The oil pan gasket on the 92-96 Max was a silicone compound, part number 999MP-A7007 it is important you use that. It is not a Harry Homeowner job. It involves lifting and removing engine supports and mounts. If you try, buy the manual. no-one , even a master tech can tell you on the web for that job. Sorry.
Pretty much spot on, if you arent of at least Intermediate or above DIY'er, then you shouldn't tackle this project on your own.
Its not as simple as loosening a few bolts.
-you can find this in the repair manual which you can get at your local library, at your parts store, or printout from the dealership.... just go to the parts counter and ask them to print the screen that shows it.... no charge.
try checking the switch
On the 1989-1997 models remove the 4 lens screws from the backside and replace bulbs from front of housing.
2000 Passport V6 3.2L
Wow. Where to begin on this one? I guess I'll start from the beginning and tell my tale of woe. Hopefully it will save someone else from the disaster I have encountered...
Okay, like many tens of thousands of Passport/Rodeo owners, my 'Check Engine' light came on a few months back coinciding with the phenomenon of my fuel gauge reading empty - or near empty - most of the time when the level was below 3/4 tank. I checked the error code and sure enough it was a fuel sending unit malfunction. I was told by the dealer that the only way to fix this issue was to replace the entire fuel pump assembly to the tune of $700 parts and labor. No thanks.
So, I did some research and found a guy on eBay (User Name awnicol25)who sold the fuel sending unit separate from the fuel pump assembly and GUARANTEED it would fix my problem. I think I gave $25 for it. Great. I'll swap it out one fine Saturday afternoon and that will be the end of it. Well, I get under the car and I get to looking and I say to myself "I don't want to dick with taking this tank off." Most things aren't a concern for me, but dropping the fuel tank is. I don't like the idea of dealing with gas in an unstable environment. I took my car down to a guy I know who works on Hondas and he says for $100 he'll replace the FSU for me. Awesome! $125 and I'm getting this fixed.
The sending unit sold by awnicol25 on eBay works great.
I'm not sure which plug (bolt) it is, but there is supposed to be one plug for filling the transmission and one to tell when the fluid is at the correct level. There isn't a dipstick.
Look at the tires that are on it and read the numbers. Seriously. If all else fails, a 245/70/16 should work.
Just had it done on my Passport. There is no dipstick, there is an "overfill screw" in the bottom of the transmission, just above the drain plug. You don't need any special tool, but you do need to get it into a shop or put it up on the hoist in order to be able to measure it properly.
If you are planning to replace the transmission oil, here are the steps you need to follow:
-Drain the old fluid through drain plug.
-Using the vacuum pump, pump about 6-7 quarts of Dextron III into the overfill screw hole until it's starting to pour out on you.
-Let the excess fluid drain out, then close the screw.
-Start the car in Park
-Move the Transmission Shifter through all gears (keep it in each gear for a few seconds) then put it back into park.
-Let the engine idle for 3 minutes, then shut it off
-Not that the trans fluid is nice and warm you can unscrew the overfill plug again and check the fluid level, it should be to the top of that overfill level.
Fire away For the 3.2l dohc v6 it is 1,2,3,4,5,6. with the cylinders being numbered from front to back and left to right 1,3,5,right and 2,4,6 left. The left and right side of the vehicle is determined from you setting in the drivers seat For the 2.6l 4cyl it is 1,3,4,2 starting with the right front wire and going in counter clockwise direction, and the cylinders are numbered from front to back 4,3,2,1.
Timing timing is set by the onboard computer and cannot be manually set
Depends on the Mileage! it should had been changed about 60,000 miles but it you dont know, then, go ahead and change it for your pieace of mind. It would cost you some money to take it to the mechanic and have him take a look at it, but you better of changing it that way you clear all doubts.
it's weird. there is a metal wire piece that helps secure it. you squeeze them inward and pull away from the bulb. you then lightly twist and pull it out. then then it unplugs. passenger side is easier then the driver's side. i have big hands and it's horrible for me to change. good luck.
http://www.internetautoguide.com/reviews/45-int/sport-utility-vehicles/honda/passport/2002/ It seems that the EX is an up grade to the LX offering power moon roof and wood grain in interior. The link may answer other questions you have.
