You have a problem in one of two places most likely. The switches contacts get worn most often on the driver side and the switch may need replaced or the motor in the door may need replaced. You would have to pull the door panel off and sometimes these motors are difficult to get out. They usually run 40 to 50 dollars at auto zone. If none of these is the problem try a hammer to the window (just kidding).
the wire harness between the doors/chassis always brakes or craks from opening/closing the doors
I found this link with p/n's and pictures along with instructions that appear to be generic to all types of vehicles.
I've had this problem on a couple of old cars. Believe it or not, my boyfriend simply poured rubbing alcohol on the switch (the one that makes the window go up and down) and the windows worked again. He said it cleaned out the "schmutz." whatever, it worked - and it's a cheap thing to try! No need to remove panels or anything else. You can pry up the switch first and hold it away from the door while pouring if you don't want to spoil the leather or fabric.
On most ford or mercury models if you don't use the window often it will stop working. so all you have to do is guess about were you think the window motor is located and hit the door fairly hard with your hand and it should start working. I used to work at a body shop and I saved probably 100 people money with that little trick.
Hate to say it, but the most likely cause us a worn motor. It will kick the breaker off repeatedly. Remedy is not for the failt of heart, but entirely within the perview of weekend mechanics. Replace the drive motor (and regulator, probably). Get lotsa beer and some sympathetic help.
Its probably your window motor. Too hard for the average person to replace- see a mechanic!
I found mine ('90 626) started shuddering. Obviously a lube problem, my mechanic suggested Graphite Powder. Didn't work. Mechanical Oil worked for less than a week.
what worked was....
Brilliant. Slides like a dream for months!
I don't see this response: I spent a few hours learning the hard way that there is, on some cars, a children's window lock switch in the drivers compartment that cuts off power to the rear windows. You don't say which window don't function or if it will roll up. So - if it is off - you can't roll the back windows. RE: 1988 Ford WAgon
If you look around the edge of the headlight you will see 4 Phillips head screws. Unscrew.
The only thing that matters here is that if you check it when warm, make sure to a wait a few minutes for the oil in the top of the engine to drain back to the pan. Checking it before starting it in the morning will give you the most accurate reading.
The heater core is cracked. You may also be smelling a sweet sort of smell when you turn on the heat and the car is running hot. That sweet smell comes from the anitfreeze when it burns.
I have a 1998 ford Expedition and I smell antifreeze inside the truck. also antifreeze leaking around the passenger side of motor outside..... I can see a mist coming out of the ac vents.... could it be bad heater core and is it easy to fix or do you have step by step removal/installation instructions? please help
Your heater core is probably cracked. There is alot of work to get to the core. You have to remove the front dash board.
Your welcome.Off the top of my head, I would guess at a water pump from experience. Although, I would strongly recommend finding the real leak. Anyways here's a list of possibilities:water pump, head gasket, intake manifold, heater hose, radiator hose, bypass hose, radiator, heater core (usually leaks in passenger compartment floor), thermostat housing.As you sit in the driver's seat, where would you say that you see it? Center, right or left front of engine compartment? front middle or rear of engine compartment? How much and how often is leaking? Does it run rough? does it overheat?
Sorry I didn't re-read the initial question.Also add cap, reservior bottle and overflow to that list.One thought: A well known company can still hire a poor quality technician unintentionally and may have not pressure tested correctly or was not aggressive enough to find. There is a shortage of good technicians. if the system was low and pressure tested it may not have turned up. He should have pressure tested the cap to make sure it was good.Another thought: Assume the tech was good, Heat can affect a leak sometimes. I have seen it with waterpumps and head gasket leaks in particular. When it is cold the surfaces contract and seal a leak, when hot they expand and allow a leak-or vica versa.Another thought: Add dye to the system-make sure it is for coolant not oil. Any decent parts store should have this.
Dan,I would add the dye. Based on the location and other normal conditions present, it further leads toward the water pump.However, if it is in the corner right there is a possible seam leak on the radiator. I have seen both of these leak intermittantly.The Dye will help isolate it. Post what you find, thanks,Paul
Dan, I hate to beat a dead horse, but did you put dye in it yet?I had a 2000 Chevy Malibu that wouldn't leak until it was driven about 40 miles. If it wasn't for the dye, I don't know if I would have ever found it.If you can't find the dye, I'll find where you can.
Don't necessarily knock the other companies. It took me a painful 200 miles worth of test driving,6 cans of cleaner, at least 3 hours of labor of dissassembling and reassembling, 3 gallons of dexcool and countless shop rags to find this particular leak. Not to mention that it became a heated issue between the tech working on it and myself. He kept telling me it was a hose and I wasn't buying it. Oh yeah, we did this at no charge as well. She just put $600.00 into fixing the leak because we diagnosed it as a intake manifold leak. Granted she did have the manifold gasket leak and it did need repair, but I think the trouble one was the water pump. I also had deep sympathy for her as well since her daughter was brutally murdered less than a year ago.
