in the engine in the underhood fuxe box near the motor
I concur with the 5 minute solution mentioned above. I own a 2002 Honda CR-V, and it wasn't hard at all to access. As a matter of fact, it was easier to replace the driver side more so than the passenger side for me. There is a metal clip that is referred to as the "Hold down wire" in the previous answer below. That's a misleading term and is confusing. It's a clip that swings across the back and holds the bulb in place(see related links below). Looking from the back of the bulb, the clip has a curved end on the right side that serves as a "handle". Just push down slightly and back and let it spring free. The clip should then swing back (like a door). Also, my first lamp was snug, but came out real easy. The second lamp was real loose and I almost pulled it out, accidentally. So, just be aware that the secureness of the bulb varies. I found a YouTube video that was excellent in demonstrating the procedure and posted it in the related links below. I have also posted a diagram of the bulb replacement in the related links as well. Just be patient and don't be intimidated. It's easy.
A little clarification to the original answer.
It's really tight, you can't really see what you're doing so it involves a lot of feeling around. I found that you can see how everything connects a little easier on the passenger side, but it's just unhook wiring - pull off rubber, push over the spring clip, pull out the bulb out of it's connector, put in the new bulb in the connector, slide it back into the headlight unit, snap in the metal spring, put back on the rubber gasket, and plug in the electrical connection.
I just replaced the bulb on my 2000 CRV and it was not tight at all. You can see the back of the headlights when you open the hood. This may be a more difficult task on a newer CRV, but on the original body style don't be afraid to take this on. Also, the owners manual has a good picture with the instructions.
One very important reminder . DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB. The oils on your skin will cause the bulb to fail very quickly.
The Honda Dealership removed the entire headlamp to replace the bulb. they asked for $100.00 until I blew a gasket in the repair shop.
It is very hard to see anything the way this is designed and the two above make it sound as if getting the pin unlatched and re latched is a snap however when the dealership admits that it is a horribly inadequate design so much so that removing the entire headlamp is easier then you know it is a terrible design.
So while they are technically correct in their procedure most people will not be finishing this task in 10 minutes. The first two steps are a breeze, getting that pin off when you can't see it is bad enough but getting it back on when you can't see then you must have incredible patience.
I spent over three hours replacing a head light bulb on a 2006 Honda CR-V. That is actual labor time, not including researching how to do it in the owner's manual and on the Internet, and it does not include retrieving a dropped bulb. Based on my experience I would like to add some details to the guidance I found on this site and the instructions in the owners manual. I would also like to express my appreciation to those that contributed information on this challenging problem.
1 - The electrical connector at the rear of the bulb is not easily "pulled straight back" as described in the owner's manual. The prongs of the bulb holder seemed to have been greased by the manufacturer so subsequent removals of the connector may be even more difficult, but my fingers were not strong enough hold the connector and pull it off the prongs of the bulb holder. However, there is a groove between the edged of the connector and the bulb holder, into which I was able to insert a small flat blade screwdriver and thereby pry the connector loose. American Grease Products (AGS) makes a product called "Bulb Grease" that's available online and in most auto stores for under $2 that will allow you to re-grease the electrical connection, improving bulb performance and making future replacements easier.
2 - The directions in the owner's manual notwithstanding, the rubber weather seal will not "pull" off no matter how hard you pull on the tab(s). IF, repeat if, you have a pair of pliers that you can maneuver into the limited space, you might be able to tear a tab off. I recommend that one use a pair of worn (so there are no sharp edges) flat blade screwdrivers. Using the surrounding plastic round frame, use the blades of the screwdrivers to push the outer ring of the rubber boot towards the rear of the vehicle. Once a third of the boot is peeled back it is easy to pull the boot off with or without using the tabs.
3 - The infamous hold-down wire is latched in place by means of it being routed through a slot near the bulb holder base. The slot opening is slightly closer to the front of the vehicle than the inner end of the slot. Therefore, while difficult nevertheless, it helps to push the upper end of the hold-down wire both towards the open end of the slot and towards the front of the vehicle to pop it out of the slot. The end of the hold-down wire is bent in the shape of a triangle. The point of the triangle that is not on the side of the triangle that is parallel to the side of the vehicle, e.g. the end of the triangle where the triangle is "open" because it is formed by the end of the wire, "points" in the direction the hold-down wire must be moved to get it out of the slot. As you cannot see or feel the slot, this triangle is the only indication available as to in which direction the wire needs to be moved.
