Honda Civic DX

Attach the wiring harness to the end of the ignition lock cylinder. Slide the ignition lock cylinder into the slot. Tighten the retaining ring at the top of the cylinder.

It is not recommended to bypass an idler pulley as it plays a crucial role in the functioning of the drive belt system. You may experience issues such as increased belt wear, noise, and decreased performance if you bypass the idler pulley. It is best to replace a faulty idler pulley to ensure the proper operation of your vehicle.

The purpose of a pulley is that it can lift heavier things at a quicker pace. Some examples of a pulley is a ski lift and alot of roller coasters have them also.

I hope i have helped at least a little bit!!! (:

Hazard lights are used to alert other drivers of a potential hazard or emergency situation, such as a vehicle breakdown or accident. They are designed to increase visibility and indicate to others that caution should be exercised when approaching the vehicle.

The computer box, or Engine Control Module (ECM), on a 1988 Mazda 323 is typically located in the engine bay near the firewall. Look for a rectangular metal or plastic box with wiring harnesses connected to it.

The C115 connection is it supposed to connected because mine is not

The air/fuel ratio is controlled by a set of instructions within the ECU(electronic control unit) or ECM. It can only be adjusted electronically with computer equipment that intercepts signals from the various sensors and basically fools the engine computer into allowing more or less gas to be injected. It is possible with those models but is not easy. JSM

Yes.

To remove ours we had to go underneath and take it out that way. Once we got all the bolts out we had to take off the brackets to get it to drop out. Installation is the reverse of removal. Quite a PITA!!!

on an 85 Honda accord the fuel pump is external ,meaning that the pump is not located in the fuel tank which most are located now a days, it is located on the driver side along the left side of the vehicle about a foot from the rear tire . there is a cover which has 3 bolts holding it ..underneathe is the fuel pump.

1995 And Newer Typical Nissan Pin What It Is In Dash Wire Color A Right Rear Speaker (+) Gray B Amplifier Turn On Wire C Right Rear Speaker (-) Gray w/ Red Stripe D Left Rear Speaker (+) Orange E Left Rear Speaker (-) Black w/ Pink Stripe F Amp Ground Wire (connect this wire to the radios ground wire) G +12 Volt Ignition Wire Blue H Do Not Use I Right Front Speaker (+) Brown J Left Front Speaker (+) Purple K Ground Wire (if available) metal brackets on radio L Do Not Use M +12 Volt Battery Wire Pink N Power Antenna Wire O Right Front Speaker (-) Brown w/ White Stripe P Left Front Speaker (-) Green w/ Yellow Stripe AS VIEWED FROM MATING END OF CONNECTOR a b g h i j c d e f k l m n o p

Here are some few more steps, in addition to the previously mentioned steps, that could help you in your repalcement:

1. Open the hood and locate your vehicle's alternator.

2. Using your digital multi-meter, check the battery voltage. A dead battery will usually have less than 9 volts. This would not be enough power to start most vehicles.

3. To verify that your alternator is bad, make sure your battery is fully charged and can pass a load test.

4. With the good battery installed, connect your digital multi-meter across the battery terminals with the engine turned off. A good battery should read between 12-13 volts.

5. Start your engine and read the digital multi-meter's output. The voltage should rise near 13.5-14.5 volts.

6. Using an open end wrench, disconnect the battery's negative cable

7. Disconnect the power and ground wires on the back of the alternator paying close attention to where each wire connects. Disconnect the wiring harness connector.

8. Loosen the alternator bracket bolts, and alternator adjusting bolts or alternator belt tensioner so that you can remove the alternator drive belt.

9. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, remove the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt, lower pivot bolt (if equipped), and the alternator.

10. Install new alternator.

11. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, loosely install the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt (if equipped).

12. Install the alternator belt.

13. Pull the alternator until the alternator belt is tight.

14. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts while gently moving the alternator unit to achieve proper alternator belt tension.

15. Reinstall the power and ground wires to alternator. Install the wiring harness connector.

16. Push down in the middle of the alternator belt to check belt tension. If the alternator belt moves more than a half an inch, it is too loose, adjust the alternator belt to proper tension before proceeding to next step.

17. Now that the alternator belt has been installed and adjusted, reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check the battery voltage to verify proper alternator charging.

18. Turn off the engine and recheck the alternator belt tension. Readjust the alternator belt tension if needed.

Disconnect the battery. Then unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt it. Put a new one back on. Bolt it in. Put belts back on. Plug it back in. Reconnect the battery. Viola! Replaced alternator.

Probably computer controlled and not adjustable

[edit] the ignition advance/retard is computer controlled but setting proper idle ignition timing can be done with a timing light an a 12mm wrench (I prefer a deep 3/8 drive socket).

hooking up your timing light (or someone else's for that matter) I'll assume you can figure out. there is a two-wire harness behind the passenger footwell (mine is actually above that stuffed under the far right side of the dash board).. you'll need to connect those two wires with a piece of wire or paper-clip. then, with the timing light hooked up, start the car and let it warm up to operating temp. once its up to temp set the timing light to 16 degrees (advanced)... there is a little v-shaped piece that sticks off the lower timing belt cover that will line up with the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley (just below the v-shaped notch).. when the timing light strobes the two should be lined up, if they are not then loosen the three 12mm bolts that hold the distributor on (loosen, DO NOT remove them) and slowly rotate the distributor until the mark lines up with the notch. once they are lined up, re-tighten the bolts on the distributor.

Note: I have a 94 civic Si which has the same motor as your 95 EX and my service manual lists idle timing to be set to 16degrees BTDC (before top dead center).. check with your local shop or a Honda service manual to double check your proper timing setting.

18436572 is the order. potentially the harmonic balancer should have a carved notch which lines up with the timing mark on the block somehow

The degrees should be on a label under the hood.

There is a large metric bolt right (17 or 18mm) in the center of the main crank pulley. Immobilize the crank using a vise-grip equiped with a locking chain. Wrap an old fan belt (cut-to-size) around the crank and protect the serpentine gooves of the crank pulley, then wrap the vise chain and clamp onto the crank. Use a good breaker bar, or impact hammer to break the bolt torque free counter-clockwise. Note: Don't remove the four 10mm bolts on the crank pulley. The whole thing comes off as one assemble piece.

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It depends on what you're going for. The SI edition is considered Sport Injected. Generally it will have a slightly larger engine. My 1995 Civic Si has a 1.6 cubic liter engine with VTEC, along with four wheel disc breaks. The amenities are sometimes dealer options, my car does not have AC but some civic SIs do come with it. SIs should have tilt wheels, drivers and passengers side mirrors, etc. You can generally compare the differences at www.kbb.com

how to remove your door panel. I'm assuming you have no power windows on your dx. behind your window handle is a c-clip that is stopping you from pulling this panel off. even if you have already taken out a few screws and tried to pull the panel off...you must take this clip off, here is how. there is a special tool for this, or you can simply push back the door panel so that you can see the clip. once you see the open end of the c-clip take a t-shirt or towel and simply work it into the open end of the clip until the clip pops off.

I just used a flat head screwdriver to push one side on the clip down as far as possible and then pushed on the other side of it and it usually pops off mine luckily was still attached to the handle so i didn't have to go to a junk yard to get a new one

Bad speedo cable, Try some light oild like WD40 and if the problems goes away than replace the cable

94 is the year most vehicles were in the change-over stage from the factory from r-12 to r134, look for a yellow tag/stick under the hood as to which is in your system. It came from the factory with R12 Freon installed. Unless it has been converted to R134, then it still has R12. Due to the extremely high cost of R12, I suggest you convert it over to R134a.