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Yes. Used Acura cars have a good reputation as they hold their value well in comparison to some other brands. Those who drive Acura really enjoy their Acura vehicles.

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There is a bolt with a square cavity in it that faces towards the right side of the car on the drain pan for the transmission fluid. I have been able to unscrew it with a ratchet wrench that does NOT have a bolt thingee (ie. 1/2" 3/4" etc) on it. I just use the square fitting of the ratchet wrench to fit in there. Slowly loosen it (it will take a few turns to get it out) with a drain pan below and to the right side. When bolt is nearly all the way out, one can remove with fingers. Make sure not to drop the bolt in the pan, and be prepared for fluid to shoot out a few inches, especially when the transmission fluid dipstick is removed (helps fluid drain faster). Wait 10-15 minutes for all fluid to drain out, and then replace with same amount of fluid that came out. Draining should probably done with engine warm, but not too hot or the risk of burning oneself is greater. After draining, finger tighten bolt, and use ratchet wrench's square fitting to tighten secure.

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Qatar has available all the cars that we have here in the States, and more. Some may be named differently (Ford 500 here is the Mondeo there), but they have all the same brands. When I spent 2 months in Doha, I saw more money driving around on the streets than I've ever seen before in my life. The strangest thing I saw was the car my company gave me to drive - a 2008 Diesel QuadCab Ford Ranger. You can't get a diesel in a Ranger, or a 4-door Ranger here in the States. It was an interesting experience, vehicle-wise.

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The best lug wrench is the cross shaped type with 4 different sockets. This is the only hand wrench that will apply enough torque on your lug bolts.

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One important thing to remember when puchasing any used vehicle is buyer beware! You should always have a used vehicle checked by a trusted mechanic prior to purchasing. Craigs List can be a great source for used Acuras, but you will want to make sure you take proper precautions.

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If by valve gasket, you mean the valve cover gasket, then its rather simple. I have a site that shows how its done. Just remove the top nuts and replace. The nuts should be tightened evenly across the valve cover. Here's my site:

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/search_results.cgi?searchbymemid=1&sort_by_override=member_id&member_id=rnmtwins

feel free to e-mail me at raitedare@aol.com.

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I just had this happen to me on a 96 Pathfinder. Here is the solution which i found on another site:

"corrected response: Pressing the door knob sensor 5-7 times within 5 seconds DOES WORK!!! The door knob sensor can be found on the frame where the (driver) door closes. It is a black coloured rubber button. Turn the ignition on (do not turn on the car though) and press the door knob sensor once almost every second for 5-7 times - Do not go too fast. And it should work. Do not give up if it does not work at the first attempt. It required five times for me... Once the flashing airbag light is gone, turn off the ignition. Wait for about 10 seconds. Then turn on the car and the airbag light should go off after a few seconds. Good luck!! Thanks a lot to the person who posted this first time... and also to people who subsequently confirmed the sucess of the trick. This saved about a hundred bucks!! Cheers!!! "

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You have two screws for each head light.The are located through holes above the headlight in the cars body. One screw will aim the left or the right and the other one will adjust it up and down. You need a level surface and a flat wall to get it perfect. To see the screws you might need a flashlight. If you cant find them look it up in the haynes manual in the auto parts store or buy the haynes book.

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DRL modules are like fuses...they are inexpensive, & usually replaced, not repaired.

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There's a little panel you can pop out of the plastic inside wall of the trunk. If you can't reach the light you need from that opening, you'll have to pull the lining back (see all the little plastic fasteners? They look like a circle within a circle - push down on the inner circle with something, for example, a pen, and the outer circle should pop up, allowing you to remove the fastener). Remove the fasteners, then pull the liner back so you can reach whatever light you need to replace. It's hard, but the fasteners go back in easily enough (just pull the peg through, then reinsert it but don't push it all the way in - then put the whole assembly into its proper hole and push the peg down until it clicks).

