according to Canadian driving instruction , from dusk to dawn , & if you don't have day runners that come on when vehicle starts , then it's at all times .
In Illinois they must also be on whenever the windshield wipers are on.
* Take a pair of needle nose pliers and a small flat head screwdriver. Put the screwdriver under the bottom and pull upon the tape with the pliers and pull it out. * TRY HOLDING DOWN BOTH REW & FF @ SAME TIME, OR HOLD EJECT WHILE USING PLYERS & SCREWDRIVER, (tape is prob destroyed & player will only eat more tapes U may want to think about replacement). * Had the same problem with both my 1997 and 1998 LeSabre. You must remove the radio from the dash first. Then remove the outside of case to get down to the tape. Then you can lift out with a small screwdriver, but watch out for the side rails that guide the tape in and out. Once I got my favorite Willie Nelson tape out, I never used the tape player again.
The fan remains running after the vehicle shuts off in order for the engine to cool down. Once the motor cools down sensors trigger the fan to shut it off.
I think the code is located in the fuse box under the hood.
I'm pretty positive they don't have one. If there is one available it's as an after-market add-on.
No. In basically every Acura TL over the at least the past 8 years or so, the minimum recommended Octane gas to use according to the Owner's Manuals is 91 or Higher. Yes, regular gas will work, but if you want your TL to work, and work well for a long time then heed the advice in the Owner's Manual.
Putting premium in a 2004 or above Acura TL is not required of the owners manual and will not damage the engine. Yes, it will give you several less horsepower and might not accelerate as fast as MotorTrend tested it, but it will not damage your engine.
I have a 03 tl and recently filled the tank accidentally with regular unleaded fuel. Performance and idle quality suffered, noticed rough idle at traffic lights while idling in drive. unresponsive off idle to about 1500 rpm, replaced with premium on next fill up and within a few miles problem was corrected. That's why it says premium fuel only on gas tank door.
The most logical thing I can think of is *CHECK the connections on both of your battery terminal connectors, make sure they are tightly secured to the terminals? *If say for example the negative battery terminal came out of contact even for a second all of your electronics would appear to go crazy/or turn off, but then come right back on as the ALTERNATOR completely takes over. Although the Alternator completely takes over powering basically everything anyway **NOTE the battery still plays a HUGE role in all of the power supplied from the alternator as it becomes the regulator of power to basically ALL of your electronic components. So if your terminal connection is loose or even seperates completely your car will still run fine, but with the alternator now in full unbridled control of the "non-regulated" flow of power to your electronic components you run a serious risk of possible FRYING any one of them (ie. if your car cell phone charger no longer works suddenly after this happened and your puzzeled as to why, I'm 90+% sure one of your battery terminals is loose or became at least temporarily disconnected) (**while your're at it clean the terminals if necessary, (use either -baking soda and water, OR -a mildly shaken up can of Coca-Cola pour the foamy soda over the terminals and of course rinse with water and let dry ((this was a suggestion by a mechanic, never done it and don't understand how soda acid on battery acid works well in cleaning but I've had this veified and apparently it does)), OR just use a can of CRC Battery terminal cleaner (I think this is the BEST CHOICE because it comes out yellow as it cleans but turns pink when it encounters Acid) ***ADDITIONALLY (1) make sure there is not an excessive amount of white powder (ie. battery acid) that is going into your cables, if excessive and if you dig in to the cables and keep hitting powder rather than wire may be time to replace either or both the positive and negative cable. (2) Put a coat of either vasoline, canned "terminal protector", or My Preference any type of "dilectric grease" (basically vasoline that can also conduct electricity- any type of "Bulb Grease or Connector Protector" will suffice. (3) MAKE Sure BOTH the positive and negative terminals/connectors are covered with a one of those cheap plastic rubbery fittings that completely cover them. (not just the positive one) -Proctecting BOTH is important and beneficial for several reasons... (4) LAST BUT ALSO VERY IMPORTANT check the "Ground Wires, their connections, and the bolts they are connected to" Especially the ground wire that is located straight down/left of the battery, and closest to the bottom of the engine (below the starter). The often bare copper leading up to it can become corroded and frayed and that along with the bolt and terminal connecting to the ground bolt really get filthy with grease, road grime and salts, and crud in general. Clean