it hard to say exactlly where the fuseable link is, your best bet is to trace all the lines until you find a small cylindrical rubber piece on the wire, if you are fairly sure that this is your problem its then just a matter of cutting out this section of wire and A: Just splice the wire, using proper connnectors, and heat shrinks to avoid any possible short circuiting B: Purchase a small gauge inline fuse kit and install it in the OEM location of the fuseable link. Again be sure to take your time and make all of the connections securely and properly.
the firing order is 12784563 you can also check valve cover still maybe on there
or go to 401 nailhead-v8buick.com
the best way is to open the decklid to gain acces to the light. Grasp the socket where the wires meet the body and twist gently to the right or left . it only goes one way. the socket will come out of the lens and you pull the bulb straight out. replace it with a new bulb, then reverse what you did to take it out.
Without special tools and adequate knowledge, rebuilding an A/C compressor is essentially impossible. Replacing it can also be problematic without knowledge of how to do the complete repair (replace drier/accumulator? flush system? add proper amount and type of oil?). If you don't already KNOW what you're doing, either get knowledgeable help (someone who KNOWS what he's doing, not just THINKS he knows) or have a competent shop take care of it.
There is a way to repair the compressor as long as it's not the internal gasket. Walmart carries a temporary repair kit. It should get you through the rest of the summer, and maintaining the a/c in the fall and winter is cheaper in labor because mechanics know it's not something you NEED at that time. Also, helpful hint to keep your compressor's internal gaskets in good shape in the winter, run the defrost on cold air for at least 5 minutes every day when not using the a/c that day. It uses the compressor to keep the gaskets moist... if those gaskets get too dry and crack, there is virtually NO way to repair it.
This depends entirely upon what needs to be repaired. If, for example, the electro-magnetic Clutch is faulty, you may find that replacement parts are available. Using special tools (like pulley pullers, etc.), a competent mechanically oriented person could succeed in replacing a Clutch assembly.
Sometimes, the "Shaft Seal" leaks. In this case, it is also possible to replace it---after removing the Clutch assembly
Problems that are "Internal"to the Compressor are, in general, not repairable by a "Novice". In most cases, replacement parts are NOT available.And, even if they were, it requires precision measurement equipment to ensure that the "Fits" of the precision parts are correct.
Rather than try to "Repair" a Compressor, the most common solution is to purchase a complete replacement unit. This could be an "Original Equipment" Compressor or a "Re-Manufactured" Unit that is available from quite a few "Re-Man" Enterprises. Most of these are located in Texas.
A word of CAUTION. Even if you purchase a complete replacement Compressor, it will still be "Quite a Challenge" for a "Novice" without specialized tools to swap Compressors. To Open the System, Flush the System, Ensure the Correct Type and Amount of Lubricating Oil, Evacuate the System, Charge the System and Leak Test /Performance Test the System requires significant special equipment and technical knowledge to do correctly.
The "Risks" of trying to do this yourself are quite high. The Compressor cost will, typically, be $150 to $300. Quite expensive. If the installation is done improperly, the distinct possibility exists that the NEW Compressor could fail quickly due to seizure.
In summary, the best approach to "Fixing" an A/C Compressor problem on your vehicle will generally be to have it done by someone who has real, documented, expertise in this area.
If you have further needs for information about any aspect of A/C Compressor replacement / repair you may call me at answer any auto store sells replacement compressors. most vehicles no longer use freon as suggested in first answer, most now use r-12 or r-34 adapter kits are available to change to r-34 kits with proper amount of oil and gas are available to recharge system, after you change compressor. u do NOT need to be licensed to do this just know proper amount of oil and gas to put into system
Over time a belt can stretch to the point where the tensioner can no longer keep proper tension on it, or if it is an adjustable tensioner it may need tightening.
Also one of the pulleys or driven accessories may be failing and not able to keep up the same speed as the belt is turning so it makes noise.
Failing or dry bearings may be the culprit if the noise seems to be coming from the tensioner.
It's safe. I don't recommend drinking it however. Keep an eye on the condition of the fluid in the rad and reservior. Flush it every 36,000 miles or 3 years-regardless of the manufacturers input.
Could be a dead cell in your battery ?
Listed on the driver's door post. 205/70-14
Make sure you back off the emergency brake adjustment before attempting to compress the piston.
You need to go to your local auto parts store and purchase a special tool. The tool fits onto a rachet and screws the caliper piston into the caliper.
Go buy a 6" C Clamp. You can use that to compress the caliper piston and it is cheaper than a special tool. You can use it for clamping other things around the shop too.
