BOV's (blow-off valve) are to prevent too much positive pressure from entering the engine due to boost build-up and to releave back pressure from re-entering the Engine. A non-turbo car cannotuse a "BOV" since there is no turbo and/or positive pressure present in the intake manifold. This is STRONGLY not recommended, on NON-Turbo cars. As there is not reason for it to be present.
The main issue in the installation is the wiring. Three of them must be hooked into the ignition switch. To access the wiring you must remove the 2 lower panels underneath the driver side dash. Reaching your right hand up approximately behind the ignition switch, you'll grab hold of a bundle of wires (and also grab hold of the most slimy substance known to man -tape residue-) If you trace the bundle back to the switch, you'll feel a large round connector, about 2 inches in diameter. There are no clips holding it on, so you can wiggle it off. This allows you to see all the wires and attach the taps with ease. A word of warning! DO NOT take the connector apart. I did so in order to trace the pins (you just see a mess of wires coming out of the plug with no real order to them) Unfortunately, the pins inside are held on by the cap. Assuming you are stupid and attempt disassembly, wires will spring out, leaving you to figure out their proper place. Upon reassembly, you will then find that simply inserting your key into the ignition will cause your car to start :freak: Naturally, this would only happen if you were silly. On to the wiring. There are 4 main wires that require hook up from the unit.
1.) Red - Constant 12v
This wire hooks to the beefy red wire coming out of the switch. There are actually 2, and I found it didn't matter which one you chose, both are constant 12v
2.) Blue - Accessory Wire (Becomes active when switch is in #2 position)
This is a beefy black wire, only one coming out.
3.) Green - On Wire (Switch in # 3 position)
Blue wire with red stripe.
4.) Black - Ground
Since I put my controller in the center console next to the lighter, I mounted it to a metal post inside.
Place your ignition switch back on, and then route your wires to wherever your unit will be (up and to the right is a pass-through to the center console).
Additionally, there are 2 safety wires, a brown one for the parking brake signal, and a purple one for the speed signal. These keep the car from being driven away while the TT is still running.
5.) Brown - Parking Brake Safety Wire
Unscrew the 2 torx screws holding the tray underneath the brake lever. Detach the clip at the front holding the tray to the front console (right in front of the fuse box) You can now lift out the tray and you will find a brown wire running from the parking brake safety switch. Tap into this wire with the brown wire from the TT.
yes though you may need better than backyard mechanic knowledge. check the internet for "turbocharging". this will give you a basic idea of cost, what will work and some will give instructions on how to. alot of times they sell them in kits for the do-it-yourselfer. good luck
Of course you can put on a turbo, but you should probably get a professional opinion, and research witch is the best turbo for you.
Find another 93 eclipse or eagle talon in a junkyard and swap the parts from one car to the other and the computer also. And only run 5 pounds of boost. Which can be controlled by a boost controller.
It's possible but potentially very costly. Several things must be considered, including: (1) The current compression ratio of your engine - it will need to be lowered because of the increased air pressure in the manifold and combustion chambers from the turbo. (2) The fuel pressure regulator may need to be changed. (3) The intake and exhaust manifolds will need to be replaced with manifolds that have additional ports for the turbocharger connections. (4) The camshaft will need to come from a turbocharged car. I've seen this question pop up many times in car forums. It's usually cheaper (and safer) to just buy a car that has a stock turbo as opposed to spending a lot of money on turbocharging a naturally aspirated engine.
Correction. The camshaft need not be from a turbocharged car. Often times the cam specs are the same and sometimes N/A cars have wilder specs.
I've installed turbo's on a few cars that were originally NA. It's generally not as bad as many say it is and you can generally just put the kit on a healthy NA motor as long as you TUNE for it. The biggest thing that is overlooked is when you add something such as a turbo the engine will need more fuel/retard the timing. Example of parts:
Turbo manifold, turbo, oil feed/return lines, materials for a downpipe, materials for charge pipes, wastegate, blow-off valve (or recirc valve depending on MAP/MAF setup), intercooler (not always needed if boost is low enough), clutch to hold the power, silicone couplings/t-clamps for couplings, larger diameter exhaust system, engine management (DON'T cheap out and use an FMU or any piggy back system, most vehicles will either be able to be chipped and tuned by a professional or a standalone system can be used and tuned to your boost/power level.
Some things that are a good idea to change while in there are the head bolts. Most times the head will lift under boost if stronger bolts aren't used. Sometimes a thicker radiator is needed as well because of the extra heat the turbo can cause.
For vehicle specific stuff there are tons of forums out there online.
Heres a link that will help. In the future try to give us some more information on your car year, make, model. You supply all of this and you will get an answer very fast! Thanks in advance http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineTurboRebuilding.htm
As long as it passes emissions... in the USA, no. Most manufacturers have 50 state legal kits.
