Where is it at I want to know
Yes but sometimes their modified
Check owner's manual. If you don't have one copy and paste link below; www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals
It's in the right front passenger footwell , in the corner , by the kick panel , just above
Open the drivers door and in the drivers end of the dash you will see a removable
plastic cover panel . The fuses are behind the panel
Underneath the Explorer , just ahead of the rear bumper
Open the drivers door , on the drivers end of the dash is a small removable plastic
cover panel , the fuses are behind the panel
If you want to see a fuse panel diagram :
Click on the link below , Click on Owner Guides , the owners manual which includes
the diagram can be viewed on-line
The spark plug being wet with gas could be a multitude of problems, but, you're in luck, the most likely cause would be a leaky fuel injector, or multiple ones, if it seems like the car is running rich (strong gasoline smell from exhaust while running) that's probably your problem. The injector isn't fully closing when you shut the car off and its dripping gasoline into the open cylinder and its soaking the plug. You may notice the car taking longer to start in the mornings (or after a longer period of sitting) because the fuel rail is draining through the open injectors while the car is shut off. You should have this diagnosed by a trained technician, but its a point in the right direction.
Behind the dash below and to the left of the steering wheel . Turn the ( 4 )
cover panel " pins ' counterclockwise to remove the cover panel
you need to look at the parts and shut up
If you have good credit, you may be able to refinance it.
On the exhaust manifold near the headpipe connection or on the headpipe near the exhaust manifold.AnswerThere are 4 oxygen sensors (o2 sensors)and they are all located on the exhaust coming from the motor under the vehicle by the catylac converters. AnswerO2 sensors are on the exaust manifold under the vehicle AnswerThere are 4 sensors, though not all of them are technically called "oxygen sensors. There are two that are upstream of the catalytic converters, one on each bank. Then, there are two more, one after each catalytic converter, that are oxygen sensors, but officially they are called catalyst monitors, because that is the job they are assigned to do.
To recap, the two before the cats (or upstream), are oxygen sensors, and the two after the cats (or downstream) are catalyst moniters. Although all 4 of them are oxygen sensors, their titles are different.AnswerThere are 2 locations: one in between the catalytic converter and the manifold, the other is after the catalytic converter. The number of sensors varies with the engine type. The 4.0L v6 OHV has one sensor in each location, the 4.0L v6 SOHC has two sensors on the manifold side. AnswerWell, with my 4.0L SOHC motor, there are FOUR O2 Sensors, two aft and two forward of the catalytic convertor. The two forward ones are rather hard to access, but the two aft ones (located just to the right of the transfer case) are somewhat easier. They almost look like a spark plug with a wire and a clip coming out the back. AnswerDepending on the year, Ford Explorers may have one, two, or four Oxygen sensors (O2S). Earlier models have only one upstream sensor in the common exhaust header. Later models either have one upstream and one downstream (past the catalytic converter), or two upstream and two downstream sensors. It should be noted that although all of the sensors signals are monitored, it is the upstream sensors that affect the PCM.
It is far easier to do this on a lift and with small hands.
Simply access the sensors from under the vehicle. Detach the wiring harness. Using the appropraite sized wrench, unscrew the sensor. Reverse the process to reinstall.
Hint: A small pointed tool may help reach the passenger side upper most sensor wire harness.AnswerThey are screwed into the exaust system at various points. Some people say that there are 4 oxygen sensors, but technically,that is not correct. Only the front 2 are considered oxygen sensors. They are screwed into the exaust pipe, one on each bank,after the exaust manifold, but before the catalytic converter. Sometimes they are screwed directly into the exaust manfold itself. The other 2 are actually called catalyst moniters. They are oxygen sensors, but they serve a different purpose. They moniter the activities of the catalytic converters, thus the name, catalyst moniters. They are screwed into the exaustone on each bank,after, or downstream, of the catalytic converters.
There is only 1 Oxygen (02) sensor on a 1991 vehicle. Beginning in 1996 (and some late 1995's), with the new OBDII system there were 2 sensors installed, 1 in front of the catalytic convertor and 1 behind the convertor.Replacing 1996 Explorer oxygen sensorsThe oxygen (O2) sensors are located in the exhaust system. There are three sensors, one in each of the exhaust headers near each of the front wheels and the third in the common exhaust pipe further back. A special deep socket is available from any parts store to remove the sensors. The socket has a slit down its length to accomodate the sensor wire permanently attached. Simply disconnect the bullet connector and unscrew the sensor.
