The air/fuel ratio is controlled by a set of instructions within the ECU(electronic control unit) or ECM. It can only be adjusted electronically with computer equipment that intercepts signals from the various sensors and basically fools the engine computer into allowing more or less gas to be injected. It is possible with those models but is not easy. JSM
To remove ours we had to go underneath and take it out that way. Once we got all the bolts out we had to take off the brackets to get it to drop out. Installation is the reverse of removal. Quite a PITA!!!
on an 85 Honda accord the fuel pump is external ,meaning that the pump is not located in the fuel tank which most are located now a days, it is located on the driver side along the left side of the vehicle about a foot from the rear tire . there is a cover which has 3 bolts holding it ..underneathe is the fuel pump.
1995 And Newer Typical Nissan Pin What It Is In Dash Wire Color A Right Rear Speaker (+) Gray B Amplifier Turn On Wire C Right Rear Speaker (-) Gray w/ Red Stripe D Left Rear Speaker (+) Orange E Left Rear Speaker (-) Black w/ Pink Stripe F Amp Ground Wire (connect this wire to the radios ground wire) G +12 Volt Ignition Wire Blue H Do Not Use I Right Front Speaker (+) Brown J Left Front Speaker (+) Purple K Ground Wire (if available) metal brackets on radio L Do Not Use M +12 Volt Battery Wire Pink N Power Antenna Wire O Right Front Speaker (-) Brown w/ White Stripe P Left Front Speaker (-) Green w/ Yellow Stripe AS VIEWED FROM MATING END OF CONNECTOR a b g h i j c d e f k l m n o p
Here are some few more steps, in addition to the previously mentioned steps, that could help you in your repalcement:
1. Open the hood and locate your vehicle's alternator.
2. Using your digital multi-meter, check the battery voltage. A dead battery will usually have less than 9 volts. This would not be enough power to start most vehicles.
3. To verify that your alternator is bad, make sure your battery is fully charged and can pass a load test.
4. With the good battery installed, connect your digital multi-meter across the battery terminals with the engine turned off. A good battery should read between 12-13 volts.
5. Start your engine and read the digital multi-meter's output. The voltage should rise near 13.5-14.5 volts.
6. Using an open end wrench, disconnect the battery's negative cable
7. Disconnect the power and ground wires on the back of the alternator paying close attention to where each wire connects. Disconnect the wiring harness connector.
8. Loosen the alternator bracket bolts, and alternator adjusting bolts or alternator belt tensioner so that you can remove the alternator drive belt.
9. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, remove the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt, lower pivot bolt (if equipped), and the alternator.
10. Install new alternator.
11. Using the proper size socket and ratchet, loosely install the alternator mounting bolts, spacer (if equipped), adjusting bolt and lower pivot bolt (if equipped).
12. Install the alternator belt.
13. Pull the alternator until the alternator belt is tight.
14. Tighten the alternator mounting bolts while gently moving the alternator unit to achieve proper alternator belt tension.
15. Reinstall the power and ground wires to alternator. Install the wiring harness connector.
16. Push down in the middle of the alternator belt to check belt tension. If the alternator belt moves more than a half an inch, it is too loose, adjust the alternator belt to proper tension before proceeding to next step.
17. Now that the alternator belt has been installed and adjusted, reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check the battery voltage to verify proper alternator charging.
18. Turn off the engine and recheck the alternator belt tension. Readjust the alternator belt tension if needed.
Disconnect the battery. Then unplug the alternator and take the belts off. Unbolt it. Put a new one back on. Bolt it in. Put belts back on. Plug it back in. Reconnect the battery. Viola! Replaced alternator.
Probably computer controlled and not adjustable
 the ignition advance/retard is computer controlled but setting proper idle ignition timing can be done with a timing light an a 12mm wrench (I prefer a deep 3/8 drive socket).
hooking up your timing light (or someone else's for that matter) I'll assume you can figure out. there is a two-wire harness behind the passenger footwell (mine is actually above that stuffed under the far right side of the dash board).. you'll need to connect those two wires with a piece of wire or paper-clip. then, with the timing light hooked up, start the car and let it warm up to operating temp. once its up to temp set the timing light to 16 degrees (advanced)... there is a little v-shaped piece that sticks off the lower timing belt cover that will line up with the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley (just below the v-shaped notch).. when the timing light strobes the two should be lined up, if they are not then loosen the three 12mm bolts that hold the distributor on (loosen, DO NOT remove them) and slowly rotate the distributor until the mark lines up with the notch. once they are lined up, re-tighten the bolts on the distributor.
