In most all cases first you must know whats leaking and next remove the old gasket seal or sealant and repair or replace that part's. , EzForJesus
It is possible to replace the rear main bearing seal without removing the engine in a rear-wheel drive vehicle such as the S10. First remove the transmission, drain the crank case engine oil, then remove the oil pan. You will need to loosen the crankshaft bearing cap bolts enough so that it will give you enough clearance to slide the old main seal off the back of the crank and then replace it with the new one.
Depending on where your leak is there are various ways to solve the problem. If it is a minor leak you can use a oil stop leak and it may do they job. If not most likely it is a bad gasket which will need to be replaced and properly sealed. If it is as bad as a cracked block then there isn't much you can do.
I had a Chevy s-10 & changed the rear main oil seal too. The 2nd time we did it I was informed by a better parts dealer that Chevy had a faulty design by putting a U seal and now has a O seal. The O worked great. what a concept!
Oh if you have an oil leak from the main seal yes it is possible to do but you DO NOT have to take the transmission out and DO NOT loosen that main crankshaft cap if you do and you don't put it back to torque specs you could blow your engine up or spin a bearing just take the motor mount bolts out lift the engine a little bit for the oil pan to clear the cross-member and take the 15-16 oil pan bolts out my suggestion is that u get a rubber gasket there easier to work with and you don't need any sealant
My room mate has an 86 S-10 4X4 Blazer and I initially thought the rear main seal was leaking. Then it started leaking real heavy, so I removed the skid plate under the motor to find that it was an Oil Pressure Switch that is located under the driver's side exhaust manifold (difficult to get to, to say the least). There was a normal oil sending unit on top and this huge OP Switch under it. The OP Switch has a weep hole, like a water pump has, that leaks oil when it goes bad. A very dumb idea IMHO.
Although I had to remove the exhaust manifold to replace it, it was still better than dropping the tranny to change a rear main seal so I was thankful. Look to the OP Switch first (on those S-10 Blazers) before tearing into the rear main. It might save you some trouble.
I sure don't know anything about oil leaks, but I do know one thing: do not ask BP as they do not know either.
The head or heads will have to be remove and inspected for cracks or warpage. You then replace the gasket and reinstall the head. Drain the oil and change the filter. Replace the thermostat and pour in fresh coolant. Unless you ran it hot or drove it for a long period of time in this condition you may be ok. If you just kept driving it then you will have damage to the rings and bearings an the engine may need an overhaul. Really depends on how long the engine was driven with a blown gasket.
I have never worked on a 1998 Civic but I have worked on a lot of Hondas. I have worked on 88,90,91,92,93 and a 95 Civics. the pcv are right under intakes.
To replace a motor mount ( it's recommended to replace all of them at once, due to the most costly part of the repair being the labor, the engine is actually unmounted and hoisted back up when finished ) it will cost roughly $130. for one, and usually will run about $520-550. for all four. Since motor mounts usually wear at about the same rate, it is not recommended to change one at a time.
that's a tough one.
it sounds to me like your woodriff key is loose, broken or missing.
cam and crank gear keeper bolts
could be coming loose or stripped.
may even be a bad cam shaft bearing.
or a crank shaft bearing.
oh. chain could be wrong size as well.
valve springs to stiff/not worn in maybe? they could be causing the cam to bind a little so the crank's compression is just yanking on the chain causing it to jump.
I'm sorry, you need to specify more info.. like, How do you know its the timing chain or belt (did not specify engine type) etc..
It won't jump time! (but once) Then it quites and most likely wipes out some valves in the process. Makes no difference if it is a overhead cam with a timing belt or an in block camshaft driven by gears or a timing chain set. Once it jumps time that's it until it' repaired. The cam and crank are either in time or they aren't. I resently repaired a 5.0L Ford (302 V-8) that had a problem like this and it turned out to be the distributor. The rotor drive flang on top of the distributor drive shaft that is timed to that camshaft and holds the "rotor button" had a broken weld and it would "skip" around the shaft on start ups and get to a point of out of time where it would not start or quite when being driven on the road. You could re-time the distributor and it would start and run fine for a short while then do it again. I finally took the cap back off and took hold of the rotor drive flang, minus the rotor button, with a large pair of "water pump" slip joint pliers and found I could rotate the rotor drive flang of the distributor shaft back and forth. Not " a good thing", at all! A reman'ed distributor from the Zone repaired it and she runs like a top. This sound more like the problem your asking about. There is not much probibility, AT ALL, your timing chain is actually "jumping" time. If it were to it would just quite and not crank again.