you should only have to take loose the heater hoses where they go into the firewall and of course the heater core itself
The Crx was just bad timing really. Also, at the time it was impractical, u.s. models were two seat only and had horrible crash ratings. I have seen several torn two bits whereas others cars of the time would have seen minor damage. Poor sales. Agree, the market for this type of vehicle was bad at the time, but the car is still classy today. CRX has a little tank that went empty fast making people think bad milage. Just bad timing after the gas crunch in the 70s/80s. ANSWER Actually, Honda did make CR-X for awhile, the DEL SOL was a Civic CR-X del sol in japan. Then Honda Hybrid was the 3gen CRX at first, but decide made it to hybrid. then they quit making them. actually they are talking about bring the CRX back. but its not practical now, people want a car with more room, good gas mileage and last long. yea CRX gas tank its small, i have a JDM 1.6 dohc vtec motor in mine, go from 105hp si US model to 158hp Japan motor and able to rev up to 8300rpm. fun, but gas don't last, still get 30mpg. Japan model CR-X Si and CR-X SiR CR-X Si come with a 1.6L DOHC NONvtec engine produce 130hp CR-X SiR come with a 1.6L DOHC vtec engine (same engine in 1999-2000 civic si except it have 10.2:1 compressor ratio, instead 10.4:1) with a short gear ratio tranny some equip LSD which both wheel accel/spin. Have a taller hood, single light bulb, clear color corner light, amber bumper light that wrap around the bumper, Sun roof its glass, Both mirror its power folding, it have a back seat. Some model even have recarao racing seat or leather/heated seat. Why can't we get some real japan spec car here?????
The starter on a '98 V-6 Passport is located at the bottom of the engine along the transmission housing on the drivers side. It is only accesible via the bottom of the car, so you'll have to get the car up on blocks or a lift. I've never removed one (yet), but it looks to me like you have to remove the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter in order to get the thing out of there. Removal of the actual starter is the easy part, as it only has 2 bolts holding it in.
I own a 1998 Honda Passport V6 2WD. Yesterday I replaced my stater. It is very easy to replace. I parked my passport with the driver side wheels on the curb, this way i did not have to use a jack. I went underneath and removed the two bolts (16mm) that held the starter in place, and then removed the wiring from the starter with 14mm socket and then the plug which was all very easy to do. After doing of this I removed the starter with no problems, I DID NOT have to remove the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter. Just be careful with all the debris and dirt underneath your vehicle, i had some fall into my eyes. I went to autozone and bought a new one for $124 with the Core (without the Core is +$50). In all it took me about 20 minutes to do. Like I said it is very easy and can be done without the removal of the exhaust pipe which everyone thinks is needed to be done. Have fun and be careful
The only way you can remove your starter is to remove the exhaust pipe connected to the exhaust monifold, but it is so hard to remove the bolts from your monifold. Its either you strip the thread or break the bolts. I replaced mine recently which and did it the long way but less hassle. Remove the two bolts that holds the starter. once you got it done, start dismantling the starter in place. Start by undoing the solenoid then the gear housing. By doing this you can easily remove the pieces from that small work space. Dismantle your new starter the same way you did on your old one and start assembling the disassembled new starter in that small work you got. Before you do anything disconnect your battery terminals. Good luck
I don't know who posted this but man your a genius. I have the 4WD and it has no room. Taking the starter apart was a lot easier than the even thinking about moving the exhaust. I think you have solved this problem. I had the old one apart and out in 5 minutes. You need a 8 mm nut driver, a 9 mm nut driver, a 12 mm wrench. The new one took a little more finesse getting the solenoid back together because you have have to get both pieces up into the space then assemble, even so it was not bad. You really need to watch the gears, one has a loose bearing and race assembly that will slip out if not careful, just keep the gears pointing up. Pay close attention to orientation when you disassemble the old one. I had the new starter back together in the space in 10 minutes but it took me 15 minutes to get the darn terminal rewired, stiff wires. In hind sight, this can be done from the top after the motor is installed. Anyway thanks a ton man, you saved me from doing all that other nonsense. Talk about not designed for maintenance.
