Forget the pry bar, the socket, or whatever other tool you might have been told to use. Position the belt on every pulley except for the alternator belt. Pull the belt toward the front of the van (this pulls the tension pulley) and wrap it around the pulley on the alternator. It takes about 5 seconds and does not require a tool at all.

There are a few ways to move / pry the arm inwards, thus releasing the tension on the belt for removing/installing: grab on the pulley bolt (15mm?) with a wrench, or some later models have an opening for a 3/8th socket wrench to attach to directly without a socket.

"Screaming"/whining that goes up and down with engine speed is a key symptom of a bearing wearing out - one of which of course is the tensioner pulley bearing.

The serpentine belt tensioner / idler pulley is preset at the factory. If it is worn out, it will need to be replaced.

NOTES:

• The belt is recommended to be replaced around 60,000 miles
• There is a wear indicator (minimum vs maximum) on the face of the tensioner arm to let you definitively now when it's time to change the belt.

Answer

This is a very simple task. All you need is a pry-bar about 24" long that could reach as far as the idler (towards the passenger wall within the engine compartment). The idler is the one that maintains the tension for the serpentine belt during operation.

Next is to insert it on the back of the idler (note that there is a slot for it to go and lift down towards you. Your serpentine belt would become loose then your can remove the belt.

Note: Please remember how the belt was wound from component to component as this is very important.

Another option is to find a socket wrench mounted to a driver and same principle-apply a clockwise motion and the idler will be loosened.

Very important: DO NOT DO THIS WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, K...

Good luck.

• remember the two pulleys that don't have the grooves in them will be against the smooth side of the belt

The serpentine belt tensioner is spring loaded. It is the pulley located all the way back toward the firewall. Put a 15mm wrench on the bolt head in the middle of the pulley and leverage the tensioner to slack the belt and remove it.

if you're under the hood, look at all the pulleys. the big one in the back, that is the one you will need to get to. I am not well with the proper terms or even tools, however, when you go to tighten it, it will turn towards the front of the car. at that time, you can get the belt off. Remember the diagram of how it goes on, cause if you don't, none of your things will work. oh, buy a book also. it is faster than this forum.

You need to obtain a flat serpentine changing wrench. They come in a variety of qualities, but a cheapie will do ~10$. You hook that on the end of the sprung idler pulley and rotate against the spring pressure. the belt will loosen, pop it off, and put the new one on. The whole process will take under 10 minutes once the old belt is off. I considered cutting it off, but didn't need to with the wrench. Without the flat wrench, you will fight this for too long and likely not succeed.

I couldn't find a flat serpentine wrench (breaker bar) - the local stores used to carry them. What works just as well is a 15 mm box end wrench (the circular type that encloses a bolt), with a set of vise grip pliers for torque. The wrench is offset just enough to be able to place on the 15 mm bolt of the automatic belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the wrench clockwise (toward the front of the car) to release the pressure on the belt.

A small rope on the end of the 15MM wrench will hold the tensioner or a helper can pull on the rope.

I labored with this one for quite a while, searched the internet, and then someone at work told me the secret.

To remove the tension, take a box-end wrench and place it on the pulley bolt. Then use the wrench as a lever (like you are tightening the bolt) and pull toward you. The arm of the tensioner will come toward you (it rotates around the bolt which holds the tensioner on the engine). Remove the belt. If you want to remove the tensioner and/or pulley, loosen the pulley bolt while it is still on the engine (it is easier this way than when the tensioner is off the engine), then loosen and remove the tensioner bolt. Now you can replace the tensioner. You can also just replace the pulley if that is the problem and save about $25.

It took me four hours to replace the belt on my Windstar...

First, take several pictures of the left side of the engine, getting as much of the belt as possible. You'd be surprised how quickly you can forget how the belt is wound around the pulleys and alternator. I'm glad I did, because the guys at the parts house gave me the wrong pattern. I wasted an hour because of their mistake!!!!!

The belt runs around a tensioner arm located near the firewall toward the bottom of the engine (by the pass. side front tire). I'm not an auto mechanic, so I don't know the technical term. This is spring loaded and puts tension on the belt. Spray this arm with a boatload of WD 40 'cause you'll need it to move somewhat freely.

Take the old belt off and put the new belt on, starting at the flywheel and around the tensioner and all the other pulleys except the alternator which is at the top of the engine. Squeeze the belt at the tensioner, pull the belt towards you, creating some slack in the belt and try to wrap the belt around the alternator.

This is the best I could explain it. It's not that easy. You may be better off getting a new tensioner because the old one might be frozen up too bad.

Good Luck!

Purchase a serpentine belt wrench. They are a long flat looking wrench from a local auto store. There is a belt tensioner in the rear of the engine. Place the wrench on the tensioner pulley, and pull the wrench toward the front of the engine. This will loosen the belt. Install the belt around the crankshaft, and all other pulleys, excluding the alternator pulley. Hold the last bit of the belt in your hand, and then pull the tensioner toward the front of the engine again, and slip the belt onto the alternator pulley.

And for a 2002 Windstar (3.8L).

The tensioner pulley was at the back near the bottom. (If you look at a serpentine diagram, it would be at the bottom left.)

