I found the best suited oil for the 3.0L TD 1KD is castrol RX super, this oil environments the manafactures specs. RX super is 15W 40, and would not be suitable for environments that reach -7degrees like alpine regions. RX super has good detergent properties to keep your engine clean. althow Toyota recommends oil change at 10 000k intervals, most people would suggest to change at 5000k instead. the engine should take 6.9L of oil with a filter change
The 2006 Toyota RAV4 has a "Roc Lock 2" rear wiper arm attachment which is actually quite easy to change once you find the hard-to-find correct rear wiper blade. See related links below for information on the replacement rear wiper and for installation videos.
Usually it is the mass air flow sensor or the O2 sensor. Also, the theft system is known to turn the engine light on.
Why guess when you can go to Auto Zone or other parts stores and have the codes read for free.
Mine Came on after about 100,000 miles and it was just dirty spark plugs. Changes the plugs and the wires and it never came on again. Car was stuttering when going up hills and it fixed that too.
A loose, cracked, or defective gas cap may also be the culprit.
Mine was a small 4.5 inch vacuum hose that was cracked, located right in front on the top of the 2.4L engine. It is an easy & cheap thing to check before replacing sensors.
transmission fluid level is low
- I had a temperature sensor malfunctioning and sending a poor mixture of fuel to the engine. When I was accelerating a lot the engine would hesitate and jump. Repair was $200 and works fine now.
I had the same problem with my 2002 Malibu and had to have the catalytic converter replaced in it. You would have to visit the dealer to make sure, because advance or other similar stores cannot tell you what is wrong with it. A sure sign that it needs replaced is if the check engine light stays on and your losing power.
I had a 0403 error on my 98 Malibu and one place said it was the cat converter and both O2 sensors and wanted $550 took it to another place and they said it was just the cat converter and replaced it in 25 min for $220. That fixed the problem and I passed inspection ok.
Just to correct the one above me, I'm assuming that was a P0430, as p0403 would be an EGR code. And most places will not warranty a cat if you don't replace the O2 sensors with it. And not all cat failures involve low power, that only happens if they clog. To answer the original question, there are hundreds of reasons why the CEL can come on. And the theft system will not set a check engine light, though it can store a P1626 in the PCM for excessive cranking. That code doesn't request the check engine light though.
The most commonly known drug is known as POTACS or in a scientific term Magnesium Diflouroxide. The effects of this drug can induce hallucination, vomiting, constipation and is overall very harmful to your health. ITS TOTALLY AWESOME!
When you are standing right in front of the engine compartment with the hood up, it's between the engine block and radiator underneath manifold cover. Look for the oil dip and it's right in front of it.
These are the models that are being recalled in the current program.
Always check with the Toyota Dealer to make sure.
the 2.2 engine of 1998 and up don't have PVCAnswerI recently replaced a valve cover gasket on a 98 sunfire, and was looking for the pcv valve. I could not find, even looking in a chilton manual. Eventually I called GM, and that is when I found out they are built in to the valve cover there is nothing to replace. The Elbow that comes out of the top of the valve cover hooks right into the air box. That is what I originally thought was the PVC.
Ya didnt look at the Gogle postings on this long enuf.... I dont own a 2004 rav , but i was doing some research on pt cruiser and got scared to death about what i read I guess im gonna buy the RAV !! aNY WAY THERES A POST that says all you need do is put the trip meter in Odometer... And shut the car off .. hold the reset button down and and turn key back on again ... KEEP HOLDING THE BUTTON IN !after a bit the light stops blinking and its all reset.. Daughters 1998 RAv 2wd 4door has been an absolute Gem ! requireing only tires , and standard maintenance for 48k miles..
I have a 5.8L in my 1990 and it is located behind the intake on the passenger side. Right by the valve cover.
Hey MM==As far as I know it is like the rest of the 3800 engines and in in the intake manifold. There should be a hose going from it to the throtle body. Good luck Joe To replace the PCV valve: 1) Remove SC plastic shroud, 2) Note the black plastic PCV cover about 3 inches to the right of the shroud bolt, on top of the SC/Intake Manifold. It does not have a hose connected to it!! 3) Remove the 2 10mm bolts and lift off the PCV Cover. 4) A hold down coil spring can be removed and 5) the PCV valve sits in the recess. Reverse assembly with new PCV valve. With this location DO NOT EXPECT big change in operation - the old valve just gets a little varnished... To replace the PCV valve: 1) Remove SC plastic shroud, 2) Note the black plastic PCV cover about 3 inches to the right of the shroud bolt, on top of the SC/Intake Manifold. It does not have a hose connected to it!! 3) Remove the 2 10mm bolts and lift off the PCV Cover. 4) A hold down coil spring can be removed and 5) the PCV valve sits in the recess. Reverse assembly with new PCV valve. With this location DO NOT EXPECT big change in operation - the old valve just gets a little varnished...
There is a vacuum hose between the firewall and the back of the motor, it is formed with the 2 ends different diameters. The hose collapses when it is running which causes the engine to stall. I believe this is a dealer only item. Just replaced mine and the car runs fine now.
Take it to auto zone and have the codes read for free.
its just a vacuum hose probably. mine did it before too.
Autozone will not provide enough help.
Pull the codes from the computer, match the code to the troubleshooting procedure, follow the procedure to find the source. Repair the source, light will go out if that was the only problem. There are "monitors" or self tests the computer runs the car through a drive cycle, if a problem occurs, it may not run all of the self tests until that problem is taken care. Therefore, another problem may exist. It is emission related. OR hook up a scanner that is capable of clearing codes, and hope that none are still active.