4 - What no one, Honda or prior entries, has stated is that there is a top and bottom to the bulb. While the rectangular base of the bulb will pass through the rectangular opening in the headlight housing as long as the long sides of the base are vertical, put in one way the bulb will not seat. Note carefully that there is a dimple on one side of the rectangular base mid-way along a long edge and a dimple on the other side of the rectangular base that is not-mid way along the side. These dimples keep the bulb from seating when the bulb is installed "upside down." The bulb is "right side up" when the flat on the round bulb base is in a 5 o'clock position (down and to your right) when you are viewing the bulb assembly from the end that will be towards on-coming traffic. In this position the dimple that is not centered along the rectangular side of the bulb is up and to your right. I am not certain that it matters because the bulb holder appears to be entirely symmetrical, but when I was finally successful in installing the bulb off-center dimple was on the side of the bulb holder that had the red tinted prong and I had noted that the red tinted prong was located towards the left side of the vehicle when I first removed the bulb.
5 - To clip the hold-down wire back in place push the tip of the hold-down wire towards the bulb (towards the "flat" side of the triangle, then towards the front of the vehicle, then towards the open end of the triangle and then back towards the flat end of the triangle e.g. back towards the bulb. After many tries to latch the hold-down wire in place, I got it latched on the second attempt by following these steps.
6 - The hold-down wire can be bent. I don't advise using needle nosed pliers or screw drivers to maneuver the wire. I think it could be bent. Myself, I don't have a triangle any more; the end of my hold-down wire is now a square with one open side because I grasp the wire with needle nosed pliers.
7 - Be careful to not drop the bulb and bulb holder into the engine compartment.
8 - Replacement of bulbs on the left side of the vehicle is considerably easier if you remove the battery. You can even see what you are doing with the battery out of the way. I removed the battery and a left side bulb as a way to learn what bulb removal involved before I was able to successfully replace a bulb on the right side. Once I knew what I was doing I dropped the bulb in the bulb holder assembly and it lodged under the wire bundles that are tacked to the sheet metal at bumper level. VERY long needle nosed pliers or a wife with slender fingers are invaluable at this point.
I found the above instruction very helpful. I succeeded, eventually! First time it took about 20min to replace the passenger's side and a weekend (many attempts) to replace the driver's side. I've just replaced the passenger's side again (after a year) and it took 5min. All I would add is: practice replacing the hold-down wire without the new bulb in place. Also, a plaster on the tip of your finger helps, although it doesn't require too much pressure. A little practice goes a long way!
About the first answer:
I too was able to change both my headlights in about 10 minutes and I have fairly large hands. My CRV is a 2004 and I suspect the newer models might be more difficult. I wore cotton gloves and had clean paper towel and alcohol on hand. I think I did it without touching the bulb to anything, so I didn't need to clean the bulb.
Another add-on for this:
1. One side is usually easier to access (the engine bay is not entirely symmetrical). Start with this side to become familiar with the clips and plugs involved.
2. NEVER touch the glass bulb. Finger prints leave oil residue that an cause your bulb to burn out pre-maturely and and/or shatter in your headlamp housing.
I too had difficulty getting the bulb to align properly and also to get that wire clip back in place. I have large hands and it seemed I became a contortionist to finally get everything back in place.
My first suggestion is to get a mirror and look at the installation of the bulb holder after removing the plug and weather boot. It gives you a good idea on what it looks like installed.
The idea about practicing with the wire clip prior to reinstalling the bulb and holder is great. Try it several times and remember how it goes.
One additional not on my experience. After reinstalling, the headlight was dim. Also, when I hit the brights, I lost both the new headlight bulb and the additional headlamp on that same side. This didn't make any sense so I checked the 20amp fuse for the passenger side headlight and it was blown. I replaced it and now all is well. It seems kind of odd, but apparently there is more than one circuit supplying voltage to the headlight.