You would be better off getting an actual SC motor from a parts car than trying to swap an SC onto a standard 3.8L LX. The SC motor is designed for the boost application, as it has forged crankshaft, rods, and better pistons to handle the boost. A normal 3.8L would not handle the boost you can get out of the M90 Eaton blower that the SC's came with. You would most likely end up breaking something in the bottom end, and then have to start all over w/ a new motor. Check out www.tccoa.com for more info on this.
As pointed out, above.. PLUS.. 3.8L engines already had a problem with head gaskets....It is not practical for the sometime mechanic to add forced induction to those engines.
In fact the BEST way to do it is to find a wrecked SuperCoupe and swap EVERYTHING.
Or sell your LX and buy a SC
It really depends on alot of things...
1. what vehicle, make/model/year you are looking to "boost"
2. how much you want to spend and who is installing it.
3. how much power you want ,what type of power your looking for. ( where it occurs)
1 & 2. Alot of vehicles, either only have turbo kits avail. or only supercharger kits. If it came with a turbo from the factory/ or had a turbo model avail. That would the cheapest/easiest way to go. Alot of "popular models" have both avail.( examples: mustangs, 350Z, corvette etc.) Custom "one off kits will get too expensive fast". Centrifugal supercharger kits are "usually" cheaper and easier to install ).
3. Everyone always wants "alot", If the vehicle is stock, adding 6-8psi is usually safe. Screw/roots superchargers are #1 if you love the install throttle response or low end torque. They are more eff. at low boost levels usually <12psi, whipples are rated up to 30psi but eff. will drop usually down to 60%. Hood clearance can be a problem with this type. They will drop fuel economy more than the other, but not too bad if it has the bypass valve is installed( it let the air bypass the roots during cruising.)
Centrifugal superchargers are cheaper, more eff. / easier to package than roots/screw chargers. The downside is that they have a linear boost. (I.E. 1 psi at 2000-2500rpms, 3psi at 4000rpms, 6psi at 6000rpm ) The other is belt durability/slipage. This can be partially fixed by using a BOV and overdrive it( use a 14psi pulley, and let the BOV limit the high end pressure back to the 6-8psi)
Turboes setup for a non turbo car, is usually the most expensing, but the most versitile, with options like boost per gear program, adjustable wate gates, the availability of using multiple turboes, plus there are about 20times more turbo sizes avail. than superchargers to more fit your needs. Getting used turboes from factory turbo cars from the junkyard can save you alot of money. Turbo kits can be made to give low rpm boost/torque, but they will limit topend power because of the size of the turbo/turboes. You need to choose where you want the power, If you want 20psi/high HP don't expect 20psi at 2000rpms. With todays turboes, full boost by 2500-3000psi is can be expected for street kits (6-12psi). Cruising at 1200rpm in high gear, you will get turbo lag, but throttle response at/above say 3000rpms, the response will be there.
The real deciding point is low end torque and the sound. Some people love/hate turbo whistle or supercharger whine.
NO the heads are made slightly diffrent the bolt patterns will not match up. Rather than aftermarket what you can do is purchase the parts for an L67 (3.8 supercharged) and put them on your L36 (3.8 non supercharged).It's not really simple like some people think but it's definitely doable (many people have gone down this road). The following is a list of everything you will need:
L67 idler pullies (there's two of them)
L67 belt tensioner
L67 throttle body
L67 crank pulley
L67 MAP sensor
L67 Valve Covers
L67 fuel rail
L36 to L67 wiring harness adapter kit
Vac lines (I used 7/64" rubber hose)
Coil pack bracket from a 97-98 GT/GTP
2 changes worth of oil/oil filters
2 gallons of coolant
Valve Cover gaskets
Fuel rail o-rings Check out the postings at http://www.grandprix.net/and look to Ed Morad http://www.moradpartscompany.com/as an excellent source for used grand prix parts. Hope this helps. "G"
Eaton M45 roots type supercharger
yes you can put a blow off valve on any turbo application, A blow off valve helps relieve boost pressure spike/surge when the throttle is quickly closed, helps prevent damage/excessive load on the turbo and throttle body.
Go to http://www.rpw.com.au and they have turbo kits for the M21.
The engine in your car is the same engine that comes with a turbocharger in Mitsubishi cars, so everything will bolt right up. The main difference is, your engine has higher compression, so if you were to buy a stock Mitsubishi turbo kit (used or new) to install on your engine, you'd have to either buy an aftermarket intercooler or get used to buying 94+ octane gas... The upside will be, if you buy an intercooler, you're motor will have a much higher horsepower rating than the same turbo engine in a stock Mitsubishi due to your higher compression.
If you do not use an intercooler I promise you that detonation will destroy your engine!
