It could be battery connection, discharged or faulty battery, faulty alternator or regulator, faulty starter or a loose and corroded connection on the starter.
Sense its a GT I am going to assume it has a 3100 engine and the PCV is under the intake. You can replce it but unless you have over 150000 miles on it you probably don't need to. They hardly ever give any problems on those cars. If I am not right about the engine let me know and i`ll give you the you need. Ray
On my '99 Grand Prix GTP SuperCharged. + Standing in front center of the car + Remove the plastic cover + On TOP, the back right hand corner, there is a small flat plate with 2 small bolts on it. + Remove 2 bolts, lift up Plate and Gasket + Remove Spring + Remove PCV with O-ring + Put O-ring on new PCV and put PCV back in hole + Put Spring back in hole on top of PCV + Replace Gasket and Plate + Tighten down the 2 bolts + Put Plastic Cover back on and tighten nut. I would change it(PCV) out every time I changed the oil. PCV's only cost about $2.50 and keeps your car motor from building up too much pressure and keeps your car from getting oil leaks. Also I personally use Mobil 1 oil. Now drive it like you stole it! Dexter
Every Grand Prix GT I have ever seen had the 3800 engine in it, usually supercharged, that's why its called a GT. The standard run-of-the-mill SE models have the standard 3100 engine in them. BUT,...if you buy a car new, DIRECT FROM THE FACTORY, then a person could order their car with either engine! If you got the money to burn, a person could have General Motors drop a V8 in their SE or GT model
You can't change the "cover" as it is part of the entire taillight housing assembly. The "covers" do tend to separate over time from the rest of the light and allow water to get into the housing and generally look ugly. All that you can do is clean the parts really well, I bake the entire tail light in the oven at the lowest temperature setting for 2 or 3 hours to get rid of any residual water, then seal the joint where the outer cover meets the rest of the housing. Google "grand prix taillight" and you'll see thousands of people in the same boat. The real solution is to buy a new one, they are available for $95-120 from eBay and others. Used ones tend to be in the same condition as yours, the perfect used one is a rarity. I have fixed mine 3 times now and just bought 2 new ones because i can't spend any more time fixing them!
The 2005 Grand Prix Base model and GT models have 3.8L's and the GXP models have the 5.3L V8. I know the location on the 3.8L.
- Take the engine cover off
- Look at the very top of the motor, the intake manifold.
- There are fuel rails running over the top of this manifold.
- There is a bolt holding 2 of the rails in place right in the middle.
- To the bottom right of this bolt is the PCV valve.
- It has two bolts holding it in and no lines running to it.
Look in the phone book, call the parts dept. of a nearby auto dealer that sells and services the make of car you have, (for example a Chevy dealership, if your car is made by Chevrolet, etc.). Give the parts person the make and model of your car and they will gladly tell you what kind of fluid to use.
I recently changed the front pads on my 2000 GT, and if yours are like mine, you will find that both the inside and outside pads are exactly the same. The only real difference is where you put the retainer clips on the pads. put the early warning tab on the in side so you can hear it.
Do NOT pour any additives into your power steering. Car makers specifically warn against these additives--especially anything with teflon in it. It can clog filters and destroy your P.S. pump.
Chrysler vehicles must be bled with a vacuum pump to remove any air.
If it still whines, the filter may be plugged. Here's how to replace it:
It is possible that it was not bled correctly. It may also be that because when the fluid gets hot it thins out, as with any type of oil. There are a lot of aftermarket products that claim to fix things such as this--I would recommend Lucas, or depending on the type of car, if it is not factory equipped with ATF for the power steering fluid, to switch it over to ATF, as tranny fluid is a better hydraulic fluid than power steering fluid, and will not harm any power steering components. In fact, most vehicles produced from 2002 on, use ATF as a factory-installed steering fluid.
I hate to tell you that the dealer draws from the same pool of techs that anyone else would. Not to mention the techs at a dealer are generally paid on the amount of work done. Sooooo... why do you assume that it was bled right?
I have a Nissan Altima '95. The engine of the car gives a very thin cranking noise when it is started. Auto repair guys told me that I need to replace the power steering pump. Can it be the reason for this?
( bled right ) is a great dealerships do not care , they are there to make money mean your money , you need to see if they ( the dealer) filled it with fluid. again they don't care about you or your property , ( money) is all.....