it off make sure conncetion is secure and wires are not frayed and DONE! ((Oh and OF COURSE MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY IS SECURELY BOLTED DOWN and IS VERY SNUG IN THE BATTERY BOX, IF YOU GRAB THE MAIN CLAMP BAR THAT HOLDS THE BATTERY DOWN AND TRY TO WIGGLE IT BACK AND FORTH IT SHOULD BE TIGHT ENOUGH THAT YOU ARE BARELY ABLE TO FEEL IT MOVE AT ALL - So many battery's are not securely bolted into their box and wiggle around - loosening the connections to the terminals is only ONE of MANY problems this can cause over time!)) NOW YOU'RE DONE! I obviusly don't know if that is what happened for sure when your car appeared to turn off for a split second while driving about 70 mph and suddenly came back on, but again it is the most logical thing I can think of. And if you do all the stuff and check ups recommended to your battery above and I happen to be wrong, I promise you, your time was not wasted anyway in doing and checking all the things recommended above. Unless you do all of this anyway, it will still have a very positive effect on your car, as well as prevent a number of potential future problems. Hope this helps!! Jevin I had a similar problem with my 99 TL. It turned out to be the ignition switch.
It's not the valve. I've never worked on an acura. but it's not the valve. they rarely short out. check the passages, and the vacum pump. hopefully someone with acura experience comes along. good luck.
Ok this guy is a clown. I have never worked on an acura either but it may verry well be that the egr valve is coverd in carbon. The carbon is easy to clean with a wire brush if you remove the valve.The main cause of malfunction in an egr valve is the carbon build up leaving it stuck open or closed! Simple huh?
i have a 99tl that had the same problem. simply remove the intake and clean the carbon from the passages to egr. it not difficult, it took about 15 mins and have not had trouble since, good luck!
Absolutely right! I had a problem where when I drive at a constant speed of 45mph or higher, my '99 Acura TL would behave very weirdly. The engine didn't turn off but even though the car is in DRIVE but still behaved like it was in NEUTRAL, and then it will kick back in and start working again. This happened a lot of times then the check engine light came on. I received the P0401 error code. I bought a new EGR valve from Autozone and replaced it. Works great. However, I do hear a little bit louder noise when the engine starts and I take off, but the Autozone guy told me that it is because there is a lot more air passing through, since the old valve was clogged up.
It is fairly easy and quick to change. I love the performance now!
Means the vehicle needs an oil change or other maintenance. Newer models also show a code like "B16" which will indicate what maintenance is needed. There are instructions in the manual on how to clear the light. However, you should do the maintenance yourself or have it done at a shop as soon as you can.
this will explain it, all you need a screwdriver, your air filter(cabin) is located behind your glove compartment. you'll need to remove it and there you can reach your filter. total estimated time to replace..i would say about 20 mins... its better than letting the dealership do it for 89bucks (not inc. taxes) = ripoff...
hope this helps, enjoy!
My 1999 Honda Accord just starting doing this today, after I went thru the car wash. It goes off and then comes back on. Anybody know why? Maybe it was the mud holding it together....
This starter can be changed without disassembling the top of the engine on the 2.5 with automatic transmission. You will need a 10mm, 14 mm, 17mm, and a 9mm wrench. First with any electrical repair disconnect the battery at the negative terminal. The starter is on the driver's side close to the firewall below the intake manifold. Remove the transmission dip stick so you don't ruin it, then look and study the starter itself. You will notice the starter drive housing with a top and bottom bolt. The top bolt is a 14mm and the bottom a 17mm, loosen both a half turn. Remove the top 14mm bolt first, then the bottom 17mm, this will allow you to pull the starter out of the bell housing. With some angling and no brackets holding the back of the starter you should be able to pull it out enough to disconnect the positive wire and 9mm nut from the soleniod. Disconnect the starter ignition small wire by pulling it off it's connector. Now just pull it out of the engine and fender void and you've got it, saving about a hundred and fifty dollars of labor. Take it to the parts house and match it up with a well made remanufactured or new starter. Reverse the proceedure, hook up the battery and smile. Now take someone you love to dinner or buy yourself a HUNDRED DOLLAR GIFT and you still saved fifty dollars. God Bless
It has an IAT sensor which is located under the plastic engine cover. It is on the curve at the top right of the intake manifold. It is screwed in and it is grey. There are two wires comming out one is red/yellow other is black green.
