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Look above the fuse cluster behind the left kick panel.

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My 1997 T100 is Fuel Injected. On the Passenger Side there are 3 black boxes that control the fuel/firing order. Each box contols 1 Passenger Side spark plug and 1 Driver Side plug. The boxes have small bolts. Remove them and store AWAY from engine. Pull box up and you will find the spark plug wire tube attached and the port for the plug. TWO things to remember: You will need a magnetic tool to remove loosened plugs and you can only buy Three plug wires (for the driver side). The passenger side requires a new box. Around $30.00 each. Mine are still going at 165,000 miles. This is great in not requiring a $2000.00 idiot CPU chip when the firing order goes bad like in American made cars. Lov my Toyota!

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Nope 91 was the last year of that

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Advancing the timing will not make the valves clatter, it will make the engine detonate if you're not running higher octane fuel! 5 degrees btdc is correct, and you can go as far as 3 degrees either way and still stay smog compliant (in California atleast) but advancing may cause detonation, which if left unchecked will cause severe damage to your engine!

look on underside of hood there is a sticker.

The timing on the 22re should be set at 5 DBTDC. It can be set ahead to 8 or 12 BDC if it doesnt cause the engines valves to "clatter" and "knock".

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first you have to pull the dash part from the radio. take off the vents off u will need them if ur installing an after market radio there should be 2 to 4 screws holding some tabs that hold the radio. then u have to take off the cables from the radio and if ur vehicle has an equalizer u have to take the cables of the equalizer so u can then put them to a wire harness kit and install to after market stereo

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the compressor is on the passenger's side of the motor under the van.

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Good question- I'm thinking of the same thing myself... The Perkins prima is based on the o-series, so theoretically it wouldn't be the most difficult swap. Both were used in the montego and sherpa vans. A sherpa van would be the easiest to raid- as its RWD. I'm also considering a 2.0 diesel from the Rover 400/45- 113bhp. It was based on the perkins, and fitted to the 400/600 series- as was the T series, which was a derivative of the o-series. You'd need a 2000 SD1 to start with, as the gear/axle ratios were different than the 6 and 8 cylinder models.

Good luck! -Brian

I agree with the above- at least one person has already done it, in the SD1 owners club. It would be easier to start with an sd1 2000, which used the O series engine on which the prima is based. The block is the same, so it will be a bolt in swap regarding engine mounts etc. You'd need to play about with the wiring and run a live to the fuel pump shut off plunger, also fabricate an exhaust downpipe. don't even consider using a non-turbo prima, it doesnt have the guts for such a heavy car.

I think the gearbox ratios in the petrol car may be unsuitable for the diesel engine although it will physically fit the engine. diesels do not like revving but produce lots of low down torque so tall ratios are needed.The 'box from an ldv 200 may be the way to go. additionally the rear axle ratio may not be suitable either, remember the diesel engine will be red lining at about 4000 rpm but at least one from a bigger engined sd1 will fit straight in. the ratio is the same on the 2.3, 2.6 and v8 models, only the 2000 had a lower ratio

Basically, all good info above, but... The Prima will rev a lot higher than 4000rpm how high varies with the source, some say 4500 others 5000. I have driven a Citroen XUD limited to 4250 and Maestro TD with no rev counter one after the other. The Prima revved much longer so I'm inclined to believe 5000+. The Prima can be easily tuned to 100BHP+ with an intercooler and fuel adjustment of the Bosch VE pump. The Prima is more about mid-range torque and has a wider power band than most engines of its era. Cold start is rough and noisy but a fuel heater helps, also a properly working crankcase breather helps refinement. It sounds like a different engine on Veggie with two tank conversion or Veggie mix. 50ish MPG.

On the weight issue remember the first Freelander with the Rover L-series engine? It was sluggish to drive and lacking in low end torque, even though it had been very competitive in lighter car applications, so it is important to compare the power and torque outputs with the original engine, especially how low the torque curve comes in on TDs, to get an idea of driveability. Modern variable nozzle turbos have almost got rid of turbo delay/lag. But they are more expensive.

Alternative engines:

LDV Pilot vans used NA XUDs and LT77 based R380 boxes. Could work with TD XUD tunable to 130BHP. Van box ratios might not work well in a SD1. Info is online. 40ish MPG.

