Go for the easy fix. The Brake Light switch (attached to the brake pedal) can cause this problem. The part number is SW-5034 and it costs $10-$15 bucks.
-you can find this in the repair manual which you can get at your local library, at your parts store, or printout from the dealership.... just go to the parts counter and ask them to print the screen that shows it.... no charge.
You can try disconnecting the battery cable for 20 min. and see if that works, or take it to an independent garage and pay less than at the dealer.
Disconnect the battery for an hour or so or take the vehicle to autozone who diagnoses and resets computer free of charge.
Autozone allows, as a matter of policy, customers to use they're code scanner which has a reset/delete setting. With it, I reset an oxygen sensor and knock sensor error, they later came back on - so, I'll be replacing sensors soon - but it did allow me to reset the error codes generated by my car ('99 Maxima) and recorded on my car's computer. A few other parts stores will also do this - call around.
The connection is to the left of the steering wheel, bottom section of the dash board.
The rotor and hub is an assembly, you need to take the wheel off, remove the brake caliper, use a hex drive to remove the lockout assembly, then there is a special socket you need to use to remove the bolt holding the hub in place.
2000 Passport V6 3.2L
Wow. Where to begin on this one? I guess I'll start from the beginning and tell my tale of woe. Hopefully it will save someone else from the disaster I have encountered...
Okay, like many tens of thousands of Passport/Rodeo owners, my 'Check Engine' light came on a few months back coinciding with the phenomenon of my fuel gauge reading empty - or near empty - most of the time when the level was below 3/4 tank. I checked the error code and sure enough it was a fuel sending unit malfunction. I was told by the dealer that the only way to fix this issue was to replace the entire fuel pump assembly to the tune of $700 parts and labor. No thanks.
So, I did some research and found a guy on eBay (User Name awnicol25)who sold the fuel sending unit separate from the fuel pump assembly and GUARANTEED it would fix my problem. I think I gave $25 for it. Great. I'll swap it out one fine Saturday afternoon and that will be the end of it. Well, I get under the car and I get to looking and I say to myself "I don't want to dick with taking this tank off." Most things aren't a concern for me, but dropping the fuel tank is. I don't like the idea of dealing with gas in an unstable environment. I took my car down to a guy I know who works on Hondas and he says for $100 he'll replace the FSU for me. Awesome! $125 and I'm getting this fixed.
The sending unit sold by awnicol25 on eBay works great.
The flasher is located on the left side of the Driver kicker panel. It is behind the vent and speaker grill of the dash. Very difficult to locate and get to. It has a clip that needs to be pried upwards to relase the relay.
Should be the "peel off" type
Remove caliper mounting bolts
Slide caliper off rotor
Rotor should slid off hub
Look at the tires that are on it and read the numbers. Seriously. If all else fails, a 245/70/16 should work.
Just had it done on my Passport. There is no dipstick, there is an "overfill screw" in the bottom of the transmission, just above the drain plug. You don't need any special tool, but you do need to get it into a shop or put it up on the hoist in order to be able to measure it properly.
If you are planning to replace the transmission oil, here are the steps you need to follow:
-Drain the old fluid through drain plug.
-Using the vacuum pump, pump about 6-7 quarts of Dextron III into the overfill screw hole until it's starting to pour out on you.
-Let the excess fluid drain out, then close the screw.
-Start the car in Park
-Move the Transmission Shifter through all gears (keep it in each gear for a few seconds) then put it back into park.
-Let the engine idle for 3 minutes, then shut it off
-Not that the trans fluid is nice and warm you can unscrew the overfill plug again and check the fluid level, it should be to the top of that overfill level.
Take it to an independent garage. On some cars it is fairly simple to remove the lock cylinder and replace it (the ignition tumbler & keys for my 1989 cavalier was only $25; unfortunately, it is a long task to get it apart). If it is the ignition swith, same applies, on some cars it is quite simple. I found that the best advice I gto was from an auto wreckers (they know how to dismantle a variety of vehicles)
First remove the right and left tires, and then proceed to remove the rotors. After you have replaced the rotors put them back on.
no problem in using synthetic oils as lubricant for this model.. but i myself use virgin oil. for me it is better for older car models.. i dont think there is a problem doing so - synthetic oil is just a lubricant like standard oil. I believe it is undesirable to mix it with standard though so you would want to change and flush the old oil type before using synthetic. it is also questionable if the benefit would make the additional cost worthwhile - I would doubt it.
top front of engine follow the top radiator hose to where it goes to engine it will be a rounded top housing the hose clamps directly to it take off housing thermostat inside
I personally would take it to a stereo shop, those guys know. There's too many wires now adays, too easy to mess your current system up. But if you must, make sure you're up on your color codes. Thank goodness for the computer.
if its an auto it should be where the linkage meets the transmission
i have a 94 Honda passport, my engine is a 3.2L with coil packs. the timing is non adjustable. on the 3.1L the timing indicator is located at the front of the engine by the crankshaft pulley. the timing set is 10-degrees BTDC @ 800rpm. disconnect the set timing connector at the distributor.
