No. Buy a new bag.
The most reliable way is to go directly to the belt manufacturer's site.
In your owners manual, and near the serpentine belt there should be a routing diagram for your model that will show you the configurations(AC / no AC). also your owners manual should have a full set of specs for your specific model of vehicle.
The belt routing is dependent upon the car you have.
Sounds like you have a leak in the air suspension. Check out if it does or it will burn out the pump. Monroe makes a replacement set up for the " air -Ride". It runs you around a grand to have it replace the OEM design.
Under car, bell housing passenger side. Right where the transmission bolts to the engine.
the compresser is located on the left hand side of the car under the hood.
once you open the hood remove the air cleaner housing and windshield washer resivor.
there is a panel that you lift up under both of thoese that is where the compresser is located
Check for a loose wire connection on the sides of the outlet that you plug into that causes the other two outlets to stop working. Are the screws tight? There will probably be two wires on each side, one will be the feed coming to that oulet and the other one will feed to the other outlets. Also a possible loose connection in the box that the outlet is mounted in, such as a loose or broken wire in a wire nut. Remember to shut off the power to this circuit while working on it. I hope this will help. Polarity on the third outlet could be reversed. It will blow the circuit. Is it possibly current drain i.e are there too many outlets and is the appliance something that uses a lot of current? This can be discovered by reading the manual. If lets say the junction box or fuse box had been replaced by a solid wire then this would allow more current to flow. If this wire(fuse replaced) is supplying the three outlets and a short circuit is in the appliance. The first answer is correct. The other two may be true statements, but they do not address this question.
Remove the speaker grill. There is a single screw. Take that off and the panel can be removed.
remove the handle screws cover and remove the screws. Remove the opening door handle screws. there are two of those. You will be able to see then if you look behind the handle on the black cover.
First, does the ignition key operate properly? Does the steering wheel move freely? These cars are designed to lock the steering wheel and shift lever when the key is not in the "run" position. (the one before the "start" position) This car may also have a shift lockout that blocks the shift lever unless the brake pedal is depressed. If that all seems ok, check the shift linkage from the bottom of the steering column to the transmission. It may be a rod or a cable. See if moving the shift lever also moves the transmission shifting arm. If everything checks out ok, you probably have an internal problem. Has the car been shifted into park while it was moving? That can jam the transmission lock called the "parking prawl" and will probably require tranny repair.
Try this: Put the car into neutral, THEN start it. It should shift normally--and if it does, you have an interlink issue that is caused by the break pedal needing to be depressed when you start in Park. That switch can fail and keep you from being able to move the lever into gear.
This is a potentially dangerous repair. Do not attempt this yourself. This should only be done by a qualified tech.
you have a clogged egr port going from the passenger side rar of motor our the exhaust tube is broken either way the intake port should be cleaned. you have to disasemble the intake manifold . over here it a $250.00 + parts job turbojoeEGR Channels clog first!Check this EGR Channel Cleaning article before you go any further. http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00015.html
Hey Nancy==I think it is in the right kick panel. GoodluckJoe
Are you talking about the Ignition module? If so it is attached to the side of the distributor, or a square box on the inner fender. Hope that helps, Corey
Usually the brake light swith is mounted on the brake pedal arm just under the dash. The switch is depressed when the pedal passes a certain point of travel. Usually there is a plug to unplug off the swith and some sort of mounting device, like a cotter pin, to take off. Hope this helped. Mark
Turn signal flasher opening and closing circuit
On the front of the engine block on the drivers side of the engine. Right below the valve covers.
The 1998 have had a history of a bad heater box blender door operation. I am currently in the process of looking to buy this exact same door. However, I am not had any luck in finding this door. I am being told at the moment that I have to buy the entire heater box (includes the blender door). The cost may be in the vicinity of $180.00
. If you would like to talk more about it, please send me an email and we can discuss further... Nel1962@msn.com Thanks, Nelson R.The Problem IS the Blend Door ActuatorThe problem IS the Blend Door Actuator. Search www for Lincoln Blend Door Actuator for plenty of repair tips. There's also a photo tech article at LincolnsOnline.com in the Tech section.
Check the air gap on the compressor clutch. If it's too large the clutch will stop operating after the compressor gets warmed up after a few miles. The A/C will then stop working.
