The light come on when the system detects a problem and sets a trouble code. You should have it diagnosed by a trained technician. The airbag system is not for do it yourselfers.

The light is on because there is a problem with the air bag system. When the air bag light is on the system is not working and will not deploy in the event of an accident. When the air bag light is on the system has set a code(s) in the computer A scanning device can retrieve the code(s). The code(s) will give you a clue where the problem is. Many auto parts stores will read the code(s) from your vehicles computer for zip if you purchase the parts necessary to repair the vehicle from them.

you have a false signal coming from the sensor harnes.

It means there is an issue with your airbag. You should have it diagnosed and repaired.

If the air bag light is coming on then you have a problem with the SRS. Seek professional help.

On most vehicles, the airbag light should come on for @6 seconds, and then go off if the system is working properly. If there is a fault or a problem in the system, the light will remain illuminated, or flash continuously. If the airbag light does not work properly, some vehicles have an audible tone that sounds indicating a problem with the airbag light system. When the light is on (or the tone is sounding), the airbag will NOT deploy, even in an accident.

Some vehicle manufacturers accommodate systems without a scanner (like Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Infinity, Honda, Acura, Ford, Lincoln, Mazda & Mercury) and some require a scan tool.

SRS ( supplement restraint system)if your light is on while driving, it means there is a malfunction in the system somewhere, which you should have checked

The light comes on because the airbag computer has detected a malfunction. You need to have the system checked for codes with a scan tool. You then need to have the cause repaired by a trained technician. The airbag system is not a safe place for do it you selfers.

Either the bags have been deployed or there is a problem with the computer/sensorzperiodz

If it's the computer/sensor the bags won't deploy. get this checked out!

If the air bag light comes on and stays on it is telling you there is a problem with the system and the air bag(s) is disabled. Until the problem is fixed the light will remain on.

I disagree there is a reset for the airbag module, as I will explain, however, it is true that the system has detected some kind of fault. It is our experience, that (some times)even if you fix the problem the light may not turn off. For example, if the error somehow simulated a crash sequence the error code will be reflected in the control module and the light will not clear. You can however, with the right type of technology, clear even hard codes written to the module. We do this every day. See reset airbag module link

You need to go to a dealership or service station to have them look at this. If your air bag light is staying off after you've started your car (should illuminate for just a second or two), you need to have the system checked. Check the fuse chart in your manual. At least for '94 Dodge Caravan, if air bag light is on and the horn doesn't work, the problem is the clockspring. If the air bag light stays on and the rear window wiper doesn't work, it's fuse #13. Check this out before spending $$ at dealership.

Most of the time is caused by a bad clockspring or its connector for the air bag has come undone. It can be caused by a bad air bag cotrol unit, but this usually doesnt happen unless the bags have been deployed. Not always though. Hope this helps. It usually indicates a problem with the airbag system. It is NOT recommended to service the system. Have a professional do it.

When the clock spring breaks the air bag light stays on,the horn and cruse control don't work. This is a recall item on many models repaired at no cost to the owner.

Well if its an automatic, that's easy... I have this too. first answer this...

how fast are you going?

does it have overdrive (auto only)?

if manual what gear you get up to when this happens?

well if its auto, and your going fairly fast and suddenly let go of the gas... its going to change down quite quick due to gearbox design. This would give the sensation of the car braking...

if its a manual car, then you are most likely in too low a gear to start with, this is why we change down when we loose our brakes, speed reduction is effective immedeatly without brakes...it slows you down to save emergency speed...1 min or so.

I just fixed the driver side seat belt on my 97 Camry. It stopped retracting a couple of days ago which led me to this site searching for a DIY repair solution. I had to remove the trim and the seat belt retractor to understand the problem. The small white plastic roller that connects to the spring is no longer connected to the spring. When you pull out the seat belt, the roller should wind the spring to create the tension to retract it ... IF the roller is attached to the spring. The metal tab that inserts into a small slit in the roller is no longer in its place.

Here is how I fixed it:

1. Take the retractor off the chassis.
2. Use a small screw driver, push out the center rods of the three plastic screws that attached the spring housing. Remove the spring housing.
3. Have some scotch tapes handy. Remove the cover of the housing (two plastic tabs on each side). Tape over the opened spring housing on each sides to prevent springs from popping out. If it pops out, you would have to spend a long time winding the mess up and back into the housing (it happened to me, sigh). Leave the center accessible (not taped over). The center end of the spring is the small tab that should insert into the white plastic roller.
4. Use an epoxy glue that works with metal and plastic (I bought one from Home Depot for less than 3 bucks, 2000lbs/sq inch, 30 minute set time).
5. Wash / clean the grease off the roller, and wipe clean the metal spring tab (I also filed it a bit rough).
6. Mix the epoxy glue and put a little bit on the side of the metal tab that should touch the roller once inserted / attached properly. Insert into the roller slit (MAKE SURE the roller's large square hole is facing up / away from the spring housing). Make sure the two attaches, and leave it for 30 minutes - 1 hour.
7. Carefully remove the scotch tapes, put the spring housing cover back on.
8. Back to the car where the retractor is loose. Roll up the seat belt until the roller is high up near the seat belt anchor on the door frame.
9. Carefully align the roller arm on the retractor and the opening in the small roller on that spring housing, push the housing back onto the retractor and push in the three plastic screw rods to lock it in place.
10. Pull the retractor down to the frame and screw it back onto the frame. By rolling up all seat belts and attaching the spring housing before, this time the spring is winding and creates tension (although not much, enough to retract the seat belt when unused).

