary bolts.
8 remove the timing bbelt cover.. now you can see all the bolts for the water pump removal.. there should be 2x 10mm bolts and 1x12mm bolt behind the belt, and 3x10mm bolt and 2x12mm bolts around the rest of the pump. as you have already jacked the engine the pump should be easy to remove.
On the 3.1 and 3.8 L engines the lower intake manifold gasket is known to leak due to poor choice of gasket materials. This is evidenced by oil oin the coolant. It could also be a failed bypass line that is dripping coolant into the crankcase. Last it could be a cracked block , head or blown headgaslket. Further diagosis is neccessary. The LIM is not a tough job but if you don't have the tools get the job done by a mechanic. Make sure that the cooling system is also properly flushed and re-filled after the repair.
to low on antifrezze, or air cond. compressor locked or locking-up, to low on water& antifrezze mix in ratiator, or fan clutch out, fan belt slipping, try the antifrezze amount mixed first and make sure the fluid is circulating good ,if not water pump or stuck thermostat
The PCV valve on all fuel injected 5.0 Ford cars is in the center rear of the intake manifold. It is behind the intake plenum (upper intake manifold. When replacing it, be sure to replace the rubber grommet which will be hard and shrunken as well as the filter or screen under the grommet in the manifold. It will probably be stuck in there so you may need good pliers or a long screw to grab it and pull it out.
it has 3, one by your left foot (kick panel)
one under the hood right behind the battery
and the is a small box behind the glove box tha holds 2 or 3 fuses
you have to drop the gearbox from the engine or remove the engine itself and do.unbolt the univer joint at rear end drive shaft,pull shaft forward and down then pull out of transmis unbolt trans from cross member unbolt trans from engine,put jack under trans and unbolt cros member from frame pull trans away from engine an lower,unbolt pressure plate from fly wheel remove plate an clulth,use pilot shaft to alighn cluth to fly wheel re assembly
It is on the valve cover. on the firewall side to the right. (with you facing windshield) it is plastic, threaded in to the hole.
just unplug the connector going to the switch that is mounted on top of your brake pedal and hook up a jumper wire to jump the 2 terminals (on the connector side not on the switch side) this will allow you to start the truck without pushing in the clutch and without pushing the clutch start cancel button.
the power an winter mode switch gets corrosion an dirty.mostly from spilled drinks coffee cigerette ashes.causes a electrical short within the switch.just replace it with a new one
Nope 91 was the last year of that
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