Did this job to my 99 TC a couple of years ago; still have the scars to show for it (literally)! It is a royal pain in the ass!! But with the book rate @ 16+ hrs (been a couple years, but as I remember it's @ least 14), & shop rate $70+, I figured I could save a grand! The part's about $40, I joined Aldata to get the shop manual information, and 3 days later I had it back together! The job requires (if done correctly-I tried to skip steps-don't!) that you remove the drivers seat (so that you can lift the carpet out to remove the rear vent assembly (I skipped this-don't), the steering column, the dash, the windshield wiper assembly, the cowling assembly [seal this well on reasembly-Town Cars are known for leaks here; if you have unexplained wet carpet on the passenger side (front or rear), it's probably from that!], then you can get to the bolts to remove the plenum & disassemble it to remove the heater core! Then reverse the proceedure! There is extremely sharp metal exposed when the dash is removed, that's where the 'scars' are from! My rear vent doesn't work because I skipped taking out the drivers seat & had to break part of the vent assembly to get the dash out, & it rattles a bit! But the heater works & the car doesn't smell like anti-freeze! I can laugh about it now, and I'd probably take it on again! I don't know about you but I can't afford an extra grand in this economy!!! X
Check this out. very easy job I replaced both pins; upper and lower on my 1994 Lincoln Town Car in less than an hour. The grinding the old pins in half took the longest.
I ave a 1992 Lincoln Town Car and it's located on the passenger side trunk hinge. It loks like someone wrote it on a pice of paper and taped it there.
If want to change the code because of not knowing it, there is a label inside of the trunk lid "usually" on the hinge arm of the trunk *passenger side*. but in order to change it to some other series of numbers, you'd have to take the car the a Lincoln dealer and pay out the wahoo for anything that they do. Last I heard it was close to $80 an hour for them to do anything :( Anyway hope this helped...
i found the following buried in a cdrom "factory service manual" for '93-94 town car, crown Victoria, & marquis, so far, many things have turned out to be interchangeable between the crownvic and town car that i have been patching up for the last few years. anyway, hope it helps, here is the data.
To program a temporary code, enter permanent code sequence. Within five seconds of pressing last button of permanent code, press the 1/2 button. Enter any alternate five digit code within five seconds of pressing 1/2 button. _______________________________ To unlock the driver door, enter the permanent factory code or the owner's alternate code. This will also disarm the Anti-theft system, if equipped. _____________________________ To unlock the passenger door(s), press the 3/4 button within five seconds of unlocking the driver door or luggage compartment.
To unlock the luggage compartment, press the 5/6 button within five seconds of unlocking driver or passenger door(s).
To turn on the interior lamps, lift either front door handle or press any button on the keypad. All illuminated components will light.
To lock all doors, press the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time. It is not necessary to enter the key code first. This will turn off courtesy lamps and arm Anti-theft system, if equipped.
to the earlier post, yes its on the trunk hinge for '93 too even tho the factory users guide state that it is on the "deck"
to find in on the control module, you have to pull the glove box out, and remove the module,(mounted on the kick panel with 2 nuts on studs, and 3 wiring plugs) the label is hidden on the backside with the part number
There should also be information in the owner's manual as how to change the code. Otherwise, the information above is also true of a 92 Crown Victoria.
Hey Michael==Go to auto zone and they will read the codes for free and it will tell what direction you should go to repair your car. GoodluckJoe
Autozone can only scan 1996 and newer lincolns!
They CAN check the pre 96 ones but it requires them to actually look for the right connector and they are usually too lazy to do it so they just say they can't unless it's 96+. 96 got a standardized scanner across all make/model lines in US so just one code reader. When they are slow, they have checked the codes on my 94 Towncar several times. Half the time, I was told they couldn't do pre 96's and the other half they did it. They will also tell you that unless the check engine light is on, codes can't be read. That is also untrue. Codes are stored in memory for IIRC 500 ignition cycles or when the battery is disconnected, the codes are cleared.
One thing I have learned about Towncars is that damn EGR valve causes carbon buildup. Remove the throttle body. Right under that is a gasket. Go to your nearest napa store and get the gasket, it's like 3 bucks I think. Anyway, after you remove that you will see a small half canal that hides under the gasket. Most likely and it happens on all towncars especially if you use low grade garbage gas it will be clogged with carbon, get a can of gum out carbareutor cleaner and just clean it.try to clean it all nice and squeaky, Put the throttle gasket in(new one) and put back the throttle, reset the computer and let her fly, you see that check engine light go away.
that is so true!! went today to get a reading and told me only 96 on. it is lie, because last week the guy did the diagnostic for me. unfortunately he wasnt there today.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY Remove the steering wheel Remove the lower plastic trim from the column(5 phllips screws) Unplug the clock spring Remove the 3 TORX head screws from the clockspring
Strutmasters sells an aftermarket trunk latch that will install in place of the old pull down motor/latch assembly. it's cheap and inexpensive to do. I just ordered one for my 1992 Lincoln Town Car.
im sorry to say this but it sounds like the pull down moter went out. i have had a few people "slam" my trunk on my mark 7 and cause the same damage. "it closes & locks but dont sit all the way down." if that is the situation that you have, it's the part on the body of the car. it has a plug ( elect. ) they were made of plastic so get a "new" part. it is also best not to use a junkyard part, simply because you cant tell if it has been "slam" damadged! with a little patiance its not too hard to replace. it took me a few hrs to change mine out.
