Check out www.fueleconomy.gov for yearly information on all US cars fuel ratings. Any hybrid car (Honda Insight, Toyota Prius) will have excellent fuel ratings. Also, turbo diesel engines by VW do very well. Both the VW New Bug and the VW Golf models with TDI engines get 42/49 for the last few years.
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Hybrids have been proven to get poorer fuel economy than diesels in "real world" operation, especially in the relatively flat interior of Australia. Petrol hybrids are "in their element" in the cut and thrust of city driving, not on the open road.
I just reset a 04 Toyota RAV 4 with the same method as I saw used on a Honda.
1) Press and hold in the trip/odometer stick where the mileage is displayed (near speedometer).
2) Turn the key and wait for about 5 seconds... light goes out (as long as nothing else is wrong I assume)
3) Don't forget to change oil!!!
If there's no leak, an overheat is caused by a problem with coolant level, coolant circulation, or heat transfer. Fill the coolant level. If the problem recurs within a month, it was something other than low level. Circulation problems are caused by clogged radiators, bad water pumps, non-functioning thermostats.
The Correct Tire Size of the 2001 Toyota Echo is as follows:
175/65/R14 both front and back
a good rule of thumb for those buying new tires for 2001 Toyota Echo Cars is this.. make sure when you buy tires, all 4 tread styles match, if you mix and match the treads and they arent the same, there might be an inbalance and the car may wobble or weave when driving..
i know from first hand experience with my own 2001 Toyote Echo that i have owned from new with only 114 miles on the car.
I'm not sure, don't have a hatchback, but look in the passenger side corner of the hatch close to the rear of the car, with the non-hatchback model, there is a somewhat hidden compartment there with a cover that can be removed by pulling, this is where the jack is. I'm sure a lot of people think they don't have a jack when they need it because they don't know about the hidden compartment.
i have a2005 hatchback end the jack is under the driver seat hiden by a plastic cover
There is a fusebox inside the car on the driver's side under the dash (near where the driver's left knee would be if driving the car). Look for the 15amp fuse in this box.
In the fuse box under the dash it is on the first row on the left it will be the second fuse down. this controls the clock, radio, outside rear view mirror system, cigarette lighter. 15 amp
If the car already has one, it should be on the front of the motor underneath the exhaust manifold....look for the electrical cord. If there isn't one, you can install one in the frost plug on the side of the block or put an "in-line heater" in the radiator hose (much easier option).
Its not too hard to change them, see related link (pictures are gone, but directions remain).
You will need to plug into the car's OBD II connector and scan vehicle's computer for codes.
Now, repair the problem that caused the light to come on, then clear the computer system.
If the repair is successful, the light will stay off. Otherwise, it will come back on again after some driving interval.
You can buy cheap code readers on eBay - they will give you the codes and reset the computer (turning off the check engine light). You can take the code and look it up on the internet to see what it means and find help for fixing problems. If the problem is not fixed, the light will come back on.
Also, you could: "disconnect the negative battery connection. Press your brake pedal down for 10 seconds. Reattach your negative battery connection. The computer will be reset." It worked for me. After changing my spark plugs my check engine light was still on, then after doing this my check engine light went off.
There are three plugs in the back of an Echo radio. Before I blew the fuse, this is what I had figured out. The black one, of course, is the antenna. The other two plugs are white(5 wires) and blue(8 wires). The white plug is mainly speaker wires. The blue plug has speaker wires and the power and ground wires. White plug: Black and Gold wires --- right speaker(not sure front or back) Red and White wires --- left speaker(not sure front or back) (Not sure about the white/green striped wire) Blue plug: Purple and Pink wires --- speaker(not sure L or R, front or back) Green and teal wires --- speaker(not sure L or R, front or back) (Not sure about the green wire) Power in blue plug: Grey wire --- Main power(thru ignition) Teal/yellow striped wire --- Accesary power(constant for stations or clock, etc...) White/black striped wire --- Ground That's the wiring, now if anyone can tell me where the fuse is, I would be ever so appreciative. White Plug: Black and yellow wires are left rear speaker, red and white are right rear speaker, green and white are part of the interior lights system.(I recommend not touching thoughs as it will break the circuit and the interior dash lights won't work at all) Blue Plug: green and blue are left front speaker, pink and violet are left front tweeter speaker (on 6 speaker systems), then the other two blue and green, one is right front and the other is right front tweeter speaker (on six speaker system.
