The 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 is an amazing truck that cost around $20,000. Although this truck maybe somewhat expensive, alot of people are interested in them due to the amazing features and the amount of room.
Alot comes with the big horn,mostly cosmetic but also some power,is suppose to have a 3.93 axle more towing capacity from 8900 to 10450 to be exact a nice grill and 20"wheels, leather, chrome bumpers and door handles a crazy good music system, and some other cosmetic items.
The heater core is located inside the passenger compartment behind the glove box. Remove the glove box liner by removing about 6 screws. Unscrew the heater core cover and you can then see the heater core. Inside the engine compartment you will be able to see where the two hoses connect to the heater core. Disconnect these and with a little wiggling, the heater core will come out. ------------------------------------------------------------- *** Caution ***Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink ant that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. Heater Core 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable 2. Drain and recycle the engine coolant. 3. Remove the instrumental panel. 4. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the junction block splash shield. 5. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the bolts and disconnect the cable ends from the starter relay. 6. If equipped with the 5.4L 4V engine, remove the junction block bracket. 7. Disconnect the heater core hose couplings. 8. Remove the retaining screw and remove the A/C plenum demister adapter. 9. Disconnect the vacuum line from the A/C plenum demister adapter. 10. Remove the heater core bracket. 11. Remove the 13 plenum chamber top retaining screws. 12. Remove the plenum chamber top. 13. Remove the blend door assembly from the case. 14. Remove the heater core. 15. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
Pull out on the headlight switch, and then press the fog light switch button in.
It will bolt up, but it will not shift. The 1995 is hydraulic controlled. The 1997 is electronically controlled.
It is the first year of the 5.9l i6 24v with a high pressure common rail injection system
I had an 88 b250 and an 92 b150 the 88 had 300k and the 92 had 200k but was in bad shape when I got it at 117k. Both vans I drove to the scrap yard. The main issue with those vans are the severe rust problems that occur here in northeast Ohio and many other areas. I spent a total of 1500 for both vans and got 1000 of it back in scrap. I did well over 2 million worth of roof and siding jobs with those vans. I never replaced a major part once just some brakes and mufflers and a couple hoses. Needless to say they are awesome work vans.
to install freon in your 98 lumina you will need to purchase the freon (r134a) and a hose kit from your local parts store. from there, locate the low pressure side of your ac system, usually by the radiator, but sometimes next to the condenser. The hose will only fit on one, so if it doesnt fit on the first you find, find the other. Then, with the car running and the ac on full punture the can and allow freon to enter the system.. That's it!
THE 98 WOULD USE R34 AND CAN BE FOUND AT SOME OF THE AUTO PARTS STORES. THEY ALSO SELL A ADAPTER TO SCREW ONTO THE INLET OR SUCTION SIDE OF THE SYSTEM. INSTROCTIONS COME WITH THE FREON
1. remove rear drive shaft.2.remove diff.cover.3.remove both axles.4.remove carrier case assy.5.remove drive shaft yoke.6.tap pinion gear out of housing with (brass hammer).7 remove pinion seal and front pinion bearing.8.rear pinion bearing well need pressed off & on the pinion gear.9.you need to use a punch drive the bearing race from housing both.
Check Stop lights--if they are not working vehicle will not shift out of "park" check fuse Here are opinions and answers from FAQ Farmers:
I simply needed to replace a fuse. I drive a Ford Explorer and had to change fuse listed as "Reverse Park Aid/Shift Change Interlock/IVD Switch".
* This happened to me (1995 Tbrd) last night (24 oct 2008), in an empty parking lot. I was "lucky" to have some tools on board so I took off the shifter handle, took apart the console and found where a cable attaches to a locking mechanism that prevents the shifter from moving. The cable would not travel so I disconnected it. Problem resolved (temporairily). I guess that cable goes to the brake and/or ignition switch.
To do this you need some screw drivers, small socket (didn't notice the size, about 5/16) and needle nose pliers.
I'd never done this before so it took me about an hour to figure out, but at least I got home. I wonder if a 5 minute fuse change would have fixed it???
- The same thing happened to my current car, 99 volkswagen golf..if this is the same model you have, contact Volkswagen. I was told that it was a recall on a safety switch located in the vehicle and to bring it into any dealership and they will fix the problem for free.
if you didn't start the car
if you didn't apply the brake pedal
Or, the shifter assembly has failed.
It all depends on the conditions in which you run the engine how you service it. if you do all your regular serviceing i have seen the with over 800k on the original engine and still going strong and i have worked at a Dodge dealer for 5 years. i have also seen some that have not been looked after not make it to 150k. with proper maintnce the engine will be the last thing to go on those trucks.
This link has photos and steps to replace brake pads and rotors. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696
Unlike the 5.7 Litre Hemi, which takes 16, your 4.7 only has 8
1 per cylinder.
4.5 to 5 quarts
Park the vehicle on a level surface and drain the oil and change the filter. Pour in 4.5 quarts of oil and start the engine. Let it run for 1 minute. Shut off and wait 30 minutes. Check the oil level and add as necessary to fill to the full mark. You now know the capacity.
It is part of the fuel pump module inside the tank.
245/75 16 on most.
It's on a sticker on your door jamb.
Could be anything from dirty fuel filter, bad fuel pump, fouled spark plugs, worn out plug wires, dirty intake, etc...
he invented the company in 1919 but the cummins came before then
To replace the water pump isn't complicated for the handy individual however there are a few procedures that need to be followed and if you are uncertain to proceed, the Chilton manual for your vehicle is a good investment providing you with pictures along side step by step instruction. First you will need to drain your antifreeze into a container. You will find a release valve at the bottom of the radiator (usually on the drivers side), this valve you will turn counter clockwise to open. Next step is to remove the fan. Behind the fan is a large nut and often can be released by hitting the edge of the fan clutch nut with a punch and hammer. Should it not move, carefully heat up ONLY the nut with a torch and use a large crescent wrench to get the nut moving. It won't take much at this point, then spin off the fan. The next step is to remove the serpentine belt. You might want to draw a diagram as to how it sits as the diagram that comes with the vehicle may not be adequate. There is a special tool to release the serpentine belt from the tensioner but you can use a long 9/16 wrench. The water pump is more accessible if you remove the fan cover, it's only four bolts.