A few words of advice: 1. Be very careful around a hot exhaust system; wait for the pipes to cool down a bit, 2. WEAR SAFETY GLASES; there is a lot of metal that flakes off the exhaust system every time you touch it, 3. The sensors are best reached from under the car; be sure to use jack stands to properly support the vehicle,Answerit is located on your exaust manifold under the vehicleIt's likely there will be one for each head on six's and eight's just before were the "Y" pipe meets the exhaust manifolds, another just before the catalytic converter and yet another after the converter.This doesn't mean you 4, but it's possible. AnswerAs I understand it, Bank 2 should indicate driver side, and sensor 1 should be the sensor closest to the front of the car, upstream of the catalytic converter. The safest way to find out for sure, is to find an honest Ford service technician and ask! Good luck AnswerHere is the oxygen sensor, and their location designations explained:They are screwed into the exaust system at various points. Some people say that there are 4 oxygen sensors, but technically,that is not correct. Only the front 2 are considered oxygen sensors. They are screwed into the exaust pipe, one on each bank,after the exaust manifold, but before the catalytic converter. Sometimes they are screwed directly into the exaust manfold itself. The other 2 are actually called catalyst moniters. They are oxygen sensors, but they serve a different purpose. They moniter the activities of the catalytic converters, thus the name, catalyst moniters. They are screwed into the exaustone on each bank,after, or downstream, of the catalytic converters. On a 4 cyl engine, there are only a total of two such sensors,the one in front of the catalytic convertor is the O2 sensor, the one behind the cat is the catalyst moniter. The location names for them are as follows: On a 4 cyl, the front is called "bank 1 sensor 1" and the rear sensor is called "bank 1, sensor 2." On a V6 or V8 engine, the passenger's side bank on a forward facing engine, or the bank closest to the firewall on a transverse mounted engine, is bank number 1, so the forward sensor on that bank would be "bank 1, sensor 1." The driver's side bank(forward mount engine), or front bank(transverse engine) would be bank number 2, thus the forward sensor on that bank would be "bank 2, sensor 1," and the rearmost sensor on that bank would be "bank 2, sensor 2." AnswerThere will be either 2 or 3 oxygen sensors. One sensor is in the header and one (or two) are "Post" catalytic converter. Most of the late model Ford V6 engines contain 3 sensors. These are screwed into the header and into you exaust pipe. This is a very easy and quick project. All of the sensors should be easy to locate. They stick out of you header and exaust pipe about 1.5 - 2 inchs. Just unscrew, unsnap from the wire harness and reverse this process with the new sensors. You should unconnect the battery during this process, this will also reset you check engine light. Goodluck.
Open the liftgate and remove the ( 2 ) screws at the top of the tail light
Carefully work the tail light straight back towards you because it's held in place by plastic pins >>>>>>>>>> and you don't want to break any of those
Look at the 8th " character " of the VIN
An " X " is the 4.0 liter EFI - V6 engine which is an overhead valve / pushrod design
An " E " is the 4.0 liter SOHC - V6 engine
Some do. The paint on the lower panel has a sort of blurry look to it.
Find out what car dealers don't want you to know at dealertricks
There is a short in the wires in the turn signal circuit.
The combination switch in the steering column is a good place to check. Do the hazard lights still flash?
The 4.0 liter OHV engine has ( 3 )
The 4.0 liter SOHC engine has ( 4 )
The front ( 2 ) oxygen sensors are used in the adjustment of the engine air / fuel ratio
You need to pull out the entire light from the out side it pulls out hard (has clips holding it in) found out the hard way. after unscrewing a few screws. On Certain models make sure to move to either the left or right (depending on what light) a little first
The engine is blown: bebuild or replace.
Anyone offering to "repair" your crankshaft is a scammer. Do not ever deal with them again. The only situation where a crankshaft can be repaired (in situ especially) is if there is a timing sensor on the end of the crank that has become dislodged, damaged, misaligned or otherwise prevents the engine computer from being able to pick up appropriate information. Bearings should not be replaced unless rebuilding the entire engine and a twisted or otherwise damaged crankshaft is JUNK and should be replaced. Therefore, repairing the crank is actually replacing it which REQUIRES an engine rebuild. The journal bearings on the crank need to be properly matched and possibly machined (the crank) to fit correctly without knocking and leading to a speedy demise of your newly built powerplant. Buy a new crankshaft, a rebuild kit and a video.You can rebuild an engine with the right tools (most of which you can borrow or rent) and some friends to help get the engine in and out. This is the most difficult part and with a little attention and patience, (and the friends) it can be done in a weekend not including any machining (which is generally not necessary when REPLACING the parts that are damaged.) Just replacing the engine is a job anyone can do with a hoist and ratchets, screwdrivers and friends.
Additionally, if you had an early vintage, extremely rare dusenberg or flathead V8 that was IRREPLACEABLE you might consider having a talented machine shop try to fix it, but on a '90s Nissan it simply is not worth it.