happened with my dads auto transmission.. it was shot and it wouldn't shift out of the 1st automatic gear, hence, not being able to accelerate over 20/ It could also be a tranmission tourque converter failing. Also could be a broken gear inside the tranny, which will not engage no matter what. I have one cause in mind, because it's often so obscure and difficult to diagnose, yet easy to fix. It's afflicted several cars I own. There are numerous possible causes, of course, like a coil that isn't feeding enough energy to the spark plugs, a choke that's stuck, a fuel pump that's not pumping, an electrical malfunction. But the one that comes to mind is a bad "sock' in the fuel tank. This "sock" is a toothpaste-tube-like fine screen in the fuel tank that is supposed to prevent small particles of junk from entering the fuel lines and the fuel pump. Over time, the pores of this thing can become absolutely restricted--I don't know whether it's a reaction to the gasoline, or whether it's a natural result of the material aging, or what. Result: Hardly enough fuel gets to the engine for it to run. And, of course, the faster you go, the more fuel you need, and the more noticable the restriction is. I've had this happen to two of my Fords, one of my Chevies, and a Buick that a friend had--though, at the time he had his problem, I didn't realize what it was, so we went through the usual routine of replacing fuel filters and fuel pumps. I'd say it happened to my Lincoln, too, but the sock in that car actually disintegrated and wound up being jammed to the carburetor's filter by the fuel pump. Yet in the case of the Lincoln, I couldn't get past 20 mph until the problem was solved by removing the tank, flushing it, reinstalling it, and installing an in-line filter between the tank and the fuel pump. In your case, if a sock is really the problem, I'd remove the fuel sending unit in the tank, chop the sock off, and install an in-line filter. Take this course if you've determined that the car is starving for fuel and you're sure the fuel pump isn't bad. One other possible symptom of this sock problem is observed when the car runs decently in cooler weather and starves for fuel in warmer weather. Another thing is, if you tried replacing your distributor cap and spark plugs. If you did not put them back on properly, the firing order is messed up and you'll have a hard time accelerating. Another cause could be a clogged, or partially clogged, catalytic convertor. Also, a collapsed interior wall of an exhaust pipe, in which case one might hear a whooshing sound as air tries to pass by the restriction.
Is the check engine light on? A bad speed sensor or possibly another sensor could keep the vehicle from up shifting or limiting speed to bring it home in "limp in mode" Possible bad catalytic converter.
Should be located just above the oil filter.
Honda Motors Inc received its name from it's founder Soichiro Honda.
Sources indicate the meaning of the name to be "original Rice Paddy".
No way can anyone tell you how to do this here in this space. It requires removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, and then removing the head. A very complicated job that requires skill, knowledge, and the proper tools. Buy a repair manual if you want to tackle this job.
i know the main relay is on the passanger side behind the glove box.take that out(just push in the sides it will come out) and look for a square black or brown box.its held on by a 10mm bolt.
1,3,4,2 starting at the lower left of the distributor cap and rotating clockwise. the cylinders are numbered 4,3,2,1 left to right.
Yes ive had a 97 and a 06 both 2 doors and the backs seats came down on both for large items, and im pretty sure 4 door do to
Depends. Sometimes it can be a safer route, sometimes cost effective, and sometimes not necessary. Many factors to consider. Is it an engine with many miles or other problems? Is the head cracked? If so, how is the head and what is the core charge? Is coolant mixed with oil? If it is, how long did this go on for? Rarely do I recommend a replacement engine when a head gasket blows. Provide more information and I can better answer this.