If we had used the dye in the first place, we could have saved a lot of leg work, material and headaches.
Dealers have techs like any other shop. Just because they are the " Dealer", still only makes them as good as their techs, their policies, ethics and their perserverence.
Anyways, I am glad you got it resolved.
If you have a bad head gasket, cracked head, intake manifold leak, or even an exahust manifold leak you can have similar signs for all these problems. First question is does your car run hot or has it leaked or overheated recently? Even though you have a new head gasket I wouldn't rule that out. You are running your car around and since the coolant is hot it has expanded to fill the reservoir tank. When you park it at night the radiator will draw the coolant back from the coolant reservoir and empty it. On the weekend fill your reservoir and start your car and wait and watch as it is warming up. You are looking to see if the coolant is being forced out of the coolant recovery tank. This may not happen right away. If so that is a possible leak of one of the items listed above. It could also be the radiator cap so you could try that as it is probably less than $10 anyway. Get a new one with the same pressure as the old on or your car will run hotter (If less lbs). Do you have hard starting in the morning? (Possible that a cylinder has coolant in it). Pull spark plugs and see if any fluid is squirted out of cylinder. Also look at spark plugs. Are the plugs covered in a white ash or extremely wet looking? (Indicates same thing).Do you see white smoke from the exhaust with a coolant (sweet) smell? This could be intermittant. If so then you have one of the leaks listed above. You may or may not get coolant mixing with your oil depends on size and position of leak (Usually this happens when leak happens between cylinders). Look for coffee and cream color of oil. You would see this on dipstick or filler cap.Have a service guy do a block test to the coolant to see if exhaust gasses are present. (Should indicate a leak at any one of those points mentioned). They use a tube that is put in filler neck of radiator (It is filled with dye) if the dye changes color then you have exhaust gasses present.
I may not be a mechanic but I have been looking into this very problem, because I keep blowing the seams out of my new radiators.
Most likely a blown head gasket. Or if you own a GM it's probably the intake manifold gaskets. There is a class action law suit that has been settled , but getting any cash will be a chore. I have a 96 GMC and just changed them for the second time.
Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system's ability to absorb, transport, and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated mineral deposits in the water jackets or radiator, a defective thermostat that doesn't open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap.
The cooling system is a group of related parts that depend on proper function from each of its component parts to keep the engine cool. Service the cooling system and replace any under-performing or suspected weak parts. Any component part of the cooling system that is not fully doing its job will stress the others and your cooling system will overheat. The most important maintenance item is to flush and refill the coolant periodically. Coolant should be replaced every 36,000 miles or every three years. Anti-freeze has a number of additives that are designed to prevent corrosion in the cooling system, but they have a limited life span. The corrosion causes scale that eventually builds up and begins to clog the thin flat tubes in the radiator and heater core, causing the engine to eventually overheat.
-Use a flushing/cleaning solution and then drain and fill the radiator with a fresh 50/50 coolant and water mix. With a neglected cooling system you may have to flush several times.
-Inspect the radiator for mud/bugs/grass clogging the outside and mineral deposits clogging the inside. Clean or replace as needed.
-Replace the thermostat with a STANT or Robertshaw 195* thermostat. Cheap thermostats are cheap for a reason.
-Replace the radiator cap if your Jeep has one. An old worn out cap will allow boil overs and/or allow the coolant flash over into to steam. You will see the coolant temps suddenly jump from 210* to the Red Zone and back to 210* if your radiator cap is weak.
-Inspect/test or replace the mechanical fan clutch. A worn fan clutch will allow temperature creep at stoplights, in heavy traffic, and on the 4x4 trails. A fan clutch that "looks" OK is not the same as working OK.
-Inspect the electric cooling fan and the fan relay. Apply 12 volts and make sure the fan runs. Exchange the cooling fan relay with one of the others similar relays. Confirm that the e-fan starts when engine temps reach 215-218*. Repair or replace the fan or relay as needed.
-Inspect/test or replace the coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
-Replace the water pump. The pumping fins can deteriorate over time and the pump will not flow enough coolant to keep the temps under control.
-Inspect/replace the radiator hoses. Make sure the coiled wire is installed in the lower hose.