To release the tension, you have to get a 13mm wrench around the bolt in the center of the pulley and turn clockwise. Space is very tight (no room for a socket), so I recommend using a serpentine tool with attachable wrench heads. AutoZone loans them out for free (deposit required).

Actually, the info from the linked question was not correct for a 2002 Windstar (3.8L).

The tensioner pulley was at the back near the bottom. (If you look at a serpentine diagram, it would be at the bottom left.)

To release the tension, you have to get a 13mm wrench around the bolt in the center of the pulley and turn clockwise. Space is very tight (no room for a socket), so I recommend using a serpentine tool with attachable wrench heads. AutoZone loans them out for free (deposit required).

You will need a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. Look on top front of radiator you will see a winding diagram for replacing the belt also. The tension release pulley, located just below and in front of alternator, has a 1/2 slot in the center of pulley. Insert the 1/2 inch breaker bar in middle of tension pulley and pull up, tension will be released.

Reverse procedure to reinstall.- Darrell

To install:

Install the drive belt over all the pulleys, other than the drive belt tensioner.

Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise, using a 15mm socket or wrench, then install the belt over the drive belt tensioner pulley.

Make sure that all of the V-grooves make proper contact with the pulleys.

Well it's probably the same as the 1999 Windstar, so if it is: you need a 13mm key. It's better to have 2 people for this job: one underneath the vehicle with the key and one under the hood to remove the belt.

If I remember correctly you torque frontward and the belt will release . Hope it can help!

By the way, my van does not have the serpentine belt diagram sticker, so be sure to take a look if you have one, and if not, take a paper and mark the location of the belt through the different pulleys before removing the old one.

See "Related Questions" below for links to online sources of belt routing diagrams.

I have successfully changed my serpentine belt on my '96 Windstar. After fighting the tensioner nut my neighbor grabbed a pry bar and put it in the notch on the other side of the nut and belt it very easily moved the pulley down and relieved the tension and slipped the belt off. Leaving the bar in place and letting it pull backwards he rested the pry bar against the car while we put on a new belt. Pulling forward again and slipping the belt back over the alternator for the final touch. Forget the wrenches this was so simple I should sell the answer.

First, buy the correct belt, then look on the fan shroud which should give the route that the new belt should take. I'm my 95, it didn't, but the only thing I was doing was replacing the alternator, so I still knew how the belt went. Then release the belt tensioner nut, which is 18mm and hard to reach. Release this nut a few turns, then the tensioner will slide toward the side of the car, and the belt should fit on. To re-tension the belt I am considering buying a tensioner tool, which is a long handled lever for $35.00. If you need a diagram, email me.

First of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley.

Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner.

Note: A standard belt tensioner tool will not get the job done. Ford may have a special tensioner tool for the Ford Windstar, but I haven't found one. I used a non-angled 15mm 6pt box end wrench (longest one I could find) and used a section of galvanized pipe to slip over the wrench for leverage and was able to release the tension to change the belt.

Just replaced alternator on my 2002 Windstar. Found easiest way to loosen belt tension was by jacking up(and installing stands) front of van and having skinny son slide under. Could loosen tensioner for removal and re-installation with a **13mm**combination wrench and some grunting. Also, prior to loosening belt, I taped belt to all pulleys wherever I could reach them. That way the belt stayed in place.

My brother has a 1998 ford Windstar 6 cyl 3.8 engine. The drive belt tensioner broke. so He got a new replacement. He tried to put the serpentine belt ALL BY HIMSELF with no avail. just before he gave up. he call me. here is what we did: He installed the new drive belt tensioner using a 18 mm wrench without fully tighten the bolt. We routed the belt correctly (following the belt routing map under the hood). only leaving off the alternator pulley. now the only thing left was to put the alternator pulley. this was accomplished by us working simultaneously. while I grabbed the belt close to the tensioner and pulled it with all my strength toward the alternator to relief the tension ; my brother using both hands put the belt around the alternator pulley taking advantage of the loose belt. Once the belt was in place; He tightened the 18mm bolt fully. Mission accomplished.

**New Edit: Added to above - on a 1999 Windstar with 3.8L

I just did a similar method, but I just wrapped a small rag around the old belt and pulled towards me (front of van) until it was loose enough to pull the belt off the alternator. The I removed the belt from the rest which takes a little bit of twisting and using a flashlight to see where it may be hung up on. Then I put in the new belt around all pullies except the alternator at which time I had my wife come over and carefully place the belt while I pulled on it again.

*This ended up being about 20 minutes total time.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

New Edit

For my '98 Windstar 3.8 liter, the first issue is that the picture in the service manual pointed out the idler pulley as the Belt Tensioner; the BT is actually nearer the firewall. I loosened the bolt (18mm) that secures the BT to the engine and the BT pulley bolt(15mm) but was still unable to move the BT in any way.

I then put an ~8" loop of 1" webbing around the BT's arm, slid a crowbar thru it and using the top of the strut housing as a fulcrum, lifted the crowbar. The BT shifted and I was able to reach down with one hand and remove the belt from off the idler pulley.

First, note that there are significant differences between the 2002/3 and previous model years when it comes to the location of the belt tensioner and belt routing.