Note: I have a 94 civic Si which has the same motor as your 95 EX and my service manual lists idle timing to be set to 16degrees BTDC (before top dead center).. check with your local shop or a Honda service manual to double check your proper timing setting.
18436572 is the order. potentially the harmonic balancer should have a carved notch which lines up with the timing mark on the block somehow
The degrees should be on a label under the hood.
There is a large metric bolt right (17 or 18mm) in the center of the main crank pulley. Immobilize the crank using a vise-grip equiped with a locking chain. Wrap an old fan belt (cut-to-size) around the crank and protect the serpentine gooves of the crank pulley, then wrap the vise chain and clamp onto the crank. Use a good breaker bar, or impact hammer to break the bolt torque free counter-clockwise. Note: Don't remove the four 10mm bolts on the crank pulley. The whole thing comes off as one assemble piece.
The purpose of a pulley is that it can lift heavier things at a quicker pace. Some examples of a pulley is a ski lift and alot of roller coasters have them also.
I hope i have helped at least a little bit!!! (:
It depends on what you're going for. The SI edition is considered Sport Injected. Generally it will have a slightly larger engine. My 1995 Civic Si has a 1.6 cubic liter engine with VTEC, along with four wheel disc breaks. The amenities are sometimes dealer options, my car does not have AC but some civic SIs do come with it. SIs should have tilt wheels, drivers and passengers side mirrors, etc. You can generally compare the differences at www.kbb.com
how to remove your door panel. I'm assuming you have no power windows on your dx. behind your window handle is a c-clip that is stopping you from pulling this panel off. even if you have already taken out a few screws and tried to pull the panel off...you must take this clip off, here is how. there is a special tool for this, or you can simply push back the door panel so that you can see the clip. once you see the open end of the c-clip take a t-shirt or towel and simply work it into the open end of the clip until the clip pops off.
I just used a flat head screwdriver to push one side on the clip down as far as possible and then pushed on the other side of it and it usually pops off mine luckily was still attached to the handle so i didn't have to go to a junk yard to get a new one
Bad speedo cable, Try some light oild like WD40 and if the problems goes away than replace the cable
94 is the year most vehicles were in the change-over stage from the factory from r-12 to r134, look for a yellow tag/stick under the hood as to which is in your system. It came from the factory with R12 Freon installed. Unless it has been converted to R134, then it still has R12. Due to the extremely high cost of R12, I suggest you convert it over to R134a.
The 1996-2000 Honda Civic came with the 1.6-liter SOHC 4-cylinder 16-valve engine.
Open the hood. Start the car. Let it run at idle for awhile. Eventually your temp gauge inside will get up around to the halfway mark. Around the point you should hear it click on. You really can't not hear the change. Than your coolant gauge should go down to the 1/4 mark. If it continue to heat up, your fan might be working but your thermostat might need replacing.
Owner's manual and a placard under the hood will tell you. You have a 1.6 liter inline 4 cylinder.
I know that on a 1994 Honda del sol the switch is wired to the fan relay, so anytime you felt the car was running to hot, you had to engage the fan. hope it helps.
the brakes probably got too hot, due to long and hard braking. Then it is possible that the brakes start to do that. The other problem might be that your brakepads are worn and have to be replaced.
Hi, to fix as in put a brand new bumper cover and paint job costs close to $500 dollars. i fixed my bumper for 250 with paint job because i knew some people bumper of course was aftermarket.
first, clean all the windows inside and out, any glass cleaner (blue) will do, always use a clean towel or paper towels. turn on defrosters and defogger and let the outside air come in, circulation button/dial light off, refer to your manual, this button/dial has this arrow w/c shows flow of air from the outside, for some other models it has this "AUTO" button, just activate then set desired temperature. or open the window/s a bit. rule of the thumb! a clean glass has fewer of chance on forming fog and if inside air cant escape it will fog. try blowing slowly w/an open mouth on the inside of a drinking glass... and try blowing it fast w/ your lips away a bit from the glass... youll see the difference.
The easiest way is to turn the key on without starting the engine. The ABS light should "prove out," that is illuminate, at least for a few seconds. The harder way would be to look for AA ABS valve block somewhere in the brake line assembly, which could be under the hood or under the car, though I am not sure where it would be on a Honda, since I am a Ford tech.
I just wanted to add that Civic EX models that were 4 door came standard with ABS, but definitely try turning the key to the "ON" position as stated above. Look for an amber light labeled "BRAKE" "ANTILOCK" or "ABS". This would be your definitive answer.
In 1997 EX coupes with manual transmissions no longer had the option of antilock brakes.