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A. Turn the igition switch on B. Depress the OFF and WARMER buttons on the climate control panel at the same time until the segment check appears on the instrument panel. c. once the service mode is entered , any trouble codes that are stored in the computer memory will be displayed.

TO CLEAR CODES A. Press the HI button on the climate control panel, this will cause the display to read ECM DATA. B. Press the LO button on the climate control panel until the display reads ECM CLEAR CODES. C. Now press the high button on the climate control panel and the display should read ECM CODES CLEAR. C. After 3 seconds all stored ECM codes will be erased.

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Brand new off the assembly line they cost $21,265.00

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There is only one circuit breaker to my knowledge and it is for the power windows. I have a 1968 Fleetwood and it is very similar. What exactly is the problem?

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Hey Fred==Change the fuel filter first. Then if it still does it find out if it has fire or spray starting fluid in the throtle body and see if it needs fuel to run. GoodluckJoe

its a sensor my dads buick did the same (gm).................... for got the name of it thoe.....................................& it secrews right in. get it diagnos check its worth it..... iwanna say map sensor but not sure the name of it

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I also had a hard time finding the blower motor on my 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 4 door. In my case it was located under the dash clear to the right side on the passenger side (if you are sitting in the passenger seat it would be directly above your right foot). To be super carefull you should disconnect the battery first. Next remove the plastic cover under the entire dash (see photos provided below) I think it is a 9/32 to remove the cover. You can now see the blower motor, there are three 7-32nd hex head screws holding the blower motor in place, also unplug the power harness to the blower motor. It was easy to remove and re-install. In my case it was a loose wire, you might want to check that first. Be carefull, if you remove the blower motor and leave it plugged into the power it might start spinning in your hand if it is a loose wire problem. I spent so much time researching on the net the location of this 1995 Cadillac blower motor that I thought I could help someone else in the future if I took pictures of the whole procedure. I put the pics here: http://www.amesweb.com/pics/Replacing_Blower_Motor_1995_Cadillac_Fleetwood_Brougham/index.html Here is the forum that I originally posted my question and answer: http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/rwd-19xx-1985-deville-fleetwood-1985/63498-blower-motor-location-95-fleetwood.html?highlight=blower+motor+fleetwood Ed.

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Clogged fuel filter, replace.

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steps

drain coolent, remove belt, remove alternator, remove ac line bracket to swing out of the way, remove pump pulley, remove a number of small mounting bolts around the pump sheet metal housing.

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This question could be clearer and it would be helpful to know the make and year of car. Some older GM cars had screws inside the column that would come loose and cause the wheel to have excessive play. You could grip the wheel and move it from side to side or up and down. The fix was to dissasemble the column and tighten the screws. It was a lot of work because you had to pull the wheel, remove the locking plate, turn signal switch and lock cylinder, then extract the pivot pins and pull off the housing. Then you could tighten up the screws and put the whole thing back together. Special tools were needed to remove the locking plate and pull the pivot pins. This question could also refer to a problem where the tilt latch is broken and the wheel will not lock in place.

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That's easy. Of course you can. But the trick is not a slim jim. It is a coat hanger. I locked my keys in my car once outside of my work place. So I took a coat hanger, brought it down towards the sliding lock mechanism itself, and then poked up and down until I figured out where the mechanism was. Then simply slide it to the left, try not push too much of the hanger in otherwise you won't have the necessary leverage and the hanger will bend.

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no, but it does have a fuel pump relay. it has a fuel pressure regulater

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Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader. Alright, let's begin the madness: 1. Take your DMM, set it to measure Ohms (use the 20k setting.) Measure the resistance across the pellet of the ignition key. Place one probe on the silver part of one side of the pellet, and the other probe on the other side. Write this value down. 2. Purchase a resistor or resistors that add up to the value measured in step 1. Radio Shack is a great place to go for the resistors, heat shrink tubing, and the "bullet-style" solderless connectors. 3. Take the 16 ga. wire and cut into 2 four-inch pieces. 4. Strip off approx 1/16" of insulation off each side of both wire pieces. 5. Put your resistors together in series (or if you're lucky and have a chip that has a resistance that matches a single resistor) and solder one wire to one end of the resistor(s) and the other wire to the other side. Example: You measure 11.72 on the 20k (k meaning kilo or 1,000) scale. The closest match is 11.801 which is a #15 "chip." Always remember that resistors have a tolerance of 2%, meaning the resistance value of the "pellet" can be either 2% higher or 2% lower than 11.801 k ohms (11.72 falls in tolerance range.) You will want to aim for 11,801 ohms. So when you go to Radio Shack you want to pick up a 10,000 ohm (10k,) a 1,000 ohm (1k,) and an 800 ohm resistors to wire together in series to achieve the 11.801k ohm value. Here's an example of how you'd connect the above mentioned resistors in "series" wire------10k ohm------I------1k ohm------I------800 ohm------wire 6. Measure the resistance across the 2 wires now that the resistors are soldered to them. Be absolutely sure the value matches that of the resistor pellet in the ignition key (within 2% up or down.) 7. Cut a length of heat-shrink tubing to cover up the resistors, allowing a small bit to hang over onto each of the 2 wires. Use a lighter or heat gun to shrink the tubing. 8. On one of the wires, crimp on a male bullet connector, and on the other wire crimp on a female bullet connector. 9. Now what you have should look like this: Notice in the above "resistor pack" I lucked out and only needed 1 resistor to match the pellet's resistance. You may not be so lucky... 10. Now move to the car. Remove the under-dash kick panel. 11. Look for an orange wire running down the steering column. This wire should have a "rubbery" feel to it, and it is the only orange wire running from the column. **WARNING** Do not tamper with any of the wires near the column wrapped in yellow harness tape or any yellow wire. These wires are for the airbag. Tampering with any of these wires could result in the airbag discharging. 12. Cut this wire (there are 2 small wires inside) and strip back the insulation on the wires on the opposite side of the steering column. 13. Install a male bullet connector to one of the 2 wires, and a female on the other. 14. Plug in your "resistor pack" that you made by mating the male and female bullet connectors. 15. Attempt to start the car. If your problem was with the VATS reader in the ignition lock cylinder, this will start the car. If this won't start the car, then the problem is in the VATS module. If the VATS module is bad, remove the resistor pack. Strip the insulation off the other side of the main wire cut (running from the column) and place a male connector on one wire and a female on the other. Plug the 2 halves back together to restore the function of the VATS reader.