For 2002 3.8 engines, the belt tensioner is below the power steering pump, below the passenger compartment air intake duct. Unfortunately, this makes it almost impossible to access from above the vehicle. If you can raise the vehicle, you may be able to access the tensioner from below (see final note at bottom of this post).

Here's a procedure I've used:

1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2) Draw a diagram of the belt routing--I believe there are as many as 5 belt routings for various Windstar years and models.

3) With heavy gloves on, pull up and forward on the belt from the top of the engine (grasp the belt between the alternator and the power steering pump).

4) With the slack produced from #3, slip the belt off the small alternator pulley, taking care to not pinch your fingers while you're pulling on the belt.

5) Work the old belt off all pulleys and discard.

6) Route the new belt according to your diagram from #2 so that it is properly aligned on all pulleys, and riding in the grooved pulleys EXCEPT the alternator.

7) Now, again pull hard on the belt to compress the tensioner, and slip the belt over the alternator pulley. Again, be careful to not pinch you fingers.

8) Reconnect the negative battery cable.

9) Have an assistant crank the engine while you observe the belt travel. Make sure the belt is running fully engaged on all pulleys. If something amiss, you may have to repeat the proce

NOTE: The "official" way to release the belt tension is to rotate the tensioner about 110 degrees counter clockwise, and press a flexible metal leaf on its side into a holding slot. Doing this does away with the need to pull hard on the belt. On at least some pre-2002 Windstar models, this was rather easily done with a long screwdriver or pry bar because the tensioner and the front idler pulley were one unit. But on the 2002, Ford decided they should be 2, and moved the tension into an impossible-to-access from above location. On the 2002, you can't even get a socket on the tensioner pulley bolt to rotate it that way, because there's less than 1 inch of clearance between the bolt head and the vehicle frame. You'll have to decide if it's worth getting under the vehicle to save some pulling effort.

To replace a worn belt, locate the idler or generator pulley.

Loosen the hold-down fastener for the idler or generator pulley.

Pry the idler or generator pulley inward to release the belt tension and remove the belt.

Match the old belt up for size with the new replacement belt.

Observe the belt routing diagram in the engine compartment.

Install the new belt over each of the drive pulleys. Often the manufacturer recommends a sequence for feeding the belt around the pulleys.

Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt.

Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Install the belt squarely in the grooves of each pulley.

Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment. This is especially critical with serpentine belts. Measure the belt deflection in its longest span. If a belt tension gauge is available, use it and compare the tension to specifications.

If a belt is too tight, wear to bearings for the water pump, alternator, and engine crankshaft can result.

Some late-model Chrysler engines require a torque reading to be taken when tension is applied to the generator drive belt. This is especially important on the longer, multiribbed V-belts.

Pry the idler or generator pulley to adjust the belt to specifications.

Tighten the idler or generator pulley fastener.

Start the engine and check the belt for proper operation.

I just replaced the drive belt on my wife's 1998 windstar, Sunday evening(2/19/06), If you looking on the hood after it is raised you will find a diagrahm that shows how it goes on the pulleys. looking towqards the firewall, you will see a pulley on the top of the other pulleys. there is a place that you can put the end of a crowbar into. being careful to make sure that you have a firm hold with the crowbar, pull the crowbar back towards yourself. this will relieve tension on the automatic belt tensioner. make sure that you have the belt on all pulleys and finally, push the belt onto the idler pulley, it will be the small one that is smooth

Use a pair of medium sized slip joint pliers, upside-down and tilted slightly to the left, to pull back on the tensioner. You will get plenty of slack and keep all of your fingers.

An answer is found in the linked question

I have a 2002 Windstar, and in it there is a belt tensioner pully (which swings on an eccentric radius) that tightens the belts around the other pulleys on the front of the engine (not front of van due to transverse mount). This is accessed by elevating the vehicle passenger side near the front axle (like you would if removing the front right tire) and above the front axle near the top of the fender wall is this pulley. If looking at the engine under the hood, it would be near the fire wall down by the fender. Once located then use a 13mm wrench (box end preferably) to swing the tensioner pulley toward the front of the van. This will loosen the belt where it can be pulled off the pulley. Make sure you use place the wrench where adequate swing can be achieved. follow the pattern of the existing belt for the replacement of the new one. If the belt has come off, simply find a diagram, or go by the pulley grooves or flat to understand which side the belt goes. Mine was broken, so I had to do that. It was easier for me to start from the top under the hood but leave the alternator pulley as the last one to wrap over (I did this with help, as I had the pulley swung, someone else wrapped the belt over the alternator pully).

I hope this help...Be blessed in Christ ><>

blueletterBible.org

e-Sword.net

You need to use a socket wrench.

There's a square hole behind the tensioner (You need to get under the car) and get the socket wrench and fit the head into the square hole.

You will also need some hollow steel tubing to place over the wrench handle for use as a breaker. You will need this for leverage to get enough clearance to fit the new belt on.

2000 Ford Windstar - You'll need to put the car on jack stands or secure ramps. Find the tensioner by pointing a flashlight into the engine compartment just to the rear of the alternator pulley. Then slide unde the car next to the passenger side wheel. The bolt on the tensioner is 12mm. You'll need to use a box or open end wrench. Turn the wrench counterclockwise to take the tension off.

