You need a manual to get all the torques and stuff right, but I'll give you the basics of it.
First, you never, ever change the timing belt alone. The water pump wears out at about the same rate as the timing belt, and you've got to remove the crank pulley to get the water pump, so change both at the same time.
Parts you will need:
Timing belt and tensioner.
Two gallons of Honda-compatible antifreeze--the special Honda Genuine brand is best. "Any make any model" antifreeze will also work. Hondas are nitpicky about the antifreeze you use in them.
Parts you should change at the same time:
Oil and filter
New radiator hoses
Any other belts--alternator, power steering pump and air conditioner, usually.
Tools you will need
Metric sockets and wrenches
400 lb-ft electric impact wrench and metric impact sockets
Floor jack and two jackstands, plus a block of wood
1. Jack up the driver's side and put the car on a jackstand. Remove the driver's side wheel. Unhook the battery. Remove the dust covers under the car if you still have them.
2. Remove the valve cover and rotate the engine until the "up" arrow on the cam pulley's pointing up
3. Remove all the belts, covers, etc. from the engine you can get to. Drain the coolant. Save it for recycling.
4. Make sure the "up" arrow is still pointing up.
5. Use the impact wrench to remove the bolt holding the crank pulley on. (This is the hardest bolt to remove in the whole car. If you don't have or can't get an impact wrench, don't even attempt to do this job because you won't be able to.)
6. Remove the cover you couldn't get to before.
7. Remove the old water pump and replace it with the new one. You will have to swap the pulley to the new one--they don't come with pulleys.
8. Check to be sure the arrow on the cam pulley is still pointing up. Remove the tensioner. Check the marks on the crank to be sure they're lined up. (At this point the cam pulley will have fallen into the right place, so as long as it's still pointing up you're golden.) Then remove the belt, put the new one where it goes, and install the new tensioner. Get the tension set right, then put the crank pulley bolt back in. Turn the engine over two revolutions. Did you feel anything hitting or hear any clanging in the engine? If you didn't you did good. If you did, you have to put the belt back on.
9. Put the lower timing belt cover back on, then the crank pulley (torque to 220 lb-ft; it will get tighter as you go along) and then all the rest of the parts in your car.
10. Look at the thermostat housing. There's a thing that looks like a bolt with a hole in it. That's your coolant bleeder. Open it and fill the radiator with coolant until coolant comes out of the hole in this bolt, then tighten the bolt. Put the radiator cap back on. Top up the coolant bottle.
11. Change the oil and spark plugs if you got new ones.
12. Hook the battery back up, put the wheel back on and set the car on the ground.
13. Try to start the car. If it starts, you're finished.
the best way is to bring it up and back along the firewall accross the back of engine to the right side and up by air filter out of the car.
50$ if you do it your self which isn't to hard baring you have the right tools. mostly a 36mm socket to remove cv nut, free at autozone. good luckk
Whole headlight or bulb? Bulb, just undo the retaining clip and pull out the bulb. No twist on this bulb, just straight out.
Get a light in to see the retaining clip. It has a tab to one side which you can pull and wiggle to release. It then swings away from the backside of the bulb.
OK - but undoing the wire is a bit challenging sometimes, you have to press hard on the sides of the wire clip by inserting your fingers in between the clip and the rubber seal (note the headlight will feel loose). Headlight, 4 bolts hold it in place, 2 on the top, 1 underside left and 1 underside right. DO NOT TOUCH THE BULB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
To retain proper spring rate and handling, one should keep the springs within chassis year ranges (i.e. 88-91, 92-95, 96-00, 01-05, etc.). Any Civic model within those year ranges should share springs with other submodels within the same year ranges.
install 88-91 springs in any 1992-00 civic and you will retain factory ride quality with about 2.5" of lowering. Your camber adjustment will be out just like lowering springs though.
It should be the same way as the 90 and 91 just a clip holds the light in
1-3-4-2 distributor rotates clockwise. http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-9312.htm
it is a sealed transmissionRight Answer1.open hood.2.stand at front of car facing the engine.3.bend at waist (for proper mechanich's back straining techniques).4.with your nose approximately 1 foot above the valve cover (where you add oil), rotate head to the left and look between the air filter housing and distributor cap (spark plug wire ends) with a flashlight, you should see an orange colored short dipstick.....note....must be checked about 1 min. after driving for about 5 min.(so the transmission fluid will be hot). also make sure you are on level ground.
Hey Varghese==Go to Auto Zone and have the codes read free and that will gine you some help on what is not functioning properly. goodluck, Joe My '98 HX check engine light turned on and I found I'd been driving with low oil level. Oops! Put some oil in, and a few days later I noticed that the light had gone out (it stayed lit for several days). Either the light burned out, or the problem went away. It's been more than a year and after 95,000 miles I've still had zero problems with the car. Multiple "faults" can cause the check engine light to activate. Probably the most common cause is leaving your gas cap at the station or not tightening it fully. However, in my experience as civics grow long of tooth they most often throw a code for a bad Oxygen sensor. These are sometimes difficult to replace as they generally are seized into their threads due to the heating and cooling cycle over the years. You'll also normally need a special socket or wrench to change them out. Back to the codes. If you have a Haynes manual (highly recommended if you're going to work on the car yourself) it'll show you how to jumper the computer connection under the passenger side dash with a paper clip to which will cause the check engine light to flash a code corresponding to the computer fault. Good Luck, your Humble Home Mechanic
Just in front of the air filter, there is a metal pipe with rubber hoses on each end (the breather hose). Just under the bend in the pipe, there is another small black hose (a few inches long). This hose connects the intake manifold to the PCV valve, which is located on the back of the eninge just under the intake manifold. Just follow the hose.
