On my 1996 tracker the check engine light is on for EGR and TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUT MALFUNCTION.I talked to a local transmission shop and he said it was a automaic transmission lockup solinoid.Its just inside the transmission pan and i believe it has only 2 wires.I ordered mine from napa for about $45.00 and should get it tommorrow.I'll change fluid and filter at the same time.My tracker shifts fine but i do here a noise that seems to come from that area sometimes upon acceleration and deceleration.Its sounds like a vibration..I'll let you know if it works.Autozone read the code but didnt have any idea on how to fix it.Hope this helps ..
check the starter what year is it , if the key has a transponder chip and you are using a dup made at a wallamrt it won't work.
It depends on the car and you will still have the steering wheel lock to deal with. Newer cars do not like being hot wired. You can break the steering column but that seems excesive. Wiggle the steering wheel as you try and turn the key.
It is in Egypt.
Her mom remarried
The starter is where I'd go first. I've just recently just had this problem with my '97. The tow truck driver clued me in when he had me turn the key and he rapped the starter from the top and I started right away. I was told that the starter is bad and after that I believed him because this has happened before and I've not had an answer until this last guy. He was my savior that day.
If your crank, cam, and distributor where lined up correctly, you should be pretty close. If not, there is a rubber wedge on the transmission bell housing. Remove this wedge, and you should see your marks through this "window" Take your distributor cap off and #1 plug out. You can turn crank till Top Dead Center. Rotor should be hittting on position 1 on distributor. Loosen distributor and hook up timing light. Book says 12 degrees BEFORE TDC, but mine runs closer to 9 or 10.
If you lined up the crank with the distributor, with notch in cam at 12 o'clock...you should be real close!
Check to see if the stop lights are working - same circuit for shift interlock and stop lights - check fuse Try turning key to 1st (unlock) position Shift to Neutral Start vehicle and then shift to "Drive"
I think the tracker is a great vehicle to tow. I have a 37' Holiday Rambler and
I tow a Geo Tracker, it tows great and is good to move around in after we get
into the campground. It tells you what to do for towing in owners manual.
Hi, the fusible link is attached directly to the positive battery terminal. The inertia switch I'll still look for. Hi again, From all I've been able to see and find, it looks as if the inertia switch is also called the rollover switch, is located on or at the fuel pump but looks as if it's part of the foel pump assy which mmakes sense if we think about it. If the car has an accident the fuel needs to be stopped and the inertia or rollover switch would do this. I hope this helps and if you need to remove the fuel tank, it's a little work but doable just need a good jack and a couple of jackstands and a bunch of tools or better still...a good friend with a garage because it's a pain job. By the way, if I'm wrong I hope someone lets me know and if I'm right I hope we are all llet know. Thanks for considering.
I think you've just about had your money's worth out of that little feller. Replace all that floor pan and you're going to find the crossmembers are rotted, so it will fail inspection anyway. And just how many miles do you expect to squeeze out of that little 3 cylinder engine after you've done it all?
Well,it's a FOUR cylinder,and thefloor can be replaced,i replaced mine from yhe firewall to the back door,and the rockerpanels,don't give up.Of course I did all the work myself,if I had to pay someone I would have got another one and kept T2 for parts.
If it gets worse when turning corners under power, CV joints.
Really depends on where the sound is coming from. If it's engine noise any number of things could be wrong. Acceleration puts more of a load on the engine, making all the gremlins more evident.
Determining what each engine sound means is beyond the scope of this.AnswerMine did the same thing. It turned out to be the ignition timing was off.Pre-detonation caused the ticking sound. Either use a timing light to set the timing or have a mechanic do it or trial and error(i.e. move the distributor SLIGHTLY one direction, the drive and see if the ticking is better or wose and go from there).it also may be a exoust leek and that would make a slite tick
*Ignition timing is related. This is specifically a noise between the camshaft and the valves. It clicks because the lifters are solid, and at least one has excessive clearance (or wear). You will notice it under varying load conditions while driving straight, and it will be worse when the engine is cold. Have the lifters and cam shecked for wear, and set the clearance 0.13-0.18mm. Good luck.
Use a digital volt meter to determine the pin arrangement. On the new sensor, Two will be from the heater in the sensor. Set the meter to low OHMS and probe two wires at a time till you get 3.0-5.5 ohms(1.6l TFI engines) or 10.0-15.0 ohms in 1.6L MFI engines. That's the heating element circuit wires that will be connected to the voltage and ground from the ECM. The other wires are the sensor ground, and the sensor output.
This may help, my OEM O2 sensor pigtail is as follows-
blacks=+B (voltage from ECM) and Heater Ground, it should not matter which
With the key off, disconnect the O2 connnector from the harness near the firewall. Turn key to "on" position without starting car. Set volt meter to 10 or 20 volt DC range. ground black (-)neg. probe to engine and probe connector at the harnesss with the positive lead to find (+b) 12v from the ECM.
# you instantly lose all acceleration # the engine quits # the pistons may have "kissed" the valves (engine rebuild) # you need alternate transporation
Routine maintenance and repair could have prevented this from happening. Cars need regular care just as do our bodies in order to remain healthy and dependable. What may have seemed like a trivial repair then may now cost thousands when with routine work it may have been less than a hundred dollars.
If fuel injected- in the fuel tank
Why the hell would you want to?
i guess you mean,
no park, swapped ECU ? and still no spark.
check all the fuses above your left knee.
98 still has a distributor.
so put in a new cap and rotor and wire and plugs, "tune it up"
if no spark, then its:
Bad Distrubutor parts, major.
cmp sender, Ignitor and the coil is inside.
rebuilt distributors are sold by all major auto stores.
Perhaps the driver of this 1990 Tracker is referring to the speed in which the torque converter cluch (TCC) blocks up. My 1991 Tracker's TCC is designed to lock-up at 40MPH. This is accomplished by the governor pressure (which is determined by road speed). The TCC relay is under the hood and it sends the signal to the governor pressure switch. When the governor switch closes it energizes the lock-up solenoid valve,which pressurizes the TCC mechanism causing lock-up, which could be mistaken for another shift by some.
In order to change the water pump the first step is removing the grill and then the radiator fan assembly. Once this is done the water pump is accessible it will have four bolts that must be removed in order to take out the water pump.
Right side of the glove box is a pull down handle
Found answer here www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=480791 It covers the Vauxhall Astra as well which has the same Mechanism as the Zafira Hope this helps
Its ok. I figured it out. Thanks.
If you need info on R-12 HI/Lo A/c pressure gauges, you should take veh. to pro. Once you connect lines from gauges to A/C, you need to understand what the readings mean. avg. lowside @idle = 28-34, avg. Hiside = 120-130.
BE CAREFUL. MANY BEGINNERS and cert. mechanics have made mistakes and injured themselves.
Hi, If youi want to pay top dollal. you can go to your GM Chevy dealer or if you have a salvage yard within a ride your'e willing to go, then call and find out if they have any Trackers there. If your local salvage yard has one, then go with a small toolbox and get one cheaply. The salvage yards have proven to be a valuable resource for me and I have to use a few of them for all I need. Good luck. Steve H.