The CR-V mentioned in this article uses an H4 bulb with 3-prong metal base. Not all bulbs use this type of connector, but the instructions are similar for most car/truck/suv headlight installations.
Lastly, good luck!
This was on my 1998 Corolla, but the procedure should be the same. You must remove the center console to get at the burned out bulb. This can be tricky because Toyota doesn't make it easy to access this area. First, open up the stoage compartment in the console. Remove the little square of carpet and you will find two bolts. Removing them. Next, there is one screw on each side of the console, near the base. Remove these. Carefully remove the console. Pull rearward and lift the back up and ease it over the emergency brake handle. Once the console is removed, you will be able to see the back of the shifter housing. YOu will see a wire running up to the underside of the shifter console. Follow this wire until you find the black socket holding the bulb. By turning this a quarter to a half turn counter-clockwise, the socket should pull down and the bulb can be pulled out. The bulb is "bayonet-style"---it just plugs in and pulls out. If you have trouble reaching in with your fingers, try using a small wrench to turn the socket. Alternatively, you can very carefully use a pair of needlenose pliers to turn the bulb socket. The hardest part is trying to get the bulb socket to seat back into the shifter console. If this doesn't work, let me know and I will try to guide you through another process.
I just replaced the light bulb on the automatic gear shift of my 1997 Toyoto Corolla. I believe 1993-1997 Corollas are very similar.
1. Lift the little carpet in the console rear to the automatic gear shift. Pry with a small flat screwdriver will do the job.
2. Remove the three Philips head screws.
3. Remove one Philips head screws on each side of the rear console, they are located at the bottom front of the rear console panel. You may have to move the driver and passenger seat back to see the screws.
4. Grab the back of the rear console and gently wiggle, pull backward and lift upward. Pull the hand brake so it is easier to remove the loosened rear console panel.
5. Use a flat head screwdriver to pry the rectangular 'cushion' around the automatic gear shift. Gently pry at various spot and the rectangular 'cushion' will come off easily.
6. Now you are just one more plastic cover away from the burned bulb. The plastic cover that has those 'P'ark, 'R'everse, 'D'rive letters is held in place by four snap on latches. Use a small flat head screwdriver and gently push the black latches inward in a downward motion, once the screwdriver head gets inside the grey latch holder it will free the black latch. Work on each of the four latches in turn.
7. Wiggle the plastic cover until it is completely loosened from the four latches. Gently lift the plastic cover up. The automatic gear shift will stop the plastic from being lifted out completely. You still have enough room to work with. You will see the little burned bulb directly below those 'P'ark, 'R'everse, 'D'rive letters. Gently pull the bulb out. I got my replacement bulb at Canadian Tire, Motomaster instrument replacement bulb 194LL (clear, long lasting, 2 bulbs for $2.99Cdn). It is a push-on bulb.
8. Test the bulb by starting your car and dash lights.
9. Snap back the plastic 'P'ark, 'D'rive cover. Put back the rear console panel and finally the rectangular 'cushion' around the automatic gear shift.
The 2007 Honda CR-V takes a 26" drivers side, 17" passenger side and a fairly specialized 14" rear wiper that is difficult to find in the stores. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are currently over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.
Open the rear glass hatch which will expose the sheet metal screws securing the plastic lens housing to the rear pillar. Unscrew them - carefully pull the lens housing away from the pillar noting the electrical wires that run to the sockets in the rear of the lens housing. Carefully turn the sockets approximately 1/4 turn and remove the sockets exposing the bulbs. Change the burnt out bulbs and re-install everything in the reverse order of removal.
The dashboard light with an exclamation mark Honda CR-V (2007-) can mean 2 things:
1. If the exclamation mark is "in a triangle" it is "VSA activation indicator" and it comes on, when the VSA is turned OFF by using the VSA OFF switch, or the VSA function is lost.