BLED RIGHT is the best i have seen, it doesnt matter how many times you change the pump if the reservoir where your fluid goes is dry or empty that is what is making th whine noise you hear nothing more nothin less. if you have no water in your washer its simply not going to wash right well same with the power sterring no fluid no turn, your trying to force a machine to do something it has no power sterring fluid to help it do. ITS SIMPLY DRY of FLUID!!..
There are many reasons to cause a whine even after bleeding. They include air in the system, plugged filter (though not all cars, particularly older cars, have a power steering fluid filter), and age. It is not uncommon that the pump itself may have problems with its working parts. My best suggestion is to replace the filter and use ATF fluid. Otherwise the easiest way to remove the whine is to replace the pump itself, which could be wearing out anyway. And no, it is not simply dry of fluid.
NO the heads are made slightly diffrent the bolt patterns will not match up. Rather than aftermarket what you can do is purchase the parts for an L67 (3.8 supercharged) and put them on your L36 (3.8 non supercharged).It's not really simple like some people think but it's definitely doable (many people have gone down this road). The following is a list of everything you will need:
L67 idler pullies (there's two of them)
L67 belt tensioner
L67 throttle body
L67 crank pulley
L67 MAP sensor
L67 Valve Covers
L67 fuel rail
L36 to L67 wiring harness adapter kit
Vac lines (I used 7/64" rubber hose)
Coil pack bracket from a 97-98 GT/GTP
2 changes worth of oil/oil filters
2 gallons of coolant
Valve Cover gaskets
Fuel rail o-rings Check out the postings at http://www.grandprix.net/and look to Ed Morad http://www.moradpartscompany.com/as an excellent source for used grand prix parts. Hope this helps. "G"
I'll I have to do on my 96 grand am is put the steering wheel all the way down (tilt steering) before putting it into park.
its all oabut hearing the click after the keys r all the way back slowly turn forward and try to pull them out ull here a click and they well slide right out
this used to happen to me, too... key would get stuck in the accessory position and my battery got drained twice. on the bottom of the steering column there is a little plastic square cover; pop it off and you will feel a round button; press this button and the key will come out even if it's not in the off position.
My 1996 Grand AM had the same problem. The keys would get stuck in the ignition. It turned out to be a worn out shifter. The shifter was not getting all the way into park.
I had the same problem on my 97. Like the poster above it was the shifter. There is a electric solenoid on the shifter. It's plunger is spring loaded so that when you go into park the solenoid deenergizes and allows the ignition switch to go all the way to the off posititon and release the key. The spring on the plunger gets weak or clogged with gunk and the plunger cannot drop to deenergize the circuit. The solenoid is riveted to the shifter so it cannot be changed. You will end up having to replace the shifter assembly.
You must replace the crankshaft sensor very carefully. There is a small bolt that holds it in place on the back side of the engine,(usually an 8mm socket does the trick)you can access that bolt by reaching under the car between the transmission and the engine. when that bolt is out you must twist and pull the sensor at the same time. If you have a problem getting it out you can use a screwdriver to start to pry it out but becareful not to break it. If you break it and it is still in the engine block you will need to drop the oil pan and pound it out from the bottom.
I may sound crazy, but i had an easier time with the sensor after i removed the coolant tank, the alternator and the alternator mounting bracket. You will get an almost straight shot from above especially if you jack the engine up a few inches. Though it is best to spot its position from the bottom so you know where to put your hand.
You need 3 connections, (+) key on, (-) ground, and (+) reverse. The auto dimming mirror looks for (+)on the sense line so it can automatically lighten up when the vehicle is placed in reverse. If running a wire from your backup light circuit isn't appealing, then you can just leave it out, but the mirror needs a switched 12v supply and a ground. Some mirrors also have a compass and a thermometer.
If your fan control speed #1 stops working and then #2 stops working I believe it is the blower motor modual it is sometimes called blower motor resistor block.It is behind the fan motor , up under the passenger side of the dash and against the firewall. If you are looking underneath the dash, you will see a little black box in the position I described. It is being held in by 3 or 4 gold hex screws that are (I believe) .25'. Its not the fan motor control switch ....return that $165.00 part .....the blower motor modual is about $25 if you get it wholesale. These parts are usually not in stock and have to be imported from the Czech Republic, so order early.
there located in the rear hub....take of tire, remove the brake assembly and then remove the wheel hub...you will then see it behind the hub(it has a flat end and a chrome color.) removal is simple after doing all that.
