If it is a 5 speed the shift fork may be bent of the cable may be stretched or broken. If it is a automatic the passing gear cable may be unhooked or in need or adjustment.
: First have always a #10 and 14 wrench. Take the distributor out and have a towel or rag to clean some oil drips. Place it aside and just beneath you will see the sending unit. Sometimes it is just a matter of replacing but the gauges can be already fatigue. However the sending unit is your cheapest beginning. be careful with the plug when disconnecting.
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Try cleaning out the drains on the corners and make sure the drain tubes are clear. Otherwise, replace the seals.
If it does not start it is missing either spark, fuel under the proper pressure , compression or the timing of the ignition or the camshafts are incorrect. Start by determining what is present, check for spark, proper fuel pressure, engine compression.
Youve just redone the thermostat
Just a note: I had a buddy who wanted to help. so he tightened the thermostat housing and cracked it. the torque specs for my '90 was 13 ft/lbs or so. It should be around the same for the 89. Just don't reef on the housing bolts.
Should, but you need to swap the seat pans
The CRX HF normally had an "HF" emblem on the rear right panel, directly to the right of the hatch. The HF also had an 8 valve, 1.5 liter engine with Multi-Point fuel injection.
Answer In my case just by installing a new head gasket was enought bucause if air is seeping it will reflect with that diagnose
There is an air leak somewhere between the throttle plate and the intake valves. What's happening is this: your car is designed to run on a perfect "stoichiometric" ratio of air to fuel. IIRC it's 14.5 parts air to one part fuel. If more air gets in than is supposed to, your O2 sensor will see the mixture getting lean and start adding fuel to compensate--which, of course, makes the car run faster. Eventually, your fuel injection computer will look at the RPM the engine's running at, look at the throttle position, decide there's no damn way an engine with a closed throttle should be turning 2800rpm, and cut off the fuel to slow the engine back down...and the cycle begins again. Idle hunting actually tells us two things: air's getting in where it's not supposed to, and your induction system is working fine other than that because if it wasn't, you'd just lean out the engine until it self-destructed. Now understand, there are a lot of good suggestions in this thread...but when you do one of them, you'll also go around with your screwdriver and tighten all the screws in the system, which is what fixes the problem. (Besides, you need a new O2 sensor anyway. Replacing it saves gas, and you've seen the price of it lately.)
Be aware that these leaks can be tricky--I've seen leaky fuel injector seals do it. But start with the U-shaped pipe that runs from the air cleaner box to the throttle body--especially the clamp at the bottom that's impossible to get to.Answer
Vaccumm line leakingAnswer
i have owned a crx for two years and the one thing i did to fix a jumpy idle was change out my O2 sensor (located before the cat). when you add exaust (headers included) to a car the O2 sensor reads different than it is supposed to, it also gets dirty much faster.Answer
This can be related to an item called the EACV, a tubular unit mounted on the back of the inlet plenum, by the throttle body. There are two water hoses and a multiplug going into it. It is held onto the plenum by two bolts.
Undo the multiplug and the two bolts and you should be able to pull the EACV sufficiently far away from the plenum to be able to clean it out with some carb cleaner. Make sure you don't lose the figure of eight O-ring that seals the unit to the plenum. Bolt it back on and plug it back in.
Hopefully that should solve the problem.
The MAP Sensor. Mass Air Flow Sensor sounds like your not getting enough air causing it to idle up and down. I had the same problem on my Accord.Answer
The most common solution to an unstable idle (particularly cold) on a crx is the throttle cable is adjusted to tightly. I know it sounds bogus but it used to happen all the time on the crx's due to the cable's insulation getting old & hard.Answer
i have an 86 si with same problem. I adjusted the idle to specs and adjusted timing and prob went away. The correct timing at idle is a must.
