It is located just above and behind the e-brake pedal. You will need to remove the lower dash/foot cover to see it. It is silver in color and about 6"x9". It is removed by loosening a bolt that hold the wiring harness to it, in the engine compartment using a 10mm wrench. It will be located just below the brake boost on the firewall.

On a 1996 Lincoln Town Car :

( 20.0 U.S. gallons / 75.6 litres )

Assuming you meant what is the common cause of rear air suspension LEAKS:

As the airbags age, they can develop leaks. That's probably the most common start to the problem. But it gets more complex.

Initially the automatic suspension leveling sensors and brain will have the air compressor pump more frequently in an attempt to keep the car where it should be. Eventually the compressor may run almost continuously, and it was never designed for that type duty, and will burn out.

So dependfing on how long and severe the failing suspension, it might be a case of replacing the airbag(s), or the vastly more difficult and expensive replacement of the air compressor as well. In my 1995 Town Car the compressor was at the front of the car on the driver's side, roughly underneath where the battery is located if I remember correctly. I think my town car was about 10 years old with 100,000 miles when the rear suspension failed. (By failing I mean it would no longer level the car...it was still at that time driveable.)

Rather than gamble and spend over $2000 on repairs (as my independent shop thought it was the computer that needed replacing, an analysis I disagreed with), I opted to order an air bag suspension replacement kit, consisting of coil springs and new rear shocks, from the web. I had them shipped to my mechanic's shop, they replaced the air suspension on a time-only charge, and I drove away happy.

I think the parts from the web and the labor totaled about $650, and had I been willing to take the time I probably could have swapped things on my own. From the instructions it wasn't that tough. By the time I drove a few miles home I was used to the coil spring suspension.

I was happy with this decision the rest of the time I owned the car. The only difficulty others have had is this may result in a permenant air suspension warning light on your dashboard. I didn't have that trouble because my coil spring supplier was aware of it and told me which wire at the computer board (located behind and below the glove box) to cut. (And before you ask: I know longer remember which wire, and no longer have the car to go look for it.)

Good luck,

Paul

kansas

I have a 95 town car whose rear air shocks started leaking and not keeping the rear of the car up. Estimates to repair ranged from $1500 to $2500, as the shop (that I didn't trust much) said the computer that controls it needed to be replaced, and maybe the compressor...they wouldn't know until they replaced the non-refundable computer.

Instead I did web searches and found a vendor who sold me regular springs and shocks to replace the air bag suspension. I don't remember the exact cost, I think parts plus paying the shop to install them came to around $600 total. You can probably save a couple hundred if you make the swap yourself.

It took me about 5 miles of driving to "get used to" the different ride. 20,000 miles later and I'm still very pleased with the choice to dump the air suspension and go over to essentally what's in Crown Victorias (which are based on the same general platform.)

If you want/need me to look up who I got the kit from contact me off-list via email.

Paul Hoffman, prhkgh@comcast.net

The 4.6 liter takes 5 quarts unless it is the police version that takes 6 quarts.

You DoNOT Repair!!!! SERVICE IS MADE BY REPLACEMENT ONLY. DO NOT ATTEMPT REPAIR OF: CRASH SENSORS, AIR BAG SLIDING CONTACT, AIR BAG DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR, AIR BAG MODULES IF A PART IS REPLACED AND THE NEW PART DOES NOT CORRECT THE CONDITION, INSTALL THE ORIGINAL PART AND PERFORM THE DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE AGAIN. WARNING: AIR BAG MODULES WITH DISCOLORED OR DAMAGED COVER DEPLOYMENT DOORS MUST BE REPLACED, NOT REPAINTED. NEVER PROBE THE CONNECTORS ON THE AIR BAGS. DOING SO MAY RESULT IN AIR BAG

DEPLOYMENT WHICH COULD RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.

ALL COMPONENT REPLACEMENTS AND WIRING BEING SERVICED MUST BE MADE WITH THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE DISCONNECTED FOR A MINIMUM OF ONE MINUTE BEFORE SERVICE OR REPLACEMENT IS ATTEMPTED. THE INSTRUCTION "DISCONNECT" ALWAYS REFERS TO A CONNECTOR. NEVER DETACH A COMPONENT FROM THE VEHICLE WHEN INSTRUCTED

TO "DISCONNECT."

