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Diesel Models: Normally a problem with faulty glow plugs. The starter motor will appear to turn normally. Its possible that not all the glow plugs are faulty, and after several attempts the engine will start.

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THE TRUNK RED BUTTON MAY BE BEHIND SOME CARPETING IF IT SHIFTED HOPE THAT HELPS Standing behind the car, looking in, the switch is on the left, slightly closer than the trunk hinge. It's in a small box with an access hole to stickyour finger in. Check for a dealer manual in the glovebox. It's described in detail. It will only trip if the car is bumped fairly hard, or you 'whack' the rear quarter while the car is running.

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The lock is sticking. It needs to be removed and cleaned. It could also be faulty wiring. 306's are notorious for this. Open the drivers side door & check the rubber piping by the door hinges for damage. Make sure the plug is in properly. If all looks ok, you'll probably have to get the wiring re-done.

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Disconnect -ve terminal from battery ,or remove fuse on clock circuit (fuse 19 on my 306).

Prise off lower central facia panel that surrounds clock, demister, hazard warning light switch and lighter, by easing screwdriver blade behind it and levering off.

Remove the 2 tork screws that secure the clock.

Pull the clock forward.

Disconnect the wiring plug from the rear of the clock.

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loosen the tension bracket (13mm) then loosen off the tension

remove the negative lead from battery, then starter and main lead off alt

remove belt, and tension bolt

one bolt left at top, think it's a 45 torx.....

to replace, just do the reverse

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right around 100,000 more miles maybee 150,000.

my 205 has done 124,000 and is still toddeling along:)

My 306 1.4 Miami has done 124,000 miles and is fine. I had the head gasket re-skimmed at about 100,000 but that was due to a garage fault more than a fault with the engine.

Errrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr it REALLY depends on loads of things! Like if you hack the car or generally trash it. Also, crashing the car will shorten its lifespan! Servicing the car regularly will also help to lengthen the lifespan. Also, diesel cars tend to run for longer.

Still running a 1996 1400cc 306, now has 144,000 on the clock, usual wear and tear replacements.

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plug it

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pug diesel turbo r good for 150,,,170 thousand miles...

The above answer is mad I bought my partner a pug 306 D its done 130,000 miles I dont know for sure if its ever been replaced but it was in serious danger of snapping when I checked it. A manual for this car will state a chgange every 72000 miles max but recommend every 36,000miles. Using the above advice im sorry is dangerous.

I hope this helps any doubt refer to the Haynes manual.

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mine only had central had to install remote entry afterwards mine only had central had to install remote entry afterwards

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have lost code for my pug and i dont know how2 disarm it can u help

Think you have to remove drivers seat to get at wiring

Think you should sell the car on Ebay, and attach a rear spoiler

To unlock the immobilizer there is a button with lines on it near the ignition switch, as you turn the ignition press this button, it will turn off the immobilizer.

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as with any car the weakest point is the windows so i would say yes but every car is easy to break in to

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you pay someone else to do it lol

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You can find the evaporator drain on the bottom of your air-conditioner compressor. The evaporator drain hose will go from the compressor to the bottom of the engine compartment.

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if you have the code enter it then press C then enter new code press C again the green light will flash 4 times to confirm.

if you lost the code you need the ecu reset, google this, there is companys that do it i think for around £50

if you have the engine running you can disable the pad by pulling of its plu under it this will disable the key pad immobiliser.

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I THINK YOU MIGHT FIND THAT THE IDLE CONTROL VAVLE IS FAULTY AND IS NOT COSTLY TO REPAIR.OR THE THROTTLE CABLE MAY BE ADJUST WRONG OR CAUGHT ON SOMETHING.

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Under the bonnet there is a cap with an orange handle sticking out of it, unscrew it and pull it with the dipstick out, fill up roughly a glassfull then slide the dipstick and cap back in and screw shut.

To check the level of the oil, pull the dipstick out using it's orange handle, wipe it down with a rag, put it back in for five seconds then pull it out again and check if the oil is above the two notches on the end of it, if it is then it should be fine, if it isn't then top it up.

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Check the brake light switch for proper adjustment or possibly it is defective. You will find it mounted on the brake lever under the dash, or possibly it is a pressure switch connected to the master cylinder. Any VW dealer can tell you where it is.

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the belt only goes around the crank pulley and alternator pulley

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Trade it in for a Volvo. Or a BMW. Or a Ford. Anything but a Peugeot. I guarantee you this will not be the last thing you fix.

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It opens by pulling the handle at left in the drivers foot space.

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ON TOP OF THE GEARBOX BELLHOUSING THERE IS A SENSOR (EASY TO SPOT,COUPLE OF WIRES COMING OUT OF IT),IT READS THE ROTATIONS OF THE FLYWHEEL, GIVE IT A PUSH DOWN THEN PULL IT UPWARDS A TINY BIT.I EXPECT IT WIGGLED ITS WAY OUT OF POSITION.THAT'LL DO THE TRICK ;)

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Fill up with diesel and see if the gauge still goes up.

The sender unit is under the back seat, one to the left under 6" black plastic plug is the fuel pump, the one to the right is the sender unit. Prise the plug out of the floor and unscrew the the sender unit from tank. Once out it can be moved manually while the ignition is on and see the gauge moving. The float arm is stiff and am still truying to work out why as 3 others checked were all the same. To get at the dash gauge remove the steering wheel, instrument shroud and instrument panel, not a lot to see as all printed circuits.

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10 mill long socket