When the PCV valve is not working correctly it will suck the oil from the engine into the intake manifold and burn it. All fluids should be checked daily this way if fluid is low and no obvious leaks you can get it looked at before loosing an engineAnswerCars are allowed to burn oil. I wouldn't be concerned at all if my fleet vehicles were burning a quart every week. If you just checked the oil dipstick and its dry, it could be only one quart low, not bone dry. If you love your car you will check its oil every week, AT LEAST. It could be a leak. Check the oil pan drain plug for proper torque. You may want to check for sludge near the top of the oil pan under the car- then you will need to change out the oil pan gasket, and re torque the oil pan bolts. Then theres the oil seal in the side of the engine- that should be completely clean. If your changing the oil- you would want to see that the oil filter is intact and the oil filter gasket was present. Filters can break open easily on the highway if you get a rock or shrapnel under the chassis. New engines will burn oil because of newly honed cyliders/ bored holes. The used oil will have some more metals in there, but that's good when its new because your cyls have to break themselves in. New stuff just has to wear itself in to become a lubricated machine. AnswerSince this is a new car under warranty, you need to take that question up with the dealership. They're going to look at the number of miles you've driven, as well as check a number of things on the vehicle. For example, they'll look for leaks, look for engine oil in the engine coolant (radiator), and hook up the diagostic computer to check for any telltale error codes that may be set. If the oil usage is normal, they'll tell you, and if there's a problem, it's their job to fix it.
Haha you are screwed! Brand new car and you didn't check the oil?
If you think about it, why would you even tow anything in a sedan, they are not even meant for that so obviously it is a low number
Political types. Ambassadors, Foreign Ministers and such.
Would I be politically correct in saying that they are politically
It sounds like the flapper valve is leaking slightly, enough to slowly reduce water level then fill valve fills it again - and again - and again - Save yourself a lot of grief, fling away the old fashioned floatball valve, go get a Fluidmaster A400 fill valve and new flapper , -about $20 for all parts and you can fix in less than an hour. - Is it really worth fooling around ?
With the hood open, simply pull the weatherstrip from the front of the cowl, and then remove the entire plastic cowl cover. You will see it on the upper left side.
tdiclub.com says: If the tank was mostly filled with diesel, and the gasoline is a smaller proportion so that the engine still runs, the best remedy appears to be to buy a container of injector lubricant additive and cetane boost additive, and "overdose" it to protect the injection pump. Fill the tank completely with diesel to dilute the gasoline as much as possible, and keep driving. In the interest of protecting the engine, it would be prudent to avoid high engine speeds or high engine loads until the gasoline is sufficiently diluted.
If the tank has more gasoline than diesel fuel in it, the engine won't run on that mixture. It will be necessary to drain the tank and re-fill it with diesel. If the car was driven to the point of stalling, it will also be necessary to drain the injection pump housing and replace the fuel filter, and re-prime both of these with diesel fuel.
Diesel is a lubricant, and the high pressure pumps used in most common rail diesel injection (CDI) engines - especially from Europe - rely on this for lubrication. Simply turning the ignition on could wash enough gasoline / petrol into the pump to destroy it - starting the engine could result in pieces of metal from the damaged pump reaching / blocking the injectors. Expect thousands of dollars in repair bills to replace the entire fuel / injection system.
If you've filled up with petrol / gasoline - DON'T turn on the ignition, DON'T start the engine - call your breakdown company and they'll arrange to have your tank drained. Inconvenient, but MUCH cheaper.
If you review the warning stories about putting petrol in diesel tanks, you will notice just a handful of reports distributed over many more websites. Everyone seems to have forgotten than petrol & diesel are products of the same distillation, but Diesel being about 10% denser than petrol. Take out the factors from supplier fuel additives which may or may not lubricate your diesel fuel pump. Engine oil or similar can be added to petrol to make diesel so with a full tank of 48 litres of petrol I needed to add 5 litres engine oil but opted for 8 litres as I didn't know the exact density of SAE10-30 engine oil. I had a HDI 2.0 common rail diesel engine with a full tank of petrol that ran like the fuel pump had died, clanking like a bat out of hell but after adding the engine oil it ran as normal & the garage couldn't even agree that I had put petrol in as there was nothing wrong.
I've read that petrol can dissolve the hardened metal of a a diesel fuel pump (Telegraph October 2011 - A Costly Mistake) but I don't think petrol can dissolve any metal and if it could diesel would likely too.