It's behind the glove box according to my Chilton manual. I'm not sure if the dash has to be removed, but the condenser does if you have AC. So, the AC has to be discharged first. The dealer estimates 4 hours labor to replace the blower motor.
They are pretty easy. I just did my friends front rotors and pads on an 01' Acura TL's. Pull all wheels off. Take pads off shoud be a 14mm to take the calipers off. Compress the calipers. Hang up your calipers w/ wire or string so they are not hanging by the brake line. Next look on the back side of the carrier. There will be 2 17mm bolts holding a the bracket for the calipers and pads. If you have trouble breaking them free, use a brass or dead blow hammer on the wrench. (You will be doing the same to tighten the bolts back up.) Next there will be 2 Phillips head screws on the rotors. Now these can be a royal pain to get out w/ out stripping the head of the scews. I used an impact tool w/ a hammer to get them out. The craftsman one runs about 30 bucks. (It is not an air tool. It just looks like an oversized screw driver. It is spring loaded, so when you nail it w/ the hammer you will want to twist at the same time and it will break the screws loose.) Once those screws are out pull the rotors off. Degrease the new ones and reverse the process. Make sure you use the impact tool to put the screws back in. Hopefully the rotors come w/ them.
If you change your rotors I suggest changing the pads also.
This was for the fronts on an 01 Acura TL. I do not know if there is a difference between the years. Pay close attention when you start to pull the rotor off. Should be the same process for the rear I do not know. The only thing that might be different on the rear is that the bearing is in the rotor. Check the back rotors to see what they are. (If bearings are in the rear rotors, buy Bendix rotors for the rear. They come w/ the bearing carriers already in the rotor so you do not have to press them in. Buy grease and rear seal for rear rotors. Pack the bearing w/ new grease, put seal in back or rotor, make sure it is flush and put the rotor back on.) I mainly work on BMW's, and VW's.
If you're certain that there is fuel in the tank, I'd suggest that you have a faulty connector and/or ground wire.
I had this same problem along with the dash lights out. I found out it was a blown fuse in the fusebox under the hood. It is a 15amp fuse. The owners manuel identifies it as "small Interior Light".
You should also check the door switch to ensure it is properly connected and functioning. The switch has a protective rubber cover and is located on the outside of the post that separates the front and back doors. Remove it for inspection by lifting the rubber flap that covers the attachment screw (below the switch plunger)and unscrewing the screw with a no. 2 Phillips screwdriver or a hex head socket. The plastic switch attaches to the holder screwed to the chassis. The switch interrupts the ground side of the electrical circuit (normally open). If the switch is not firmly seated in the holder, the metal prongs in the switch do not make contact with the chassis ground circuit. If the switch is loose, try snapping it back into place, or replace if necessary.
I had the timing belt on my Acura TL (1998) replaced at about 70000 miles (before it went out). If your car is 6 - 7 years old with 65000 miles or more, it might be wise to go ahead and replace the timing belt before it goes out. the factory recommends at 105,000, i changed mine at 95,000 what ever makes you more comfortable.
I've been told to check the switch under the brake pedal to see if it is stuck or worn out.
Actually when you replace the CD player, your sub is probably not going to work and that specific sub is hard to replace with a thin one that exists currently and so you might have to replace it with a powered sub in the trunk.
the number one cylinder is located on the pulley side, then goes 234 to the transmission side.
They are used primarily by Japanese and other Asian automotive manufacturing companies. They are the equivalent to the following standard Cartesian coordinate system axes. X=TL (traverse line) Y=BL (buttock line) Z=WL (water line)
The '97 Acura has about 200 hp. Also, the 3.2 V6 engine from 99 on has 225 HP
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