A door isn't shut all the way or door closed sensor is not functioning properly?
You can jack from the sides, just behind the front tires (or in front of the rear tires) you will see two half circle notches in the metal frame, these are jack points, but if you have a suitable floor jack, its better to use the jack points on the bottom of the car (I've seen slight damage to the frame from jacking from the side, because the metal tabs can bend). The jack points on the bottom of the echo: FRONT - this one can be hard to find at first, look for the square slightly towards the drivers side about 3 feet back from the front of the car, there is nothing else under that that looks like a jack point, so you should be able to spot it. REAR - this one is easy to find, its a square right in the middle, all the way towards the back. Unfortunately many normal sized, inexpensive floor jacks will have a hard time reaching the front jack point while still giving you enough clearance to jack the car up.
The best article I've read on the web concerning 4-stroke engine break in, can be found here: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
engine break in is very important, proper break in will help ensure long engine life.
For 1500 extra I think I'd rather go with the 2003. But you may be able to find a better price (?). I bought a 2002 with 38,000 miles on it for $5500 USD in 2005. Then again, fuel efficient cars are more popular now than they were a couple years ago in my area.
I have an Automatic 2001 Echo. I was advised by my local Toyota dealer that this model comes with a timing chain, and not a belt. The chain does not require replacement. If you are hearing belt noises, it is likely coming from the alternator belt, which is relatively cheap to replace (CAD105 incl. parts and labour at the dealership)AnswerIf you were told that the Echo has a timing belt by the dealer / mechanic, I'd look for another mechanic. The Echo's were chain operated (as mentioned by the previous author). If you're concerned about whether or not your vehicle is out of time, here's how you can check:
Removing and inspecting the timing chain is a major job! You nearly have to take the front half of the motor apart just to get to the chain (you'll have to remove the engine mounting bracket, the cylinder head cover, the timing chain cover, the water pump, the alternator, the power steering pump, and finally...the chain (plus a few other parts). The only jobworse than replacing the timing chain for this car, is replacing the cylinder head (as you nearly have to take the entire engine apart).
The filter is located in the fuel tank. You do not need to drop the gas tank from the car; however, this is a major job, so be very patient (the first time you do it could take 3-4 hours). Here's what you'll need to do if you really need to replace the fuel filter:
1. First, make certain that you've got a bad filter. These filters typically last for many years, and are designed to last a very long time. Perform an engine diagnostics test using a Toyota hand tester into the DLC3 socket (an outlet to plug the tester into, that's located under the steering wheel). This is just to see if your fuel pump isn't the culprit.
2. Now to remove the fuel pump to get to the fuel filter (if you've determined it's most likely the fuel filter and not the pump). Remove the rear seat cushion, then remove the floor service hole cover. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery. Sparks, flames, and lit cigarettes wouldn't exactly be the best things to be exposed to at this time.
3. Disconnect the fuel pump and the sender gauge connection.
4. Disconnect the fuel tube.
5. Wash away the mud, dust and the likes on the fuel suction plate with water.
6. Pull off the tube joint clip form the fuel suction plate.
7. Disconnect the fuel tube from the fuel pump assembly.
8. Affix the tape in order to protect the port portion from the dust and elements. Blue painters tape would be best, as its not loaded with so much adhesive that might cause contamination.
9. Prevent the disconnected fuel tube from damaging and mixing foreign objects by covering them with a vinyl bag.
10. Remove the fuel pump from the gas tank.
10.1 Remove the 8 bolts and fuel tank vent tube set plate.
11. Pull fuel pump out of the tank
11.1 Caution - Do not damage the fuel pump filter.
11.2 Caution - Be careful not to bend or damage the arm of the sender gauge, remove with care. Damage to either of these items will be expensive to replace, and its easy to damage these items.