The person referring to the EACV is most likely correct. It's actually a wax throttle control. Over time the may become to sticky and get stuck open. Had it been an O2 sensor, you would experience other driving issues: slow take-off, surges @ cruise speeds and so forth.
is a unit call Idle air control valve, i race my crx with a jdm 1.6 dohc vtec, and most Honda have that unit located behind the intake manifold. the radiator fluid run thu it. if u follow a very small like 3/8 size hose is back there.
clamp down both hose so u won't lose any coolant.
take both hose off, unplug wire harness
then take the unit off, u see a rubber gasket take that off.
use carb cleaner spray both port. let it sit for a min then dump out the cleaner, then
use air spray inside then spray it with carb cleaner again, until u see a white color plastic and everything look clean.
use little bit of gasket sealant around the gasket, place the sensor back on. let the sealnt dry up. i would wait about an hour. plug everything back in.
then it should fix the problem, but if it doesn't then replace the unit, its almost a 200 unit. so its not cheap.
and other thing too, make sure u have no air bubble and also not low on coolant.
now its fix! and there's nothing do with your o2. u can also able to lift the floor up by passenger side front, and u see a metal plate bolt to the floor, the ecu its right there
and see any code coming on, it should be a flasher red led light thu a sight glass.
code 14 its iacv. flash 1 long, 4 short.Answer
Another strong possibility is that your coolant is low. Low coolant screws with the temperature sensor, which in turn screws with the ECU. The ECU, seeing an alternating hot/cold condition, responds accordingly by flipping the engine back and forth between hot and cold loop. As cold-loop requires more fuel (because it's assuming that the engine is cold, and therefore needs to run rich until it warms up), the car revs as the mixture richens and then leans out.
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Passenger side. Look down where the transmission meets the motor. You'll see what looks like a green beer can on its side. That's the starter.
changing the clutch is the same as other honda, you take off the nuts on both axle, remaove the shock the camber, reamove the axle, remove the bolt from the tranmission and then remove the tranmission from the egnine, the clutch is attech to the engine. remove the clutch and put in the new one and then put every thing that you take off back that it is should take about 4 hours...
Before dropping the transmission you should have disconnected the battery for you will also need to remove the starter, the speedometer as well as the axles. It is a good idea to disconnect the shiftlinkage at this time too. With the car on stands and all above done you can disconnect the trans mount and lower it on a jack before unbolting it from the engine you have the choice to disconnect the front and rear motor mounts and support the motor with a jack. this will angle the motor and make for removing the trans a little bit easier.
You have to add the fluid directly into the transmission. Towards the top of the transmission (driver side, underneath the car) there is a fill plug, I believe it is a 14mm 6hex bolt. On the same side, near the bottom of the transmission, there is a drain plug also. At any rate, to fill the transmission you will need a funnel, and a good length of tubing (atleast 3ft). Run the tube from the top to the underside of the car. Then go underneath, and position the tube into the fill hole. Get out from under the car, and fill, until the fluid just starts leaking from the fill hole (if you're working on level ground, but if you're using jack stands, account for that and put in a little extra). Viola! Make sure to use a new crush washer and put the fill plug back on.
Impact gun in reverse :)
make sure the steering wheel isn't locked
The Crx was just bad timing really. Also, at the time it was impractical, u.s. models were two seat only and had horrible crash ratings. I have seen several torn two bits whereas others cars of the time would have seen minor damage. Poor sales. Agree, the market for this type of vehicle was bad at the time, but the car is still classy today. CRX has a little tank that went empty fast making people think bad milage. Just bad timing after the gas crunch in the 70s/80s. ANSWER Actually, Honda did make CR-X for awhile, the DEL SOL was a Civic CR-X del sol in japan. Then Honda Hybrid was the 3gen CRX at first, but decide made it to hybrid. then they quit making them. actually they are talking about bring the CRX back. but its not practical now, people want a car with more room, good gas mileage and last long. yea CRX gas tank its small, i have a JDM 1.6 dohc vtec motor in mine, go from 105hp si US model to 158hp Japan motor and able to rev up to 8300rpm. fun, but gas don't last, still get 30mpg. Japan model CR-X Si and CR-X SiR CR-X Si come with a 1.6L DOHC NONvtec engine produce 130hp CR-X SiR come with a 1.6L DOHC vtec engine (same engine in 1999-2000 civic si except it have 10.2:1 compressor ratio, instead 10.4:1) with a short gear ratio tranny some equip LSD which both wheel accel/spin. Have a taller hood, single light bulb, clear color corner light, amber bumper light that wrap around the bumper, Sun roof its glass, Both mirror its power folding, it have a back seat. Some model even have recarao racing seat or leather/heated seat. Why can't we get some real japan spec car here?????
