RM-Conductor of Multiple stranded wires of circular cross section.

there are two fuse boxes on a matiz under bonnet right side of battery black plastic lid lift catch up on front and lift cover off. The relays are also in there the other fuse box is in car under dash behind bonnet pull hope this helps

Click on the link below

Click on Owner Guides

The owners manual ( which includes the fuse diagrams ) can be viewed online

No. There are no numbers on a coil.
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On the 4.0 L - V6 Ford engines the coil pack towers are numbered :
coil---3---4
pack--2---6
plug---1---5


I respectfully disagree - on a certain aspect of coils and numbering: there has to be numbering of some sort to distinguish one port from another. It may be true there are no numbers, in a literal sense, printed on the coil itself.


That leaves a person with having to distinguish #1 from 2, etc, in some other method.


That's what the 'text-drawing' above is trying to establish: there is a wire connection plug in 1 corner - from the point of beginning, count across the row of three ports, 1 -2 -3, and then the bottom row is 5 - 6 - 4 (yes, it is a fractured sequence).


For much more about firing orders, cylinder numbers, coils and getting the wires properly connected, check out the "Related Question" below.

While that question was written to the Windstar, the information is fully applicable to a great number of Ford / Mercury products out there today.

Make sure your fan switch has an 'off' position, as some vehicles have 'low, med, and high' while 'off' is actually on the position selector...which you have to select, in these cases, to shut the fan off. In most vehicles, air will travel through the heat/vent ducts into the vehicle while driving. The movement of the vehicle forces air inside this way, even if the fan is off. HOWEVER, the selector switch would most likely have to be in the 'heat' or 'floor' position in order for air to go to the floor. If your fan switch DOES have an off position, then it is likely your vents haven't closed off the outside air. The selector may have an 'off' position which will close the air inlet and block the air from entering the vehicle.

Sounds like you've got a kinked cable somewhere. Check them and if so, replace.

According to the 2003 Ford Explorer Sport Owner Guide :

With engine oil filter change :

The 4.0 liter SOHC , V6 engine takes :

( 4.7 litres / 5.0 U.S. quarts of 5W-30 )

Yep. When the wire is cold, the current flows from the battery to the starter very easily. As things get hot, the resistance in the wire becomes so great, and the current needed to crank the engine is so high, it just cannot push enough current to the starter until the wire cools down again.

That's the cause. I suggest you go explain it to someone at Pep Boys for the cure, because other than replacing the wire to the starter I have no cure for you. Maybe that IS the cure.

Phil

36 mm

You can visit the AIS at any age

If you are looking to join its best to get it touch with your state sports institute like WAIS or NSWIS. You are usually invited to join it is not your choice. At roughly 16 is when they start searching for new talent so any age past that

I'm no expert on the different kinds of lawnmower but... Test for spark by pulling plug lead, inserting a big nail where the plug would go and (holding the lead with two sticks so you don't get a nasty shock) hold the tip of the nail 1/8 inch away from the engine block as someone spins the engine. If you have a spark at the nail, you probably have a spark at the plug tip (although I have done this test and STILL found the plug was bad under compression). Do you have gas in it? Do you have an electrical safety cut-off switch on it that is in OFF position, like my generator? Do you have a gas line feed valve somewhere that was turned off after last fall's last use? Take the plug out and smell the plug hole...can you smell gas? If no, then it will never fire up. If yes, you may have cranked and cranked and cranked until it is too flooded to fire. Is the tip of the plug soaked with gas? Too much. Leave the plug out and let it dry out. If you have fire and you have fuel without flooding, you have a running engine, simple as that. CHanging the oil is good for the engine, but it has nothing to do with whether it starts or not.

The bulb is probably burned out. Try replacing the bulb for starters.

The fuse for the front windshield wipers should be located under the dash on the drivers side, in the fuse panel just in front of the door. Looking at my 1991 Subaru factory manual, I don't see a relay that is specific to the front windshield wipers. The back windshield wiper has a relay that is on top of the right rear wheel well, just behind the right rear speaker. Here's some help with diagnosing your windshield wiper issues... If the windshield wipers do not operate... A) in all positions: 1) Blown M/B or F/B fuse 2) Wiper switch 3) Wiper Motor 4) Wiper Link 5) Improper grounding 6) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections B) in INT position: 1) Wiper switch 2) Intermitent unit (built into wiper switch) 3) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections C) in Low or High positions: 1) Wiper switch 2) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections D) in Mist mode: 1) Wiper Switch 2) Open wiring harness or poor terminal connections

Your engine will run poorly, rough, lack power, etc. as if it isn't running on all cylinders (because it isn't). It may or may not start poorly, or at all. It will likely be burning more fuel than normal. One or more spark plugs may be blackened with dry, sooty deposits (indicating poor ignition). If spark tested, one or more spark plug leads may show weak or non-existent spark.

Engine diagnostic tools will often be able to point to a coil pack as being problematic, but often can't tell conclusively. They will often simply say that some cylinder or another is misfiring.

Note: Before assuming a bad coil pack, check your spark plugs and wires and replace them if they are either bad, quite old, or if their trustworthyness is questionable. Plugs and wires should be replaced in complete sets whenever possible.

Behind / below the glove compartment , inside the plastic box with the heater

core

Your Ford/Mercury dealer can get the code.

See "Related Questions" below for instructions on changing the lock cylinder

You can view the 1997 Ford Explorer owners manual online at :

www . motorcraft service . com ( no spaces )

Click on Owner Guides

( pages 223 and 224 show the axle fluid requirements )

Check fuel filter and fuel pump.

Behind the instrument cluster on the steering column.Not visible from below you have to rtemove the cluster entirely to even get to it.It is small and a black box.And no parts store stock it Order only item.Hope this helped.

check vac fittings on controller located under dash on pass side sometimes they fall down or people kick them with there feet

On the GM's that I am familiar with the fuse box is underneath the dashboard to the left of the brake pedal. It usually has a black cover with 2 finger-sized tabs. gently squeeze these toward each other (unless the cover says otherwise) and it should pull right off. If you have the owners manual it will also give you this information plus exactly here the fuse you are look for is, how many amps it is and what size it is. If you don't have the manual, some GM's abbreviate what the various fuses are for and what amps they are right on the fuse block.

is the engine oil low? maybe its flowing to the back of the sump and away from the pick up when you go up the steep hill.