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The flasher/turn signal is screwed into the metal support above the fuse panel, you must take the bottom of the dash off and remove the plastic cover. this is for a sable that has light out detection. Any questions, contact chrisvolkswagon@msn.com I know for Real. Look under your dash. Look for a Blue Box screwed into the right side of the dash panel. This of course is done, with you laying on your back, and your feet in the back seat. It sucks to get to, but it's the easiest to access once your under there. It's a blue box, about the size of half a twinkie. Remove the plug that holds it in, unscrew the screw that holds it to the frame, and go to Autozone to get a new relay. You will have to reuse the metal piece that holds the relay to the dash panel, so be sure and save that before you throw the old part away. Installation is the reverse. Be sure to read through the Related Question below on the Taurus - great tips & info that equally applies to the Sable. Flasher relay is located, behind left side of instrument panel. The Flasher sensor looks like a little aluminum can, and is located under the dash (provided they didn't include a dash cover) otherwise you'd have to unscrew it first from all it's mounting screws. The can is mounted on the steering column up a ways, (best way to see is to put your head up there, while your feet rest in the backseat, it's uncomfortable but it works. You'll see two cans, left/right, turn your key to the "on" position, and use the turn signals, and feel each can for a clicking feel/sound. Don't replace that one, unless you don't have turn signals either. Henceforth the other one is the Hazard/Flasher sensor. Pull out the wire clip (it's easier if you slide the can out of it's holding clip, pop in a new one, and get upright before you pass out. Check all of the fuses. If they are good change the flasher which is in the fuse box on some cars. The flasher on most cars is located around the fuse box under the dash, or attached to the underside of the dash. It is a small round cylindrical Can made of aluminum, or plastic.

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• My first guess is the neighbor's cat trying to get out from underneath the hood. However, if you see no hair, I would question if the oil is getting up to the valves efficiently. I can do a little research, but I would need the engine size, how often you change the oil, what weight oil you use (5w30?) and does the noise come from above the engine or below? Is the noise a heavy knock or more of a tapping? Post a follow-up here, and I'll try to help.
• Replace the PCV valve. I've had similar problems with a Saturn, I even had to replace a whole motor because it consumed too much oil. I discovered that the new engine was doing the same thing. After replacing the PCV, everything was back to normal.
• There is a TSB about cylinder head gaskets leaking on these cars. This kind of leaks can have various symptoms including those that your having.
• Sounds like car has been overheated and has a collapsed piston skirt. This will cause piston slap until piston heat up and expand.
• Synthetic oil is too thin for a used engine. You should use a straight weight oil, like 30W. Sometimes a flex plate on the transmission will develop cracks and make noise when cold (been there). If the oil pressure is low, there could be a knock, which synthetic oil can cause in an older engine because it is too thin. If there is a check valve in the oil filter or a cheap oil filter, it could be letting the oil drain from the oil pump.
• A cold knock is usually caused by piston to cylinder wall excessive clearence. sometime on a quick rebuild .even with spread the piston skirt. you will get a knock. a low down in the engine heavy knock is main bearings. a fast knock is the rods bearing our a cracked piston. a tapping upper niose is valve lifts in a hydraulic lifter engine. in a solid lifter engine you cah adjust the noise out. some time you will have change the rocker arms our resurface. a bearing knock get louder with temperature. pistons expand with tempiture quiting the noise you need any experinced mechanic to tell you what is wrong, in person. long distance diagnose is hard. hold it up to the phone and let me hear it turbo joe.
• It sounds like you're transmission is beginning to collapse. Is it an automatic? If so, you might want a professional mechanic to examine this IMMEDIATELY. If you don't not only will it become undrivable but it could eventually affect the rest of the engine like a series of bombs taking out individual parts. I had a experience very much like what you're describing with a 95 Buick Skylark and by the time it was looked at 2/3 of the engine was destroyed. Good luck!
• Sometimes if you do not change your oil and the oil breaks down into sludge because you didnt change your oil in time you get whats called a stuck lifter and it can cause a loud rocking slapping noise they have engine cleaners that are on the market some aren't so good so choose wisely.
• Oil... and really watch what oil you use... newer hondas and other foeregn jobs have small ports for oil circulation.... well for the oil to return to the bottom... that could cause rod knock... and since the oil isn't going back down right away to get pumped it would cause the rockers to rattle a bit... but when it warms up finally the oil will flo better.... cant remember which company... but if you popped the motor by using the wrong oil they wont cover a damn cent.... even if its only 3 4 months old.
• Ok there right but if u had bad rings 1 the car would smoke and 2 the car wouldn't have power now i had a 94 thunderbird with a 3.8 and i got the same knocking or tapping and it was a ristpin which is located on the piston if you didnt know now most likely if its a tapping noise from the top of the engine it is normally a callapsed lifter which happen you wont lose power and it wont smoke but to cure the noise use a heavy weight oil such as 20/50the tap could also come from rockers if you have a cloged push rod which happens over age it will cause a lack of oil to the top if the engine process of elimination check the rockers make sure there tight and to torque sequence.
• I've had 2 Hondas, and still currently have one of them. I don't think you have anything to worry about. I was reading all of these responses and laughing...The cars run at a higher idle, which is computer driven until the engine is warm. The Vtec kicks in at higher idles (usually 4000+ rpms) but it is also driven by oil pressure. Since the oil is more viscous at colder temps, and the car is running at higher rpms, your are simply hearing some valve noise. Chances are the valves are perfectly fine. Once warm...does the car run ok, I'm guessing yes. The guy that answered saying it's the Transmission...c'mon you can't compare a Buick to a Honda!
• It's because oil, even a multi-grade like 5w30 is still too thick to flow efficiently when cold. Auto manufacturers choose an engine oil "weight" for OPERATING temperatures, not for when the engine is cold. Even a 5 or 0w oil, when cold, is thicker than a 40w at operating temp. This causes restriction in the small orifices in parts such as lifters, which is the most common source of engine tick when an engine is cold. BTW, cold is defined as a temperature less than the oil's effective operating range, 180-250F for example. That said, an oil at room temperature is still too thick. Google it.