To replace a worn belt, locate the idler or generator pulley. Loosen the hold-down fastener for the idler or generator pulley. Pry the idler or generator pulley inward to release the belt tension and remove the belt. Match the old belt up for size with the new replacement belt. Observe the belt routing diagram in the engine compartment. Install the new belt over each of the drive pulleys. Often the manufacturer recommends a sequence for feeding the belt around the pulleys. Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Pry out the idler or generator pulley to put tension on the belt. Install the belt squarely in the grooves of each pulley. Before adjusting belt tension, check for proper pulley alignment. This is especially critical with serpentine belts. Measure the belt deflection in its longest span. If a belt tension gauge is available, use it and compare the tension to specifications. If a belt is too tight, wear to bearings for the water pump, alternator, and engine crankshaft can result. Some late-model Chrysler engines require a torque reading to be taken when tension is applied to the generator drive belt. This is especially important on the longer, multiribbed V-belts. Pry the idler or generator pulley to adjust the belt to specifications. Tighten the idler or generator pulley fastener. Start the engine and check the belt for proper operation.

Well it's probably the same as the 1999 Windstar, so if it is: you need a 13mm key. It's better to have 2 people for this job: one underneath the vehicle with the key and one under the hood to remove the belt. If I remember correctly you torque frontward and the belt will release . Hope it can help! By the way, my van does not have the serpentine belt diagram sticker, so be sure to take a look if you have one, and if not, take a paper and mark the location of the belt through the different pullies beforeremoving the old one.

Firing order and cylinder numbering - all 3.0 and 3.8 engines:

Firing order:

1-4-2-5-3-6

Cylinder numbering:

• Windshield side

  1--2--3

  4--5--6

  Frt. Of vehicle

Coil numbering:

• • --4 PIN--

    ----------------

    --1--- 2--- 3--

    ----------------

    --5--- 6--- 4--

    ----------------

• NOTE the irregular sequence on the 5-6-4 side. Weird, but that's the way it is.

Motor: in front from drivers side (battery) going left order is 6-5-4 in back from drivers side (battery) going left is 3-2-1

Coil bank: From front to back, driver side (battery) 3-2-1 From front to back, opposite side, passenger side, 4-6-5 <-- note the odd sequence.

The Owner's Manual says the gap is noted on a decal in the engine compartment.

The gap is also cited in the Owners Manual as .052-.056 (around page #261 for 2001)

If you have have large hands or arms there is only one way to get'r done. The three plugs in the front are self explanatory. They are just tight. Three in the back, now that's the whole problem isn't it.

The section that has the wipers on it has to come off. Take the wipers off. They unbolt and pull off. Next the black piece there are plastic screws. unscrew them and pull them out along with the little plastic sleeve they are in. pull off the washer fluid line. Using a small pry bar or clip tool carefully pry this piece off from around the windshield.

Pull this piece off. Next the metal part. This has your wipers bolted to the underneath side. Undo the electrical connection from the the wiper motor. There are several screws holding this piece on. Several on the sides and middle. Remove them all. DO NOT UNBOLT THE WIPER ASSEMBLY. The whole metal piece will come out with the motor attached still. (good time to replace the wiper motor if it is bad)

After this piece is removed you will see two box type things the one in the middle is the cabin filter the other toward the firewall goes inside the vehicle. Remove the one on the firewall to have complete access. Only two nuts holding this on.

Now you should be able to reach the plugs in the back. Replace the spark plug wire at this time also because it is the only way to see the coil that they all attach to. Assemble in reverse. Have fun. I did this just two weeks ago.

Not too easily. I managed it by removing as much of the clutter (such as air filter assembly, etc.) as I could and just reached around the back of the engine. I have long arms, so this might not work for everyone. It was difficult as well as a major knuckle skinning exercise - when I was finished it looked like I had knitted a sweater with barbed wire. I would classify this job as one that is worth paying someone to do if you can afford it.

I changed my spark plugs on my 1999 Windstar 3.8L , the easiest way I could find was to remove the wipers and the cover in front of the windshield then they're is another one underneath I remove this one as well , took me about 30 minutes to change them and put everything back the way it was .Hope it can help !

On my 95, I raised the car on ramps to change the # 3 plug, the one that is closest to the drivers side then I was able to reach around from above and get the #1 and # 2 plugs.

I pulled loose the wires from the coil for more room to reach behind the engine but didn't have to remove anything else. it is a long reach and my arm was kind of sore from the scrapping it took but I din't get ay broken skin doing it.

I have a 1996 Windstar and I put the front end on jack stands, so I could get underneath. Then from below, you can see the three plugs.

Changed it on my 99 Windstar today and it was not that bad. Raise the van up (preferably on the passenger side) and come from underneath. The one on the passenger side requires you to reach from the side, behind the wheel. The other two require you to reach through an area just above the transmission pan (yes there is enough room there).

I had this issue the other day. I evaluated the situation "too" much as usual, but was happy with my choice. Coming from the top by removing the panels on the cowl area was not that hard and there was adequate access to the plugs. Also you do not have to jack-up or crawl and work under the van (biggest bonus!).

The front ones are pretty obvious and straight forward. It's the back 3 of course that are the 'pain'...

