According to Castrol is requires 3.6L
10.6 US Gallons as per my CRZ Owner's manual
The "check engine light" is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem with the EMISSION SYSTEM only. Emission system being the pollution control system. It is a good thing once you understand it.
The " check engine light" is also known as a malfunction indicator light (MIL). You can disconnect the battery red lead for about 5 min and it will reset. However, if there is a hard fault, it will come back on.
Disconnecting the battery won't do the trick on OBD 2 vehicles.
Without a scan tool designed to reset the electronic control module (ecm) a do-it-your-selfer can't reset the check engine light.
Pull the codes from the computer using an OBD (II) code reader. Match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source of the fault. After you have repaired the fault, the light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist.
One point that was brought up a a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say that about 7% of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap.
But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have 17 different computers) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria and they can be vastly different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests are not run until preceding ones have run successfully. So if there is a problem in one particular area that is preventing another self test from running, you can have a situation where one problem is fixed, but another still exists. If you fix a problem and drive the car through a drive cycle that sets the monitor (or self test) the light will go off as it passes that criteria that triggered it in the first place.
After 1996, the auto industry went to a idea called OBD II (On Board Diagnostics). This was to get all the manufacturers onto a similar plane for troubleshooting and powertrain control. While they still differ vastly, many corrections and adaptations were made for technicians to better fix the check engine light problems.
Prior to this there were so many different and poor troubleshooting data from a check engine light problem that resolving the problem was much more difficult.
Many early warning lights of this nature were set to illuminate based on mileage. An oxygen sensor was one of the things that was meant to be replaced when that mileage was hit. This is much like many current "Change oil lights" which are set up to come on after a pre-set mileage.
Great question and good answer above. There is one thing to add however. On my 2004 Buick for example I am required to manually reset the "check oil" light myself every time I get an oil change. This ensures that the system understands the condition the oil is in. If/when I do not reset it, not long after my expected date the light goes on by default as a reminder.
Your instruction manual would outline this. Mine for example is simply...
1. Insert key
2. Turn key to ON, without engaging engine (just before the engine cranks, and leave key there)
3. When placed to ON, press and depress the brake slowly 5 times in 5 seconds.
4. Turn key to off.
5. Turn key and start engine.
The check engine light is now reset, if it returns shortly it is an actual issue, rather then a reminder.
Some Ford Mondeos have a 'Service interval expired' warning light. It is pretty much the same as the "check oil" light mentioned in the answer above.
On that type of Ford Mondeo there is a small hole in the display screen in front of the 'Service interval expired' warning light. To reset it, just turn the ignition key until the all warning lights come on but do not start the engine. Then press a tiny button in the warning light display panel by poking a straightened metal paper clip through the hole. If you hold it steady for 10 seconds whilst keeping the ignition on, the warning light goes out. It will come on again when the service time period again expires.
no it would no be worth the cost to change you would need to install a clutch pedal a hyd master cylinder and slave cylinder for the clutch as well as change the fly wheel on the motor and possibly the starter as well install a shifter and linkage it would run into about 1500 dollars or more to do this conversion. most people go from standard to automatic it is a little less things that get changed but on a front wheel drive it would be very costly.AnswerSaying that it isn't worth it is a very inappropriate answer. You have to weigh what you want from the vehicle against the costs. Yes, it will run him probably $800-$1500 or less, but if you choose to have a highly performance tuned engine, then having a manual transmission for both it's increased strength and control of the vehicle might be considered "worth it". AnswerIt would be more cost effective to sell your auto and buy a manual. Answerno Honda "performance" engine is going to be in an automatic car to begin with. Sell the car and buy a manual tranny car and be happy. AnswerIt depends on how customized the car is. If the guy's put a lot of time and money into fixing the car up and he's generally happy with it (except for the transmission), then yeah, changing out the trans wouldn't be unreasonable. If the car's white with stock interior, definitely just trade it in on one with a manual. Besides, if he tries selling the car and it is really Fast and Furious, the people who want a car like that are gonna take one look and think the same thing the poster is: "what's this automatic ****?"
