VW Transporter

Finding an old car You need at least a license plate # to attempt to locate the vehicle and its current owner but you will also need to know the state in which it is titled. More input from Wiki s Contributors: I just went through trying to use an old license plate, and believe me it doesn't work very well. I am working through some of the local insurance companies to see if they have a record of the car I am looking for.

Ac current. Ac current is easily controlled for voltage and frequency. The diesel engine runs a generator that generates AC current for use in the electric drive motors on each drive wheel.

a set of extremely elusive plans designed to help in the building of a pullout bed/rear seat in a vw camper. Loads of makers around making them cheap enough crash tests and seat belt anchorages are what you need to worry about if making your own, ensuring they mount to original seat mounts ONLY Good info on all sorts of VWT4 issues only at www.t4club.co.UK fun free friendly all models all years welcomed

T5 Transporter clutch fluid is contained within the break fluid reservoir.

The maximum capacity is 2.5 liters and the minimum is 1.9 liters (depending on the size of the engine for the VW Transporter van.

On VW aircooled engines (used in the old beetles) it is as follows. Standing at the back of the vehicle, looking at the engine the cylinder on the left closest to you is #4, the one behind it (nearer to the front of the car) is #3. On the right side the one closest to you is #2, the one further away is #1 so: (front of car) 3 ---- 1 4 ---- 2 (rear of car) Firing order is 1-4-3-2 just up dated this asit was wrong

Alternator is accessible from under the vehicle, a/c compressor needs to be loosened to get to it.

Hello, Paint codes on the 1992 buick cars are usually found under the spare tire cover. Good luck

i take it were talking Renault here if so definitely not bent at best bent valves or worse could of done the piston in if you buy a french car eg Peugeot 1.8 2.0 etc same on a Renault 1.8 2.0 etc if people say tapets are noisey don't touch with a barge pole as this is a common sign of a cam belt that has snapped and hasn't been repaired properly and the most expensive and common fault on scenics is the gearboxs £2000 by Renault

depending on if you have a trunk or hatch model this can vary a little bit. when you pop the hatch there will be a little cap over a screw on the top of the taillight that can be taken off.Unscrew the screw underneath.the furthest out lense of the taillight (usually red) will have to be pop'd off also, put a flathead screw driver in between the lense and the rest of the taillight lense. pry it but becareful, this tends to break easily.there should be 2 screws there that need to be taken out, after they are out, apply a little pressure to the taillight to pop it out of the brackets that are holding it in.hope that helps.

with the ign key in the ign in the off position , press on hold the trip reset button till it goes to zero . Then turn the ign on , then release the trip reset button . The service light should flash . Then press the minute adjuster button and the service light should be reset

It would depend on which defrost system is not working, the rearview mirrors, back window or front window.

I would imagine if the fenders,hood are interchangable the 70 bezels and grill could fit. I'm curious why you would want to use 70 bezels instead of the 73? The 70 are very expensive and hard to find ( I've been looking for a pair myself) 1970 headlight bezels won't work if you are still going to use the 72-74 grill. If you replace the whole grill assembly, any year will fit, wiht the proper bracketry. 1970 bezels are being reproduced now, but grills aren't, and they are considerably more expensive than 72-74.

olds cutlass calias bolt removal. you must remove the air box, the radiator cooling fan and anything else that is in your way from accessing the alternator from the top, front of the car. a longer extension on a 3/8 drive ratchet and the proper size socket,13mm or 15mm should remove this bolt.

The hook portion or the latch is probably flipped up. If you lift the exterior handle up and take a pen or reasonable facsimile, you can flip it back. Post your results. Should someone "accidently" push down the latch, which freezes, the door won't latch or close. Pulling the outside door handle and using the pen or straight tool at the same time will release all latches!! If the latch is flipped down, as it was on my 2000 Pontiac Firebird, then simply lifting the inner or outer latch handle may not work. My car has power door locks and I could not get the latch to release no matter how many times I cycled the lock/unlock switch. I found that I had to unlock the door with the key first, then lifting the handle worked! I don't know how the latch got "thrown" initially, but I found the seatbelt buckle stuck in the doorjamb, and I had locked the car using the keychain fob. My point is this: It will help to try and figure out what was occurring when the problem might have happened. , and Good Luck!