You first need to know the firing order and the #1 location on the distributor cap. Best way is to get yourself a service manual for the vehicle you are working on.
Something like this just happened when my a/c blower was just changed. The mechanic forgot to plug in some of the wires around my blower which caused the air to blow out the dash and the floor only. It was three wires (one yellow, one white, and one red)that my husband pluged in. After that it worked fine! Just a suggestion!!!
There are instructions and good pics at the following website to the right PFYC.
There is a solenoid & plunger next to the ignition switch inside the steering column that stops functioning. The plunger must be retracted in order for the switch to turn all the way so the key can be removed. I manually inserted the plunger and took out the key.
This part failed in my 2001 Grand Prix GT as well about a year ago. My local mechanic explained the part and what it does to me and recommended to just remove it and not reinstall a new one.
As it was explained to me, this interlock makes sure that the car is in PARK before allowing key removal. Note that without it, the ingnition can be switched off and the key can be removed while the car is moving (a dirty trick, which will lock the steering wheel). Also, without it, you might accidentally shut the car off and remove the key while parking without actually putting it in PARK.
Probably a nice interlock to have.
OR - You have the vehicle in gear. Shift to park and remove.
I thought the solenoid/plunger was the problem with our 01 Grand Prix GT as well (couldn't remove key and the steering wheel didn't lock) but the GM service shop told me the problem was the solenoid(?) at the base of the shift lever on the center console. Required replacement of the entire shift lever assembly as can't replace the solenoid part only. Total bill was $821.67 parts & labor. Bit of a shocker! Am wondering if I was taken!?
Let me put my 2 cents in, I have been dealing with the same problem for about 2 years. My work around is to tilt the sterring wheel up and reach under the column and press up on the solenoid while I turn the key out of the lock. A lot cheaoer than a repair.
I just had to deal with a somewhat similar situation. I have an '03 GTP, coming home from work when I would go to use my directional the engine would shut down, every freaking light on the dash would begin to flash like a bad Las Vegas sign. The key wouldn't come out as well.
I got the car home and started checking the harnes for breaks. Everything was fine, good continuity on all the wires (combination switch, ignition switch, series II and leads to keyed tumbler). After doing some reading and talking with a fantastic non-GM mechanic I replaced the ignition switch itself.
Everything previously mentioned goes through the ignition switch and reports to the security system and, as far as my experience goes, grabs your key and holds it. Also, the book says you don't have to have power on to reset the ignition tumblers - BALOGNEY! If the battery isn't connected, the ignition won't cycle properly allowing the tumblers to seat correctly and the plunger to release your key! $94.00 cost for the new ignition switch purchased at an aftermarket parts shop. :)
Disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10+ minutes usually resets the Service Engine Soon" light. Please note that it will reset everything else electrical in your car as well (e.g.- radio and clock). If the light reappears shortly after reconnecting and restarting the vehicle you will need to get the code read and go from there. If nothing noticable most likely an O2 sensor.
You can also pull the the fuse/breaker marked PCM/IGN from the electrical center under the hood. The box is on the passenger side under a marked plastic cover between the edge of the fender and the diagonal strut/support.
the rear is 6x9 and the fronts should be 4x6
20 Gallons or 76 Liters.
20 Gallons or 76 Liters.
most gm sensors for the rear view mirrors are mounted on the top of the front bumper under the bumper cover on the rebar
Windows not working in the winter could just be frozen...try parking inside for a day, or try checking your fuses. Could be a combination... windows froze so fuse blew when trying open them.
Hey Rich==The idle speed solonoid is pprobably to blame. Take it off of the throtle body and clean it with carb cleaner. Also clean th inside of the throtle body where the throtle plate is as a carbon ring forms there. Goodluck Joe I had a similar problem and the PCV tube was punctured. $20 part at a ford dealer and you can replace it yourself. I too had this problem and the PCV tube was cracked and collapsed. Replaced and all was well. I also had this problem, with my 1996 wagon.. problem was a cinked PCV hose, was very cheap, and easy to replace. Fixed the problem ;)
if you are talking about the coolant drain hose there isn't one on this model.
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