The procedure's simple to understand: buy a wrecked car, park it next to yours and transfer everything under the hood, plus the pedals, shifter, computer and (probably) console, from the wreck to your car. Figure two to three months if you've got plenty of tools.
It is worth it imo i did it on my 03 civic ex and cost my 400 dollars to do it and i installed everything myself. but if you don't like the auto go on civic forums and find used parts that's the best way to go. U can always find good deals on parts.
Tachometers are instruments which are used to determing the speed at which something is turning [usually measured/indicated in Revolutions per minute]. There are many different tachs that accomplish this in several different ways. The tach that uses a "generator" is basically a voltmeter for the "read out," and a generator that creates a small electrical output which when supplied to [and properly calibrated to] the read out voltmeter guage, gives an indication of the Rpm of the shaft to which the generator is attached.
aftermarket wiper blades come in two sizes in width if your civic is a 1990 onwards chances are is the skinnyer one, the new ones will be of plastic constuction with a clip at one end, with a pair of sharp pliers cut the factory ones out being careful not to damage the wiper arms and in peticular the little parts that hold the wiper blades in, then simply slide the new wiperblades in place and cut excess material off leaving a quarter of an inch longer so the new wiperblade doesnt fall out. the clips should always be mounted at the bottom of the wiper arc, if your not sure what i mean, when you switch on your wipers then switch off the ignition in the middle of the wiper action the mounting clips shold be at the bottom of the windshield...
1,3,4,2 starting at the lower left of the distributor cap and rotating clockwise. the cylinders are numbered 4,3,2,1 left to right.
Yes ive had a 97 and a 06 both 2 doors and the backs seats came down on both for large items, and im pretty sure 4 door do to
unscrew the pipe fluid line unscrew 2 bolts,remove ,apply some good grease on the end ball and on fork hole of the new cylinder, install new one by screwing 2 bolt before you tighten them screw the the pipe half way then tighten the 2 bolts then tighten the fluid pipe ,so that you dont have no leaks after wards ,bleed the system slowwly verry well,then you will gain
1.5 or 1.6 its diffrent try autozone.com they have online repair guides will be very helpfull to you Either 1.5L or 1.6L The firing order is 1-3-4-2. this is good from 88-00 SOHC engines.
No, it is not normal for a newer car to idle and shake rough. I have had the same problem with my car and all it required was a tune up and a change of the spark plugs. I work for General Motors as a Licensed Mechanic. I encountered a sitution on numerous occassions where one of two problems existed. First, if the alternator had been replaced and the harness (sensor array) had not been properly re-routed, vibration caused the injector set harness (back left of the fuel rail), to rub through on the alt. mounting bolt causing a short to groung on one of the injectors resulting in a misfire, excess O2 down stream, compensation through the O2 as a lean condition, and ultimately the IAC trying to compensate with increased air. The second most common problem resulting in over idle speen a vacuum leak into the intake. Either through the crank breather vent or failed phlenum gaskets. Either condition tends to flip the SES with a 'high idle' or 'rich mixture' fault.
yes, tailligths are the same years 96-99
== == == == Try MOTORLIT.COM.
1992 Honda Civics were fitted for R-12 from the factory, however if you're buying the car used, it may have been re-fitted for R-134. Best to take to an authorized A/C Repair shop if unsure.
This is what you do. Warning - You cannot see anything . You just have to use your hands and judgement.......and be prepared to get your hands dirty.
Open the front hood of the car. Between the steering fluid compartment and the headlight, there is a very small space for you to squeeze your hand in. Try to feel the wire and a rubber covering that goes to the headlight. Once you locate the wire pull the plug from the socket by pressing on the sides of the plug as you pull.
Once you do this, remove the same rubber covering which is provided to prevent water from entering the headlight. After you have removed the covering, locate the hinged metal clip that holds the bulb in place. By this point, you should be able to see it with a flash light. The clip is held in place by a little piece of metal. Press down on the clip to free it from the metal, and the clip will swing open like a gate.
BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE BULB, be sure to take note of how the bulb fits into the lamp; see how the old bulb's prongs are aligned. These bulbs are made to really fit only one way. I didn't pay attention when I took my old bulb out, and it took a while for me to figure out how to put the bulb in. There are three prongs. The center prong is UP.
Withe the gate open, the bulb comes right out. Get the new replacement lamp and follow the directions in reverse order. Be sure not to touch the glass part of your replacement bulb (read the instructions on your replacement bulb's box to find out why).
The rubber boot goes on after you have the bulb in and before yopu attach the connector. Mount it with the "TOP" up, that leaves the drain holes down. Seat the boot and make sure the three prongs have come through the center round hole. The attach the connector. If you get the boot hole location right in relation to the three bulb connector prongs, it will connect. Test that the lights work before you close the hood and clean your hands.
PS Don't buy those extra bright white lamps. They may increase your visibility but be sure that they are a bigger distraction to the oncoming traffic. Go with the old lamps. They are more street friendly....
for the driver's side headlight replacement, i found that sliding the steering fluid compartment off the bracket, it gives you pleanty of room to move around in there...i used a flat skrewdriver to bend the clip back a little and the container will slide right up
DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB WITH YOUR GREASY FINGERS!!!!! IT WILL EXPLODE!!! AT THE WRONG TIME!!!
I bought the fuse box cover as well as the small decal that shows all of the fuses at the local Honda dealer for my 92 Civic for about $10. Check with them. Don't forget that there are two fuse boxes for the 1993 Civic; one is below and to the left of the steering column, the other is in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger's side.
you will need an engine hoist (or something to hold your engine up because you will need to take off the engine mount on the drivers side to get to the belt cover off, so go rent one at pep boys or somewhere, and pick up an instruciton manual on how to change the belt, otherwise you will get some incomplete instrucitons like i did
You will need 2 days off in which if you don't have your car, you're safe.
You need the patience of a madman.
You need the phone to call the towing company and an auto mechanic when you've had about enough of it.
You need to stop being cheap, and just pay a professional.
Being handy is cool, but this is one thing that it's just not worth it...
pay someone to do it.
I've replaced TB's on my 92 and 98 civics. Yes, it's not easy but it is doable if you're an above average mechanic. Obviously, i cant go into all the details in this answer but here are some things to beware of. The flywheel pulley bolt is extremely tight and cannot be removed without a pneumatic wrench. make sure when you put the A/C idler pulley back on you put it on the same way it came off or you'll be buying a new one when you crush the pulley trying to tighten it. be prepared to replace all the drive belts when you do this as they all have to come off anyway. also Honda always recommends replacing the water pump in conjunction w/ the TB which i did both times (the TB drives the WP and if the WP seizes after you've gone to all the trouble to replace your TB your screwed). IMPORTANT!!! DO NOT ROTATE THE CAM SHAFT AFTER PULLING THE BELT!!!! Get a Haynes Manual for your car and follow the directions and you should be good. You can save 2-300 bucks by doing it yourself. I also recommend using Honda parts for something as serious as this. One last thing, check your engine mounts because the last time i did this my mounts were in need of replacement and i didn't have them so i recommend buying them (if you can return them w/ no penalty) as the driver's side mounts have to be disconnected to perform this job and are fairly easy to replace once your in up to your elbows. Good Luck, your Humble Home MechanicI have done this about 5 times on 1980 and 1998 Civic. You will definitely need some patience otherwise pay to have this done. The hardest thing about this job is getting the crank bolt out. This is how I did it. You need to stop the crank pulley from turning while you are trying to remove the crank bolt. 1.Use a chain wrench to hold the pulley. (Wrap the pulley with an old belt first so the chain wrench doesn't damage the pulley). 2. Get a big breaker bar. My neighbor is a mechanic and with our combined effort we got the bolt loose, barely. Use a good quality socket that won't break while you are pulling with all your strength for obvious reasons! 3. Expect the small woodruff key to fall on the ground when you remove the pulley. Be ready for this and don't lose the woodruff key. The last time I did this, I used an electric impact wrench and it was so much easier.