It's possible it's sucking hot air from the engine compartment. If you've got a stock air intake - see if you can't find a better location for the intake below the filter box. Obviously hotter air means less density, means less air, means less power.
It sounds like your car may be getting a to hot(overheating).
Check fuel pump relay plug/switch (not sure of location on '95 but located on '92 model under dash near fuse box on driver's side). Heat from inside the car, over time, may have degraded connections which is noticeable on warm/hot days.
Check the ignitor inside the distributor. If the car shuts off after driving all of a sudden, then its most likely the ignitor. Most people replace the whole distributor for about $250, but the ignitor can be bought for around $110.
also, depending on the mileage, you may need to do a fuel and emission system tune up (refer to your owners manual). PCV, EGR, O2 sensor(costly), etc.... those hot emmission gases are recycled and burned again for economical reasons.
this is a bad main relay. common Honda problem
It is a big job requiring lots of work. If you want to tackle it go to a parts store and get a manual on your car and it should show you how.
Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"
I am just working on my Civic 1997 and I have found it on the reservoir. On mine the reservoir is on the left side under the fender. You have to remove the fence. Then I saw the reservoir, I pull on the pump which is just fit in a rubber ring. Sorry for my English.
The relay center should be in hte engine compartment. Once you open the hood and are facing the front of the car look to the back left by the hood hinge. You should see a black box that has a diagram on it. Take the cover off and use the diagram on the cover to pinpoint which relay is the horn. Hope that helps.
Yes, there's a fuse + relay box in the engine bay, but that's not where the horn relay is.
Horn relay is on the under-dash fuse panel. Left (driver's side, in the USA) side of car. Horn relay is way up at upper edge of the panel, mounted on a tab so it's sort of off the edge of the panel. Relay has a gray housing with a 4-wire connector going to it. Squeeze tab on the connector lets you pull it off the relay. Squeeze tab at base of relay lets you pull it off the panel base.
The truth is you should probably go to the dealer to get diagnosed because it could be the motor (regulator) or a short somewhere in the line.
The door is easy to get to and fairly simple wiring; I recently fixed my stereo and had to take door panel off to access the mids. Buy a manual and continuity tester and with some patience you can track the short. There are also 2 relays (a up and down relay) that lock or unlocks the door.
Some Civic have 2 Oxygen sensors both located on the exuast manifold.First is located about 6-10" below where the exaust manifold comes from the front of the engine. Find the proper metric wrench (Only when the engine is cool) unplug the wire to the sensor and turn in a LEFT turn direction.Second sensor if equipped is on the exuast pipe under the cab of the car.Same as above applies.
dude i would always get the manifold shield off first then run the car to heat the manifold off cus it will expand the metal to make the sensor easier to remove.....
Actually if you look at the back of the headlight you will see an arangement of platic gears ... by turning those gears you can ajust the light possition. How exactly you might go about setting it right is up to you. Cheers, JFL
This can be found in your owners manual. If you do not have one, I suggest you get one at a Salvage yard or order one from the dealer. 45 litres or 11.9 US gallons.
I am presuming that you mean the check engine light on the dash.
Under the hood by the battery is a fuse box. Remove the 7 amp back-up fuse for at least ten seconds and then put it back in. The top of the fuse box should tell you which fuse this is (it is next to the wall of the fuse box on the side next to the battery).
You remove the 7.5 amp back-up fuse (for at least ten seconds) from the underhood fuse box beside the battery. The cover of the fuse box will show you which fuse (it is labelled 'back-up (radio)', and unlike what I said yesterday, is in the fuse box on the side just next to the firewall.
Resetting check engine light on 97 Honda Civic. The check engine light came on and apparently, my gas cap was loose. Replaced the cap w/ new cap from autozone (in case the seal on the cap was faulty), but the engine light stayed on. Followed the instructions on removing the 7.5 amp fuse and like magic...the engine light disappeared. Saved me at least 100 bucks.
Be careful though because sometimes if the light is off it is still on inside your ecu.. as long as everything is ok in your car the ecu will reset itself during a complete drive cycle..which is around 150 - 200 miles.
my hood latch did the same thing, and i found the only way to make it catch is by manually pushing the hood release button BACK IN before closing the hood and then it seems to work fine
If you have to manually push the release back in to operate the mechanism, you have one of two problems. The spring on the hood latch is broken or the hood latch or release cable is corroded and sticky. Locate the hood latch near the radiator and spray it liberally with a penetrating lubricant, visually check to see if the return spring is broken. If the spring is good and the lubricant doesn't fix the problem you will need to replace the cable, which looks much like the brake cables on a bicycle.
Yes 92-00 Honda springs are interchangeable
Tania Gunadi... She's also from an episode of it's always sunny in philadelphia...
Wrong girl or wrong commercial Tania Gundai is in the Nissan "I'm a Ninja" commercial!
My '97 EX 2-door coupe does not. It has a power outlet below the radio, just above the cassette player.
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