Use a dental pick or similar tool and carefully pry off center cap to reveal Allen screw.
I have a 93. Same setup. Start by taking the two fans off. Then the windshield washer tank, then the support bar on the left side, the the two wishbones, then the air cleaner, then take a swivel to get to the back bolt and a normal socket to get to the front one..
If your crank, cam, and distributor where lined up correctly, you should be pretty close. If not, there is a rubber wedge on the transmission bell housing. Remove this wedge, and you should see your marks through this "window" Take your distributor cap off and #1 plug out. You can turn crank till Top Dead Center. Rotor should be hittting on position 1 on distributor. Loosen distributor and hook up timing light. Book says 12 degrees BEFORE TDC, but mine runs closer to 9 or 10.
If you lined up the crank with the distributor, with notch in cam at 12 o'clock...you should be real close!
Until you run out of gas...
I had my "distributor pick-up" replaced. car would just die out, while i was driving.
It doesnt matter what oil you use, the oil is whatever the user of the vehicle likes, i like Valvoline myself, its probably the best motor oil out there... don't use Quakerstate, ive heard some pretty bad stories of how that will build up gunk, and aventionally, youll have to get that out in order to keep a good running engine... i always use Valvoline 10W 30... but you don't have to, you can use a higher or lighter weight oil if you prefur.
Actually, my father was a high-speed racing instructor and has been an automotive mechanic for around thirty years - and any conventional motor oil will degrade and gunk up engines eventually. If you plan on keeping a car for a long time, it is essential you use a synthetic motor oil. AMSoil is the leading 100% synthetic brand (don't be fooled by the larger brand "synthetic"s that basically throw additives into crude oil), and it is so effective at reducing engine wear that it is recommended to use regular for the first 3-5k miles to "break in" the engine. In fact, if you have been using crude oil for years on an engine and switch to AMSoil, you may suddenly find oil leaks because the crude oil has crusted over damage to the engine that it participated in causing.
AMSoil is typically around twice as much as typical crude oils, but you can go nearly twice as far on between oil changes, so it balances out. Well, when you minus the cost of repairs you won't be doing because of the added protection, it far reduces the cost of overall maintenance. If you have any more questions or interest in trying AMSoil out you can e-mail me at ckeller05 (at) wou (dot) edu.
We have used AMSoil in every race vehicle and passenger vehicle we have owned, and all my dad's clients have willingly chosen to switch over from conventional, crude oils.
Plymouth Acclaims are notorious for this. Underneath the car there is an anti-sway bar that runs between the back wheels. Surrounding the bar is a u-shaped channel. Where the bar passes through the channel at each end, there is supposed to be a weld, but it was poorly designed and the welds eventually break, resulting in a horrifying clunk every time you hit a bump and the bar hits the channel. There are two ways to resolve this: Pay the dealer $400 to install a new bar and channel assembly (which will break eventually), or pay your local muffler shop $20 to weld a couple of pieces of scrap metal between the bar and the channel to keep it from moving. Problem solved.
Get the car on jack stands so there's no weight on the front wheels. grab the tie rod and twist it, lift it; does it move? Grab the tire and move it rapidly like the car was turning right to laft rapidly; see any movment? feel movement? Any movement means replace it; Count the threads showing on youir old tie rods; install the new ones so you count the same anount of threads showing; then drive to alignment shop and get it aligned.
Hi I'm Patrick and I have a 1994 Plymouth Acclaim and that annoying clunking sound is coming from the rear wheels there's a bar that runs down the middle of the rail that holds the wheels together and when you go over a bump that bar smacks the canal it sits in and makes that sound so I just got my welder out and welded it to the canal to keep it from smacking.
Alas, I am also among those who have no money to spend, but kind fellow, i know for sure that the only way to make a 49cc scooter go faster (significantly at that) is to buy a new sprocket for either the main drive "zone" or the clutch, but i would recommend not fooling around with your scooter, because 3 years ago, i did what you want to do, damaged a very delicate part that is very, very, hard to replace, and when i was riding it, i fell off the scooter because the throttle cable had become damaged, unintentionally, and would not allow me to slow down, well, long story short, i hit a rock, went over my handlebars, and wasn't able to walk because both my ankles were sprained and i pulled my knee out of its socket.
Please leave the scooter alone, what you want to do will not help the bike, it will hurt you.
If you know the battery is good, then you have a bad ignition switch or starter, or a loose wire.
There are a few different reasons this could happen. The most likely cause if you lost that much oil that quickly is a rear main seal. This is a "main seal" in the back of your engine, this seal can leak severely over time and mileage. The engine typically has to be removed to replace this seal.
Behind battery mounted on the side of the strut housing. the connector color is GREY. F. Garay
Mopar ATF+3, or Mopar ATF+4
broken timing belt, check it- you wont get a spark if its broken
They are SAE
You dont have to plug in a code reader to get Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) on any Plymouth Acclaim; you turn the key to run, without starting it, 5 times, then back to run. It will then flash out a code via the Check Engine Light. I.e. flash-flash PAUSE flash flash flash..END would be code 23. Google is your friend. You can find many many many webpages dedicated to this technology ~Technologic80