Because I have long arms, I was able to reach around the backside and more or less do the plugs by feel.

Many others here have suggested coming in from underneath the vehicle to get at the back 3. If I hadn't already done mine, I would try it for sure!

There are 6 plugs. Three will be on the front of the engine and three toward the rear of the engine. (If you are standing at the frnt of the van) Look between the radiator and the engine block. It is a ways down. You will see three plug wires. One for each plug. The rear plugs will be in the same place except in the rear part of the engine.

You need to raise the vehicle, then access the plugs from beneath, working around the exhaust. Not an easy task, but can be done. Or, you can take it to a reputable mechanic, and have them do the job.

To Remove:

1. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of its routing.
2. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from the coil pack.
3. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil pack by squeezing the locking tabs and twisting while pulling upward.

To install:

1. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the old wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new set.
2. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielectric grease and install the wire on the coil pack. Make sure the wire snaps into place.
3. Route the wire in the exact path as the original and connect the wire to the spark plug.
4. Repeat the process for each remaining wire, working from the longest wire to the shortest.

I understand that one can lift the vehicle on ramps, crawl underneath and gain access to the spark plugs, you might have to feel for the plugs use your rachet to loosen and place back the new plugs (NGK plugs have a 0.054 inch gap for 1998 Windstar models) . Or if you prefer you can come from the top after removing the air filter housing and some additional components such as the black cowl cover for the windshield wipers. Hope this can get you started. Thanks

1 at a time!

Simply remove each end of the old wire, and disconnect from the holders between the ignition coil pack and the spark plug.

Re-install the new wire following the same path, and insert into the wire holders.

NOTE: Do this 1 wire at a time to ensure the firing order is not changed!!

If you reach around on the left side you can feel the plugs. You can take some of the cowl off but it is of little help. Not easy but you can do it with a little time...

Added 01/02/09:

I just finished the job earlier in the week. If you have access to a hoist, I am told you can feel for them from underneath. I looked at doing that from under the van and decided I would rather go from above.

If you wish to remove them from above, as quoted above, remove the windshield wipers, the plastic cowl skirt, and then the plastic cowl itself. This will allow you to "hug" the engine to feel the three plugs, but it is not a pleasant job, nor a speedy one. In hindsight, I think it would have been worth paying someone with a hoist to change them from underneath. It took me almost 1-1/2 hours start-to-finish, including multiple scratches, one minor burn, and a few choice words for the engineers who decided this was "OK".

U have to take of the cowl cover under the windshield, wipers off. I think the coil pack is to right of the engine on that model. I found it easier to change the them from the top of the van. I jacked it up and found less room to work with from under the car. Even from the top its a tight squeeze.

You pay someone to do it! LOL seriously unless you are mr gadget it is not worth it to do it yourself. there are two ways. take off the cowl ans use a spark plug wrench with a flexible attachment and get really frustrated or put it up on a lift and then it becomes a little less difficult. I did this once. (and I am very mechanically inclined) i have paid the 200 bucks to have it done since then

Take the panel that holds the windsield wiper motor, just below the windshield off. It only has about four bolts and once removed there is room to get to the back three plugs fairly easy.

Actually the rear spark plugs are not that bad to get to once you know how. I have a 98 3.8L and replaced the plugs myself. It will take about an hour and a half to to though. It should be the same for the 96 as well. First you have to remove the antenna and the wiper blades. Then remove the screws holding down the plastic panel covering the back part of the engine compartment. Under that you will find more screws holding down the panel that holds the wiper motor. Unplug the wiper motor and remove that panel. Once removed you have lots of room to access the plugs at the back. I used an old blanket and placed it over the intake plenum to make it a little softer for my knees and had no problem to replace the plugs. If you are handy with tools I am sure you can save yourself lots of money this way rather than over an hour of shop wages in a garage.

you can either jack your van up, supporting it on jack stands & blocking the rear wheels,and using some extentions, universals & socket & socketwrench. you can get to them from the bottom. Or you could remove the wiper arms & cowl and get to the spark plugs from the top. brewski

Put your car up on ramps and then you can get them from under. Make sure the car is cool and then you have no problem. I just did mine on a 1997 windstar.

Another way -which is what I had to do with my 98windstar gl.--is to remove the front cowl where the wipers are. This was a whole lot easier for me than messing with jacks and the sort..

Good Luck!

I have a 2000 SE with the 3.8 Liter engine. It is a real pain getting to the rear plugs, but I found that I had to remove the throttle body and air bellows to get your right hand around back on the right (as you are looking at it from the front bumper) side. There is already barely enough room on the other side for your left arm. First thing to do is use compressed air to clean out the plug wells. You will have to lay over the front hood latch area and you can get each arm around the engine to work blind. You can fit a mirror there to help locate things, but you will be working blind for the most part. Getting the boots off is a little painfull, but feel with one hand to locate each boot and twist and pull with the other. For the plugs, I used a 3/8" breaker bar for best control and a short extension to the plug socket. There is room back there to swing the handle as needed and the breaker bar provides a little more torque with less effort. It is handy to have either a little handle on the extension or a stubby ratchet to get the plug out by hand once you have broken the torque. The first time, it took me a couple of hours to get to them for inspection, but the next day, I was able to replace them in about 1/2 hour. It ain't pretty, but you basically have to lay over the hood latch and engine to reach around there to work. Fortunately, the plugs are platinum and can last 100K miles so you should only have to do them once or twice.

