I had an extrememly loud grinding soun under my hood one day when my car ran hot i new it was my water pump and i tried to get home and the car stalled out and would no longer start because it shredded the timing belt. I would have someone look at the water pump and the alternator.AnswerRemove the fan belt and start the engine to eliminate alt,water pump. Can do the same for power steering to eliminate the pump. If you still have the noise, the noise is normally engine or trany. AnswerIf it's a grinding noise it can also be one of the bearings in your wheels. Don't take apart your engine just yet. :) AnswerI had this grinding or whirring noise when driving my 86 crx Honda hf model. The solution was replacing the berring in the front wheel hub. Upon inspection the hub itself did not need replacing only the berring. It now is free of the noise. AnswerI have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier and I also replaced the wheel hub bearing assembly. YOU CANNOT take the bearing out of the hub, it is an entire assembly.
i agree check the bearings first... you can do this your self by jacking up the front of the car so the tires a off the ground so you can move them. Once the tires are off the ground you grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if it has play in it ( try to move the tire top to bottom ) if you have play then you need to service your wheel barings or replace them
-your brakes can also make grinding or squealing noises but both at once would not be likely
I had mine just like that. and I remove the 2 belts, remove the water pump and put a new one and you can save the old coolant as long as you did not put it to the dirty pale. It's going to run just like normal again.
No. Actually Yes and No. The rear windows retracted straight back only part way. Enough for a little vent. They couldn't go straight back too far because of the opera windows.
the compresser is located on the left hand side of the car under the hood.
once you open the hood remove the air cleaner housing and windshield washer resivor.
there is a panel that you lift up under both of thoese that is where the compresser is located
It's the turn signal, windshield washer stalk in the steering columm, all one piece and the whole thing is called the MULTIFUNCTION SWITCH.
DID you check for a air leak,fuel,ok. Carburator?
Yes!!! Actually it is not specifically designed for a mark viii (that i know of) there is one for a mustang cobra, which has the exact same 4.6L 32valve engine and will bolt right on. Search yahoo or google for a mustang cobra supercharger (Or just a 4.6L DOHC engine)
The 'ping' could be caused by the timing being 'advanced' too much..., or more likely by low octane fuel. First, try adding a bottle of octane booster to the gas. If this solves the problem, don't buy gas from the place you bought from that caused the 'ping'. If it does not solve the problem, have the timing checked (and pray you don't have to replace the chains and gears). If you hear a 'clicking' type noise, I would say the lifters are a bit 'sticky'. If the lifters are not worn out, try adding about 24 ounces of B12 Chemtool to your oil before you change it next time and drive it five or six miles. Drain your oil, replace your filter and oil (and be more diligent in changing your oil in the future). If it is 'sticky' lifters, this should solve your problem. If it doesn't, you may have a hydrolic lifter that needs replacing. If the ping happen when the engine are not running about a couple of hours it can be the hydraulic lifters. The pinging from the initial startup is a typical ford thing, it is simply because the engine starts rapidly and the oil has not reached a few lifters yet(its dry for a second), typically when it has been sitting off all night, the ping should go away after a second or two, if not it could be a lifter problem. Answer #3 Define Pinging ? there is a bulletin out for the Mark VIII's and 4.6 Liter in general. T he timing chain tensioner bleeds off after setting several hours / overnight = cold start. The timing Chain will rattle for a few seconds until the tensioner pumps back up. How to tell. If you hear this try, starting your engine and kill it immediately do this two times. Then start engine and listen. If the noise is not there do this for the next several cold / cool starts if the noise is gone then the next cool / cold start, start the engine as you normally would. If the noise is there, it's the Tensioner & chain rattling not engine ping. There is an updated timing chain tensioner available to cure the problem. Problem is, I believe it pays 12 Hrs. labor rate to do the job not including any parts. A shop charging $75.00 a Flat Rate Hour that would be $900.00 labor plus parts. And if you need any thing such as Timing Chains & Gears . . . . Call your Banker to Okay the loan. Me? I started using an old engine detergent additive called CD2 it's detergent not an oil thickener and until it had a chance to work I started the engine twice everyday / cold start. Now sometimes it rattles most of the time it doesn't. I'm continuing the use of CD2 hopefully it will clean the tensioner up and stop the rattling for ever? drl
open the drivers door turn on the ignition or start the car then close the door...this will reset the computer relay to the compressor........i know this works for a fact i have had3 mark viii'sAnswerI've been told to shut it off at the switch in the trunk and then disconnect the battery for a little while. Then reconnect the battery and turn the switch back on. I haven't had to do it myself so this is untried for me. AnswerIf the Check Air Ride message comes up, you likely have a failed compressor, or a leaking air spring. There is a lot of information, including the directions on how to replace the front air spring/shock modules at www.markviii.org. There's also a troubleshooting FAQ here: http://www.markviii.org/psjs_faqs/04051030.shtml Answer
press the red button in the same door as the air ride on off switch in the trunk
There is a tensioner that is easily moved with a 1/2" socket or breaker bar. Release the tension, and the belt will come right off. Route the new belt around the pulleys, push down on the tensioner again, and route the belt around the tensioner pulley. A very simple job that should take no more than 5 minutes to do.
