Its EASY! just connect the (usually green) wire to the negative post on the coil. Hook up the power wires and the illumination wire and ground for the tach wire and ur done its easy!
This entirely depends on the vehicle and the type of tach your referring to such as a add on tach or an OEM in dash tach. To explain how to install and OEM tach would take far to long. I would suggest a add on tach that mounts basically where ever you want to mount it. Most of these tachs explain the installation instructions. I personally recommend a tach by Autometer you can view their products on the web at the link below. , EzForJesus
Depends. Sometimes it can be a safer route, sometimes cost effective, and sometimes not necessary. Many factors to consider. Is it an engine with many miles or other problems? Is the head cracked? If so, how is the head and what is the core charge? Is coolant mixed with oil? If it is, how long did this go on for? Rarely do I recommend a replacement engine when a head gasket blows. Provide more information and I can better answer this.
on newer cars 80's on up especially fwd cars and foreign cars you will most likely have to replace the head because these are typically made from aluminum alloys and do warp especially on 4 cylinder cars. for those that are bold and daring you can have your warped head" shaved" this will give you more horsepower but be warned! it may not be good for your particular car since this now puts the valves closer to your cylinders and a broken timing belt will cause your engine to blow in a un fixable way
Did you ever resolve this problem and replace your head gasket or the whole engine? We have the same problem on our 1992 Nissan SENTRA, with over 204,000 miles with a blown head gasket. The mechanic warns us that after replacing the head gasket that it could still cause us problems due to a cracked head and then be an oil hog. What ever happened in your situation? We are thinking of junking the car but its our sons and he's very attached to it. Please respond/help. Thanks!
a car with that many miles i would just go with the motor. a new head gasket will often cause pressure on already weak or worn parts in the lower part of the motor. resulting in engine failure
I ran into a similar problem with a 91 Isuzu trooper 4 cylinder that had blown the head gasket.
The gasket was 50 bucks or so and it took me about 10 hours to do the entire job from start to finish but it was worth it.
If your on the fence and need to pay someone for the work it may not be worth it to you. I did mine a year ago and it still is used daily today. The vehicle owes me nothing.
NO, who in there right mind would think that? Hello, just replace the head gasket!!!
I believe it is screwed to the engine block on the side facing the rear of the car just above the LH CV axle.
That isn't something that the public can do, as far as actually accessing government records.
However, there are sites where people can post information about a license plate and information they have observed associated with it. One of them is dialmylicenseplate.com.
It is similar to those sites where you can post a phone number and say that it was a telemarketer or prank caller, to inform other people about it.
This must be common as it happened to my 2000 accord at 94K. It is covered by warranty up to 80K I think, and the cost at the dealer is $385. ($98 parts and 3 hours labor) If anyone knows how hard this is I would like to know too. Thanks
Changing the EGR valve is only part of the solution. There is a special reamer that is required to properly fix the problem. Carbon buildup in the EGR passages is the real problem. You have to drill out the EGR passage and insert a stainless teel tube and then replace the EGR valve. The parts and special tool are available from any Honda dealer although the tool may be on back order.
Actually the government forced Honda to cover this under warranty up to 150K miles now. There is a Honda service bulletin that address this: 98-081 issued March 18,2003. I had this done by my local dealer...they also give you a free oil change and replace the distributor and spark plug wires. I've had 2 mid 90's accords and had this problem on both of them around 120K miles. Good luck!
AFAIK, the 98-081 only covered 95-97. From 98-02 only covered 'til 80K mi.
I have had experence with a 98 saturn, but I was told it is the same with a 94. You cannot remove the motor only. 1. Take off wiper arm assy both sides. 2.remove plastic covering to expose wiper motor, between windshield and fire wall, open the hood its alot easier. 3. there should be two bolts holding the wiper motor/arm assy. They are beside each wiper actuator. Remove them. 4. Now the top portion of the dash (dash Pad) snaps off. There may be two screws in the center holding it on. Remove all and take off top portion of dash. This is just a cover. 5. Pull back the air duct around the area where the wiper motor is and you will see two bolts. (***edit*** It's possible that you need to cut a piece of isolating material that is covering these two bolts. It's a lot easier if you actually completely remove the air duct : 2 small screws on each side next to the winshield and at the bottom, the base it is only clipped. On my 1995 I could not access the 2 bolts without removing the air duct ***edit***) Take them off and the whole assy comes off. 6. The motor comes off the assy really easy. If you got this far, trust me, you will figure out the rest. good luck
Expanded answer :
On my 1995, It was not possible to take out the assembly right after taking off the 2 bolts underneath the air duct. I had to separate the motor from the mechanism assy to be able to take the 2 pieces one after the other. the motor is fixed to the mechanism by 3 bolts positioned in a triangle around the rotor and one on the rotor itself.