C-clamp won't work, you HAVE TO turn the piston back in with the tool or you could try to put pressure on the piston and turn it at the same time.
ive tried the C-clamp and do not recommend this method!!although upon my first attempt i was unaware that nearly all modern vehicles w/rear disc brakes NEED turned in, like a screw. so i ruined a clamp and the calliper trying to figure it out :( the special tool purchase is not required in most cases because most auto parts stores offer free tool rentals to promote the sales of auto parts, and the tool they offer is usually better than the one most people are willing purchase due to expense probably in the upwards of $50. there is a cheap tool option 3 to 4 bucks kinda looks like a cube w/ a 3/8 ratchet drive hole on each side for a extention to fit to your ratchet. and it has different sized/shaped pegs at the corners of each side to make it more compatible with other vehicles, efficient but difficult to use and i really don't suggest it either but ive used one and it did get the job done. try to find a store that lets you use their tools. AutoZone hasn't had the best service in my experience but it is a good example of a store that practices free tool renals usually nice tools and usually the right one for the job rather than a 3$ junk that's only resulting in sore knuckles //Smallball
Each door contains 2 speakers inside of a plastic "speaker pod." The larger "woofer" is a 5 1/4" speaker, and the "tweeter" mounted above the woofer measures 1 1/4" in diameter.
That depends? Is the compressor freezing? Or is the whole condensor freezing? Well any way if the compressor is freezing try adding more refrigerant or put a crank case heater band on it. If the whole condensor is freezing (assuming it is a heat pump) throw it into cool for 10 minutes to 20 minutes or until condenser is unfrozen then call a tech and ask them to come and repair it cause your defrost board or defrost thermostat is bad.
4.5 quarts without oil filter change, 4.75 quarts with oil filter change.
On 1991, the fuel pump relay is located in an electrical block on the fenderwall, above the battery. On a 1992, it is in the same location.
i found mine right by the casing for the a/c compressed gas, its a small square black box that clicks open and takes a 20 amp and a big fuse whichj u can swap with your a/c fuse if u dont use your a/c
If the problem is that the wipers "park" in the vertical position instead of the "down" position, then the most likely problem is that the cam plate that attaches to the motor itself "slipped" and is out of sequence. My 98 Regal did that, and I took it to a dealer for answers. I was told that this is a common problem that happens when the wiper arms get obstructed when the arms try to return to the "parked" position when they are turned off-- for example, if ice is on the windshield cowl (my problem!!).
I replaced the motor & transmission, but they STILL aren't just right, I think because I might not have the cam plate and the wiper arms fixed into the correct rotation-- they pressure fit into place and don't have a clear spline by which you can line things up. I can do most things on cars, but this has been a real challenge! The dealer, by the way, wants around $300 to correct this problem-- labor plus $200+ for the new part. It's not too hard to take things apart and reassemle them-- but it IS hard to know how the exact alignment of all the parts when you reassemble. Wish I had a better answer, but that's what I found out. If you have a question, chuck_Devers@SBCglobal.net will get you through to me.
I had a wiper failure while in high during a rain storm. The arm was moving only 10% of the time on the driver side. I took the wiper arm off the toothed cam and fit a rubber washer on there. I then replaced the wiper, which was not easy, but once i did it the arm has not slipped at all. This was a roadside repair so i expected failure within a few weeks if that long, but it has lasted over months and many rain storms. Hope my solution can fix your head scratcher.
Hey Jeff==It is on the pass side of the intake manifold. There should be a hose going from it to the throtle body. GoodluckJoe
Additionally: I rotated my engine to get access to the pcv, and changed the three sparkplugs back there while I had access. Using the slope of the driveway as a helper, I was able to swing the engine just by grabbing the top and pulling it toward me. Jonny
If it has the 3800 engine, it will be located on the passenger's side, inboard of the wheel, and mounted just inside the frame between the mount points for the control arm for the suspension.
Have the engine and trans mounts checked.
Easy enough. jack up front end and support remove wheel remove brake caliper and pads and caliper bracket remove rotor, bang/pry off if necessary loosen axle nut, flush to end of axle remove the tie rod end that sits in the spindle(don't touch the jam nut on rack side) swing tie rod/rack arm aside tap end of axle bolt to loosen axle in housing remove axle nut and swing/push spindle to one side while pulling axle out the other installation is the reverse
How to replace starter for 1996 Buick Regal #.8 Liter 6cyl
along the frame towards the back near the fuel tank divers side
The Oilpressure switch is located near the oil filter, just upper side with the electric wires plug in
try following the upper radiater hose to the engine. at the engine you'll find a housing w/ the thermostat inside. make sure the spring goes towards the engine when replacing. should just be two bolts holding it on. be sure to clean the seat of all old gasket mat'l.
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