Good luck with it. Chuck the driveway mechanic.

A better alternative is to remove the two-piece cowl below the windshield. You will have to remove the wiper arms, but you will have much more room to work.

++ added info ++

Removing the cowling and wiper mechanism is a must. The wiper is attached to the cowl, the washer hose has to be disconnected. A small puller gets the arms off the mechanism posts. Also some of the vacuum hosing can be removed, instead of damaging it as you yank and pull on wires. If replacing the plugs at 100,000+ miles, why not do the wires at the same time. For all the trouble, its good preventative maintenance. Take care to note the order they assemble on the coils and match their lengths. Use silicon on boots at the plugs and at the coils too.

you will have to remove the piece that goes from fender to fender with the wipers on it. it's not as hard as it looks. also a good time to add brake fluid.

First of all, the engine HAS to be COLD (overnight) so park it where you'll be working on it. Then, either remove the cowl (plastic part just below the windshield), then the entire windshield wiper assembly (again, whole plastic piece now visible once the plastic cowl piece has been removed). Now you can gain access to the rear plugs/wires, etc. If you want to go further, remove the upper intake, but unless you really know what you're doing, don't attempt this. Get ready to get really dirty and you have to use the "feel" method and plenty of time and patience; it's a b!t@h...The reason the enigne HAS to be cold overnight is due to the aluminum cylinder heads which will strip if the engine is hot (besides burning yourself). The best thing to do is first spray penetrating lubricant around each spark plug, then blow out the holes; then break loose each plug, more penetrating fluid and more blowing out, then remove the plugs. Prior to installation and after gapping each plug, put a light coating of oil on the threads and DON'T OVER-TIGHTEN them. Hand install first, making sure they go in easily; if not, clean the head threads and start again. The plugs should "bottom" out by hand, then just give them a firm tightening with the spark plug socket (using a 3/8" drive ratchet). You shouldn't have to give it more than 1/4 turn MAXIMUM after plug bottoms against the head. That should do it! Good luck!

-Andrew (Ford mechanic for 35 years)

The front spark plugs are fairly easy to get to, just be careful in pulling the boots off of them if you are not replacing them, because you could pull the metal snap end off. Make sure the engine is cool and grab as low as you can on the end of the plug wire attached to the plug. The back ones are fairly easy to get to also providing that you get them from underneath the van. There is a section between the block and the firewall that allows you to get to them. The best thing to use here is a 6" extension with a universal joint (wobbler) on the end of it, as to allow you to get into some tuff spots. Good luck!

I have a 2000 SE with the 3.8 Liter engine. It is a real pain getting to the rear plugs, but I found that I had to remove the throttle body and air bellows to get your right hand around back on the right (as you are looking at it from the front bumper) side. There is already barely enough room on the other side for your left arm. First thing to do is use compressed air to clean out the plug wells. You will have to lay over the front hood latch area and you can get each arm around the engine to work blind. You can fit a mirror there to help locate things, but you will be working blind for the most part. Getting the boots off is a little painfull, but feel with one hand to locate each boot and twist and pull with the other. For the plugs, I used a 3/8" breaker bar for best control and a short extension to the plug socket. There is room back there to swing the handle as needed and the breaker bar provides a little more torque with less effort. It is handy to have either a little handle on the extension or a stubby ratchet to get the plug out by hand once you have broken the torque. The first time, it took me a couple of hours to get to them for inspection, but the next day, I was able to replace them in about 1/2 hour. It ain't pretty, but you basically have to lay over the hood latch and engine to reach around there to work. Fortunately, the plugs are platinum and can last 100K miles so you should only have to do them once or twice. Good luck with it. Chuck the driveway mechanic. A better alternative is to remove the two-piece cowl below the windshield. You will have to remove the wiper arms, but you will have much more room to work. ++ added info ++ Removing the cowling and wiper mechanism is a must. The wiper is attached to the cowl, the washer hose has to be disconnected. A small puller gets the arms off the mechanism posts. Also some of the vacuum hosing can be removed, instead of damaging it as you yank and pull on wires. If replacing the plugs at 100,000+ miles, why not do the wires at the same time. For all the trouble, its good preventative maintenance. Take care to note the order they assemble on the coils and match their lengths. Use silicon on boots at the plugs and at the coils too.

1996 Ford Wind star 3.0 Motor

Changing 3 Rear plugs best way and same way i do mine. Is from the top of the engine carefully reach around intake from passenger side you can reach all 3 plugs in this position, carefully break loose plug may have to put extension in there first and then carefully bring your ratchet down in there, break loose take ratchet off and Finnish unscrewing the plug do this one by one and it makes everything allot quicker that's non-sense taking off the Cowl panel that is a pain in the butt.. took me a total of 30 minutes to change all plugs, gap, wires etc.. easy..

I've changed these on my Moms van, because the dealership wanted to charge her $450.00. I can understand its a good bit of work but really $450 that's ridiculous.