Undo the hoses from the pump and the heater hose from the small black tube that goes into water-pump. There are several bolts around the pump they are 9/16 head size. Usually there are 7 bolts, 8 if you include the one that secures the black tube that goes into the water-pump. If you are not sure just look at the new pump to see if you have removed all the bolts. The bypass hose that attaches to the nipple on top of the pump is often stuck on so use pliers to remove the clamp then pry the hose off with screwdriver being careful not to puncture it as to replace this requires removing all things above the water pump. To make reassembly easier if you have a squeeze clamp on bypass hose replace it with a worm clamp (a band style clamp with an attached screw). Make certain you scrape off the old gasket from the engine block and lightly sand to ensure a clean surface (if you don't ensure a clean surface you will end up with a leak). Attach the gasket keeping it in place with a thin layer of silicone. Assemble starting with the bypass hose and a couple of bolts to ensure the gasket won't shift from bumping. Some bolts are longer than others but you won't mix them up as the short ones won't work in the long holes and vise versa. Hook up all remaining hoses and refill cooling system let your engine run a while - check for leaks. Top off the coolant bottle and recheck in a day or two.
After you obtain a matching type of switch (there are three major types, see below):
One person wrote: "I am not an electrican---Make a diagram of the wiring. Replace 1 wire at a time. Black (hot)wires go to the brass screws. White wires (neutral) goes to the silver screws. Incoming hot is usually coming up from the bottom. Out going to the fixture is on top." Because installations may vary randomly on which wire goes where, and whether power is top or bottom, it might be better to have a qualified person assist in this task.
Black to brass, white to silver screws holds true for receptacles but not for switches. Switches have two brass screws and can have two black wires on them or a black and a white or even a red wire.
There should not be any "white" wires at a switch. If there are (e.g., because a cable was used), they must have colored tape (not green) wrapped around them to indicate they are NOT neutral. No neutral wires should ever be switched. If there are any wires connected together (e.g., two or more white wires), leave them connected to each other. If there is a bare (or green) grounding wire, make sure it also gets connected the same way it was on the old switch.
You also need to make sure you use the same type of switch as the old one. There are "normal" single-pole, single-throw (SPST) light switches (two screw terminals, plus ground); "three-way" single-pole, double-throw (SPDT, three terminals, plus ground); and "four-way" double-pole, double-throw (DPDT, four terminals, plus ground). The switch may also be of a special type, such as "dimmer" or "lighted", or a special decorator shape that will affect whether you get the same cover back onto it.
it refers to the weight you are legally allowed to carry on a trailer with brakes. (including the trailer) trailers without brakes are restricted to a lesser weight.
I assume you are referring to the Cabin Filter. Purchase a Purolator filter for your vehicle. It comes with complete instructions.
It was not built with a cabin filter.
were about on the car do you fill up the additive on peugeot 307
Is the mirror pedestal loose at the door skin, or is the bucket loose at the pedestal? The door panel has to come off first. The pedestal nuts can be accessed under the outer seal. If the bucket is loose, the mirror must be removed from the door, two screws are up inside the pedestal. If I remember correctly it should be a T-20 or T-25 torx bit. Have fun!
The same thing happened to me and my mechanic opted for... silicone jelly instead of
a replacement (which i am quite certain is necessary otherwise and perpostourously expensive because its the whole unit... not just some attatchment piece)
plus silicone jelly is pretty elastic so it will turn if needed (but only when it's really needed)
i mean it is glue... but it has worked phenomenally
Better --correct the root cause.
The pedestal is loose because the "press-nutwasher" has come off. There are 2 parts to the mirror assy. The base(bottom section) and the mirror housing. Those 2 pcs are held together by the press nut which grips the post protruding up from the base unit.
The entire assy must be removed from the door .This means the inside door panel is removed first. The (3) 10mm nuts that hold the mirror assy to the door are accessed thru the 2 rubber ports using an extension ratchet.
The wiring harness has 2 clips to disconnect ;then pull the harness from the car carefully with the mirror assy.
The mirror itself is attached to its plastic ABS frame using silicne rubber and the 2 can be separated carefully to gain access to inside of mirror housing. The mirror is curved and expensive so careful.
I cut all 8 color coded wires--no need to cut the 2 black heater wires -they have slide clips. Do not worry--these wire are reattached using inexpensive insulated crimp type butt connectors--keeping faith with the color codes.
Now you can see the post /spring/press nut assembly which need to be reassembled.
If anyone is out there I'll email a pic of the jig I made to press the nut back on the post.
We could also talk it thru--email me first firstname.lastname@example.org
Additional Answer to this >>>>>
If the mirror is loose at the door;
Remove the inner door panel, 2 felt pads holding the door glass in place, and lower the window. You will see 2 nuts that attach the mirror, pry the door glass away from that side and block it back with a piece of wood or such. Tighten nuts.
If the mirror is loose at the attachment from the head to the stalk;
Proceed as above except remove the 2 nuts. Remove the mirror. Inside the stalk you will see 2 screws. Tighten them. That will tighten the head to the stalk. Beyond that you're on your own!
Dodge Ram 2500 car parts are compataible with dodge ram 2500. this way you know they are compatible and don't have to worry if something will not work
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