You probably have bad rings. Not a cheap or easy fix. You should talk to a mechanic.

If that vehicle has a vacuum operated transmission modulator, that could be the source of the oil smoke. Check the level of the transmission fluid.

It is located under the dash near the blower motor.

The engine should begin producing heater output within the first minute. Might take a little longer in colder climates. Although it sounds like I may not be warming my car up before turning on the heat blower, this never happened until a month ago. Even if there is no heat, shouldn't it at least blow cold air? Nothing blows....what could it be? If the BLOWER(FAN) is not blowing no mater what speed or settings are used on the climate control center(AC,DEFROST), the the motor itself is bad. A good test is to take a ruber malet and lightly smack the motor directly with the engine running. If the motor suddenly starts blowing then the motor is bad. About $110.00 to replace with common hand tools.

FRONT @ CENTER OF MOTOR FOLLOW TOP RADIATAR HOSE

that light is for the factory keyless entry and starter disable.once it's enabled if someone breaks in you car and tries to hotwire or jimmy the ignition it automactically disables it. but it's not a car alarm!

it is in the windshield

On a 1998 Lincoln Town Car :

firewall

4 - 8

3 - 7

2 - 6

1 - 5

front of vehicle

the way to trouble shoot the blend door is if it stays in hot or ac mode means bad Blend door

You can check glove box, under trunk lid, or just take it to a dealer and they can put it on a computer and pull it up for you.

THIS VECHILES ARE EQUIPPED WITH A SYSTEM THAT YOU CAN PROGRAM HOW YOU WANT YOUR MIRRORS TO BE WHEN YOU USE IT, WHEN YOU USE YOUR VECHILE, THERE ARE TWO BUTTONS BY THE WINDOW SWITCHES THAT SAY 1 OR 2 PRESS #1 AFTER YOU SET YOUR MIRRORS EVEN YOUR SEAT TO YOUR PREFRENCE, SO IF SOMEONE ELSE USES YOU LINCOLN AND THEY MOVE THE MIRRORS AROUND OR SEAT ALL YOU HAVE TO DO WHEN YOU ARE READY TO DRIVE IT IS PRESS THAT BUTTOM #1 BUTTON WHERE YOU PROGRAMED THE SEAT AND MIRRORS TO YOUR PREFRENCE ,THE #2 BUTTON IS OPTIONAL SOMEONE ELSE FOR EXAMPLE YOUR WIFE CAN PROGRAM IT TO HER PREFRENCE

The fuse box is below and to the left of the steering wheel by the brake pedal ( it has a cover on it )

Also , the Power Distribution Box ( which is " live " ) is located in the engine compartment

no the towncars only have rear airbags all years

I have a 1995 Towncar. Bought it with 53,000 miles on odometer. It now has 108,000 miles on odometer. Hace driven it 55,000 miles in two years.

Running gear ( motor, transmission, rearend has been flawless.)

Problems with car so far.. Air bag light on, abs light on. Right front window regulator went bad, fuel pump relay went bad. Cost me 13 dollars to replace it ).., other than that, no complaints.

So far this has beent he best one.

First, does the ignition key operate properly? Does the steering wheel move freely? These cars are designed to lock the steering wheel and shift lever when the key is not in the "run" position. (the one before the "start" position) This car may also have a shift lockout that blocks the shift lever unless the brake pedal is depressed. If that all seems ok, check the shift linkage from the bottom of the steering column to the transmission. It may be a rod or a cable. See if moving the shift lever also moves the transmission shifting arm. If everything checks out ok, you probably have an internal problem. Has the car been shifted into park while it was moving? That can jam the transmission lock called the "parking prawl" and will probably require tranny repair.

Try this: Put the car into neutral, THEN start it. It should shift normally--and if it does, you have an interlink issue that is caused by the break pedal needing to be depressed when you start in Park. That switch can fail and keep you from being able to move the lever into gear.

It is approximately 275 miles from San Antonio to Dallas. Gas mileage can vary from vehicle to vehicle, and also depends on how fast you drive.

under hood driver side, you will have to remove black cover, on back side of cover the relays will be listed

Try inside the trunk, on the support. It is a little sticker, 5 digits. Go to the dealer. Good luck