1. Thoroughly spray the door switches (on each door) with:

• Cleaning spray - clear the sludge out of the mechanism - electronic contact cleaner, carb, brake, etc
• Air, canned or even better, from a compressor
• Spray lubricant - a dry lube (best), silicone spray, WD-40 or similar

2. Open and close each door several times to work the lube into the mechanism

This is usually sufficient to clean the electrical & plunger mechanism inside the door switch.

If this doesn't work, you could remove the door panel and do the spray treatment from the inside also.

If this doesn't work, the switch may have to come out for repair (see below), or replacement.

Lubing the latches sometimes helps, but when the curls are big enough you can use a whole can of WD-40 and it isn't going to help.

Get out some needle nose pliers and a sharp utility knife. Cut and peel away the curls. You might need a magnifying glass to see them.

This has worked on both doors (driver's side usually goes first). My In-Law Taurus Station Wagon had the exact same thing happen. Looks like Ford used the same bad latch hook design.

Now I will explain the way to fix these sending units. I will be using the rear lift gate as my example.

1. Remove the trim panel from the rear gate.
2. Using a t25 torx bit remove each complete latch assembly from both sides of the lift gate. There are 3 of these screws per side. I take one off at a time so as not to stick wrong one on wrong side.. however it really isn't that complicated if you pull both.
3. Once you have them out you will see an electric sending unit on each latch with a 2 wire connector, remove that. Then if you look closely at where the sending unit slides into the latch.. you will see a plastic backing that has the words "tab" stamped into it. Now... very carefully slide a small screwdriver under where it says "tab" and apply a little pressure upwards, not too much or it will break. While you have the pressure applied rotate the sending unit clockwise so it unlocks and slide the sender out of the latch assembly.

   Now if you want to never have the door bother you again... throw these in the trash and put everything back together and you're done.

   HOWEVER if you want to do it right.. take the sending unit and either replace it with a new one for each latch or use some quality carb or parts cleaner to clean the heck out of them.

   You will see a small metal sliding switch, when this switch gets stuck IN it causes the door chime and lights to stay on. So clean it will it moves easily on its own. A few drops or lubricant will help AFTER it is cleaned.

After you have them moving freely just put everything back together. I myself also use carb or parts cleaner on the complete latch as well till its totally clean of all old grease then I spray on some new white lithium grease before putting everything back together.

Spraying the latch with WD40 will sometimes work, however in the long run it will only last a while. The issue is the sending units are sludged up and the more wd40 and such you spray on the more dust and stuff it will collect... making it sludgy and sticky again.

• Another symptom of a persistent door ajar situation is the interior lights will no longer work. Fix the false reading and the lights will start working properly again.
• sounds like you have a door jam switch gone bad. In most cars this is easy to replace, just unscrew old, unplug, plug in new, screw back in. The ford part number is SW5195.
• Some vehicles have a sensitive switch that controls the dash lights IF the switch is set 2 almost FULL on OR DOME light on THE light will flicker-sometimes.

I have this problem every 6 months or so...here is another tip: On the rear door....open it, but lift it only about 1 foot or so. I say this, because that is the angle that the lube seems to need to hit the switch just right....then use the WD 40 or similar penetrating lube and spray the heck out of the latches.....get the red tube into the tiny crevices and gaps around the latches on all doors and into the hidden switches that are connected to them. Do this on each side of the rear liftgate door as well as front and sliding door.

I think I now know how to solve this problem. The rear door or 'back lift gate' as it has been called, has two latching mechanisms, one on each side of the door. These are positioned from the inside of the door itself. At the very bottom of this latch is a small spring loaded micro switch that senses if the latch is open or closed. The switch gets dirty and then won't allow the pin to travel to the fully protruding position which should indicate the door is closed.

I found this out by going to a vehicle junk yard and removing the latches from the back door of a scrap vehicle. I was able to disassemble the switches but the latches were on my work bench when I did it. I'm not sure how hard it will be to remove the switch while the latch is in place because I haven't actually replaced the non-working ones in my van yet. You need a screwdriver to pry up a tab which keeps the switch from rotating 90 degrees. Once the switch is rotated, it drops out of the latch.

clean the little square plates at the top of the rear hatch with rubbing alcohol

my 98 has small black plastic box sensors on side and rear door that senses when door is open they are about 1 inch square i sprayed these lightly with wd 40 and moved them to and fro with my fingers to free em up no more unlocking or dinging or lights

The sensors for the rear hatch on the 2003 Windstar are on the latching mechanisms inside the hatch. I sprayed mine with WD-40 today and it worked like a charm. I accessed them by removing the plastic panel from inside the hatch.

In hind-sight, I think that spraying the mechanism from the exterior would have been adequate.

So, I took a blow-dryer (hairdryer) and pointed it in the latch holes of the rear hatch door (right inside the door) and just in case, at the lower spring latch.

After a few minutes, the light went out--without shutting the latch!

It went back on briefly when I shut it-- then went off and stayed off.

Don't know if this is a permanent fix--but it did work.

• an old fashioned pencil eraser effectively cleans the surface tarnish off the contacts. It's an old computer technician's trick and best of all, it works!
• household cleaner - wipe them down with some wd-40.

  This is just a temporary fix, and needs to be done about every 4 weeks.

