To remove disconnect the negative battery cable, remove the cover from the headlamps and radiator shroud.
Disconnect the left engine torque strut from the radiator support then disconnect the upper trans oil cooler line from the transmission cooler.Next remove the right and left cooling fan. After that is done remove the serpentine belt from the alternator. Next remove the bolt from the front top of the alt. and the bolt from the locovered in this guider front of the alt. And detach the harness connector and putput cable from the alt.
Just so you know the bolt nearest the exhaust manifold can't be removed from the bracket but can be backed out to allow it to be taken out.
You'll have to remove the a/c splash shield from the cradle and the access panel from the bottom side of the radiator and disconnect the engine harness from its cradle. You can move the alt away from the engine and pull it out from the bottom side of the engine
if you need help putting it back in then post and if i see it I'll help
In general, the reason fuses blow is there is a higher-than-acceptable amperage draw through that circuit. One way to get that effect is to try to run too many things on that circuit (such as plugging too many things into one electrical outlet in your home). Another way to draw more amperage is to have a short in the circuit, which effectively lowers the resistance level of that circuit. The voltage stays the same, so as the resistance goes to zero, the current goes to infinity, blowing the fuse.
SO, I'd suggest you check for too large a draw, such as you woudl have if your circuit has more stuff on it than it's supposed to have, OR check for a short -- usually the result of a loose wire bridging to ground, or a light fixture with a piece of metal causing a short.
16 gallon tank you do the math
Volkswagen vans were first introduced in Holland during the 1940's. It was later brought over to the United States in the 1960's and became a huge success there.
Just put unleaded regular in it. VW had seen the writing on the wall when catalytic converters first came out and changed to valve seats suitable for unleaded fuel. No "lead substitute" is necessary.
Under a cover, under the glove box. Plug in component, easy replacement.
Get a Haynes Manual, A Chilton Manual. You can get them at Autozone, Advance Auto, or Napa. They Run under $20. And they are very helpful.
Most alternators have the following connections: - drive belt from the engine - pivot bolt on the bottom - tensioning bolt(s) on the top - electrical connections Disconnect the battery Remove the drive belt from the pulley on the front of the alternator Loosen the top bolts but do not remove Disconnect the electrical connections to the alternator Disconnect the pivot bolt and slide it out Remove the top bolts and work the alternator loose from the bushings on the bottom Remove alternator from the car The replacement alternator will usually not have a pulley on it, so remove it from the old and install it on the new (impact wrench) The new alternator may not be clocked the same as the old. Take it back to the store and have them clock it to match the old one The only difficulty going back in is the bushings on the bottom may not be far enough apart to permit insertion of the new alternator bottom bracket. I used a C-clamp and a short section of pipe (about 1") to retract the bushing far enough to get it to go in. A socket wrench socket could also be used to press out the bushing just far enough to get the bracket to slide in. This all takes about 1-2 hours if you have the right tools and longer if not.
From 1972 to 1979 the VW micro bus uses a type IV "Pancake" version of the air cooled flat four motor. Pre 1972 VW buses use the upright air cooled motor identical to the versions used in the VW Beetle's of the era. VW then experimented with a water cooled version of the flat four engine(Wasserboxer), this lasted a few short years and VW moved all vehicles to their water cooled inline and similar standard engines.