Once you have removed the motor, it's worth to verify that that the mecanism isn't seized (jammed), in my case, the mecanism was completely jammed and most likely this is why the motor died in the first place. You can put somme effort on it to remove the rust and lubricate it correctly otherwise you may have to change the motor again in a couple of months. The mechanism is worth twice as the motor so you it's up to you to change it as well or not. --Nien
Added.. These instructions apply perfectly to a 98 SL2. The only thing to note is that I was not able to get the air duct totally out without flexing it more than I wanted to ( it was COLD) but I removed the 2 screws, reached down and unclipped the 2 clips on the bottom and then I was able to lift it up then slide it to the right. Now there was plenty of room. Behind the duct there was a small piece of inulation covering those nuts, I pushed it aside, went in with a 10mm deep socket and short extension, and in 3 minutes I had the wiper motor out..after 2 hours of head scratching trying to get those bolts out from the engine side of the firewall :-) I had already removed the three screws holding the wiper motor to the mechanism so I can't say if it would come out intact but either way, that's not a problem, the secret is those 2 hidden nuts.
Follow up ..... I was NOT able to put the bracket assy with the motor AND the arm installed back into the car, there was no position I could find that allowed the whole thing to fit. I took only the arm off the motor ( 1 nut), ( leaving the motor secured with the 3 screws) and then it was simple to install the whole assy, tighten it into place, then put the arm and it's retaining nut back on. Just make sure you mark the shaft so you can put the arm back in the right place.
Many thanks to those posting, this was a great help.
Another Followup..........Another thanks to posters for making the uninstall easier. After removing the assembly in one piece which was not easy as the mechanism was stuck in the 1/4 position. I had to use a screw driver and force the arm to turn far enough to remove.After removal I noticed that the motor was slightly loose. Further examination revealed that the retainer bolts holding the assembly to the motor were backed out far enough so that they caught the radial arm and would allow no farther movement. Ater tightning the bolts I replaced the electric plug and turned it on just laid out on the cars motor. It worked! Afew loose bolts caused the whole thing.
It is correct that the computer controls most of the timing on a 94 civic, however it is very necessary to have the base timing set correctly. If the base timing is off, your car will not pass smog, as this is a requirement (found this out today... 2 failed smog checks).
To set the timing you must first find the jumper wires underneath the passenger side of the dash. Usually there is a blue connector. You hook these two wires together, using a paperclip or some conductive material to place the engine into base timing (it factors out the computer completely). From there you use a timing light like you would normally. sensor to #1 plug wire, power to battery. There are timing marks on the crankshaft pully. Point the light at the pulley and pull the trigger, then adjust the distributor to get the timing to specs (my car is 12 + or - 2 degrees btdc).
Not entirely certain about this one but on most cars you can look up from under the front bumper and if you can see the hood latch you should be able to use a screwdriver or a pliers to trip the latch.
The "1.5 liter" is the engine size. The Prius gas tank holds 11 gallons.
I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and have had the car in 4 times with the SRS light on--every time their computer says to replace the passenger side seat belt. Every time, the light comes on the first time a passenger is in it; I take it back, they do something, the light goes out, but comes on again in a month or so. It is on again right now. I have asked them to query Honda about this, but I do not think the dealer is being honest about this, because it keeps being a problem. I recently replace the battery on my 2000 Honda Odyssey. When I restarted the van, my SRS light came on and stayed on. I told the dealer the battery story and asked if it just needed to be reset. They said no. The dealer says I need a new "unit". This is around $300. I have a hard time believing this as I have never seen this light before and all of the sudden, my SRS is on after replacing the battery. My step dad says that I should try to take the hot wire off the battery and leave it off for 15 minutes then put it back on. As soon as I get my van back, without a new "unit", I will try this! If your SRS light is on due to a faulty seat belt switch Honda foots the bill!! Go to another dealer. Answer 2 Fix SRS for Free I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey. Several months ago, the SRS light came on and stayed on. Recently I called Goudy Honda in Alhambra, CA to reset the light. They told me it would cost $ 95 for compute check. After they checked it, they told me they need to fix a side air bag chip and everything is free. I am very surprised.
You might also have a bad switch. Temp sensor should be o.k. if the engine temp. goes and stays at normal and the upper and lower heater hoses are hot.
Most technicians refer to the idler pully for the timing belt as just idler.
Change the fuel filter and if that doesn't do it have the cat convertor checked out. fuel filter in tank one unit run you about 250. bad cat can be determined by a rotten egg smell from exhaust
10w30 motor oil is sufficient, but for longevity you wuold want to go with hondas brand of manual transmission oil
actually u need to put 80w 90 gear oil in ur tranny only about a quart and a half
steal signal from the white wire w/ black sripe on the bottom plug of ecu.
new bulb, check fuse. i can't see any wires to that light just becoming faulty so... try those two.
pull the wheels off and on the studs there is two loskrings that hold the drum on during assembily.remove these and the drum should slide off. if not go to the back of the drum and at the lower part of the backing plate you will see a rubber gromet. pull it out and use a brake spoon to adjust the shoes enough to slide the drum off.
Get a shop manual at AUTOBOOKSONLINE.COM. They have check out charts etc. this is especially important if you intend to do a lot of work on your car and don't want to mess something up.
Just to save you some time... Just go buy a used one for $150-$200.Don't attempt to repair it, you are most likely just wasting your time.