GREAT IDEA!!! I just did it with a 2000 trooper w/4wd. I used tape to hold the motor assy and long screws until I could get a few turns in, then took off the tape. Seeing the problem you had with the clip and pos wire, I hooked those up before mounting the starter. Did have that pesky small drain hose on the bottom of the starter keep getting knocked off. It does take alittle patience but not having to worry about busted /stripped studs and dealer /shop prices (was quoted 650 to 900)"if nothing else goes wrong". One poster on here claims it will come out in one piece, not possible on my vehicle. Thx a million for the post. The aforementioned idea of taking the starter apart to make it fit sounds like a quick fix for the lazy person who doesnt want to get their hands a little dirty, not to mention the possibility of ruining your starter or at least messing it up in a minor way that will eventually lead to a break down later.... I removed the starter just as mentioned by removing the exhaust. It was intimidating at first but all you really need is a little patience and common sense. I removed a small piece of the exhaust using some WD-40 to loosen the bolts and a large ratchet. Once that piece came off, the actual removal and installation of the starter was done in 10 minutes. If you are prepared with the right tools, you can have this done the RIGHT way in a couple hours tops. After all, if it was meant to be installed in two peices, dont you think they would sell it disassembled? All you need for this job is the following: A 1/2 Rachet with a at least 8 inches worth of extensions, a swivel elbow and 14mm-17mm sockets WD-40 or some penetrating oil A 10mm wrench (actually a small ratchet with a 10mm socket works best) 1 Tube RED gasket sealant I did also see a thread that mentioned sawing off bolts to remove the exhaust which is a bunch of crap! The removal of the exhaust can be done by taking of a total of 8 nuts: Two at the manifold, two at the first bend, and the final 4 behind the 02 sensor (these 4 need to be removed to allow room for the exhaust pipe to be taken off). Everything else is CAKE! dont fall for all these threads claiming it is a BIG job, it is not :)
Changing a tail light on the Passport/Rodeo isn't really as difficult as I have seen some people make it out to be. I have a 2000 Passport, so I'm assuming that most other years for the Passport/Rodeo are similar. To change the bulb you have to remove the rear light fixture. You DO NOT have to remove anything on the interior of the vehicle. There are three screws to get the fixture off. The first two are on the side of the fixture in the small recesses that look like vents in the lights. They are diffuclt to see, but if you look closely, they're right there. Take them out. The third screw is located on the rear of the car, between the bumper and the fixture. It's hard to see without a flashlight. Loosen the screw until it turns very easily and gently pull back and up on the fixture. The assembly should slide right out. There is a pressure fit plastic piece that lines up the fixture. Be careful not to snap it like I did. After that, it's easy. Remove the snap fit electrical supply to the fixture and you're home free. Change the bulb and you're done. Getting that bottom third screw back in can be tricky. I found it easiest to put the screw back in and cover it with a thin piece of tape to hold it in place. Once the fixture is lined up you can secure the sides and screw the bottom in by puncturing the tape with the screwdriver. Took me an hour to figure it out the first time, took five minutes the next.
The heater core has gone bad if there is coolant in the interior of the vehicle. The heater core is a small radiator that is located in the dash board. It radiates heat from the engine coolant into the interior of the vehicle.
If you look under the the driver side dashboard there should be a fuse panel. Open it. On the back ofe that panel there should be a schematiac of the fuse box. Every thing should be abreaviated like PWR WIN or something like that. Find the right fuse and pull it out . If you look at the middle of the fuse you can tell if its blown or not. .
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_change_the_fuel_pump_in_a_1999_Honda_Passport&action=edit§ion=new Take it to a mechanic. I know it sucks, but to do it yourself you have to drain the fuel tank, release the pressure in the fuel line, unbolt and drop the entire tank, remove the retention ring, and then somehow put the whole puzzle back together again before you can see if it actually worked. i change the fuel pump, now have noise
i have a 94 Honda passport, my engine is a 3.2L with coil packs. the timing is non adjustable. on the 3.1L the timing indicator is located at the front of the engine by the crankshaft pulley. the timing set is 10-degrees BTDC @ 800rpm. disconnect the set timing connector at the distributor.
open the driver's side front door there is a small opening on the dash side pop open the little door and there is the fuse box if you have a owners manual it will tell you which fuse it is on the 1999 it is the fourth one from the right on the top row
The engine light is blinking because the engine is misfiring, ie the fuel is not detonating in the cylinder as it should... There are multiple causes for why this could be happening, too much or too little fuel, no spark, lack of significant compression or too much or too little air... These are the only components that you absolutely need to achieve proper combustion in an engine, this light blinking indicates that something is not taking place at the proper time or in the proper volume.
The light blinks because it is indicating that the condition taking place can cause significant damage to internal engine components, or your catalytic converter (dumping excess fuel into the converter will burn it up)
I would suggest immediately taking the car to a trusted repair shop.. Estimated cost for doing a basic tune up (starting point) is around $300, however, don't be surprised if the estimate is significantly more if other engine mechanical problems exist... Do a little research, and find someone who knows what they're talking about (who really knows, not just one of those guys who can BS really well). If you can't explain the idea to someone, the repair shop hasn't explained the problem clear enough to you, don't be afraid to ask questions.
ASE certified technician
It is behind the timing belt coves and you will have to take the timing belt off to change the water pump out
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