You can find more Mark VIII repairs at www.markviii.org.
The best way to do this is to put the vehicle on jack stands as high as you can and follow these steps...
-Disconnect the battery (Neg. first always)
-Remove the drive shaft by removing the 4 bolts from the rear end. The drive shaft will slide out of the tail shaft of the transmission.
-Remove the starter
-Remove the exhaust Y pipe section
-Remove sheet steel inspection plate usually held on by 2 10mm bolts on the bottom of the bell housing
-Looking inside the the bell housing you will see a flex plate. You will also see nuts which are usually 15mm. There are 4 of them, these are called torque converter nuts. You may not see all 4 nuts. To remove all of them you must place a 24mm or 7/8s ratchet socket on the harmonic balance drive pulley on the front of the engine and turn the engine clockwise till you see the nut on the flex plate. You will need to remove the visible nut and turn the engine till you see the next one. Continue till you remove all 4.
-Place a floor jack with a 2x4 wood on the floor jack plate under the transmission oil pan.
-Remove the cross member from the vehicle. Usually 2 bolts on the chassis and 2 nuts on the end of the transmission tail shaft housing.
-Next lower the floor jack slightly. NOT ALL THE WAY DOWN!!!!
-On the drivers side you will see Shifter cable and wire harnesses. Disconnect these.
-On the passenger side you will see 2 transmission cooler lines. Remove these as well.
-Lower your floor jack more until you see the top of the bell housing. Using long 3/8s extensions remove the top 4 bell housing bolts usually 15mm. It is helpful to have a 3/8s universal as well. once removed Jack the transmission back to its original height and remove remaining lower bell housing bolts.
- Your Transmission is now free from the engine. BE CAREFUL
- Slightly move your transmission back a few inches and lower your transmission to the floor. Slide out the side of the vehicle
Lift your vehicle at least 2 feet from the floor so you can work and get the transmission out from under the vehicle
After you remove your drive shaft use a freezer bag and duct tape. Place the bag over the tail shaft and duct tape the bag to the trans sealing the bag. Youll thank me at some point trust me.
When replacing the trans make sure the torque converter is set on the input shaft correctly by turning and pushing in on it on the input shaft. Once in place it will make a thud sound and will turn freely. Make sure it is in this position at all times!! When you put the transmission back in first make sure the studs on the converter are lined up with the flex plate mounting holes. Also once the studs are in the holes on the flex plate reach though the starter hole in the bell housing. Put your finger on the converter and try to turn it. You will not be able to turn it but you will hear the studs clank against the flex plate. It should do this freely. You will see what I mean. If you cant do this the torque converter is not in place correctly on the input shaft.
Cehck the electrical panel in the engine compartment on the left side
The compressor is located behind the passenger side of the front bumper.
Remove the front passenger tire (remember to turn off your compressor using the switch located behind the little door on the left inside of your trunk), remove the plastic 'cowling' from the under side of the fender. This will give you access to the pump without too much difficulty. == ==
there is a M.L.P.that is located on the side of the transmission.its connected to the shifter and tells the trani. what gear you shifted in. it is very simple to change.you have one connector and two screws.very easy.