If you have covered all the points listed above and still have overheating issues, inspect the head for cracks and head gasket for leaks. Exhaust gasses entering the coolant can raise the temperature of the coolant or cause steam pockets in the coolant that will temporarily block the flow of coolant
Check to make sure that the cap is holding the proper pressure, also once the vehicle is warm make sure there is no steam coming from the tailpipe. ( headgasket ) I would have a Block test done to check for exhaust gasses in the cooling system also
a new radiator cap should fix it.small cracks in the gasket can cause fluid loss
Your radiator may be the culprit. Often the solder, braze, or plastic welding which connects the tanks, tubes, and cooling fin sections will corrode and leak through tiny holes when it is hot. Since most metals and plastics expand when hot and contract when cool, the majority of the fluid loss may occur while driving and you may never notice a large leak. Also, when the fluid is cooler the pressure is less and, hence, less leakage. A million micro leaks = one large leak.
Also check the auxiliary plastic filling tank ( if applicable ) for leaks at the seams or cap.
Test: Look for white residue (depends on coolant type)on the radiator and hose juctions and filling tank.
Fix #1: You must find any leak(s) elsewhere as well. Try an anti-freeze additive product that stops micro leaks. Even new cars have an additive from the factory just for this problem. Your local auto parts store can make a suggestion.
Fix #2: Change your hoses and make sure all the surfaces are clean and free of scratches. If the flanges are dented or gouged then smooth the area with some 400 grit abrasive paper. If the flaws are deep you can resurface it with solder or a metal filled two-part epoxy like "JB Weld" or "PC-7". Do not use the 5-minute set stuff because it easily breaks down from exposure to heat or water.
Fix #3: Replace the radiator, only at the suggestion of your mechanic.
I had a leak on my 2001 Chevy Malibu V-6 3.1L Engine that was on the inside of the V and up under everything, center of the motor. No evidence of a leak as it only occured when coolant system heated up and pressurized and then evaporated away without dripping, puddling or "visible" residue. As I had only owned older vehicles with overflow tubes I didn't realize how sealed the new coolant systems are, so adding (initially) a little fluid every month seemed like no problem. Then, after adding more fluid more often, the gasket completely failed to hold fluid, warranty had just expired too. So I paid for the repair and inspection/repair of any additional damage and I learned a lesson to do my homework on my 'newer' cars systems.
IF RELAY HAS NOT BEEN UPDATED MOST LIKELY IT IS THE DEFAULT
The relay is under the battery and you remove the old and when the new revised
or re-engineered relay new holes have to be drilled. cost 75 dollors doing it your self.
found out some dealers try to charge 125? the below is good to start off with for routine stuff to check off the list.
now with the 2003 jeeps you need to check the 40amp under hood fuse first off. Fuse box located behind battery on side of fender . you should then check the fan motor. You can use jump leads and connect to pin with blue wire and the other pin being grnd/ blk wire and use a twelve volt source If fan works fine then relay is most likely culprit . when engine warms up to I think 95 degrees fan should kick on. disregard the rest of this info .
Revised. MOST LIKELY THE RELAY IS DEFAULT AND NOT TURNING THE FAN ON
AT THE PROPER TEMP AND WILL CAUSE THE ENGINE TO OVER HEAT
On a Jeep Liberty Limited 2003, the 40 amp fuse is in the fuse box under the hood and right by the battery. The fan relay is located about half way back on the drivers side, and is LOCATED UNDER THE BATTERY, AND NOT VISABLE. THE NEW RELAY HAS BEEN REVISED OR RE-ENGINENEERED AND NEW HOLE WILL HAVE TO BE DRILLED NOT A HARD JOB MAYBE 20 MINS OR SO. The relay has been modified in recent years and has cooling pins added. Modifications to the screw/hole placements will need to be made.
check the exhaust pipe to make sure it's not clogged.It will build pressure if it is and won't start
You may have gotten moisture in the distribature cap , Pull it off and dry it out
Yes, they should. Sealing the surface on a regular basis prevents water from seeping into the material and causing damage when it freezes. It also replaces some of the oils that evaporate, helping keep the material flexible and less likely to crack.
The abs system will activate when certain perameters are met within either the vehicles pcm or abs module. The noise is the abs motor actuating your brakes. If never experienced it can be pretty unerving but is normal. there could be some "teeth" missing on the wheel sensor, which causes flat spots in the analog signal, these are the same condtions as when the wheel locks up
Need more info. Where is it leaking from? The turbo housing? The oil send or return lines?
bad fuel, water in the sytem?
It could be a variety of things.... first and easiest explaination that comes to mind is that if you seem to gain power under load.. it could just be the natural way that the turbocharger works... the higher the RPM, the more exhaust gas leaves the combustion chambers and the more intake air it will suck in... making it have more power, your power gain is exponentially increased with higher RPMs than when idling
this could also be caused by a clogged air filter.
Could be the mass airflow sensor.
There is no pressure specification for recharging. Recharging is done by weight -- i.e., the system should have X ounces of refrigerant. Typical operating pressures for most cars would be 20-30 psi on the low side, 125-300 on the high side.AnswerOn my Grand Cherokee I charge based on temperature of the two aluminum tubes going in/out of the firewall to the evaporator. Charge until these two feel the same temp. This is basically what the manual says to do.
