It means: Oil & Filter change and a Tire Rotation
on any Honda I have ever owned it is a little black plastic pipe bent at a 90 degree angle behind the valve cover on the right side with a black rubber tube that goes to the intake manifold
A PCV is always located off the intake manifold its a black rubber hose and these are very inexpensive they are usually between $3-$12 depending on the car, make, model, ect. A easy way to check your PCV valve is to remove it from the rubber hose and shake it, if it makes a noise its fine as its a one way check valve. This is why it has a rubber hose connected to it because that is a vacuum line that comes off the intake manifold. The top of it will usually be made of a black plastic the bottom will be made of metal if its on an older engine which this type will go into the valve cover. If its all black and is bent at a 90 degree angle which they all usually are, it will be inserted into the crankcase of the engine instead of the valve cover. All this valve dose is recycle unburnt gases from the engine back into the intake manifold so that they can be burnt in the cylinders.
To retain proper spring rate and handling, one should keep the springs within chassis year ranges (i.e. 88-91, 92-95, 96-00, 01-05, etc.). Any Civic model within those year ranges should share springs with other submodels within the same year ranges.
install 88-91 springs in any 1992-00 civic and you will retain factory ride quality with about 2.5" of lowering. Your camber adjustment will be out just like lowering springs though.
It should be the same way as the 90 and 91 just a clip holds the light in
1-3-4-2 distributor rotates clockwise. http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-9312.htm
I've used both Seafoam and Lucas with great results. I've also heard Techron is very effective, and even STP.
Pouring whatever cleaner you choose into the TB will NOT clean your injectors. A FI engine doesn't work that way. It MAY help clean carbon build up in the intake, but it won't do anything for the injectors. There are several articles on various Honda forums on how to use Seafoam to clean your intake.
To clean your injectors, simply pour your chosen cleaner into the fuel tank. Fill the tank to ensure mixing, and drive the car. I wouldn't refuel until you get to 1/4 tank or less.
Professional shops do offer fuel injector cleaning services. These vary in effectiveness. If you go the professional route, I'd stick with a Honda dealer, or an aftermarket Honda shop.
Try using Seafoam. Pour it lightly into your throttle body and then take the car out for a spin at wide open throttle. You will get a ton of smoke, but that's normal.
You must remove the aluminum Intake manifold ( upper & middle portion only ) to access the spark plugs. It's best left to a Professional Mechanic to do the job. The cost can vary. Look at atleast $400.00.. Just as a side note. The biggest hassle will be putting all those hoses & wire plugs you disconnected back in the right spot. The other is locating the proper bolts ( under all those hose & wires ) to remove the intake. Remember that this intake manifold only breathes air so no antifreeze BS to worry about. If you have the proper tools, patients & alot of time you can do it. I suggest perhaps taking some digital photos of the engine before you dig in - it will assist in getting some hoses back to the right spot ( label or color code hoses & wires first ) Good Luck ! And I will be doing this this weekend!
Changing the sparkplugs and wires in the Montero Sport, regardless of the year, is not an easy task. If you are not mechanically incline, then take it to the dealer and pay them to do the job....should run about $300 to $400. If you are mechanically then you may attempt to do the job yourself by following the step by step instruction on the web link listed here: http://www.monterosportonline.com/diy-perf2.html
I took out the battery fuse (80A)in a box next to the battery. Then put it back after 15 seconds. The clock had been reset but the check engine light is still on after driving about 5 minutes.
Near the battery is a fuse box...pull the 7.5A fuse (top row, 2nd from left) labeled "Back-up." Leave it out for at least 10 seconds. The ECU pulls "back-up" power off this circuit. Or, disconnect the negative battery terminal. You will need to reset the clock and radio. You should actually reset the ECU after ANY mod. Before I cleared the CEL, you might read it's code (if you havent done so) and correct the problem.
1993 Civic Si
They didn't make and Si in 1998. The PCV valve is on 1998 Civic SI's are located on the bottom of the intake manifold. It is acessed from the bottom of the car, you have to remove the oil filter to reach it.
First of all, it is impossible to separate the engine and transmission inside the hood, as the compartment is too cramped, so to access the seal, you need to pull the engine and the transmission out of the car at the same time, separate them on the floor, then replace the seal.
95% of the work is getting the engine in and out.