on newer cars 80's on up especially fwd cars and foreign cars you will most likely have to replace the head because these are typically made from aluminum alloys and do warp especially on 4 cylinder cars. for those that are bold and daring you can have your warped head" shaved" this will give you more horsepower but be warned! it may not be good for your particular car since this now puts the valves closer to your cylinders and a broken timing belt will cause your engine to blow in a un fixable way
Did you ever resolve this problem and replace your head gasket or the whole engine? We have the same problem on our 1992 Nissan SENTRA, with over 204,000 miles with a blown head gasket. The mechanic warns us that after replacing the head gasket that it could still cause us problems due to a cracked head and then be an oil hog. What ever happened in your situation? We are thinking of junking the car but its our sons and he's very attached to it. Please respond/help. Thanks!
a car with that many miles i would just go with the motor. a new head gasket will often cause pressure on already weak or worn parts in the lower part of the motor. resulting in engine failure
I ran into a similar problem with a 91 Isuzu trooper 4 cylinder that had blown the head gasket.
The gasket was 50 bucks or so and it took me about 10 hours to do the entire job from start to finish but it was worth it.
If your on the fence and need to pay someone for the work it may not be worth it to you. I did mine a year ago and it still is used daily today. The vehicle owes me nothing.
NO, who in there right mind would think that? Hello, just replace the head gasket!!!
Stock engine 127hp
ALOT OF AFTERMARKET PCV VALVE ARE USED BY MORE THAN ONE VEHICLE. KIND OF A UNIVERSAL FIX THROUGH MANUFACTURES. IT'S LISTED FOR YOUR CAR AT AUTO PARTS STORES BUT, PEOPLE WITH OTHER VEHICLES USE THE SAME PCV VALVE. MOST PEOPLE JUST PLUG IT OFF TO STOP VACCUUM WHEN IT IS NOT USED. OTHER VEHICLES BOTH ARE USED. LOOK AT OTHER PCV VALVES AT THE NEXT AUTO PARTS STORE YOU GO TO FOR A BETTER UNDERSTANDING. NOW PCV VALVES COME WITH THEIR OWN PLUGS DEPENDING ON APPLICATION. THE SECOND TAP CONNECTION OFF OF THE PVC VALVE IS USE FOR THE EVAP SYSTEM,THAT SYSTEM VENTS FUEL VAPOR BACK INTO THE ENGINE TO BURN AFTER ENGINE IS RESTARTED,IT IS AN EPA EMMISIONS ADD ON..........
1.5 or 1.6 its diffrent try autozone.com they have online repair guides will be very helpfull to you Either 1.5L or 1.6L The firing order is 1-3-4-2. this is good from 88-00 SOHC engines.
No, it is not normal for a newer car to idle and shake rough. I have had the same problem with my car and all it required was a tune up and a change of the spark plugs. I work for General Motors as a Licensed Mechanic. I encountered a sitution on numerous occassions where one of two problems existed. First, if the alternator had been replaced and the harness (sensor array) had not been properly re-routed, vibration caused the injector set harness (back left of the fuel rail), to rub through on the alt. mounting bolt causing a short to groung on one of the injectors resulting in a misfire, excess O2 down stream, compensation through the O2 as a lean condition, and ultimately the IAC trying to compensate with increased air. The second most common problem resulting in over idle speen a vacuum leak into the intake. Either through the crank breather vent or failed phlenum gaskets. Either condition tends to flip the SES with a 'high idle' or 'rich mixture' fault.
yes, tailligths are the same years 96-99
Push the odometer reset button in, hold it, turn on the key. It will flash a few times then go off.
This will reset the Maintenance Required light not the check engine light.
Disconnect the HOT side of the battery for a few seconds--then reconnect(will likely have to reset the radio stations, clock etc.)
This will require reentering radio access code and all radio stations as well. The fourth answer about removing the clock fuse is by far the easiest and quickest.
To turn off the back up light you must go to the engine compartment. Open the fuse box and remove the back up fuse for 30 seconds. That will take out the check engine light.
I have no idea what this will do, but whenever I've had the check engine light on the next answer has been the successful method on the 2000 Honda Accord.Is this the check engine light blinking upon startup or does it stay on steadily?Pushing the odometer light is for clearing the maintanance schedule warning, this occurs when you're starting up the car that the check engine light blinks 11 times or so, then goes out.