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The fan switch is actually on the cylinder block. Its located slightly above and to the drivers side of the oil filter. To access and remove it you will need to remove the oil filter and use a thin wall 27 mm long reach socket. An ordinary impact socket has too thick a wall to be able to slip over the fan switch as it is located very close to a fixed pipe. You would be best to put the car on a full height lift rather than trying to access it by putting the car on axle stands. I changed a friends today and it was a pain from start to finish. Stupid place to put a fan switch.

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If the car doesnt have a super or turbo charger and if you dont use nitrous then yes you can use low grade fuel in the car and it wont hurt it what so ever.Although if the grade is below the reccomended octane in your manual then a knocking noise will result as the piston fires. this isn't mechanicalbut just the noise of the gas igniting

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you may want to cleanthe engine veary well to remove any greese and dirt so it will be easyer to see your leak. with engine clean and dry place a sheet of cardbourd under the car to help pinpoint the basic area of the leak. crank the engine and allow to get warm , will engine is running inspect all the hoses and the engine head ,block, ect... you will find your leak

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it would be helpful if at least the model was given. i know in my 88 integra, all you have to do is push the buttons down on either side to let either the left half or the right half of the seats or both

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You drill out the old one or beat it out with a punch and hammer. Then the new one gets pounded in with a hammer.

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They are pretty easy. I just did my friends front rotors and pads on an 01' Acura TL's. Pull all wheels off. Take pads off shoud be a 14mm to take the calipers off. Compress the calipers. Hang up your calipers w/ wire or string so they are not hanging by the brake line. Next look on the back side of the carrier. There will be 2 17mm bolts holding a the bracket for the calipers and pads. If you have trouble breaking them free, use a brass or dead blow hammer on the wrench. (You will be doing the same to tighten the bolts back up.) Next there will be 2 Phillips head screws on the rotors. Now these can be hard to get out w/ out stripping the head of the scews. I used an impact tool w/ a hammer to get them out. The craftsman one runs about 30 bucks. (It is not an air tool. It just looks like an oversized screw driver. It is spring loaded, so when you nail it w/ the hammer you will want to twist at the same time and it will break the screws loose.) Once those screws are out pull the rotors off. Degrease the new ones and reverse the process. Make sure you use the impact tool to put the screws back in. Hopefully the rotors come w/ them.

If you change your rotors I suggest changing the pads also.

This was for the fronts on an 01 Acura TL. I do not know if there is a difference between the years. Pay close attention when you start to pull the rotor off. Should be the same process for the rear I do not know. The only thing that might be different on the rear is that the bearing is in the rotor. Check the back rotors to see what they are. (If bearings are in the rear rotors, buy Bendix rotors for the rear. They come w/ the bearing carriers already in the rotor so you do not have to press them in. Buy grease and rear seal for rear rotors. Pack the bearing w/ new grease, put seal in back or rotor, make sure it is flush and put the rotor back on.) I mainly work on BMW's, and VW's.

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As long as they are kept in good condition, used Acuras are certainly a reliable source of transportation. Shop around to find the best deal. You can look in the Kelley Blue Book for the value of any used car to make sure you are not paying too much.

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Low tire pressure

Frozen brake caliper

Bad alignment

Worn front end parts (tie rod ends Pitman arm)

Bent axle

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u gotta start by either soildering or somehow puting the two wires hanging off the miorror to the car....this is for the defroseter. after...get a rag and fild it up and push against the miorror in the center and add preasure...MAKE SURE THE 5 PRONGS BEHINDE THE MIORROR ARE ALL LINED UP TO EACHOTHER OR ELSE IT WONT BE ABLE TO ROTATE AROUND AND BE ADJUSTED FROM THE INSIDE (thats the hardest part).....i did this to my 2000 tl on the driver side... it's kinda shaky on the freeway....but its on there good.. hopefully this helps Raz

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In the fuse panel. Open and read that little book you got when you bought the car. It is called an Owner's Manual. You will be surprised at how much information it contains.

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Read the instructions that came with the aftermarket alarm and follow them.

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I've been told to check the switch under the brake pedal to see if it is stuck or worn out.

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on the oil pan, its a 17mm plug