Check that the Oxygen sensors are correctly installed and working. Also check with your ford dealership to see if your car is one of many that needs a new FUEL pump. Ford has a TSB on this and will replace it for free... I have a 2003 Focus SVT with all the same problems.
could be a PCV Valve. My 01' Ford Escort with similar engine needed that recently. Appox 5 dollars easy fix.
My 2000 Focus wagon had the exact same problem and I could hear vacuum sucking in the engine compartment. In the end it was two failures at once: 1) the PCV hose failure like everyone else, and 2) a broken white plastic vacuum cap on the intake manifold.
Some folks have luck simply replacing the odd-sized PCV hose with the Ford replacement, but I was not so lucky. In my case both ends of the PCV line (under the intake manifold and connected to the PCV valve) were bust. So, to replace the entire assembly I did the following:
I bought a "PCV elbow" (by Help! auto parts), hose clamps, 3 feet of 7/16" fuel line, and a replacement PCV valve all from Pep Boys. I bought a 1/2" brass hose connector from Lowe's. I connected the elbow to the fuel line with the brass connector and secured the PCV valve in the other end of the fuel line with a hose clamp. I removed the old hoses and PCV valve and replaced them with the new rig. I had to route the new hose around the engine block, but there was plenty of room.
I still had vacuum leaking and a really rough idle after replacing the PCV line. I found the source of the leak by using a length of hose as a stethoscope. It was a rotten, white plastic cap on the intake manifold. I bought a set of rubber vacuum plugs (by Help! auto parts) from Pep Boys and one was a perfect fit.
After both of these fixes the idle was back to where it was a couple of years ago. Good luck!
the vaccume hose is broken and is over heating you need to replace it for only $500:if nothing has helped so far, check your egr valve as it probably just needs a good cleanin'. egr stands for exhaust gas recirculation and is usually located between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. it gives metered, pre-heated air from the exhaust to the carburetor and generally has carbon deposits on it. it sounds like yours has an abundance of carbon in the passage causing the car to die when your approaching a stop sign or something.
This is not the complete answer but at least helps you to disassemble the the dash, where the radio is located. check this link: http://www.metraonline.com/downloads/pdf/TurboKits/INST99-7504.pdf they sell covers to install a standard 1 DIN radio instead of the integrated one coming from factory. Cheers C
On the firewall. Located in the center of the firewall (in the engine compartment)is a black plastic box. Unscrew it and you will find the fan as well as other relays.
Do not attempt to remove the housing. Attack from the underside.
Turn the wheel so that it points out. Pull back the thin black covering in the wheelwell part way. This is done by starting at the front of the car and part way up the wheelwell. You will need to remove two screws and one black snap button. (If the button breaks, you can get them at the dealership for pennies.) You should now have access to the bulb socket.
Entire process should take approximately 10 minutes.
my best guess without actually looking at it would be the ignition coil. sometimes as they get warm the coil can "go open" making it harder to start. try this to see, when the engine is overnight cold, locate the ignition coil by following the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap to the ignition coil. take a hair dryer and blow it on the coil until it is warm to hot to the touch(a heat gun works better and much faster) try to start the car. if you have the same problem as when the engine is hot, you've just identified the problem. a bad coil. the procedure is the same if there is no distributor cap except that there are 2 coils on the drivers side of the cylinder head instead of just one. try the same test just do them one at a time to see which is the problem.
YOUR WASTING PEPPER. It won't work. Replace the radiator.
Look at the wiper near the shaft end. You will see a separation in the plastic. Squeeze the sides outward and remove the short plastic piece to expose the nut holding the wiper arm to the shaft. Remove the nut and install new wiper. What does the manual say? "Reverse the process to install. Good Luck.
Look in the area of the left rear of the valve cover or chase the brake booster line.
Trouble code P0174 means:System too lean (Bank 2)
In the fuse box under the bonnet. For some reason it's labelled 'Fuel Heater'!
It is easy... Just press and hold the odometer button on the dash and then turn the key to the on position and watch the dashes in the odometer display slowly disappear. Then release the button and you are good to go!
The above answer didn't work on my 2010 Toyota Sienna and neither did the instructions on page 442 of the owner's manual that came with my 2010 Toyota Sienna. This is what did work: Start car and bring up odometer display on left of wheel (not Trip A or Trip B). Turn car off. Hold down odometer button. Turn key to on position without starting car. Wait for maintenance light to blink and go out. Release odometer button and turn key to off position.
Dealer changed oil and always forgets to reset the "maintenance required" light.
ive run into this a few times every time it turned out to be the crank sensor. usually coolant drips on it from a leaky water pump and ruins it.
Need more info to help. - Ravman
I just did this on my '99 RAV4. Very simple. With the hood open, you'll see a large black plastic "box" on the mid-right hand side. There are two metal clips on the right hand side of it holding the lid closed. Pop them open and lift the top which bends back to the left. You'll have to use a little force and manouver since there is a hose attached on the left but it bends. Pull the old filter out, slip in the new one. Top down, clips back on. Done. Just be sure that you haven't dislodged the cap on something right in front of the air filter box. Not sure what it is - for coolant? It's a small cap I noticed popped off when I pulled the air filter lid back. Just put it back on if it comes off. Maybe mine wasn't securely tightened to begin with.
A car's NCAP safety rating is it's overall safety for adult occupants, child occupants, and pedestrians This is the European system of testing cars for their safety. The Toyota Rav4 has a NCAP safety rating of 32 for adults. It is 29 for child occupants. And lastly, it is 21 for pedestrians.
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