Open and read your owner's manual to find this information. Use only the octane rating stated there. If it requires premium, do not use regular. Pinging and engine damage can occur. It says "Premium Fuel Recommended", so while you can use regular, you can expect less power and worse fuel consumption than if you used premium. The difference you find in filling up the tank is usually offset by the worse fuel mileage, so you don't end up saving any money. The Mark VIII has a pretty sophisticated engine management system, and it's knock sensors should prevent any detonation. You can get away with using regular (87 octane) fuel, but you will lose gas mileage because the system will add more fuel to each combustion cycle in an attempt to offset the difference in octane rating. In addition, the knock sensors will only tell the engine computer to adjust fuel timing to avoid detonation after they detect that detonation has already occurred (damage may already have been done). If you are going to insist on running regular in your Mark VIII, you would be wise to not floor it.
If you want to use regular gas without the negative consequences, look into purchasing and installing chip with a tune customized for running regular gas. -JMiles_T Answer #4 I see no problem running 87 octane in either one of my two 1994 Mark VIII vehicles. Both get between 20 & 22 MPG combination in town and some HWY and both get 30 MPG HWY no pinging no loss of power. They both have over 140,000 miles, One Hundred & Forty Thousand Miles on them. Neither one uses any oil between oil changes and they are changed at 3,000 mile intervals. The bigger problem I see in loss of performance and mileage is when my local station snuck in 10% alcohol on me. Mileage dropped immediately 4 miles per gallon. I changed stations with a sign stating 100% Gas No Alcohol mileage came right back up. If you run 87 Octane fuel in your Mark VIII and it pings, you have other issues. Find a repair shop that has a fuel system cleaner (Machine ) called MotorVac. & have your fuel system & injectors cleaned. Also there is an Octane switch on the Mark VIII's it's under / around the driver side strut tower cover. It looks like the old spout connector in fact it's interchangeable mine is still in place but it can be removed and that will drop the timing 4 degrees. Look close cause there will be two ( shorting ) bars / Switches ~ ~ one is the spout the other is the Octane switch / shorting bar. I didn't need to remove mine it was unnecessary. I'm just letting you know that it is there if you feel the need. I've been making my living working on vehicles for 42 years ASE Certified Master Tech W/L1 Advanced Diagnostics. Take it for what it's worth, but 87 Octane does fine in both my Mark VIII's no problem. drl
If you're turning on your heat and cold air is coming out, then this is what you can try. You have to get behind the glove box. Open the glove box, and just find all the screws that are holding the actual "box" part on door. Once this is out, you should be able to see a some wires and body paneling. Feel behind the lower left side of the glove box and try and find a lever which will move up and down. This lever switches your vents from the heating core to the A/C. Start up your car and put the heat on full blast. Then, while feeling the lever, push the "max A/C" button. If this lever doesn't try to move, there is your problem. Try using a rubber band to hold the lever in the heating position. You won't be able to use the A/C once the lever is bound, but when summer comes, just take off the rubber band.
Facing the engine, it is located on the back, right side of the engine almost touching the firewall, just about in a line between the top of the right fuel rail and valve cover. It is about three inches down. If I'm not mistaken the EGR valve is located just below the throttle body on the back side of the motor up against the firewall.
well, that's a pretty vague request. what kind of information are you looking for in regards to installing the Ac compressor?
It is on the left rear of the engine.
With great difficulty.
The hold down is a block at the bottom that holds the lip of the battery, and there is a big long bolt that screws in to hold it down. I'm assuming that bolt broke.
Start by disconnecting the battery, and you may want to remove some of the shrouds around it to give yourself some working room.
Cut off the bolt as close to the hold down block as you can, ideally so it's flush with the surface of the block. Then, drill it out. Replace the bolt with a larger one, or just get a different hold down from your local auto parts store.
You have to check to see what codes are causing the check engine light to be flickering etc. that will be your starting point. Sounds like oxygen sensors though. the spark plug boots are cracked my 98 had the same problem $3.80 each
If you're asking about the ones at the corner, the whole housing comes out to get to the bulbs. Just pull back the carpet lining, and you should see a few nuts that hold the housing in place. If you're referring to the high mounted brake light in the rear window, that should be accessible from the trunk.
if your not going to use the old factory stereo, take it apart and you will find that the circit board is labled where it plugs in. Or go to your nearest stereo shop and get a wiring harness for $20.
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