The retractor has a metal ball (as a previous poster mentioned) that engages a lever to prevent free play. When you roll up or down the retractor, make sure the retractor is level, otherwise the ball will engage the lever and lock the retractor ... if that happens, though, you need to level the retractor, give it a bit seat belt retraction before it can unlock and allow you to pull more seat belts out. In my case, the metal ball is not magnitized.

And my seat belt retracts, once again :)

Check to see if something is lodged in the track of the belt path,penny, ink pen, etc. If you have kids it could be a foreign objects in the way of the flow of the belt trail.

I have a 1988 Toyota Camary and my seat belts wouldn't move when I closed the door. I check my manual and it suggested check the circuit breakers, they are located above the fuse box on the driver's side, remove the plastic panel and look above the fuse box, look for round cans with a tiny hole in the middle of the round end. (This should be the breaker) Using a straightened out paper clip, insert the clip into the tiny hole and press the reset button, you should hear or feel a click. Try your seat belt again, it should work. The seat belt track may need some grease, if it causes a drag on the motor it may trip the breaker.

I had this problem on a 1997 Camry. There are 3 breakers on driver side "kick panel." The manual lists breaker #22 as the one. To get to circuit breakers the panel under the instrument panel must be removed. (This is not clear in manual.) In my case the breaker was loose and had to be pushed in.

Design defect in Toyota Seat Belts.

There is something else you need to be aware of regarding the seat belt retractors on 91 era Toyotas (and probably dozens of other models as well). Replacing just the front seat belt retractors can cost you .00! Yes, Five Hundred bucks! The back seat? Another !

Fact is, the seat belt system is a defective design to begin with!

Have you run into the common problem where the seat belts no longer tension properly? That is, they just reel out and offer no protection?

DO NOT go to your local dealer and fork over the like I almost did.

As I looked into the seat belt system I learned a lot about how it works..or doesn't work properly (Nasty PI lawyers...are you listening?) The Toyota seat belt retractors were manufactured by Tokai Rica which supplied the units to Toyota.

Similar to other seat belt retractor systems, the device uses a small, steel ball which is supposed to react to sudden pulling on the belt. Pulling quickly on the belt (or in the case of an accident), moves the steel ball so that an arm drops down on a gear and halts safety belt movement.

Unfortunately, the steel ball is very close to the reel which rolls and un-rolls the seat belt. What happens(over years), is that the constant rolling and un-rolling of the seat belts creates static electricity. This charge is ultimately transferred to this steel ball. In time, the steel ball becomes magnetically attracted to the steel frame of the car. The result is that the ball is forever stuck in a position whereby the seat belt is completely free and you have no protection.

How can you tell if your seat belt retractors have this problem? Remove the unit from the car and hold it away from anything metallic and in the same position (not upside down), as it is was installed in the car. If the retractor works properly OUTSIDE OF THE CAR (and away from any metal), this is your problem.

The simple fix is to demagnitize the steel ball.

No need to open the retractor and pull the ball out (difficult anyhow). Get a cheap demagnitizer at Radio Shack or wherever and carefully remove the charge from the ball (everything else is made of nylon), and you should be good to go. Repeat the process to all the other retractors in the car because they're probably all screwed up too (all used the SAME design).

What bothers me is that Toyota just smiles and offers you the -,000 fix for a product which was WRONG to begin with! And, needless-to-say, DANGEROUS! If they were a stand-up company they'd make things right.

Love to hear from you if you've encountered this problem. Mainly, I hope I've helped you to save a few(!) bucks.

Johnt55.com

If your belts are automatic like on the 90 Camry you may have a blown fuse.drivers side kick panel 7.5 fuse.what i did on mine was istall a circuit breaker fuse and it worked fine,however after more trouble shooting i found the culprit was a broken wire in the trunk,on the left side of trunk the hinge rubs against the wire and breaks it causing the fuse to blow.

i have late '80's cars which i believe have same or similar mechanism. there is a switch in the door above the door strike/latch assy that operates the seatbelt (sends "door closed" signal to ECU). after removing door panel, all linkage rods, screws & wire connector, if you're careful, you can disassemble the switch, clean, & reassemble. I have replaced drivers side on one car with junkyard part and now need to replace in other car passenger side. It's not as bad as it sounds to repair. I went through everything else before stumbling onto this.