The firewall, to to upper left corner, behind intake. On '84-87 models, it is typically located under the 1/4-panel just past the fuel fill.
This should help. On a SOHC D-series it should be pretty easy. The DOHC engine is a bit more tricky, the B-series trickier still. But as long as you stick to the instructions you should be fine.
D series are very easy. make sure go ahead get new timing belt and tensioner, new head stud.
basically just remove the rear wheels, spray wd-40 on the wheel studs. then start hitting the drum with a hammer (be careful not to damage wheel studs) to brake loose the rust. after a couple of good whacks start hitting the drum from behind and it should pop right off..
The correct way to remove the drum is to remove the wheel, and then, you will see two small holes in the drum. You need to find a bolt that is a couple inches long that fits the threads in these holes. I do not remember the bolt size or thread patter. You then tighten the bolts into those two holes and they will evenly push the drum off of the hub. Normally hammering on the drum will loosen it up enough to remove, but you must be careful. If it is really stuck you must use the bolts.
located on fuse box under dash
first, with engine cold and off. second,take radiator cap off and disconnect top radiator hose from the radiator side and guide the top hose disconnected end toward ground. third, turn engine on and the heater. four, rev the engine to about 1500-2000 rpm. as the engine temperature gauge neeedle move up about minimum 1/4"(warm temperature) you should be able to see warm to hot water shoot out of the disconnected end of the hose 15 to 30 seconds at a time. that is the tell sign of thermostat opening(water shooting out) closing(water stop). if water does not shoot out with temperature gauge reading past half mark, check to see water moving inside the radiator filler hole. if no movement, water pump is defective. hope it helps. could also be the head gasket. I've had 7 CRX's and 3 of them had h/g failures. check for water/oil mixing, or coolant loss from a constantly overfull overflow bottle. ANSWER themstat cost 15bucks, replace it, its a good idea anyway, and its very easy to replace usually water pump go back, it make noise around that area, and also leak fluid around there. if u over heat at dead stop but cool of while it drive. then u have fan not coming on problem. if it just won't stop over heat no matter what speed u at, usually are themostat. if u rev up u see temp go down or high, water pump,
Depending on whats wrong, to change the glass you need to pop the inside door cap off to locate the the window that is underneath the panel. Then if it needs to be changed then its fairly simple on figuring out on how to remove it. Good Luck.
FOR DP-FI SYSTEMS The easy eay is to unbolt the alternator and let it sit for a minute. Now literally give the Honda a hug... put your left arm down the left side of the intake and then underneath it. Now grab the alt. with your right hand. Wiggle the stupid thing around until it can be passed from right hand to left hand, under the intake and out the other side. This takes a lot of wiggling and turning, but it is possible. I just did it last week.
For MP-FI SYSTEMS This one is a little more cooperative. Unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster and shove it over to the left. Alternator will now come straight up.
Have patience. This job is truly a pain in the taillight socket. I've got 2 CRX's and I had to do this 3 times already...
You could also drop the drivers side cv shaft and it will fall out.
under battery on trans if it's a manual trans, there isn't one.
If you ask a more specific question, I can help. What exactly is broken? Is it electric or power?
If it is electrical, you will need to take off the inside panel of the door. most door panels will pop in and out.
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