* Use the two rods located under the carpet behind the passenger rear seat and the jack crank handle located inside the hatch on the drivers side near the tailgate. * Open the rear door. At the top of the bumper (normally covered by the rear door) is a small hole. Insert the assembly into the hole until you have it engaged with the slot inside. * Crank counter clockwise until your spare is on the ground. * Remove the retainer from the center of the wheel by turning it sideways and pushing it through the center of the tire.
There are a number of possible reasons behind this, but the more common reason is that you a driving a older or higher mileage vehicle and the piston rings are wearing out. As the piston rings in an engine wear out, the seal that once formed between the pistn and the cylinder wall gradually opens allowing for oil to flow into cylinders which hits the spark plugs and eventually causes "blue smoke" in older vehicles because at that point your vehicle is actually burning oil.
Sounds like a Universal Joint to me.. That is the sound of the slop being taken up from the drive shaft. Once they start "klunking" you have maybe another couple hundred miles of use till they fail and your drive shaft falls to the ground while you are driving. If this happens you will need a new drivesfaft as it will destroy the U-joint knuckle.
This is a false error.Eliminate it by upgrading to SpyBot version 1.4 Beta2
Not sure this is a false error. I was helping a friend clean his PC last night, using Ad Aware and SpyBot S&D. Ad Aware found 1714 items and then SpyBot another 37. However SpyBot displayed a message 'Error caused by Z-Demon' near the end of the find problems run. 'Fix it' still worked and cleared all bar one item and Z-Demon, which were still there affter a reboot and rerun of SBS&D.
Pool ionizers do work. They use a very low level of copper and/ or other metals such as silver to kill bacteria and algae. The recommended copper level is less than half the National Sanitation Foundation 0.3-0.4ppm. for drinking water.
However, getting rid of large quantities of algae usually needs to be dealt with by shocking the pool with an oxidizer such as chlorine. Ionizers can't generate enough ions to clear a pool with lots of algae already in it. This is why it is recommended that the pool be shocked and the pH balanced to 7.2-7.6 before activating the ionizer.
40-50 years ago, swimming pools were plumbed with copper plumbing. The chemicals eventually decayed the plumbing, as did the velocity of the water and the corrosive effects of the chlorine (think what the chemicals are doing to your body, if it was deteriorating your pipes). This put traces of copper into the water. The copper would eventually cause a blue staining of the plaster, because there is an unregulated level of copper being introduced into the water and the chlorine oxidizing the copper causing it to drop out of solution. It also reacted with the blond hair of some bathers, to cause that "green hair" effect - that is oftentimes blamed on the chlorine (remember: yellow + blue = green)! This is usually caused by incorrectly shocking the pool. If you have an ionizer, it is recommended that only liquefied chlorine be used when shocking. Otherwise, it super-oxidizes the copper and it could drop out of solution causing staining.
Not only does copper kill algae, it also kills bacteria and viruses. This leaves you with just organic material which needs to be oxidized to clarify the pool. Usually ionizer owners shock the pool with about 1 quart of liquid chlorine (Clorox) per 10,000 gallons, once a week or if the pool gets cloudy, whichever is sooner. Or you can leave your pool chlorine dispenser set to deliver 0.5ppm at a constant rate. This practice is accepted by many public health localities throughout the United states. The copper (and actually all heavy metals) is an algaecide. It interrupts the plants ability to photosynthesize, thereby killing it. Additionally, more recent studies have shown copper is an excellent germicide and virucide it will be used in hospitals for surgical trays, countertops and even door knobs in the future.
As pools were eventually plumbed with plastic pipe, pool chemical companies started to manufacture liquid algaecides that contained heavy metals (primarily copper, nickle, and silver). Also in the solution, was a sequestering agent, sometimes also called a chelating agent. The purpose of this additive, was to keep the metals in solution in the presence of variations of high & low pH. Without these additives, in the presence of pH extremes, these metals would precipitate out of solution, staining the pool plaster.
So it goes without saying; reasonable pool maintenance must be incorporated in your pool activity, such as checking the pH, alkalinity, and the parts per million of copper in the pool (.03-.04ppm) on a weekly basis. These metals do not evaporate out of the pool, but are consumed by the algae, etc. and could to become concentrated if not checked. Another disadvantage of liquid algaecides, is that these additives eventually wear out, (actually they are consumed by the algae).
Since copper and /or silver are not subject to deterioration from the sun's ultraviolet rays, as is chlorine. The metal that is not consumed by the algae, bacteria and viruses remain in the pool as residual purifying agents. This gives you a very economical and low maintenance method to keep your pool clean.
Open the drivers door , and in the drivers end of the dash you will see a plastic
removable fuse panel cover . The fuses are behind the cover
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