The 1998 Honda Passport has a 5-lug wheel pattern with a 5 x 4.5" (114.3mm) bolt pattern. Many other wheels will fit your Honda Passport including:
Be sure to select wheels that also have the correct offset and center bore for your Honda Passport. You can find wheels with the correct specifications at most tire and wheel shops as well as online retailers.
This happened to me. I took it to the dealer and they said they didnt know why it was stuck and they couldn't remove the key either. They suggested pulling out the steering column to remove the key. I declined due to time and potential cost...I could live with it for a bit. One of my employees was married to a guy who worked for a locksmith so I figured I'd check with him to see if he had any suggestions. He came and picked up my Passport and was back in less than 30 minutes, problem solved. He said there is a cable that runs from the gearshift (Automatic Trans) to the column or locking mechanism (it's been a few years and I don't recall exactly) that indicates the vehicle is in park and that cable was loose. If your vehicle isn't in park (or doesn't know its in park!) you can't remove the key. He tightened it up and viola. Check with a locksmith.
its right under the steering wheel and its also with the fuse box.
Remove the caliper and the caliper mounting bracket. Next look closely at the center of the rotor around the wheel studs, some cars have a small countersunk Allen bolt as a safety here, if your car has it remove it. After that you just need to bang them off. They get corroded and can be very difficult to remove some times, just hit them with a big hammer, don't be afraid. This is hard to describe but you don't need to try to hammer the rotor off you only need to break it loose by swinging TOWARDS the vehicle and hitting it where the pads contact, keep hitting it at opposite sides. Have you ever removed the lug nuts off a car and had to slam the outer edge of the tire inward to break the frozen wheel loos? Well that's basically what you need to do with your hammer to the rotor, it shouldn't be too difficult, and the rotor is only bolted to the vehicle by the rim once the lug nuts are tightened down.
The starter is located on the drivers side right below your manifold and right above the start of your exhaust. Good luck trying to replace. I have no idea how to do this other than to drop the exhaust...
How To Remove
1. Removed the (-) wire on the battery.
2. Disconnect 02 sensors (2)
3. Lower exhaust front left pipe (5 nuts) 3 in front flange 2 on rear. Needed 10" extension and I think the nut was 17mm
4. Remove starter (2 bolts) 14 mm
5. Remove wires on starter. One is a plug in and the other is attached with a nut 12mm. I found it easy to remove it once starter was loose I could get a better view of it.
I looked on this site for this information myself. I have a 99 Passport and needed to change the starter. It is, like the answer below says, on the driver's side forward of the exhaust and below the manifold. I didn't find any good answers for how to get it out of the compartment so a friend and I went at it this afternoon.
Disconnect the battery first. After that you may want to remove the driver's side front wheel. This gave us access to the starter for removal of the battery cable and the spade terminal which are on top of the starter while it is mounted. We then removed the two bolts that hold the starter in place. All of that took about 10 minutes to complete. On my passport the battery cable came off with a 12mm, the spade terminal is plug and play and all you have to do is push down on the tab on top and pull the terminal apart. The bolts for the starter are 14mm on my car. You need extensions to get at them though.
After that is when all of the work began. We then tried every way possible to get it out of the compartment without taking anything else apart. No luck. So we removed the heat shields around the exhaust manifold and exhaust. Still not enough room. So finally we took the 3 bolts out of the flange that connects the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe. We had to use reverse torque bolt sockets for this. The one we used was the NAPA E-14. There are nuts on the bolts but removing only those won't do the trick. They are 17mm in case you are wondering. We then had to remove the bracket just aft (rearward) of the catalytic converter to get enough play in the exhaust pipe. Once you do this, the starter slides right out of the space moving down and aft.
The new starter goes right in no problems once you are to this point. The only casualty to the whole process was one of the bolts from that flange on the exhaust manifold lost it's threads in the process. We were lucky that none of mine sheared off which is apparently a large concern and somewhat of a probability. Good luck.
in the 98 model you have to find the tensioner pully (the one that doesn't look like it actually does anything). it's the one that keeps your belt tight to run your accessories i.e. a/c, alternator/ blah blah. find the right size socket for the front nut in the center of the pulley in the front, and torque it counter-clockwise? one way or another. when you turn it the right way the pulley will actually dip down and release tension on the belt (don't be scared to put a little weight into it). once the tensioner is depressed pull the belt off the rest of the pulleys. well if you don't know what an alternator looks like look for a cylindrical housing with a pulley facing toward the front of the car with slits going all around the circumference of the back of the cylinder. poor description but hopefully helps. anyways... find the 2 mounting bolts and remove. 1 will be for locking the tension after the belt is reinserted. replace. tension pulley down, belt back on, and tension pulley up. done
Make sure you have voltage at the pump. If you do then the new pump is defective. If not, the fuse is blown or the fuel pump relay is bad.
Where is relay?
Just replace the switch, it is as simple as that: the wiring is the same. It is the switch that is different. So simply TURN OFF the power AT THE BREAKER BOX and replace the switch. <><><>
As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.
Before you do any work yourself,
on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,
always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.
IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB
SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY
REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.