2. If the exclamation mark is in a semi-circle it is "The low pressure indicator" and means you have to inflate your tires to a recommended pressure.
http:/www.autotoys.com/New_Tech/DIY/CRV_RADIO/crv_radio.htm In order to remove the radio you have to remove the entire center console. Remove the bottom change holder, remove the ash tray, pull off the plastic housing under the glove box and the steering column (just enough to see the screws/bolts holding the center console in). There is also a bolt behind the radio (reach up and behind) that has to be removed. The tray under the radio is attached to the radio mounting bracket.
I would seriously recommend a professional do this (not for amateur garage enthusiasts Open the storage box immediately below the radio and air vents (above the A/C controls). In the back of the box remove the small access door using 2 thin flathead screwdrivers inserted in the slots at the top of the access door. Remove the screw behind the access door with a Phillips screwdriver. Pulling gently on the box door, pop the entire box away from the console (there are 2 attachments on either side of the box that will pop free). Remove the 2 Phillips screws from underneath the air vents. Gently pry the entire casing from around the radio by pulling straight out on the air vents. The emergency flasher button is connected by a cord which can be unplugged. Unscrew the 4 Phillips screws holding the radio in place and pull the radio straight out and slightly up (there are bolt heads on the sides of the radio that must clear the plastic, so angle up slightly). The 2003 radio is very easy to access. The hardest part was popping off the plastic faces because I was worried about breaking off the box door and couldn't hold onto much when removing the vent panel, but an amateur could easily do this.
Under the floor of the rear cargo compartment. Lift up the mat or rug - lift the floor panel - remove the collapisible table and it is all underneath that area.
It's on the left rear of the engine above the axle. You can get to it without ramps if you crank the wheel all the way to the left and shimmy under there. (I could do it and I have a gut.) You reach through and grab onto it with your hand and you can wiggle it loose. If it's too tight or too greasy, use a piece of sandpaper or a rubber kitchen glove for grip. Git-R-Done!
The 2003-05 Accord 4cyl has a timing chain. The 2003-05 V6 has a timing belt.
I own a 2002 CR-V, 4 cyl. It has a timing chain. The '03 is out of the same series so I would assume it also has a chain. But, to be sure, call a dealer's service department and ask them. They'll know right away.
As long as the brake drum is just covering the brakes like normal, just hit it with a rubber hammer (or regular hammer, just don't do much damage) and rotate it slowly using the beating affect, until it comes loose, and pull it off.
If the drum is seized to the center hub, there is a way to gently force it off. Drilled through the drum are two threaded holes, within the bolt circle and 180 degrees from each other across the hub. Thread a bolt into each of these, 12mm X 20 threads/inch X 1.5 inches long. Start threading one of them in, and when you encounter resistance, go to the other. They are bottomed out on the wheel hub and forcing the brake drum away from it. Now tighten down on them alternately until you hear the brake drum come loose. You probably have to tighten both bolts until you hear it break loose both sides. Then it slides right off. If you don't have a couple of 12mm bolts handy, borrow the ones out of the bracket on the front of the exhaust manifold. They fit perfectly.
Actually, it might depend on which trim you have, I have the HX and had to remove my rear drum today. You have to carefully pry the center cap off, then you will see a large nut, this may or may not be held in place with a keeper pin. It should take a 1 and 1/4" socket to remove the nut, then the drum and hub will pull off the spindle.
I have a 1998 Honda CRV. Under the Hood of the Car is a Fuse-Box. (Different Fuse-Box than Inside the Car) This Fuse-Box has a Lid. Under this Lid is the Radio Code. Therefore, lift the Lid off Completely and the Code is underside of this Lid. Good Luck!
You Got Lucky... Most radio stickers are installed by the PDI Tech. and are not put in the same place. If you can't find your code or code card your will need to remove the radio write down the serial number and take it to your dealer to get the unlock code.
Mine was inside the lid of the interior fuse box.
I got a tip from a dealer service person that if you turn on the ignition, then hold down the 1 and 6 buttons, then turn on the power to the radio, you may get the passcode displayed. This didn't work for me and I tried disconnecting the battery to clear an error msg. on the radio. Maybe you have to hold down 1 and 6, THEN turn on the ignition and THEN turn on power to radio. I have a 2000 CRV.