On mine it was under the hood on the driver side above the wheel.

Stop eating three meals a day. Instead, eat 4 or 5 smaller meals and you will maintain a better blood sugar zone. Including items like fruits and vegetables will also help you to be where you want to be.

Cows sleep lying with their front feet folded under and their back legs tucked under them, but so that either the left or right hip is resting on the ground (which ever side they prefer to lay on). They will either sleep with their head on the ground pointing towards their rear, or stretch out on their sides and sleep with their feet splayed out. Cows doze on their feet as they are chewing their cud, but they never sleep on their feet as their legs cannot lock like horses' do; plus their legs take a lot of weight, which makes it a very good excuse to lay down to rest for a while.

dunno bout ars but vw's asr button is the anti slip regulation (traction control)

The oil drain plug on the sump is to the rear of the sump on the side 17mm spanner or socket required to remove Drain plug

if the engine is an izuzu then the crankshaft pully must be aligned to tdc mark the injection pump and camshaft must be locked by screwing a bolt through a hole in the pully and into the backplate a 10/11mm and a 13mm bolt will be required. the crank pully may have to be fitted to find the tdc mark. I have watched this being done. I would answer the question "With Difficulty, even if you know what you are doing!"

A Volkswagen bus doesn't have a VIN. It has a Chassis Number and an Engine Number. It's in three places: 1. There is a plate in the bottom of the windshield on the driver's side. 2. There is a data plate somewhere in the car--on a Type 2 VW it's usually on the little wall behind the driver's seat. 3. It will also be stamped into the engine compartment sheet metal. Open the back engine compartment door and it's right there. The Chassis Number looks like this: 225 1415225 The first digit is the Vehicle Type: 1 is a Bug, 2 is a Bus, 3 is a Type 3 (Notchbacks, Fastbacks and some Karmann Ghias) and 4 is a Type 4 (Squarebacks). The second digit is the Model. On most Buses shipped to the US, this is going to be a 2, which is a Micro Bus. You might find a 1, which is a Delivery Van--one with no side windows. In Europe where this was a commercial vehicle there are 8 different choices. IIRC there were about 30 variants of the Bus body, including things like ambulances, pickup trucks, fire engines and catering trucks. The third digit is the model year--if you have a Micro Bus made in the 1974 model year, its first three will be 224. The rest of the numbers are a one-up serial for that year. The Engine Number is stamped into the engine case so that you can see it with the engine installed. The reason there's a chassis number in the engine compartment is so the license plate people can check both numbers at the same time.

I just replaced mine. The process is pretty straight forward. Obviously, step one is to disconnect your battery. I wasn't sure if the alternator would come up through the top for removal, so I opted to remove the splash guard from the bottom front of the engine. I then jacked the car up and it gave me great access to some of the work from underneath. The alternator was easily removed through the bottom. There are two electrical connections at the alternator. One bolts on from the battery, and one is a plugin connection that requires you to push the tab in before pulling the connector off. You can decide for yourself whether you want to do this while the alternator is bolted up or whether you want to loosen the alternator to have better access to these connections. I personally took the top bolt out and loosened the bottom bolt before removing the electrical connections. NOTE: my new alternator (rebuilt technically) came with an insulating block that did not work with the battery cable connection, so you will want to check this before returning your core in case you need to take the insulating block off your old alternator. The alternator is held on by two bolts. The top bolt is part of the tensioner, which uses, thankfully, an old style bolt system to tension a separate alternator belt. Once you remove the top bolt the tensioner can be removed by sliding it towards the rear of the car through the slot it sits in. The bottom bolt has fallen prey to what I consider an engineering oversite. The bolt threads out towards the back of the engine, and because of this, you have to remove the stiffening arm that sits right behind this bolt. Fortunately, the stiffening arm is held on by three bolts, all of which are easy to get to. Once this arm is out of the way you can remove the bottom bolt. Reassemble in the reverse order, connect your battery, reprogram your radio, etc. Your fault codes are going to be cleared, so if you needed this information for any reason, get it read before disconnecting your battery.

there is know real level of fill.depending on if its a manual or auto,the manual u will know its full when it over flows where as an auto u just put 500ml in to start then top up if it needs it The correct level is just above the gear and below the ridge above it if it is a manual. You have to remove the speedo cable and drive and the gear si on the part you remove.