This is not an answer so much as a question: Can the latch be replaced with a non-moveable, fixed one from say a 92 Marquis or Crown Victoria?
I simply removed the latch and motor assembly from the trunk, took the latch and motor assembly apart, set the worm screw so the latch was in the seated position, put the motor and latch assembly back together, reinstalled the motor and latch assembly in the trunk leaving the motor unplugged, and then isolated the electrical connection with a small plastic bag and tape and tucked it in under the carpet.
the 88 may be one of the years that after market Taurus struts will fit in with a conversion package to replace the air bag suspension entirely. The alternative is dealer item only, and very very expensive.
I agree that this system can be expensive BUT: Bagmasters, American Air suspension, Arnott Ind. and Strutmasters all have replacement parts for much less than the dealers. Take a look here -> http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/tech.html <- for all the info you could possibly want.
I agree. Go to strutmasters.com, Its cheap either way (bags or springs)and you get instructions with any thing you buy. I have put springs all around on My 1989 Mark VII and trust me its easy, while your down there you might want to go ahead and replace struts and shocks.www.lincolnsonline.comfirst of all the 88 mark seven has a sraight axle a taurus has rear struts a mark7 has rear air springs if your problem is your back end sinks while parked a goes up when started you need to change both rear springs they take about 1 hr to install. if you can tell me what kind of problems you are experiencing i can help you. if the air sprins are over ten years old there shot just look at the rubber cracks from dryrot i also have a place in florida that has incredable prices for all you needs i could give you info if you just let me know what up i dont make a dime of this i love themk7 i had 7 of them over the years and learned the dealer charges 3000 dollars for a job you can do in one day for 500 bucks thats front and rear call my cell ill help you out 2018703339 gary northern bergen county nj ther are also special places wher wires brake that cause havoc on air suspension. i dont want a dime
To install intake>(1)drain coolant from radiator(2)release fuel pressure from fuel rail at fuel access port.(3)remove upper radiator hose and water neck.(4)remove injector hold down bolts and fuel rail hold down bolts and remove fuel rail assem. and injectors.(5)remove EGR pipe at fitting. (6)remove intake manifold bolts and remove intake manifold(7)remove old intake gaskets and clean head surfaces. Install new intake in reverse order of removal.
Two options that I had to do to fix mine.
First Option - Remove the part of the electric motor that is in the trunk. - Get some test leads and make the mechanism turn all the way down to the bottom of the stroke using the cars battery. When you touch the leads to the batter on the connecting clip, the motor will move the mechanism up or down. If it goes the wrong way, reverse the wires - Use your key to unlock the trunk until you can do the Second Option.
Second Option - Go to a junk yard and get all the parts from a dead Town Car. That means everything from the trunk lid (switch, solenoid, etc...) and from the inside of the trunk. You won't need the lock because you can still use the old one. - Replace your broken stuff with the stuff from the junk yard. Cost - about $10 - $15. If you go to a Lincoln dealer, be prepared to pay over $150.
Tools you will need: Small sockets, maybe a screw driver, and test leads.If the only problem is not closing fully there are a couple of other options.One is to loosen the bolts holding the lower latch in place and adjusting them to their limits. They should have adjustment play side-to-side and up-and-down.Another action that has worked for me, especially when installing a lower latch from another vehicle, is to turn the threaded latch rod (worm gear) up or down as required before installation/reinstallation. This establishes a new start point for the travel of the lower latch during closure. This is a trial and error procedure as the two latches must also hook up for closure..By the way, a cadillac latch will also work.
MY MOTOR WAS GOOD< SWITCH WAS BAD..........
I have a 93 Town with same issue. After troubleshooting it I found the motor was fine but the switch on the motor assembly was the problem. Part Nr. 16601101. I did some searching on the internet but could not locate a replacement. I drilled out the brass rivets, opened it up and cleaned all the contacts. It was easy to see the problem -17 years of dust/dirt/wear. It's now working again. Not sure how long it will last. Some of the contact strips inside were a bit worn. I'll have to hunt up a new switch next time it goes.
Ckean bith ends of the battery cables.
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