The code for my Honda CRV was in the glove box (a sticker inside)
try www.kmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000320.pdf . follow instructions to replace mirror because you need to remove door panel to replace mirror.
Could be several things the most common of which is usually failure to sufficiently tighten the gas cap after putting fuel in the tank. Make sure the gas cap is tightly secure adn then drive for a day or two to see if the emissisons light doesn't re-set itself. If not, there are several toher (more expensive) things to consider. The Oxygen Sensor(s) which sample the air and exhaust, and the possibility that the catalytic converter needs replacement.
I have a 2002 and I don't think the 2003 is much different. It's the easiest thing in the world to install and the kit was only around $80 and that was air shipped from japan. You just get a little green module about the size of a pager and 2 remotes in a box. In the center console in the dash, where the caddy is, that little pocket actually comes out after removing a few screws to reveal the wiring of the car behind it. (The instruction manual that comes with the kit has pictures of how to do this.) You simply clip the module to a matching colored plug, replace the console panel and your done. I used the manufacturers kit to do this and it took me about 15 minutes total to complete (and I'm a girl). I'm not sure it's the same with an aftermarket kit. Good Luck!
Usually the code is in the glove compartment, either as a separate card or a white sticker inside your owners manual. Or so I was lead to believe. Apparently this policy is not uniform throughout Honda from year to year because I bought a new car, accidently ran out the battery, and there was no card to be found. However, I got a jump and took it to the Honda dealer. They looked at my info to make sure it was my car, and wrote down the code on some paper which I now keep handy. They did this for free, so don't let anyone tell you that you need to pay for this service or remove the radio. Honda dealers can just look it up on their site.
Thanks to Rich (Honda Civic). The same procedure applied to CRV 2003.
1) Put the key in the ignition without turning.
2) Press and hold the odomoter reset button while turning the ignition key.
3) Turn the ignition key to the on position where the 'Maint Req' light appears on the instrument panel without starting the car, continuing to hold the reset button.
4) Hold the reset button until the light goes out - approx. 10 seconds.
I tried it, and it worked. This worked for me as well! (Morseman21 - 3-17-2008)
I did it, it also works on Odyssey 2003 (oct '08)
Just to elaborate a little more on the "Maintenance Required" light and why it goes on, here is the information straight from the manual:
Begin Quote "Maintenance Required Indicator-
This indicator reminds you that it is time to take your vehicle in for scheduled maintenance. Refer to the Maintenance Schedules for Normal and Severe Driving Conditions on pages 238-242.
For the first 8,000 miles (12,800 km) after the Maintenance Required Indicator is reset, it will come on for two seconds when you turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
Between 8,000 miles (12,800 km) and 10,000 miles (16,000 km), this indicator will light for two seconds when you first turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then flash for ten seconds.
If you exceed 10,000 thousand miles (16,000 km) without having the scheduled maintenance performed, this indicator will remain on as a constant reminder." End Quote.
As long as you are performing routine maintenance such as oil changes including changing the filter, overall engine fluid monitoring (i.e. coolant, brake fluid, clutch fluid, washer fluid, automatic transmission fluid, ect.), tire rotation, visual brake inspection, emergency brake maintenance (tightening it up and visual inspection), air filter changes and so on, there really is no reason to take your car into the dealer to pay large sums of money for work that can be done at home or at a cheaper qualified mechanic.Hope this helps.