An intercooler is placed in the airflow path between the turbocharger and the engine intake in order to cool the air after it has been compressed by the turbo. Compressing air heats it up. By cooling it back down, the air becomes denser. This means more air molecules go into the cylinder. This (when mixed with the proper amount of fuel) increases engine power compared to a non-intercooled engine.
there should be a ajusting sleve (looks like a nut) on the wastegate rod....the wastegate is the round deal on the turbo with a rod on it....and it has a vac line on it from the manifold....it controls how much and when the wastegate opens....and how much boost the turbo will produce....hope this helps....dave
go to the dodgegarage.com go to turbo database and look how to convert a t1 to t2 then go to a hardware or pet store and get a aqurieum bypass valve (metal no plastic will melt in heat of engine) hook it up in the vacum hose that goes to the wastegate (be sure to have a a/f gauge and 20 psi boost gage) close the valve completely and then start making little turns drive after each one till u here a knocking sound (detination) and your a/f gauge goes red during boost turn down till the knocking stops at full boost. i have a 88 dodge daytona that ran safely 16-17psi with out detinating. if you dont want to convert to t2 then due the same thing to your present car my 85 lancer t1 with ran at 14psi of boost. if u want to know more firstname.lastname@example.org
I had a really nice 1985 back in the late 80's and one day the rubber waste-gate control hose got a hole in it...wouldn't open the gate so it stayed tight shut and would peg the boost gauge! Full Boost and hold on...had so much fun I drove it that way for a few days but was careful not to give it full throttle with that much boost...didn't need to anyhow as just lightly pressing on the gas was equivalent to full throttle before!!!..Did replace the hose as I got nervous I was gonna pop the engine:) Indiana... Jim
Yes it will I had a tensioner pulley give out on mine that had to be replaced due to having an incorrect belt, and incorrect routing. I ran for over a week while I waited for the proper belt, and replacement pulley to get to me. The Supercharger does indeed make a difference in power, but if you have to run without it you'll be ok. I wouldn't bypass the supercharger on purpose because it may even decrease your gas mileage, but again the car will run without it if need be.
11/11/07 -After 10 years of ownership, and 30 minutes of running my GTP without the supercharger belt, I believe it will continue to run successfully at a greater level naturally aspirated. I will report the results as they come...
The 84-86 SVO all came with a Garret T3 turbocharger but there are some differences in years. The 84 and 85 cars came with an oil cooled .60/.63A/r turbo and the 85.5 and 86 cars came with a .60/.48A/r turbo which was oil and water cooled.
Some turbo cars will be fitted with a turbo timer, which keeps the engine running for a specified time after the ignition is turned off. This allows the turbo to cool down before the engine shuts off, which prevents potential damage to the turbo.
as many as u want as long as ur motor ndd tranny could hold up the power...well den ur good but good luck wid dtt monster!
Swap it for the 4g63. Unless you just want a little boost. Do your math if you stick with the gs engine. You could bolt on the charger and then do the swap after you break something.;-)
If u really like the 420a u can jus turbo it...or take it apart drop compression etc....and try to break the 661 whp record ...but no u cant swap it the 4g63 wont fit in the same mounting places
Have you tried buying a Haynes manual ya cheapskate?, wiring diagrams are in it
As many as you can AFFORD and dont mind looking at.
i guess roosta is right. but personaly i don't see the point having any more then 2 just creates to much heat in the engine that bay and sooner or later that would start to become a very bad thing. and after awhile there would not be enough speed in the exhaust gases to operate the ones further back
Since there is no answer yet, I'll add my two cents. I BELIEVE it is possible. I think that the engines are interchangeable like in two year increments or something. Like a 91 engine will go into a 91 or 92, and a 93 will go in a 93 or 94. However, I'm not certain.
-Revision- I don't think you can because of the completely different motor mount design. The 91s used a completely different design than the 92-02 models. I think the 92-95 models are interchangeable, the 96-99s and the 00-02s. Keep in mind the PCM might need reprogrammed at the dealer if you change years.
The mounts may be different between the years but leave the original mounts in when swapping. The 91/92 cranks are different than the rest of the years so you can only swap between thos two.
Yes, VW had a factory available car that had both. It isn't economical, especially with the newer designed turboes avail. today.
Depends on the how hard the vehicle is driven. 99% of all factory supercharged vehicles are using eaton roots type superchargers/Positive displacement. Eaton superchargers web site states, "they are designed to last the life of the vehicle". The only centrifugal (paxton,vortech,procharger,rotex type) factory superchargered vehicles (that I know of) are the previous keonisegg and the Alpina B7Centrifical superchargers. Eaton states that the oil in the gear case is designed for the life of the supercharger/doesn't need changing, but say if they are frequently raced 20k miles cahanges are ok. I know centrifugal types have problems with drive belt life, especially when pushing higher boost. Prochargers recommend 6k mile oil changes for thier self containted oiled superchargers.
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