aftermarket is a clear red or blue the stock is blue if u cut this wire remember that if this wire touches and part of the cars body that is will fry the deck(stero) you have tp take the battery out of the car first before u mess with this wire

30 front and back

There are alot of vacuum hoses on a Mark but the first one to check is the little black one that runs from the drivers' side to the passenger side alittle more than half way down the engine across the intake.

I think the button is on the lower side drivers dash or the emergency one is in the trunk, the side of the filler door look for a wire with a little handle on it and pull. It may have fallen behind the side panel so check that if it's not in plain sight.

look in the bottom half of your center console, there will be a small button. usually its labeled "fuel"

Fuel door release button/switch.

Open hood, two access panels on either side in the front, open and twist the connector to release and then remove the bulb, with paper towel or rag, don't want bare skin touching the bulb. Where were you able to find the Hid bulb that is used? Had to be very costly.

You have to check the offset.

Remove the door panel by taking out the Phillips head screw behind the light lens. Remove the swithes on the door panels carefully, they pop out and then there will be Phillips head screws holding the wire to the switch itself. The door panel raises upward and is held on by clips built in to the door panel.

Once the door panel is removed, the speakers screws will require a star tip driver.

Rear panels have grilles that snap off from the bottom first and then they slide down and off for easy access to the rear speaker. Both sizes are 5 X 7's or 6 X 8's, either one.

The Air suspension Relay is located on either the front or side of the air suspension compressor bracket, which is located inside the front right wheelwell, below the headlight. The easiest ways to access it are to remove the lower valence / front spoiler assembly and look up on the right side (it is roughly 2" x 2" x 1/2" thick with an Aluminum heat sink in the middle), or to remove the front tire and the front fasteners from the inner fender liner (there are two in the wheel lip opening, two in the lower valence to inner fender liner joint (well, three actually, but only the innermost two need to be removed, and a plastic clip that attaches to the side of the engine compartment which is removed by pulling the smaller center round pin out first, then pulling the outer round piece out. The inner fender well can then be pulled rearward to access the relay. There is an identical one in the left side wheelwell that is for the ABS Brake system, these can be interchanged to test operation.

It should fit right in.

You fill the container on the drivers side and then remove the crossover plug that's in the middle of the black pipe, quarter inch square in the middle of it and fill till it comes to the top and burp the hose, (squeeze) to get as much air out as possible. You may have to do this a few times to get all the air out, then screw back in the plug and you're done. You fill the container on the drivers side and then remove the crossover plug that's in the middle of the black pipe, quarter inch square in the middle of it and fill till it comes to the top and burp the hose, (squeeze) to get as much air out as possible. You may have to do this a few times to get all the air out, then screw back in the plug and you're done.

Make sure you have it out of AUTO LIGHTS ON. Do the lights automatically come on when the car is started? If so, the Auto Lamp switch may be on.

loosen the bleeder screw and use a "C" clamp to push the piston back in. Loosening the bleeder screw will allow air to get into the system and the brakes will have to be bled

!!!The rear calibers have the emergency brakes attached. You have to rent a kit from your local auto parts store!! The cylinder has to be rotated to move in!!!

The best way is to buy the little square tool for a couple of bucks at an auto store and you have to turn the piston into the caliber, hope you didn't try to force the piston in too hard otherwise it's toast.

You really need the vacuum machine that is used to suck out all the old stuff and moisture etc. to do it right.

Reclaim refrigerant. Be sure system is empty. Unhook refrigerant lines from condensor, and evap core. Best to use a "flush gun" and compressed air. Brake clean is a good solvent to use, as it evaporates quickly, and leaves no residue. Flush, and back flush. Use a clean container to capture the solvent as it comes out. Inspect to see if metal flakes are present. Usually one or two flushes in each direction will get all of the grayish, metal flakes out. Usually their is very little, if any in the evap core. On some Fords where compressor failure is catastrohic, and large amounts of metal are deposited in condensor--then maybe necessary to replace condensor. Especially on Rangers, and Explorers.

After flush complete. Then be sure and blow compressed air through the evap, and condensor core to remove residual solvent. Be sure and install the correct type, and amount of refrigerent oil in compressor and accumulator. Some techs will put a little oil in the evap & condensor too. My experience has shown that is not necessary. After system is evacutated and charged, check hi-side pressure with manifold gauge assbly to make sure their are no "pressure spikes", this could indicated a faulty condensor core.

Actually i converted mine over to coils and i got instructions with mine on the passenger side you have to pull the carpet back under the dash by the door. and their is a computer board there and there are two white plugs the one you have to unplug is kind of hard to get to

max and mollie

This maybe the problem. If you used an oil impregnaged air filter you may have oil on the mass air flow sensor thin filiment wire. This will cause the engine to idle badly. Remove the mass air flow sensor and you will see 2 really thin wires. Now you can go to the store and some auto parts places sell spray to clean the wires. I would use brake clean non clorinated!!!! do not spray full force but just a little and let dry completely. This is very common with oil impregnated filters. Ford does recommend that you do not use such air filters on mass air flow vehicles.

A lot of times the lens goes inward and stops the needle from moving, check that first.

First I removed the oil filter and drained the radiator fluid. Unplugged the oil sending unit. Removed the radiator reservoir and moved the power distribution box to gain easier access to the 3 upper bolts. Removed the radiator hose from the assembly.

Slid assembly out and scraped off remaining gasket and installed in reverse order. Its not the easiest thing in the world to change. Good Luck

no

0.54 and remember to use anti seize grease