12. Remove the gasket from the pump assembly.
13. With the fuel pump removed: Remove the # 2 fuel suction support.
13.1 Using a small screwdriver, remove the No. 2 fuel suction support.
13.2 Remove the rubber cushion and fuel pressure regulator.
13.3 Remove the O-ring from the pressure regulator.
14. Remove the # 1 fuel suction support.
14.1 Disconnect the fuel sender gauge connector.
14.2 Using a small screwdriver, remove the No. 1 fuel suction support. Caution - Do not damage the fuel suction support and fuel suction plate.
14.3 Disconnect the fuel pump harness from the fuel pump.
14.4 Remove the O-ring from the No. 1 fuel suction support.
15. Remove the vapor pressure sensor. Pull off the joint clip and remove the vapor pressure sensor from No. 1 fuel suction support.
16. Remove the fuel filter
16.1 Remove the fuel pump from the fuel filter.
16.2 Remove the O-ring from the fuel pump.
Go get yourself a case of beer and enjoy it. You'll need the rest when you attempt to put everything back together.
It is very helpful to use the pictures from the shop manual for this job. Also in my opinion you should never replace ONLY the pump or filter, you should replace them together. If you go to all the trouble of pulling the assembly out, it just makes sense to change them both at the same time as it will not add any time to the job and the cost is minimal. You can find both the pump and the filter for about $20 each including shipping, on eBay (check seller feedback to make sure they have favorable reviews).
The maintenance manual that came with the car tells how often (probably every 60-100K).
The capacity of the manual transaxle is: 1.9 liters (2.0 US qts, 1.7 Imp. qts) using API oil grade GL-4 or GL-5, SAE 75W-90 differential oil (the stuff has an awful smell to it). If you don't know how much oil you've got in the transmission, you want to make sure that the level is about 0 - 5 mm (0 - 0.02 in.) from the edge of the filler plug (almost visually full). I wouldn't change the oil as frequently as the author above mentioned, but that's a personal preference thing I suppose.
The MAF sensor is located on top of the air box, the black plastic box on the right side of the engine. (If you're facing the car.) It is held in place by two little screws and has a wire harness clipped to it. If your check engine light is on and your car hesitates especially when cold, your MAF sensor may very well need a good cleaning. You will do so by using a spray can of break or carb cleaner. On the bottom of the MAF sensor, you will notice a deep hole in the bottom of which are two little wires. You might have to use a flashlight to see them especially if they are actually dirty. Spray some cleaner down that hole until the wires become shiny and, if available, also shoot mildly with compressed air to dry and completely flush out dirt. Reinstall unit and if you notice improvement on performance, you will likely see your check engine light go off in the next drive cycle.
Guys, let me tell you that this worked great. It fixed my problem right away. My car was running bad (like in 3 cylinder's I did this plus removing the negative pole on the battery and it cleared the check engine.
Thanks, to the person that wrote this......
It doesn't have a timing belt to replace. Echo's have a timing chain (one of many great features for this car). The chain has no replacement interval, and should only be replaced if there is a problem (for example if it is making a lot of noise). There are two serpentine belts, one controls power steering and air conditioning, the other controls the water pump and alternator. The later one is on top, and is somewhat easy to replace yourself for just a couple of dollars. It can be inspected for wear (excessive cracking), the alternator bolt can be loosened and alternator pushed back (not removed) to change this belt. I don't know the official change interval, but I replaced mine at 150,000 miles but it was still in good condition actually. The other (lower) belt is more difficult to change on your own, and I wouldn't bother replacing it until there is a problem, as power steering and air conditioning are not critical. Never. The Toyota Echo doesn't have a timing belt. It has a timing chain which should last the life of the car.
Yes, all cigarette lighters are protected by a fuse. It may be using the radio fuse.
the filter is inside the fuel tank. it is a lifetime filter and should only be replaced by a trained technician if you suspect you got dirty gas from the station. You must remove the negative terminal from the battery, and remove the rear seat to access the filter. under the rear seat is a black metal plate. if it has screws, remove them if on screws, pry it up with a screwdriver. careful with the wires. Once you remove the 8mm bolts for the fuel pump, remove it carefully not to bend or break the sender. after that, you will see the filter and where is seperates from the pump. Once again, I strongly recommend a trained technician do the job, and only if you think you got dirty gas. good luck.
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