The easiest way is to turn the key on without starting the engine. The ABS light should "prove out," that is illuminate, at least for a few seconds. The harder way would be to look for AA ABS valve block somewhere in the brake line assembly, which could be under the hood or under the car, though I am not sure where it would be on a Honda, since I am a Ford tech.

I just wanted to add that Civic EX models that were 4 door came standard with ABS, but definitely try turning the key to the "ON" position as stated above. Look for an amber light labeled "BRAKE" "ANTILOCK" or "ABS". This would be your definitive answer.

In 1997 EX coupes with manual transmissions no longer had the option of antilock brakes.

ummm... probably a b16. it will give you a good amount of power, and still be pretty good on gas.

There is a type of bit that can cut into the remaining screw head that may help, but otherwise the screw needs to be drilled out.

If it has it, its located on the block under the intake manifold,if you follow the pcv hose from the valve cover, that should plug up into the breather box. tho i dont thing that it is servicable, i could be wrong tho. good luck.

Theree should be instructions with the tach.

you first want to mount the tach brackets where u want them. then you run your ground wire (black) and coil wire (green) through the firewall(there should be a stock hole in the firewall behind the glovebox). then you want to run ur power (red) and tach illumination(white) to your fuse box. from there u should be able to do it but the white wire goes to your headlight fuse or u will have to look at that light all through the day where as if u run it to the headlight fuse, it will only come on when u turn on ur headlights. have fun and enjoy

If you can find a donor lx of the same year you can swap the two dash kits (Tach, speedometer and idiot lights etc) and the lx/si factory tach will plug right in and the other guages will work the same if not better

I have a 98 expedition, and i had a bad coil, they are hard to get to i guess some of them are way in the back toward the dash. if your check engine light is on, it should say " cylinder # misfire, then look in your manuel and see how the cylinders are are placed in the truck. When one of mine needed to be replaced , symptoms were, ideling funny, spitting and sputering ect pretty cheep fix around $200.00 coil/labor together.

lol no u cant, u can forge the signature but if they find out u can get in a whole world of shyt.

Possible yes, probable no. What is most likely happened is he told her the CV boots in both front axles are torn/broke/exposed. This is easily identifiable by excessive grease on the inside of your front rims if it's the outer CV boots. The best solution is to have the axle replaced, but a less costly option is to have the boot replaced. The labor hours are the same but parts cost are cheaper. The con of doing a CV boot replacement is that you don't know what dirt has gotten into the CV joint that could cause failure down the road. Even if they clean the CV joint there is no way of seeing how badly damaged the bearings in the CV joint are. So axle replacement is more expensive but also offers more peace of mind. hope that helps

That'd a good price most people want at least five grand for one that old and miles

You should try to to replace you distributor cap and rotor, because over time it tends to wear off. Plus you should check the ignition coil. this should do the trick.

19mm

185/70R14

If the fluid is full of bubbles or is foamy, the transmission is probably overfilled with ATF. Other causes include using the wrong type of ATF or a plugged transmission vent.

REF:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm

silicone spray

Look for a cracked, broken, or disconnected vacuum hose coming from the intake manifold. Also make sure the intake tube going to the air cleaner does not have any holes letting air in. Click the link.

This is accurate for old style electromechanical door chimes. I believe the procedures will work with electronic chimes, but I have no experience with them so it may not. Your door chime system consists of three parts: * A step down transformer. Ususally 120VAC->24VAC and commonly mounted near the breaker panel. This powers the system. * A button by the door. * The chime unit. These three parts are wires in series. When the button is pushed it completes the circuit from the transformer to the chime. The energy draws a plunger into a solenoid. The inerta of the plunger draws it past the energized resting position, striking a chime to make the "ding". The plunger then comes to rest, held in the solenoid. When the button is released a spring pushed the plunger back out. Again, inerta oushed the plunger past its true resting position, striking the chime to make the "dong". Note: You will need a AC voltmeter for this. * Locate the transformer. You should see 24VAC (check the transformer rating to verify this) across the output terminals. If you don't see this the transformer is the problem. Check that it is powered. If the transformer has power but us not putting out an output voltage the transfoemer has failed. * Take the cover off your chime. You should see three terminals: a common, a front door chime terminal, and a back door chime terminal. Check the voltage across the front door terminal and common. It should be 0V. Have a helper push the door chime button. The voltage should go to the voltage you read across the transformer. If these measurements are as expected the chime has failed. * Pull the button out. You should see the transformer voltage across the terminals when the button is not depressed. When the button is depressed the voltage should be 0V. If you short the terminals the chime should sound. If you can sound the chime by shorting the wires the button has failed. * If you think the chime is bad, disconnect the wire from the front door terminal and connect it to the rear door terminal. There are two solenoids in the unit, so this is a quick test case. The chime should now sound as normal, but only sound one tone. If so, the front door soleniod is bad. You will have to replace the whole chime. If not, there is a problem somewhere else. * If you can't track down the problem above, completely disconnect the wiring from the transformer and short the two wires together. Disconnect the two wires from the chime and short them together. Disconnect the switch and measure the continuity between them. If you see more than a few ohms, you have a break in the wire. Have you done anything that would cut a wire or cause it to break lately? * Somewhere there is a splice, usually at one of the three components, as you need two runs of two cinductor wire to connect the 3 components. Find this and check it. You can also disconnect it and test the two runs independently.

I have a 1997 civic and the NSS was right under the dash on driver side way up under behind the arm for the clutch pedal. kinda tricky to get to it. i had a prob with my car not starting and discovered little blue plastic pieces on the floorboard. turns out it was to the switch and they corroded and broke off so it wasnt making contact when clutch was depressed. i did a temp fix by unplugging the NSS and cutting the wires and splicing them together. now this is dangerous because it bypasses it all together and now the clutch doesnt need to be depressed to start the car. so if u got it in first gear and dont depress the clutch it will longe forward.

update. the switch looks like a bolt with a depressing pin on the end that makes contact and a white plug on the other. further ?'s email me at dstolerjr@gmail.com

From Shellbert:

The part you are describing sounds like the Stoplight switch not the neutral safety switch. On our 1992 Honda Accord automatic the neutral safety switch is in under the gear shifter in the housing and the the Stoplight Switch is under the dash board and has the depression pin on it that touches the brake pedal shaft. On our Honda the Stoplight Switch needed to be changed so that we could start the car in park and then change gears to reverse or drive without using the key in the side of the gear shifter and starting the car in neutral. We had to change the Neutral Safety Swtich so that the car could change gears cause when it went out our automatic had to be driven like a standard transmission changing gears. Hope that helps. Auto Zone printed out a diagram of where our Neutral Safety Switch was located with a brief description of how to replace it.

can we adjust the clutch on honda civic 1999

The correct size is written in your owners manual and on the drivers door post. The correct size is 185/65-14.

Anythings possible with money

Not much at all. Be careful which place you go to. Some places love to use genuine Honda parts which is NOT needed for a support (unless it's an engine mount), just use a piece of metal and make your own support for CHEAP!

The fuel tank has a capacity of 11.9 gallons.

Water in the passenger side of the dashboard means the evaporator core is leaking. This needs to fix quickly as it will cause the inside of the car to be filled with water.

OEM size of 185/65-14 is listed on the drivers door post.