Not hard at all. For the rear shocks just crawl under the vehicle, unbolt the shock from the top and bottom, pull it out, and replace it. For the front it's about the same, only difference is that you'll have to jack it up and remove the tires to get to them.
First make sure your battery is fully charged. Crank the car, if the engine is turning over (moving) your starter is working. HTH
what we do is disconnect the positive battery line. leave it off for a few seconds, then reconnect it . that normally stops the funkyness. if it acts like ours did, its because it needs a new battery, they lights flickered and beaped and the locks locked all by themselves. it was weird! try a new battery first, if not, call your local Honda dealer, mine is really helpful and helps me over the phone with everything!
Situation: It was Sunday night and I had disconnected my '95 Passport battery terminals to clean them. Totally routine, right?? Surprise!! After re-connecting them, the alarm was periodically flashing the parking and dash lights and beeping, and prevented starter operation. No friendly dealer was available... After many phone calls - even to quite knowledgeable people - no help. Owner's manual - cover-to-cover - no help, of course!
Answer: Finally called AAA. When a wrecker driver arrived, he said the battery was weak, but I knew better. After convincing him, he said "o.k." and showed me a little, black button on the driver's side, mounted on the plastic housing near the heater discharge for the driver's feet.
Procedure: He turned the ignition on, pushed the button, and turned the key off. Repeated the procedure twice more. Engine then cranked! Hellohh!!! Why on earth would any alarm manufacturer put innocent, unknowing people into such a predicament?? I can envision an even dangerous situation arising from such a foolish design! Sure hope this may yet help another owner.
put it in neutral and shift it to two wheel drive
try the idle control valve or your throttle positioning sensor i had the same
problem on one of my cars
in my experience it has been a separated tire
Actualy it is the cars internal resonance, like glass when you meat the resonance it will cause the glass to vibrate. that is how you shatter glass with sound. It is normal on older cars for this to happen.
The brown/white wire is acc power, the red/white is battery power, the green/red or white is for light switch, the red/green or orange is for the illumination controller, blue/yellow and yellow are for left front speaker, the white/red and white are for left rear, the black/orange and orange are for right rear, and the green/grey and grey are for right front.
The low water level sensor is in your radiator overflow resivoir. The reservoir is supposed to have a certain amount of coolant in it but if it's low, the light comes on. This has nothing to do with the radiator being empty. True, if the reservoir is left unchecked the radiator may eventually become low and then you will overheat but until then, it's just telling you the reservoir is low.
The check engine light (service engine soon) comes on and stays on when a problem is detected by the self diagnosis system of your vehicle. Generally, the problem is in the emissions or something that is affecting the effectiveness of the emissions, but other causes can trigger the light to come on, too. To determine the cause, the vehicle will need to be taken to a parts store or a shop that has an OBD2 scanner, or for 1995 and earlier models, an OBD1 scanner, While a scanner will not give you the magic answer, it will give you a code that narrows down the problem area.
I asked this question, now I'll try to answer it. There are two screws on the outside of the cover and there is at least one under the bumper area to unscrew. Then the cover needs to be pryed off and then you simply twist the bulb holder off and replace the bulb.
It's not really a Honda. Search under Isuzu Rodeo.
Changing a tail light on the Passport/Rodeo isn't really as difficult as I have seen some people make it out to be. I have a 2000 Passport, so I'm assuming that most other years for the Passport/Rodeo are similar. To change the bulb you have to remove the rear light fixture. You DO NOT have to remove anything on the interior of the vehicle. There are three screws to get the fixture off. The first two are on the side of the fixture in the small recesses that look like vents in the lights. They are diffuclt to see, but if you look closely, they're right there. Take them out. The third screw is located on the rear of the car, between the bumper and the fixture. It's hard to see without a flashlight. Loosen the screw until it turns very easily and gently pull back and up on the fixture. The assembly should slide right out. There is a pressure fit plastic piece that lines up the fixture. Be careful not to snap it like I did. After that, it's easy. Remove the snap fit electrical supply to the fixture and you're home free. Change the bulb and you're done. Getting that bottom third screw back in can be tricky. I found it easiest to put the screw back in and cover it with a thin piece of tape to hold it in place. Once the fixture is lined up you can secure the sides and screw the bottom in by puncturing the tape with the screwdriver. Took me an hour to figure it out the first time, took five minutes the next.
I have a 1995 Honda Passport, 3.2L. Look under the truck and find the alt. There is a slack adjuster under the alt. Loosen the bolt next to adjuster, then back off the bolt on the adjuster. Take off the bolt on the bottom of alt. Loosen the top bolt to the alt. You should be able to move the alt. to get the belt off.
You should be able to locate how to do this in the owners guide. In my 96 you press and hold one of the radio buttons and use the station buttons to set the time.
Just had this done today on my Passport. Remove the Moonroof and you will see 4 holes. 2 in the front on each side and 2 in the back on each side. Blow out the holes with an air hose (you will need a fitting on the end that will fit into the holes) then blow out each hole. When you finish, you can check to see if they are draining properly (keep Moonroof off when checking) very carefully pour water around each hole until you hear the suction. This should work.
driver's side/front on the valve cover. very visible and easy. Then there is a vac line heading to the intake manifold.