Have a system for organizing stuff you remove so that you can put it back on again without too much searching
You'll need a standard set of tools (wrenches, sockets, extensions, universal joints, pliers, etc.) as well as a mid sized pry bar, ball joint seperator, jack stands, jack and engine hoist and a hammer
You should also note that I use both "transmission" and "transaxle". They're the same thing.
1 drain coolant, ATF, engine oil. Note that there are two drain plugs at the bottom of the transaxle
2 remove battery, as well as the plastic tray that supports the battery
3 remove air intake
4 remove radiator and coolant reservoir (note that a lot of coolant will still be in the engine, and will come out, even after the radiator has been drained. The ATF also flows through the bottom of the radiator, and some will spill out too.)
5 remove windshield washer fluid resivoir
6 underneath the washer fluid, there will be a carbon canister, a big (about 1.5L) black plastic cylinder. Remove it
7 The power steering pump will have to be disconnected from the engine. To do this, you need to align holes in the pulley with the bolt heads, such that you can fit a socket in there to disconnect it. To achieve this alignment, you need to turn engine a bit. Jack up the car, and as the suspension pushes the wheels down, you'll see a rubber plug in the splash shield above and in front of the drivers side front wheel. Remove the plug. You will see a 19 mm hex head. With a long extension, you can rotate this, (like you're tightening it, otherwise you run the engine backwards) and the enging will turn over, and you'll be able to line up the bolts with the holes in the pulley. Loosen the bolts, and you will be able to take tension off the belt, allowing you to remove the belt and then the bolts.
8 If you have AC, you need to unbolt the compressor, which you can get at from underneath the car. It's behind the engine, near the bottom, and uses a V-belt.
9 Get some wire and wire the AC compressor and the power steering pump out of the way, so that the engine can go straight up without hitting them.
10 There are a lot of hoses and wires connecting the engine and transmission to the car. I'm not going to list them all, but you need to disconnect all of them.
11 There are four mount points for the engine/transmission. Two are on the sides, up high, and two are on the bottom, at the front and back. The bottom ones are easy to detatch, in principle. A bolt will run through the center of the mount. You need to detatch it from it's nut, and slide it out. As it is likely rusted like crazy, unbolting it is a pain, and since the engine is resting on it, removing it is no picnic either, but it is possible. As for the ones on the side, if you just remove the center axle, the mount still blocks the engine from coming up. What you need to do is unbolt the bracket that holds the mount on the passger side, via four bolts that are accesed from the wheel well. These bolts have rubber covers over them, that can be seen over top of the tire, when the car is jacked up. As for the drivers side, it is a real pain in the ass. You need to unbolt everything in the surrounding area so that you can push aside all this junk that is attached with rigid tubing, just enough to get wrenches and rachets in there. Be carefull, though, as you don't want a break in your tubing. In order to lift out cleanly, you want the mounting bracket removed from the engine, which for some reason is attached with one bolt and two studs. The studs force you to lift the thing straight up, which is difficult, because there are hoses and tubes in the way, but it is possible after enough fighting.
12 now all the attatches the engine/transaxle to the car is the half-shafts, which turn the wheels. Disconnecting these is a bit of a struggle, but not too bad. First you take off the front wheels, (have someone step on the brake while you do this) and at the bottom of wheel mount, there will be the ball joint. to disconnect it, back off the nut the that holds the ball joint in as far as you can (it will hit something before coming off the stud), and then insert the ball joint seperator between the rubber mount covering the ball joint, and the bottom the piece above it. Hammer in the ball joint seperator until the ball joint pops loose. (This is disturbing if you haven't done it before, but don't worry, just hammer) After it has popped off, you can remove the nut (the stud is lower now) and slide the stud out.
13 next, there is a rubber and metal contraption that connects the stabilizer bar to the wheel mount. If you can unbolt and remove this, that's great, and if not, just saw it off, because it's bent, and you need a new one anyway. They're not much money anyways.
14 Next, put the pry bar between the transaxle and the halfshaft (which has a big black bell shaped thing on the end of it, ideal for getting a bry bar behind) and give the bar a good kick. ( don't be afraid) The half shaft will pop loose. ATF may come out here.