This really worked like magic on my 99 Honda Accord. Awesome! thanks guys :)
thankssss this workssss like magic it disappereard when i hold it for 10 secs thanksssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss a whole bunch i was gonna et ready to pay 100 dollars
Thank you so much...it worked perfectly...prytani
Happy to help with this one; it's easy. You'll need a stereo mini adaptor cable - specifically a "stereo 1/8" mini male to male adaptor cable." I purchased a 4-foot version rather than the more-common 6-foot version to keep the coil more manageable. I picked up the Monster Standard Interconnect Cable [SMIN-IL4] at an auto stereo installation shop, but you should be able to find the mini adaptor cables pretty readily for $10 or less at any A/V supplier. By the way, there's no need to seek out Monster's higher-end, gold-plated offerings. Their "standard construction" line works fine and is far less expensive. Once you have the cable in hand, you'll need to located the AUX jack. Some models have the jack (which looks like a standard iPod headphone jack) on the faceplate of the radio itself; others have the jack in the center console. The center console has a cover that slides back to reveal a compartment. On the front interior of the compartment, there's a power supply connection for cigarette lighter-size adaptors. Next to that is the AUX jack. Both connections have a hinged cover that flips up for access. Plug one end of the mini adapter into the AUX jack. Plug the other end of the mini adaptor into your iPod headphone jack. Make sure your iPod is on. Make sure your CR-V's radio is turned on. Push the CD/AUX button on the radio face. It'll cycle from the CD changer display to an "AUX" display. Push the "play" button on the iPod. **Note that shifting from CD to AUX re-sets the volume to zero, just as the built-in Bluetooth pairing does. You'll need to turn up the volume on the CR-V radio to hear the iPod's output. The volume level on the iPod itself may also affect the output volume, so be sure the iPod's volume isn't set to zero if you're not hearing sound from the CR-V speakers. Also note that you *cannot* control the iPod's functions via the steering wheel with the AUX jack and this configuration. You'll need to make any adjustments other than volume with the iPod's controls. As a driver in Los Angeles, where people are already drive distracted and/or generally like idiots anyway, I'll suggest that people refrain from fooling with the iPod controls while in motion... Tim Elliott
Hi, I am also searching for such answer. My 97 crv keeps leaking oil from the engine. 2 days ago I have an oil changed in a local mechanic shop. They noticed the problem too and I was quoted $260 for fixing it by changing a new valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and a drain plug, of course, including labor charge. I didn't expect to pay close to $300 to solve this problem in a regular oil change visit. So I took the checklist they gave me and quoted the price for the parts I need from Autoadvance, end up to be $140 something. With the help of my friend who loves fixing car, hopefully this is all I need to pay to fix the oil leaking.
2) I had my oil pan gasket replaced in Long Beach, CA in December of '06. The oil pan gasket cost $10, if purchased from an after market auto parts store, the repair shop charged $25. It was $100 for the labor and that was after haggling them down to that amount. I too was shocked it was going to be so much to have it replaced.
3) I just spent 5 hours changing out the oil pan gasket on my '84 Landcrusier. I have to say that it was a terrible experience. Pay the $100 dollars! It will be well worth it. I'll give you a run down: 1. Drain the oil (easy) 2. pull the oil pan off (not so easy) 3. Clean the oil pan gasket area from the pan and the engine block (easy but time consuming) 4. Put sealant on the engine block and hold the gasket up to the block until it holds (not so easy) 5. Put sealant on the oil pan and mount (you'll swear alot on this step) 6. Put all the bolts back in and torque to spec (not so easy unless you have an unrestricted path to the bolts) 7. Drink alcohol to unwind.
4)I replaced a valve cover gasket on a 1996 Honda Odyssey which would be the equivalent job as on a 97 CRV. It is about the easiest gasket job you can do for this vehicle. A rubber gasket should not cost more than $25-$35 at a local auto parts store. They are simple to install since you do not use any sealant with this type. You just remove the bolts and gently pry it off. Clean up the mating surfaces really good. Line up the new gasket and valve cover then put the bolts back in and torque them to specs. It's an hour job with clean up for a DIY. I've not done the oil pan gasket but have looked at it under a 1998 CRV. This looks a little bit harder since you have the engine shield to remove and the exhaust pipe runs right over it and very close. I think $100 is reasonable to do the oil pan gasket. If you do it yourself I recommend getting silicon gasket maker. It will make the job much easier. You just put a bead of it on both mating surfaces, let a skin form then mate them. Lightly tighten them down but not all the way. Let set for 12 hours then tighten down the rest of the way.
Open your owner's manual and look at the maintenance schedule. It tells you what to do and when.
The Honda dealer will replace your seat belt assembly under warranty, may have to order the parts, I had an 1988 Accord that the seat belt was replaced 3 times, no charge under warranty.
There are screws to adjust them just above the light assy.
Try looking here for general removal/replacement info... http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl830i.htm
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