Fuel filter is plugged or fuel line is cinked, after highway driving where fuel flow is greatest the pump cannot maintaine the flow and engine "runs out of gas" after an hour the fuel line is full again by gravity.
Run with a greater than half a tank until you get it fixed
You might have a faulty TFI (Thick Film Integrated) ignition module. Sometimes it is located on the distributor and sometimes attached to the engine compartment of the vehicle. If it is damaged and becomes overheated, the module will intermittently lose power as it heats up and then finally die on you. It takes about an hour for the module to cool down.
My guess is the fuel filter and or pump. the faster you go, the more fuel your engine requires. Thus, if the flow is restricted your engine may stall.
ITS GOT A COOLANT DRAIN PLUG ON THE BOTTOM OF THE RADIATOR HOUSING
You probably have a blown head gasket, thus letting the water from the radiator get into the oil. In the worst case, you could have a damaged cylinder head gasket or a cracked block. That would cause oil to be found in your coolant as well as water in your oil. More commonly, a bad pcv valve or rocker arm cover gasket is to blame. What kind of car is it. On some cars it is very common and is not a problem at all.
I hope that i can be of help. I had to replace my alternator. First remove the positive and the negative cables from battery. Take time to look at manner inwhich the belt is woven around the alternator and the pulley, it will have to go back on the same way. Remove the air intake nozzle by removing the 2-10mm bolts on the radiator support. Remove the electrical plug from the back of the alternator. squeeze white clip down with small flat bladed screwdriver and then squeeze the dark gray clip, I found it easier to remove after the belt and bolts were removed. There are two bolts that are holding on the alternator. The top one is a 14mm and the bottom one is a 12mm. The belt tensioner is located between the alternator and the crank pulley. You need to jack up the front of the vehicle and remove the splash pan (4-14mm bolts). Look up and you will see a hex headed bolt on the bottom of the tensioner pulley. Again, 14mm, a little awkward, but a socket and extentsion will clear the lines. Back off generously and you will have enough slack to remove the belt. When replacing, put the top bolt first, then the bottom. Belt back on, double check for alignment, and then go underneath and tighten the bolt to the tensioner until snug, not too tight. The other two belts on this engine all remove and tighten with the same proces. Once you have the correct tension reattach battery cables.
This is not a job to be done by a backyard mechanic. The pressures are irrelevant as you will have to take this to a shop to be done anyway.
Not sure why anyone would say you need to take it to a shop just for a recharge. Since around 1995 when manufacturers started using R-134 "freon" instead of the old R-12, charging a system has gotten a lot easier. The fittings are different for the low side (suction) and the high side (pressure), so you can't connect to the wrong port.
You can get cans of R-134 from Wal-Mart for under $9.00 (12 oz.), and even get the lows side hose kit (usually blue in color to indicate low/suction/cold. But for about $17.00 at Autozone, they have a low side kit that has the "puncture" fitting to connect to the can, a hose that connects to the suction port on the car, and a built-in suction gauge marked for the desired suction pressure.
Basically, open up the puncture valve so it is back from where the can connects, connect it to the can, connect the other end to the car's suction port (only fits the correct port), then start the car. Run the A/C full on, windows down, max cool. Now, close the puncture valve so it pierces the top of the can, then as you open it up, R-134 will be sucked into the A/C system. You can probably point the can downward while it is filling, and you can always feel the hose-end of the can getting colder as freon enters the system.
Once the can feels real light, and the end doesn't feel cool anymore, you're probably done, Usually, if you had been feeling a small amount of cooling before, one can will be enough to fox things. Close the valve, tun the engine off, then disconnect the hose from the car. Replace the protective cap that was on thew valve in the first place - this protects the valve from dirt, but more importantly, it makes sure the freon doesn't leak out the service port. There should be a cap on the pressure point as well. If either cap is missing, get a replacement from an automotive parts store.
Don't let anyone tell you that you "have" to take it to a shop. As long as the "parts" are working OK, a recharge is pretty easy.
...................... Above is correct, and do not get discouraged if everything does not work perfectly (cold air) at first. Mine took a couple of days to re-lubricate the compressor and function correctly. The cost was $21.oo, and patience, instead of 350.oo at a shop.
[bjranson] Agreed. I just did it with a R134 can/pressure gauge kit from Walmart - $24. Very straightforward, and this is the first time I've ever done such a thing. The guy who said take it to a mechanic is probably a mechanic himself and doesn't want to lose business and hundreds of $ to DIYers. Either that or he's just scaremongering.
yes you can but you will need some fab skills and basic mechanical know how
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