15 pull the brake rotor out (the wheel mount is now quite loose, and this should be easy) and withdraw the halfshaft. cover the half shaft ends in foil to keep them free of grit, and stuff clean rags in the holes left behind, to keep grit out of the transaxle.
16 Lift out the engine and transmission, being carefull not to bump the condensor (looks like a second radiator) if you have AC. Always be on the lookout for things you forgot to disconnect, and lift slowly.
17 To disconnect the engine from the transmission, you will need to remove the bell housing cover, which is a little plate at the bottom of the transmission, on the same plane as the joint between the engine and transmission. Remove the bell housing cover
18 there will be a cable connecting the engine to the transmission. It can be disconnected by removing a couple tiny pins at the engine.
19 unbolt the transmission and engine. Pull them straight apart from each other. A lot of ATF will probably come out here. Foil over everything that could contaminate the transmission.
20 take off the oil pan.
21 there will be an aluminum mount for the rear main seal. Unbolt it, and slide it off the crankshaft.
22 pound out the old rear main seal with a hammer and punch, on alternating sides, to make it come out as straight as possible.
23 hammer in the new rear main seal using a big socket, or something else that large if you don't have any big enough sockets. The important thing is to apply a uniform force over the entire outside of the seal.
24 replace the gasket on the oil pan and on the mount for the old rear main seal. If the oil pan has not been removed before, it might not have a gasket, just RTV. This is a bad idea, and you should put on a real gasket, which they do make.
25 reassemble everything in the reverse order as you took it off. The ball joints will re-engage as you tighten the nut. The half shafts will go back into the transmission with a good kick to the wheel.
Do you mean a ber si por fin?
Because it means "finally to know whether"
You just need to replace the bulb. It should just turn and click out of the back of the lens (from under the hood) then just remove old bulb from the socket...
look up www.streetdreams.com/wires, this could help . They have color chart for the wires and what they mean.
The old Honda Civics didn't come with the block heater. It's an option or aftermarket...If your car is equipped with a block heater, it should be located in front or at the side of the radiator......
Have you tried unplugging the computer back-up fuse, replacing it, start it, let it idle for 10 minutes. This retrains the SI to air-fuel mix, which will calm your idle. After that, needing further idle adjustment, RTFM the Haynes manual.
Hayne's manual from autozone or oreilly's or your local auto parts store. WWW.INSTALLDOCTOR.COM
Passenger side right foot panel. Remove the panel and it is behind it. There is also one between the driver and passenger under the radio area behind the gear shift. This is for transmission tho I was told.
Haynes manuals have full wiring schematics for the stereo systems, along with the other basic wiring schemes for different areas of the car. Usually these manuals are cheap, and handy to have for self-service.
the proper torque specification for the geo storm 1.6 engine is 58 ft lbs ... Always torque in a spiral from the center outwards. Make sure you cleaned up the threads in the block ith a chaser (NOT a tap) before proceeding. And oil the threads on the new head bolts. You should be able to turn the bolts all the way snug with your fingers if the threads are cleaned up correctly. Then torque in 3 stages to the final torque in a spiral from the inner bolts.
should be fuel injection (SI sequential injection)
Most Hondas made up until about 1988 were carbureted, at which point they all switched to fuel injection. (The main difference then was whether they used dual point injection or multipoint injection...the Si models used multipoint.) Prior to 1988, you could tell if a Honda sport model was carbureted by the model designation. "S" was used for the sport models that were carbureted (S = Sport), while "Si" stood for the sport models that were fuel injected (Si = Sport Injected). A prime example was the Prelude, which offered a twin-carb version called the "S" and a fuel injected version of the same car called "Si." This naming strategy was common in the 80s with other manufacturers as well. Take, for instance, the Merkur XR4Ti. The "T" stood for "Turbocharged" while the "i" stood for fuel "injection," in the same was that the "i" stands for fuel injection on Honda Si models.
u need to get a flat screw driver and chizzel the round bolts at the top anti clock wise so they open and then take the top plate of and the barrel should drop
Yes they do, the automatic has a rev limiter set to about 4300 rpm when in park. Also non Sport models come with a top speed fuel shut off at 115mph, sport models are set at 137mph. With the fuel shut off removed top speed is 153mph!
to hook up an alternator with out ac just don't put the belt that hooks up to the crank pully back on.,.,
Give me food and I will live give me water and I will die what am I?
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