VFM Rover L-series in RWD application has a problem of the IP being driven off the camshaft at the flywheel end of the engine. Google 'Pimp my Sherpa'.

Rover 'SD' 90's version is Bosch IP non-intercooled non-electronic. SDi has both - option of a RoverRon tuning box for £50ish. Tuning info online. Noughties 25/45 version is more complicated and data bus based. Possible 130 BHP 45+ MPG.

Alternatively, you could try BMW 325/525TDS - 143BHP, Vauxhall Omega - 129 BHP engine and or box - ECU coded to IP so you need both from the donor. 30s MPG.

Mercedes C250TD (cheap because of rust) the same engine as 190D 2.5 but with turbo. 150BHP. 30s MPG.

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Crawl under the truck and look. If it has one you will see it.

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The thermostat is located in the water pump behind the timing belt plate cover. the thermostat is in the bottom rad hoase where it conects to the motor.

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There could be a few reasons why your truck would stall like that. 1)Check your spark plugs and wires 2)Your mass air flow sensor may be dirty or going out and needs to be replaced 3)Check your butterfly valve and your intake manifold, they could be dirty or have alot of build ups. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with your spark plugs.

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If the panels are like the 95 and 96 models, you don't need to remove door panels....carefully pop the grill covers off the door panels...there is a speaker mount behind the grill...remove the 4 speaker screws and your done. Start with the top of the grill and pull gently downward. There are metal clips on the cover and plastic hooks to the side which all hold it in place. Slow and careful is the name of the game here.

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Idler Arm bushing are worn out is first thing that comes to mind. Don't forget about the steering rod recall for cracking on the older T-100's.

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Under the hood on the driver's side. It is NOT inside the cab, as I found out the hard way! G'luck!

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Changing the third brake light is fairly easy! Unscrew the 2 screws and you should be able to take the lense off. Once you've done that, there should be 3 little bulbs in there. The bulbs should just pull right out of the fixture!

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open the hood, look at the gray plastic piece of the lens inside under the hood. there's a clip there, stick a small screwdriver between the middle of the plastic clip, and pry it off. now stick a bigger screwdriver in from the headlight assembly, to the lens assembly, and pry it out. good luck

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If its the 3.4 V6 then it is to right side of Engine cooling fan/clutch. Drain the cooling system Dicsonnect any vacuum hoses on the thermostat housing if equipped Detach the housing from engine (fluid may leak out) leave radiator hose attached to housing (thier are 3 nuts that hold on the housing. Remove thermostat (note the direction it is installed) Install new gasket (clean up old gasket material first) Install the thermostat and housing (if thermostat has jiggle pin it must not be +or- 15degrees off from 12 o'clock position when installed) Tighten housing fastners 168inch pounds torque (3 nuts) confirm all hoses are reattached and clamps are tight refill with coolant and check for proper operation

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Check spark plug wires, distributor cap, and coil for cracks that let moisture in.

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How do I replace the Inigtor for corola Toyota 1993?

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You could do as the last guy suggested, which would be a good idea...BUT...in the case that you pull all these plugs out at on time, here are a few good ways to know what firing order they go in:

1. You can go off of the length of the wires. The wires only reach so far and non of them should be over stretched or dangling.

2. The cylinder's order is [5] [6] <---back of engine

[3] [4]

[1] [2] <---front of engine

3. Cylinder 1 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 4

Cylinder 3 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 6

Cylinder 5 ignition coil is ALWAYS connected to number 2

This is a funky order set up, but that is how it is on the 3.4L V6 engine of my 96 Toyota T100. Hopefully that helps.

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The flasher unit on T100 is located under the instrument panel, behind the lower left finish panel.

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NO it dose not the type-s has a different head on it then the base type .

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Trouble code P1300 means: Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1

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Break it down first. The "F" stands for the Type F Gasoline engine the switched to in 1954 from the original Type B. The "J" actually stands for jeep, which was a generic term for that style vehicle before it became a name brand. The first of its kind was the Toyota Jeep BJ, using the the Type B motor. The two digits that began to follow the FJ are specifying the series. It went: FJ, FJ-40, FJ-55 and 56, FJ-60, FJ-70(never made it to the states), FJ-80, FJ-100, and the FJ-200.