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in all cars the lower drivers side windshield will be the vin # it will be on a small piece of black metal.

You can also find the VIN on the driver side door jam. If you don't have access to the vehicle, your DMV can find out the VIN but there's a fee. Typically around $25.

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you cant unless you have a a/c recovery machine.gm Jim

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Disconnect battery. Drain rad, there's a plug on the back side towards the bottom of your rad that screws out. You have to take your serpentine belt off (1\2" rachet into tensioner), and remove your alternator. Find a way to jam the pully on your water pump ( its just below the alternator ) to take it off,a pair of vicegrips work well. There will be about a dozen 10 MM bolts going around the water pump. Take those out along with your idler pully ( the free spinning wheel towards the firewall)if you need to ( only if you have the 3 peice bracket, mine did but i replaced it with the 1 peice from an 86 or 87). if you pull on the water pump it should come off of the engine. Make sure that you remove all of the old seal before installing new pump and seal. You may want to use a little sillicone to hold the new seal to the pump to stop it from moving around.

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they are fuel injected, there is a filter located on the frame rail on the passenger side . it is under a slight amount of pressure. it would be wise to have a rag around the fitting as you loosen it.

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It is located on the left side of the steering column. You will have to remove panels underneath the dash- as well as some ductwork to gain access.

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The Fleetwood of this vintage has a circuit breaker on the fuse panel. It is a cylindrical device that snaps in like a fuse and on the bottom of the fuse panel. Check your manual for the exact location. That may --not-- be the problem, it could be a fuseable link between there and the starter, where the power divides coming from the battery. There is a possiblity of a problem with the ignition switch causing the problem as well. Also, this divine classic has the "Emergency" switch and bypass switch, which could be root of the problem. The best thing is to become friends with your DC voltmeter and trace out the circuit. A Cadillac shop manual is your best friend for doing this. I have one for my 1968 Fleetwood Limo and have spent many "quality" hours with this good book.

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This is a huge job. I suggest taking it to a garage.

As of yesterday, I discovered I have the same problem with the exact same car.

I have bypassed the heater core until I evaluate my options. (You can do that in this part of the country.)

Were you able to effect a repair without paying a Cadillac dealer to do all the work for you ?.

An independent repair shop charged me $340.89 for this work. The core was $193.26 (plus tax), the labor was 1.80 hours at $68.50/hour, plus antifreeze.

The work required is not extensive and there is nothing 'huge' about it. You access the climate control housing by detaching the panel under the passenger air-bag and removing the glove box. The heater core can then be removed from inside the car after removing the back panel from the climate control housing. I had to return the car to the shop as the heater was making a howling noise. As it turned out, there was a leak in the join (between the two panels of the climate control housing) which was rectified by applying a small section of special thick tape to the un-taped part of the join.

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First I'll say is that if you are not a well seasoned tech, not an easy task to perform. Basically its positioned right below the signal switch. So if you can reach down that far into the steering column, there it is. Depress the locking plate and remove.

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You don't. You do not have the tools nor the expertise to do this. If it is broken your insurance will more than likely cover the cost. Call a professional.

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If i am understanding your question coreectly you tighten them in a star pattern. if more then 5 lugs do the best you can!!!!!!!!!!!! This applies to all wheel lugs on any vehicle. keep in mind that one side will be reversed threads on an older vehicle such as yours. Don't try to bradk them loose turning them the wrong way or you will be replacing broken lugs!!!!!!!!!!!

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1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Distributor rotates counterclockwise.

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the oil filter should be right under the front of the car in the middle right beside the bolt or nut that you take off to let the old oil out.

The above answer is incorrect for the front wheel drive Fleetwood the oil filter is located above the transmission near where the exhaust goes over the back of the engine.

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Referenced from 'Chilton 28540 Deville/Fleetwood/Eldorado/Seville 1990-98 Repair Manual' Page 2-10, Fig. 28: 4.5L and 4.9L Engines 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, Distributor Rotation Counterclockwise. Number 1 Plug is in reference to facing front of motor, first(1st)Cylinder, right side. Page 2-10, Fig. 29: 4.6L Engines 1-2-7-3-4-5-6-8, Distributorless Ignition System. Number 1 Plug is in reference to facing front of motor, Third(3rd)Cylinder, right side. This information should also be cast into the intake manifold.

The location of #1 wire should be marked on the distributor cap, but this assumes that base ignition timing is set correctly. If you've rotated the distributor, do the following:

1) Rotate the engine to #1 TDC. This means that the timing marks line up to #1 and that cylinder is on the compression stroke. It is on the compression stroke when you can't hold your finger over the spark plug hole while rotating the crank pulley clockwise.

2) Remove the distributor cap.

3) Loosen the distributor hold-down.

4) Rotate the distributor until the rotor points at the #1 terminal.

5) Reinstall cap and #1 spark plug and wire.

6) Warm up the engine, then put PCM it in set-timing mode using the climate control head.

7) Set base timing using a timing light.