Additional comments. The dipstick tube needs to be removed. A few drops of penetrating oil where the tube enters the oil pan helped. Grab the tube with visegrips and wiggle it out. Don't clamp down too hard with the vise grip you don't want to crush the tube. There is also a clip that holds the tube to the lower cover and the clip can be pryed off with a screwdriver. There are 6 screws in the lower timing belt cover it takes time and patience to get them all out. I had to remove the A/C belt tensioner to get full access to the timing belt cover screws. DO NOT move the camshaft or crankshaft once the timing belt is off! Don't disturb the cam or crank when wiggling the new belt on. A hydraulic bottle jack under the oil pan can support the engine from the bottom when the engine mount bracket is removed (engine hoist would be better). Put a block of wood between the oil pan and jack so you don't dent the oil pan. I used a punch to make some marks just in case I disturbed the crank pulley. I also used some white out to mark some positions. This took 12 hours the first time. Now, I can do it in about 5 hours. Do not rush!
on any Honda I have ever owned it is a little black plastic pipe bent at a 90 degree angle behind the valve cover on the right side with a black rubber tube that goes to the intake manifold
A PCV is always located off the intake manifold its a black rubber hose and these are very inexpensive they are usually between $3-$12 depending on the car, make, model, ect. A easy way to check your PCV valve is to remove it from the rubber hose and shake it, if it makes a noise its fine as its a one way check valve. This is why it has a rubber hose connected to it because that is a vacuum line that comes off the intake manifold. The top of it will usually be made of a black plastic the bottom will be made of metal if its on an older engine which this type will go into the valve cover. If its all black and is bent at a 90 degree angle which they all usually are, it will be inserted into the crankcase of the engine instead of the valve cover. All this valve dose is recycle unburnt gases from the engine back into the intake manifold so that they can be burnt in the cylinders.
21 mm - dealership 23 mm - private garages, that's in Australia. Do not know about other countries.
I believe it is screwed to the engine block on the side facing the rear of the car just above the LH CV axle.
the pcv tube is between the intake manifold a little tube going into the engine. On the I4, it is located underneath the intake manifold, but slightly above the oil filter. It's difficult to see, but if you look from the driver's side through an opening under the intake manifold, you'll see a sensor. To the left of it and slightly below you should see the PCV valve. It's a little elbow with a clamp around it and a tube going out and will probably be covered in oil.
it could be a lot of things. start by checking your throttle position sensor and/or your spark plugs and spark plug wires. if you have a check engine light, you could take the car to auto zone and have them check for engine codes.
Remember to check your air filter too. You may be surprised! (simply remove the airfilter and check if the performance improves. If it does, change the filter).
If you have dual point injection, then try this. I had the same issue twice and both times I resolved it by spraying throttle body cleaner into throttle body and wiping the sensor clean..You have to hold the "butterfly" open while doing this
Check the Codes by yourself. Reach under the glove box, grab the 2 sets of wires/plugs tucked up inside there. one has a two prong, one has 4. if you put a paper clip in the two prong and turn the ignition to ON (don't start the car) the CEL will flash all the codes.
Most common issue will be a lack of vacuum, and or Ignition wire, plugs cap and rotor. for the rough uneven idle.
DO NOT TRY THE ABOVE!!!! if you do not know what you are doing dont try to clean your throttle plate/body. you need to make sure it is throttle body cleaner for fuel injection, you also need to be careful to not have the overspray or overflowing liquid get onto the exhaust manifold or anything hot because it is extremely flamable.
not sure what you mean by uneven idle. if the rhythm of the idle is off it may be misfiring, this could be caused by the ignition components like sparkplugs, plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition coil, or the whole distributor.
if the idle goes up and down, the most common problem maybe your IACV (idle air control valve)
but like stated before it could be numerous things and only by running a series of tests will you be able to find out. if you are knowledgeable with cars then try to see if you can eliminate the above issues, if not take it to a mechanic you can trust and have them check it out.
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