This is all conspiracy hogwash backed up by a dumbing down education system that wants to sell you old technology, because a lack of new technology is a backwash of a dumbing down education system.
If you put diesel in your petrol car well that's harder to resolve, because there isn't an easily accessible supply of kerosene... http://poachedtraders.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=149:wrong-car-fuel&catid=34:vehicle-related&Itemid=45
How did I put petrol in my diesel car? Shell have recentyl re-branded their V Power Petrol & Diesel with the same red/black colours and were selling petrol in a black hose labelled just "V Power" next to a "V Power Petrol" hose. I would have to presume that Shell are now in the drain vehicle fuel business.
STOP DRIVING DUMP THE ENTIRE CONTENTS OF THE FUEL TANK REFIL WITH DIESEL PURGE THE FUEL LINES REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER
PRAY IT'S OK
If you've done this and still have problems, the petrol has attacked various seals in probbaly the injector pump and or injectors. Could now get expensive. (Note that in cold countries, a 10% petrol addition is allowed to prevent waxing, so you may have got away with it?)
You put anti freeze in your car for 2 reasons. 1 Reason is to keep your engine operating temperature at the specifide level and keep the engine from over heating. The other Reason is to protect your engine block from craking in extreme cold. When liquid freezes it expands and could potentialy crack a weak engine block. Anti freeze does not become solid till around -50F. Also, anti freezes contain additives which reduce corrosionwithin the engine and the rest of the cooling system.
oil pressure is created by the oil pump, which is driven mechanically as the engine turns, and the faster it revs the harder it pumps. It should deliver enough pressure at idle for the light to stay off. Your problem is either a worn oil pump or your oil is too thin and needs changing. If you have an old engine, put in a heavier oil. Penrite 50 is good. Hi another possibility is your idle is set too low Also, you could have a bad or weak pressure release valve in your oil pump. (AKA bypass valve). In addition, if the oil has not been changed in a long time the oil filter may be filled with sludge reducing the pressure. Changing the oil and filter first to heavier oil is a good first step.
Your engine bearings may be worn and letting too much oil escape, resulting in low pressure when the oil pump is running slower (when the engine is running at idle). Revving the engine too high can cause damage to the rod bearings and allow oil to escape too easily. If your engine has a lot of miles on it, or if it has been run without changing the oil regularly, your engine will have a lot of wear. The oil pump, main bearings, rod bearings, and camshaft bearings may all have a lot of wear on them allowing the oil to easily escape without allowing pressure to build up. Rebuilding your engine may be needed. But try changing the oil pump first.
Before filling your tank with biodiesel, vegetable oil, or any other biofuel, it is essential to find out whether your car is compatible. Mistakes can be very expensive to rectify - at best your car won't run, at worst you could destroy your engine!
The first thing to consider is the fuel your car currently uses. If you car runs on petrol then you do not need to read any further. Biodiesel is not a suitable fuel for spark ignition engines and considerable damage is likely to occur if you attempt to run your car on biodiesel.
The green alternative to petrol is Ethanol usually mixed with standard fossil fuel petroleum. Find out more by clicking the Ethanol link above.Biodiesel and Vegetable OilThe term biodiesel if often used with reference to true biodiesel, straight vegetable oil SVO (unused rape seed or corn oil usually), and waste vegetable oil WVO (used vegetable oil from restaurants etc). Diesel Engines (compression ignition engines) can nearly all be run on biodiesel without modification. If you plan to use straight vegetable oil, some modification is usually necessary (Mercedes and Volvo vehicles aside), and if you plan to use waste vegetable oil modification is always necessary and you will need to process your fuel before use. BiodieselBiodiesel is a stronger solvent than standard mineral diesel and so all the accumulated gunge in the tank and pipes from years of driving dissolves into the new fuel. When the biodiesel is pumped through to the fuel filter these particles are deposited potentially blocking the filter. Shortly after starting to use biodiesel it is usually necessary to replace the fuel filter at least once. After that the pipes and tank are clean and fuel filters will only need replacing at standard service intervals and you will have a much cleaner car.
Biodiesel's solvent powers also make it hard on any old style rubber piping. All rubber piping and other rubber parts in contact with fuel should be immediately replaced with modern hard-wearing long life nylon pipes to prevent problems. Most modern cars no longer have true rubber parts and so this may not be an issue.
Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation.
Ok, there is a one bolt that holds in the disributor. it will be conected to a crows foot looking clamp. Take the bolt out and on Fords it more of a pain then just Chevy's. Chevy's just twist out while pulling. Fords are the same . but to put it back in you have to bump the motor until it falls in. Kind of a pain to set timming. But usually you hold it where the #1 spark plug is and it will fall into place. It's a two man operation. To make it super simple.
DON'T TRY TO START IT. have the tank drained and reinstall gas. If just a couple of gallons were put in, don't worry about it. It will run with a little diesel fuel in the gas but may smoke a bit. First, drain the fuel tank. Remove all diesel fuel from the tank before attempting to start the engine again. Next, determine if the vehicle has a recirculating fuel system. Many of the injected engines have a pressurized fuel system that recirculates back to the tank. If that is the case with your vehicle, fill the tank with the preferred fuel, turn the ignition switch on for five seconds, turn it off again, and repeat the process a few times to circulate diesel fuel out of the line. A small amount of diesel fuel that mixes with your conventional fuel will not harm the engine. If the engine will not start you may need to use a small amount of ether based starting fluid to get the remaining diesel fuel out of the injectors. Once the vehicle starts again it should run properly after you have worked the residual concentrated diesel fuel out of the line. If you determine that your vehicle does not have a recirculating fuel system, open the fuel line near the injectors, place a flexible tube of some kind over the fuel line and drain enough fuel to allow all of the diesel fuel to be removed. Get as much of the concentrated diesel fuel out of the line as you possibly can before attempting to start the engine. Short bursts of starting fluid should keep the engine running while you burn out any remaining diesel fuel.
You need to get 2 fine blades one either side of the forward reverse buttons and push them in and radio should slide out !!
Try this link
I know that this is more than you asked for but it tells you everything that you would want to know about your autotrans. Note that you need to be able to run the engine with the vehicle raised off the ground and this is dangerous, so think how you can accomplish this safely before you crawl underneath.
Stay safe, be careful doing this service.
remove the front bumper lights and slam panel
remove all the hoses, connectors, cv joints, exhaust, power steering pipe, fuel pipes
undew the 3 engine mounts and drag it out the front with the gearbox
Check out this site: www.elitedubs.com/modules.php?name= Forums&file=viewtopic&p=424 There are clear, detailed photos and step-by-step instructions. Car is a 2001 model, but I'm sure it's similar if not identical for 2002. Good luck! The above link didn't take me to the actual document. I found this link. It is probably the same document, but I am not sure. http://home.comcast.net/~slashpub/headlights/ReplacingHeadlightBulbs.pdf
It's quite straight forward but it's in a tight space (need small hands).
To remove exisitng belt:
If this is a anti-lock equiped car then feeling some pulsing is normal especially on hard breaking. If not then I would say it could be several things. One is that it might take a few miles for the pads to really wear down and conform to the surface of the disc rotor. Another thing is that there might be a little dirt, water, or something that got in the brake line. This will cause the hydraulic brake line to not be able to hold the pressure of applied braking and could cause "pulsing". Third reason would be that the rotor is bad. Did they give you new rotors or jst machine them down. I always replace the rotors with new ones and new break pads. It has always solved that problem for me. Another thing to try is bleeding the entire brake system of the fluid and replace it. Debris and water will destroy this system from the inside out after time. Good luck and I hope you fix it.
yes the serpentine belt will be hot after running engine
There are seals to be replaced but you have to know what you are doing.
Normally there is a repair kit available. You should go to the parts shop and ask for the repair kit.
What is your definition of "need"??? ...need synthetic to run? no. ...need sythetic for the engine to last 60k miles? no. If you want it to run well (cooler, better mpg, slightly better performance) and last a long time (200k miles +) synthetic is the best choice. easy math - $65 * 2 per year = $130 or reg oil $20 * 5 = $100 its not much more since you can run sythetic for 15-30k mile intervals. Tim I run full synthetic front to back in three of my cars. After several years of using it and telling people about it I now sell it. No, you don't have to buy some from me and I don't care if you use synthetic or not, but your car will last longer and run better.