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under dash

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Probably part of the hazard warning module - part of the hazard switch

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Left side of the steering wheel behind the dash board. You would need to remove the underside panel of the dash board as well as a metal plate. You would probably also have to remove the dimmer switch panel and the metal bracket just behind it if you want to see where your hand is going. Access to the flasher is through the underside. Look for a light blue plastic connector.

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First, you remove the fuse cover under the dash on the driver's side. Then read up and behind the fuse block and you will find it dangling on its' plug. You should be able to pull it around the fuse block out where you can easily remove the flasher and replace it with a new one. An additional comment -- On an 85 model, the flasher is clipped to the top of the ashtray casing, not dangling free.

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Well I have a 99 dodge Avenger ES and I've put 3 trannys in it already, so this one should be easy. If your set-up is the same you should have a crossmember that mounts with two bolts in the front and one in back. there is a motor mount connected to it. take all this off. then you can pretty easily access your starter which is located beside your oil pan at the rear of the motor on the front side of the car. there are 4/5 bolts you have to remove. I belive there are two you have two remove from the backside and three from the front side. I hope i could help you out its hard to walk someone through it but once you do it, you'll be able to do it with your eyes closed. I just changed the starter on my wife's avenger. It's not too difficult, but it takes some time, especially for a shade tree mechanic. You must get the vehicle high enough to use a creeper because you have to move around alot under the car. In my case I thought for sure it was a starter solenoid gone bad but that was not the case, so make sure that the starter is the problem. Disconnect battery, remove oil filter, disconnect exhaust at the header, front and rear, remove heat shield, disconnect cable from starter. The starter bolts up at three points through the flywheel case in a semicircular pattern, the bolts are 15mm. One of the bolts is in recessed area and is difficult to reach, a ratchet and socket won't fit, either a small breakover or offset wrench is required. Good luck.

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I just paid my VW dealer $469 for the 40k service ... they wanted an additional $315 to "fix" the "electrical problem" with my turn indicator lights. I said "screw that!" So the bastids gave my car back without an inspection sticker.

I looked everywhere for the flasher unit (some months ago) whenever the turn indicators ceased working properly (intermittent) ... then again before I took it in to the dealer ... but to no avail. I figured it might be well hidden up underneath the dash in some totally inaccessible location ... or buried beneath all that plastic shrouding underneath the hood ... but I couldn't see anything that looked remotely like a flasher unit.

So, remembering that it would "flash" once about every 20 times turn signal lever was flipped, I determined to find it. I parked in my quiet driveway and lay down with my ear near the dash and flipped the turn indicator lever until I got a single weak "click." It appeared to be coming from the "emergency flasher" switch ... you know, the one in the lower switch panel (flanked by the rheostats for the heated seats) with a triangular icon. That's it! The emergency flaser switch IS the turn flasher relay, too! Getting access isn't easy.