When my auto seatbelt failed, I tracked the problem to an electrical short if the wiring bundle inside the rubber chase between the car door and body (at the hinge). The repair was very difficult in that their is precious little slack in the wires to facilitate the splice repair and also that there is very little room to navigate your hands. Remove the door cover and "uncap" the rubber chase to gain access.

You can Deactivate the Belt Minder two ways. First, you can deactivate it temporarily for your current "run cycle", that is after you have started your car and it's still running. Second, you completely deactivate the Belt Minder so that it never reminds you again, or at least until your reactivate it...

The first method, temporary deactivation, or one time disable: After you have started your vehicle, buckle and then un-buckle your safety belt. Be sure to buckle back up.... This will disable the Belt Minder only for that ignition cycle.

The second method, permanent deactivation: There are 9 steps you need to follow to deactivate or activate your Belt Minder system. Before doing so, make sure that: The parking brake is set. The truck/car is in Park (automatic), Neutral (manual). The ignition is OFF. All doors are closed. The driver's safety belt is un-buckled. The parking and headlights are OFF. Then follow these 9 steps:

Turn the ignition switch to ON, but DO NOT START. Wait for the safety belt warning light to go OFF(1-2 minutes). Steps 3-5 MUST be completed within 60 seconds!

Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. Turn on the headlights, turn off the headlights. Buckle, then un-buckle the driver's safety belt 3 times, ending with the belt un-buckled. After step 5, the Safety Belt Warning Light will be turned on for 3 seconds.

Within 7 seconds of the safety belt warning light turning OFF, buckle then un-buckle the safety belt. This will disable the Belt Minder if it is currently enabled, or enable the Belt Minder if it is currently disabled.

Confirmation of the disabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds. Confirmation of the enabling of the Belt Minder is provided by flashing the safety belt warning light 4 times per seconds for 3 seconds, followed by 3 seconds with the safety belt light off, then followed by flashing the safety belt light 4 times per second for 3 seconds again. After confirmation, the deactivation/activation of the Belt Minder procedure is complete.

Obviously, buckling the seatbelt should silence the reminder. If you see/hear the reminder and all belts used by the reminder ARE buckled, the vehicle should be taken in for service ASAP.

If you do not want to use your seatbelt for whatever reason, and wish to disable or silence the reminder system altogether, this can be done in a matter of minutes by a serviceperson at a dealership using a custom option setting device connected to the vehicle's internal computer. As this is a safety system, some dealerships may not be willing to do this unless you sign a liability waiver.

However, if you do not wish to have the vehicle serviced professionally for whatever reason or would like to disable or bypass the seat belt reminder system for certain seats only, the following options may be of help:

A piece of sheet metal of the same dimensions and shape as the actual seat belt 'plug' can be inserted into the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder. Obviously, the more the piece of metal resembles the actual 'plug', the more likely it is to work.

Also, as seat belt buckle design has not changed much lately, a junkyard is one source of seat belt 'plugs' that can be cut from their straps and inserted in the seat belt 'socket' to silence the reminder chime. It's likely that several model years of a car (and even different makes/models) may all have similar seat belt 'plugs'.

Lastly, there are wires running down the 'socket' end of the seatbelt which tell the car's computer if the seat belt is buckled or not. These wires may be cut, stripped and connected together (or separated, depending on which stops the reminder) permanently.

It should be mentioned that disabling or bypassing this safety system in any way is discouraged by vehicle manufacturers, insurance companies, safety specialists and many other private and public organizations and individuals. However, there are conditions for which seatbelt use is extremely uncomfortable or presents more harm than benefit, such as in the case of certain abdominal/thoracic medical conditions, morbid obesity, etc.

answer:

It's very simple. There is a small box-like switch plugged into your fuse box. Just pull it out. That will stop the warning bell/buzzer. The trick is to find out which "box" (switch) it is. Just pull them out one by one. You will find out. You won't hurt the car, don't worry. Look for tiny lettering on the fuse box itself, it may well say STBT, meaing, "seatbelt warning indicator". Something like that. You can try autozone.com, maybe they have a diagram of the fuse box for you. Maybe.

Owner's manual say that 'if the seat belt motor" does not come on after changing the fuses...then move the seat belt mechanism manually to the back and 'usefull' position. My owners manual says there is a 'plastic plug' on the 'b' pillar at the bottom. You have to pry that 'plug' off and insert a tool, that came in my 'flat tire' tool box to manually pull the sealt belt mechanism to the back position. The tool look like a "torx' head screw driver with a 'push' on 'wheel' so you can wheel back the mechanism. I have seen both of these items in my 'flat tire' tool bag that came with the car. I hope I still have them. I will now go out and try it.

Also, I have manually moved the seat belt to the locked position, as long as no-one uses that door, the warning "beep" at least goes away.