If the check engine light stays on while you put the car into motion, you have to check what triggered it, or if you believe the car is fine, then you remove the fuse from the passenger side fuse box, located under the dash next to the door hinge. When you open the passenger side door, right next to the door hinge you'll see a pannel there, pull it out, remove the fuse for the clock. Leave it out for 15 seconds then place it back.
If in doubt go to AutoZone, Strauss, Pep Boys, Advanced Auto Parts, or if you want to get screwed... go to the dealer. They will have you sitting there for 3 hours, laughing it up in the back, using your car to run and get Pizza and soda, then charge you and arm, leg and your first & second born for just removing a fuse.
This answer was the solution I found that worked. I finally found the cause of the problem after it came on for the third time. ( It came on 3 times over about a 2 year period) Changed the air filter and the problem went away. Everything I read said it would be the oxygen sensor, but it my case it was just a dirty air filter.
look in your owners manuel on how to reset your light because when it comes time for the hondas to have there oil change they sometimes have a button underneith the dash on the drivers side
The owner's manual tells you how to reset the Maintenance Required light not the check engine light.
We had our Caravan repaired last year with a product called ThermaGasket. We have put 35000 miles on the vehicle without any problems!
Most suggest around 60K
== Very important when changing a timing belt is to align marks and tension is correct. Its not just like changing a fan belt. Get it wrong and could cause thousands of damage to a modern motor.
I bought the fuse box cover as well as the small decal that shows all of the fuses at the local Honda dealer for my 92 Civic for about $10. Check with them. Don't forget that there are two fuse boxes for the 1993 Civic; one is below and to the left of the steering column, the other is in the rear of the engine compartment on the passenger's side.
on any Honda I have ever owned it is a little black plastic pipe bent at a 90 degree angle behind the valve cover on the right side with a black rubber tube that goes to the intake manifold
A PCV is always located off the intake manifold its a black rubber hose and these are very inexpensive they are usually between $3-$12 depending on the car, make, model, ect. A easy way to check your PCV valve is to remove it from the rubber hose and shake it, if it makes a noise its fine as its a one way check valve. This is why it has a rubber hose connected to it because that is a vacuum line that comes off the intake manifold. The top of it will usually be made of a black plastic the bottom will be made of metal if its on an older engine which this type will go into the valve cover. If its all black and is bent at a 90 degree angle which they all usually are, it will be inserted into the crankcase of the engine instead of the valve cover. All this valve dose is recycle unburnt gases from the engine back into the intake manifold so that they can be burnt in the cylinders.
I believe it is screwed to the engine block on the side facing the rear of the car just above the LH CV axle.
it could be a lot of things. start by checking your throttle position sensor and/or your spark plugs and spark plug wires. if you have a check engine light, you could take the car to auto zone and have them check for engine codes.
Remember to check your air filter too. You may be surprised! (simply remove the airfilter and check if the performance improves. If it does, change the filter).
If you have dual point injection, then try this. I had the same issue twice and both times I resolved it by spraying throttle body cleaner into throttle body and wiping the sensor clean..You have to hold the "butterfly" open while doing this
Check the Codes by yourself. Reach under the glove box, grab the 2 sets of wires/plugs tucked up inside there. one has a two prong, one has 4. if you put a paper clip in the two prong and turn the ignition to ON (don't start the car) the CEL will flash all the codes.
Most common issue will be a lack of vacuum, and or Ignition wire, plugs cap and rotor. for the rough uneven idle.
DO NOT TRY THE ABOVE!!!! if you do not know what you are doing dont try to clean your throttle plate/body. you need to make sure it is throttle body cleaner for fuel injection, you also need to be careful to not have the overspray or overflowing liquid get onto the exhaust manifold or anything hot because it is extremely flamable.
not sure what you mean by uneven idle. if the rhythm of the idle is off it may be misfiring, this could be caused by the ignition components like sparkplugs, plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition coil, or the whole distributor.
if the idle goes up and down, the most common problem maybe your IACV (idle air control valve)
but like stated before it could be numerous things and only by running a series of tests will you be able to find out. if you are knowledgeable with cars then try to see if you can eliminate the above issues, if not take it to a mechanic you can trust and have them check it out.
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