The D series distributors are considered a weak link in the Honda world. The most common problem in these is the ignition module inside the distributor. Honda mechanics often call it an igniter. Remove the cap and rotor button first, followed by the dust cover. The igniter has four wires running into it and can be removed by taking out the two screws running through the distributor housing. They are usually located towards the bottom. Make sure the battery is disconected before removing any of the wires connected to it. This part usually sells for around ninety dollars at your local dealership. Don't buy one from a discount parts house, they're worthless. Also, most Honda techs will recomend replacing the coil too because these two parts often fail at the same time or one going bad will also cause the other to fail. Of course you should make sure the spark plugs and wires are good first, and that the engine ground cables are attached and not corroded. I'm assuming you have already done this. good luck.
You need to replace the electronic ignition coil located inside the distributor. maybe your coil is already busted.
There is a rubber plug at the wiper arm joint. Take a small screwdriver and remove the rubber plug. There is a hex nut (11mm)that will be exposed, remove the hex nuts. You can then remove the wiper arm from the motor. There is a small rubber hose that connects to a swivel joint on the rear door, be careful, but you can remove this hose, and then the wiper arms can be removed. This will allow you to remove a plastic hex nut, that is under the rear wiper arm. Remove the plastic nut from the wiper motor. You then need to open the rear glass from the rear hatch. Look inside where the glass latches to the rear hatch. There is a Phillips head screw that connects the rear inner plastic pannel to the rear hatch, remove this screw. Now, in the strap that you use to pull the rear hatch down, there is a torques head screw, that holds this strap to the rear hatch, you need to remove this screw. Start at one of the outer corners of the inner plastic pannel and pull the pannel away from the hatch. Really only the right corner of the pannel needs to be pulled away, but you may want to remove the whole pannel. You will see the upper wiper motor in the right hand corner of the hatch. ther is one connector that is easy to see and remove, you have to pull up on a plastic clip to remove this connector. The other connector does not need to be removed, what will come out with the motor. You can now see three screw that hold the motor to the hatch. Remove these three screw and remove the motor from the hatch. Just a word of caution, be sure that the motor is bad, before you go to all of this work. Check the fuse at the end of the dash, on the drivers side, it is a 15 amp fuse. Check and make sure that the rear wiper switch (on the dash) is also working. You may want to plug the new motor into the wire for the motor, and see that it functions correctly before you remove the old motor. Good luck Joe
1. For your own safety, put stoppers on the other 3 wheels. DO NOT put the foot (hand) brake on or you will have difficulty in removing the brake drum. 2. jack and remove the wheel. 3. pull the drum off and rock and tap slightly if there are rusts or debris that preventing the drum pull out, no hammer is necessary! There are two 8x1.25mm threaded bolt holes in each drum that you can run bolts through and it will push off the drum. Just changed my rear brake shoes last weekend and this worked perfectly to get the rusty drums loose.
Youre going to replace the headlight assembly. in back of them theres 2 butterflies that come of then you tiltitto left and pullet and ill come out then dis connecxt the light w/the bulbs.then replace them connect the light bulbs and put together and tight them up again it that easy.
This car is equipped with a safety lever on both rear doors. They are meant so children cannot open the doors from the inside. Open the door and look for the child safety lever. It is sometimes hit by accident and that sets the door on safe mode. Just slide the lever opposite to where it is and that should take care of your problem.AnswerUsually, there's a rod that connects from the door latch mechanism over to the exterior door handle, which is just held in place with the same type of plastic retainers that hold doorlock and doorlatch bars to the interior door handle. Getting to it's a bit tricky, tho. Make sure the window's all the way up, then remove the door panel - procedure: Remove the cover from the front lower armrest (tight, but just pops off)to expose two screws. Remove these, as well as the one inside the interior doorlatch cup, just behind a small cover piece. Detach the interior handle from the two bars, and remove. Pop the door panel free starting at one of the bottom corners, working your way to the top. Lift the panel up once it's free to get it off the window seal.
Now, look inside the door, near the outside. You'll probably see the inner workings of the outside door handle. Try moving the handle from the outside, and look for a plastic bar that moves with the handle with a hole in it. See it? Well, there should be a metal bar attached to it. Check over above the doorlatch assembly deep in the back of the door (it's way back there!), and you'll probably find the offending bar just flopping around. You'll need either a magnet rod or some seriously flexible fingers to reach it, but go get it. Should have a 90 degree elbow at the end of it, bout an inch's worth protruding from there. That end is what needs to be connected to the door handle's plastic arm.
If you're lucky, there will still be a plastic retaining latch seated in the hole in the door handle's arm. If so, reinsert the metal bar there, clip it back in place, and you're done. More likely, it's either missing or broken (which is why you're fixing it in the first place). Run by your friendly neighborhood Honda dealer and grab a replacement.
If anything is different than what I've described, then you're in for a headache... as to investigate or remove either the handle or doorlatch assembly would require removing the entire window assembly, as well as some of the door itself. If adventurous, go for it. Otherwise, pay a shop a visit.
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