It is behind the timing belt coves and you will have to take the timing belt off to change the water pump out
I can help in the removal of the rotors on a 93 explorer. I changed mine before and just recently sold my explorer. Are the hubs automatic or manual locking? You might need a tool for both automatic and manual locking hubs. I had automatic hubs I just had to push a button for 4 wheel drive. The tool is a 2-3/8 inch hex lock nut wrench. It looks like a socket but really big. If you need pictures get a manual from an autoparts store. Hanes is the one I had it covered a bunch of years of explorers. Automatic: remove tire and caliper make a mark on the locking hub cover and the wheel hub to align it later pry the retaining rings off the hub cover then slide the cover off using snap ring pliers or a flathead screwdriver pry up the snap ring off of the spindle. It's a c shaped piece of metal that snaps on the spindle in a little groove. You might have to remove some grease to see it. remove the metal axleshaft spacer next. It has teeth on the inside that line up with the grooves on the spindle then pull off a plastic cam from the wheelbearing nut. it has a spring going around it in a groove. it's on pretty tight but it should slide right off with a little rocking backa and forth. Putting it back on is the tough part it can be tricky because the spring forces 3 metal bars down and when you put it back on another set of hands might help. after the cam there are 2 plastic spacers remove them now you need a small magnet to remove the locking key. it's in a little groove inside the locking nut close to the spindle. Place the magnet in front of the hole and the key should pop out onto the magnet Once the magnet is removed you need the Lock nut wrench and a breaker bar or socket to remove the wheel bearing nut if you can't remove it by hand. It should be tightened to 35 footpounds of torque with a torque wrench and then back it off a 1/4 turn then tightened to 16 ft-lbs when putting it back on. Then you have to play with getting the key back in place. Don't tighten it too much or too little it's gotta be somewhere in the middle. I just tightened it up and then had to play with moving the nut so keyhole would line up on the spindle. Once the nut is off the outer wheel bearing will be exposed and the rotor will just pull off. You can check the wheel bearings for wear at this point. If you are getting the rotors cut you might as well remove the inner wheel bearing and wipe all the grease off cuz the dust will get everywhere. Clean the wheel bearings off and make sure you label which was the inner one and outer one. If you replace the wheel bearings you will have to replace the races inside the rotor. If the wheel bearings are good just clean them up repack them and do everything in the reverse.
Just something to add, if your replacing the rotors, damage by hammer should be of little concern. But DO be cautious of studs and other things in that area. Use lots of WD40 on the studs. Let it sit for a while. Get a rubber mallet or a deadblow hammer and strike the surface on each side. Never use a metallic hammer, it will ruin the rotor surface. Be sure not to hit the studs.
On 89 thru 97 3.2L Passports, Rodeos, and Amigos the MAP or Manifold absolute pressure sensor is located on the right side of the intake manifold. On 98 and later it is on the right rear upper corner of the intake manifold, and on the 2.2L it is on the upper side of the intake manifold between the throttle body and the cylinder head
Usually what causes this code is a blown fuse from the wiring harness shorted on the underside of the intake manifold. It usually rubs on the brace or the bottom of the intake and shorts out a wire and blows a fuse. Do you have any other codes? If so post them. Check this first and tell us which fuse is blown in the fuse panel. It'll help find the short.
It took me sometime to figure this out too!! What I ended up doing after hours spent beating the daylights out of the rotors, I took my 4" grinder with a metal cutting cut-off wheel and cut the things off to the point where I could remove all the pieces. When doing this though, I was extremly careful to be sure I would not cut into the hub. If you are going to attempt this I would suggest long sleeves, eye protection, and hand protection. Protect the cars body with newpaper around the wheel well, there will be flying bits of metal.
use two 8mm bolts (i think that's the right size) and thread them into the two little holes evenly. hopefully the rotors will pop off sometimes the threads strip or the rotor will actually break. if it breaks i found it pretty easy to use a decent sized hammerand beat the rotor towards the car it will eventually split and losen up.
The thermostat is located at the BACK end (engine end) of the LOWER radiator hose. You'll have to do a little bit of digging to get there, but it's not bad and can be done with normal tools. If you're careful, you can do it in an hour. Previous Answer:You'll find the thermostat behind the valve cover almost all the way to the left. It will be just underneath the distributor. You will need to disconnect the main upper radiator hose, two electrical plugs and three mounting bolts. This will remove the cover. The thermostat is approx 2" wide and circular. When installing the new one, be sure to have a proper gasket (my new one didn't come with one) and set the temp pin at the top when re-installing. (The little loose piece of metal) You may have to move a few things around to get to the case. The big hose to my air filter was a real pain, but I was able to disconnect it from the filter house and just push it out of the way. There may also be some wiring you'll need to shift around for access. All you'll need is a standard ratchet with a 10mm head and a 3" extender, and a pair of plyers to pinch the hose lock. When you're done, put everything back where it was. Careful not to overtighten the bolts, they WILL snap. If possible, the ideal solution would be to use a torque wrench and use the specifications found in the repair manual. But if you're careful about overtightening, you should be okay.
Located on under the dash, mounted on the steering column
WRONG!! The neutral safety switch, or as it actually is, multi position switch, is mounted on the left(driver) side of the transmission if it is an automatic. If it is a manual it is located on the clutch pedal mount up high. On a manual you can bypass it by cutting the two wires and hooking them together. On an automatic you must change it, and if you leave the bad one on the automatic you will end up damaging the transmission.
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