You need one of those fancy-smancy star-shaped screwdrivers (and a stubby, at that) to remove the 4 screws ... two at the bottom of the plastic housing in which the switches are mounted, and two more are revealed whenever you pry off the plastic trim that surrounds the rheostats at each end of the switch panel (yep, they just pry right off with your fingers ... pull TOWARD you). Once you have the 4 retaining screws extracted, you can pry the whole switch panel downward at the back, and free up a lip on the upper front edge, dropping the whole thing downward so you can access the wiring harnesses and back-sides of the switches. Pry off the wiring connector from the back of the unit (there's a plastic keeper, but just wiggle the plug & pull sternly and it'll come right off without breaking anything). Then push down on a retainer at the top front of the switch unit and shove it forward and slide it out of the switch panel.

This is the cheapest crappiest constructed switch I have ever seen on a German engineered automobile (maybe it's made in Mexico?). The trouble with mine was the burnt-up contact points of the relay. You have to remove the activator button (the iconized cap) off the front of the switch in order to get the case off (it slides right off if you pry up the edges with a knife tip to free the latches) to get inside for surgery. Doing some micro-surgery to clean the single relay contacts and bend them (with a very fine needle nosed pliers) slightly so that they once again touched when the coil was activated, solved my problem.

Wow! Charging $117 for this cheap piece of crap ought to be felonious!

I forgot to mention ... I checked several different parts houses for a flasher for my 2001 Beetle (AutoZone, NAPA, O'Reilly] ... but they didn't even have a listing for one in their systems. One said his only entry was "dealer item."

Here is the exact numbers from the side panel on mine:

[VW logo] PNT Germany ICO 953 235 WBS + D1 PA6.6 GF30 [a symbol looking like a musical note]

Hey ... hey ... hey ... found a VW Hazard Flasher Switch here for $22:

http://www2.discountvdubparts.com/parts/parts1/discountvdubparts/wizard.jsp?year=2001&make=VW&model=BET--004&category=P∂=Hazard+Flasher+Switch&dp=false

, THANK YOU, THEY Wanted to charg me about $250 and they say it was some electrical problem, i replaced the part myself for $30 thank you again.

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the gap is as follows; US .39 to .43 inch Canada .28 to .31 inch plug is a NGK BPR5ES-11, BP5ES-11 On Autolite Platinum - 63 plugs the gap is .44

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First disconnect the battery cables before attempting this. There are two cables that must be disconnected from the starter (one unpugs from the solenoid and the other is the large cable with a nut securing it to the starter). There are three bolts that must be removed. All must be reached from under the vehicle (two of them are fairly difficult but I found puting a bunch of extensions together making one long bendible 3 foot extension helps). You must open the engine cover (located under the drivers seat) and remove the nut secured to the grounding post. If you have all wheel drive, remove the two bolts holding the center support bearing (I think they take a 17mm socket) and loosen the center support bracket that holds the center support. The driveshaft will now move out of the way of the starter.

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In the center dash console, beneath the middle A/C Vents, besides the Rear Window Defogger and above the A/C Control Panel.

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I just did my Mom's 1991 Buick regal 3.8L. I removed the kick panel underneath the dash above the brake pedal. Follow the brake pedal arm up on the right side of the pedal. I used a mirror to spot the flasher unit. The flasher unit is held by a spring clip with the top of the unit pointing down. Just pull the flasher out of the clip and pull it down.

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0.044 inch, got it from the Haynes manual

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Here is a link to an illustrated step-by-step procedure for replacting a Vanagon ignition switch: http://carboncow.net/vanagon/projects/ignition_switch.htm

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"The turn signal flasher is located on the left steering column bracket under the instrument panel, next to the main fuse panel."

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It is located, front seating area, driver side, under dash, mounted above kick panel.

It is located, front seating area, driver side, under dash, mounted above kick panel.

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The flasher on a 99 Toyota Sienna should be beside the instrument panel fuses under the steering column. You will probably have to remove the driver's side knee bolster to get at it, which is kind of a pain.

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I believe it's located behind the passengers side dash panel.

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Not all 2000 saturns have been recalled or so Im told I have a 2000 Saturn ls2 that ignition just stopped suddenlly one day turned over and nothing (good thing I have remote start)but when trying to get it fixed with recall they said there were very few affected by recall;;;let me know if you come up with ANY solutions,,thanks

Dont replace it!!! Take it to Saturn - ITS FREE - WAS RECALLED, goto the dealer and I am almost sure they will do it free of charge.

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Access indicator flasher under instrument panel left of steering column. Remove screw retaining indicator flasher to instrument panel. Disconnect connector from indicator flasher and remove indicator flasher from vehical.

I am also trying to find flasher on 1997 t bird. I hear it but cant find it- Help please

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Under the dash to the left of the steering column.

on the brake pedal braket, lay on your seat upside down. feet on head rest. head on brake pedal. there is a small plastic cover about 6 inches from your face, remove it. look up about a foot. you'll see a small green box. that is your turn flasher relay. hope you are very flexable.