Yes, absolutely. VW recently updated their oil requirements due to recent 'oil sludge' issues that have been claiming many 1.8t motors at their expense. They have extended the powertrain warranty to cover these as well as both increased the size of the oil filter (in an attempt to increase oil volume) and switched to synthetic.
Use synthetic oil and switch to a 4k change interval using only the factor MANN filters... no K&N, Purolator, Fram or other junk.
Synthetic oil breaks down at a much higher temperature than mineral/petroleum based oils. Say your synthetic (dependant upon brand) breaks down at 450 degrees F, your favorite mineral/petroleum based oil probably degrade around 275 degrees F. Synthetics tend to adhere and stay on surfaces whereas regular oil runs off and pools at the low point. Synthetics also protects better against corrosion and protects an over-heated engine. Every turbine engine in the worlds runs using synthetic oil because it can withstand the high operating temperatures. Now consider how hot an exhaust driven turbo-charger gets. The bearings are the weak point. Considering the replacement cost of turbo-chargers, I'll keep using synthetic in my car! My personal choice is AMSOIL. After the car is off warranty, you only need to change the oil every 25,000 miles using AMSOIL.
Yes, you should use the synthetic oil, for the sludge issues mentioned above. But you don't have to pay dealer prices for the synthetic oil. You can bring your own synthetic oil to the dealership; then they should charge you only for the labor. I bring 5 quarts because the Passat seems to require a bit more than 4.
Two other caveats: 1) Get a full synthetic, not a blend. 2) Check with your owner's manual or dealer to determine the correct viscosity rating of oil, for example 5W-30.
As a personal owner of a 2002 VW Passat 1.8T, you should definitely use synthetic oil. The way the 1.8T engine was designed allows it to reach higher temperatures than regular oil can handle. This does lead to engine sludge. I had to spend $1500 to replace the oil pump at 45K miles. Had I waited even longer, the whole engine would have been destroyed. The synthetic oil is more expensive, but on the Passat, is a must.
Yes. The 1.8T Passat (and Audi A4 models with the same longitudinally-mounted engine) only hold 3.7 quarts of oil. This is less than the transverse mounted 1.8T in the Jetta, Golf/GTI and Audi TT models. The high temperatures caused by the turbocharger will break down a motor oil prematurely, and the smaller quantity in the Passat and A4 has resulted in sludge buildup and catastrophic internal failures. Use only approved oils, do not exceed the manufacturer's change interval, and make it a point to give the turbo a minute or two of cool-down time after spirited or highway driving, which will prevent the oil from "cooking" in the turbocharger's bearings.
I too own a 1.8t Passat, I have used nothing but synthetic since the day I bought the car, it now has 190k and still runs fine... not too many ge to last that long because of the sludge problem, the other must is to run the big bertha oil filter.
A few years back I WAS once the proud owner of a 2000 Passat wagon. The previous owner never used synthetic oil and my Passat was a sludge pot. The engine was ruined. I sold it at a loss a few months later to only recieve a letter from VW offering to replace my engine. My brother-in-law has been a VW tech for over 20 years and owns a Passat wagon with the same engine. while he says you can cheap out on the gas you use, regular instead of premium, you CAN NOT use cheap oil.
yes only if you know how to take good care of it and not treat it like a beater
Under the dash on the driver's side above and behind the parking brake lever, on the firewall
Your rear or front oil seals need to be changed. check and see if it is leaking at the front or between the engine and the transmision. mr houston Does your engine have a yellow/orange dipstick guide/funnel? This guide tube fits onto the metal dipstick tube leading into the sump (and is meant to stay attached to the metal tube). However the plastic guide tube is a tighter fit onto the dipstick than onto the engine. As a result the lower end of the guide tube becomes damaged and oil can seep from this point. This a very poorly designed and manufactured part. I have never had to replace a dipstick before on any car which I have owned. Another potential location for oil to leak from is the oil cooler. This heat exchanger is mounted coaxially with the oil filter. If the oil filter is over tightened the seal between the oil cooler (rubber compression ring) and the engine block can be split. This is not, imho, a particularly sensible design. My comment refers to 4 cylinder engines, I don't know if a similar arrangement exists on the V6 version. On V6's there's a major problem which might require tearing apart the engine . . not the head gasket but it would seem like it's coming from there... search the internet cause I dealt w/ that issue a couple years ago ... Before overlooking the obvious, check the drain plug. If the threads are not cleaned on the plug and the pan, it can leak. What a fine product!
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