• fine sand paper, steel wool,

When moving the sensor plate on the door jam it may be necessary to take a jig saw and cut the square hole a little wider in order for the plate to fit back on the door jam properly. Use sheet metal screws to reattach the sensor plate.

You have to remove the door panel to gain access to the door latch assembly and it is located on the lower side of the latch. You'll find two connectors one for the lock actuator and one lower for the door ajar switch.

Loosen the latch and twist the door latch out and you'll here it pop and come out.

reverse process to install

I've had this same problem with my 2003 Winstar. The problem is the contacts on the sliding doors. The dealer cleaned the contacts and the problem was resolved for about a month. You have to keep cleaning these contacts regularly or what I did was turn off the dome lights. This problem can kill your battery so I always keep the dome lights off.

Answer

Had same problem i checked all doors and the sliding door was the cause fix it by crossing the black wires of the sensor no more chiming or light on

Usually this is a sticking or faulty door switch on the tailgate. It affects multiple years of the Windstar. Typically the only solution is to replace the switch. There is one switch attached to each side of the tailgate door.

• Check coolant level
• Heater core may be plugged or restricted
• Heater core may be air bound
• Thermostat may not be operating properly
• Water pump may not be circulating coolant

I have a 2001 Windstar which had the same problem. At first when you adjusted the temperature selector you could hear a slight thumping noise coming from the temperature selector. I dismantled everything to get to where the noise came from. After hours of messing around, this is what I found. In front of the housing for the heater and air conditioning, right behind the radio, there is a white plastic module about the size of a pack of cigarettes. It is mounted with 3 screws I believe. This unit has a wiring harness on it that has to be unplugged for removal. It also has an D shape actuator about 1 1/2 inches long protruding from the back side that fits into a damper for the heater core. This unit has a circuit board and motor that rotate the actuator, which in turn opens and closes the damper allowing the air to pass through the heater core. What happens is that the motor drives a couple of plastic gears that strip and do longer drive the actuator. I believe the unit is called a heater damper module, dealer item only. In my neck of the woods it's about $75

When removing radio it is MUCH easier to buy "radio removal tool" from Autozone, about $2

I have a 2001 Windstar with the same problem (thumping behind the dash,no heat)I was able to remove the module without taking out the radio by removing the bottom trim under the heater controls and reaching up behind the radio.. An 8mm socket did the trick. The name of the module is a "blend door actuator" I was able to pop it open and sure enough one of the little plastic gears was stripped.

The answers I found on this site saved me some $$ and time. So I thought I would add my 2 cents worth. Situation:1999 Windstar, thumping under dash, no front heat, rear heat worked fine. Per above, I removed lower trim piece and found the actuator, took it apart and found same stripped gears. Ordered part # 655-1552 from Napa "Heat and AC Actuator" for $44.77. Works perfectly now!

I have a 2000 Windstar with this problem. My husband removed the trim under the controls & replaced the blend door actuator. Problem solved. THANK YOU so much to all those responses above. You saved us tons of money & TIME! I will use this site more for advice.

October 29th, 2008- We also have a 2000 Windstar with the same no heat problem. I took our van to a trusted local mechanic and he agreed the blend door was in fact broken. Being a hands-on guy with a need to know more before I spent ~$800 for the repair I found this site. THANK YOU THANK YOU!! The information about the Heat and AC Actuator was correct and easy to replace. I got the replacement part from Advance Auto parts for $48 and a lifetime warranty to boot. Thanks again

November 5, 2008: Last week, we started seeing the same problems described (cold air only, faint clicking sound when changing the desired temperature on the controls) in our 2000 Ford Windstar. I was able to access the blend door actuator (easily identifiable ... white plastic, size of a pack of cards, three screws) by removing the lower plastic panel. This is the plastic panel that is on the floor and includes the small compartment that opens to store sunglasses, etc. (not the black trim surrounding the radio or temperature controls. I had to remove four plastic screws and anchors (two on each side by the drivers legs and the passengers legs). I had to disconnect the passenger side cigarette lighter to remove the panel completely from the car. Once unscrewed and lighter disconnected, I just pulled hard until the two friction clips gave way. In this way I did not have to remove the stereo. With hindsight, I might buy the stereo removal tools next time as removing and replacing the blend door actuator from below requires that I lie upside down on the seats with my head on the floor ... doable but awkward. Hint: while accessing the part from below is awkward, simply opening the cup holder/ash tray did wonders to make the part more accessible. Once I had removed the old blend door actuator, I opened it to see that the plastic gears had in fact stripped. I went to two auto parts stores and was unable to find a suitable replacement. Napa Auto Parts could have ordered one of the parts I read about above but he said it may not be the exact same part. He recommended I go to the nearby Dealer. The dealer did have the part (he keeps several in stock). It cost me about $70. He warned me that the gears may have stripped because an object may have fallen in the vent and could be blocking the blend door. If that is the case, replacing the part will only result in another broken blend door actuator. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to investigate this so I simply used a screw driver to rotate the blend door manually until I was satisfied that it had the proper range of motion. I replaced the blend door actuator (again, upside down on the passenger seat with my head on the floor) and the heater now works perfectly.

Blend Door Problem

Your problem sounds like the common blend door problem on the Ford Expeditions, and Ford Explorer. The door is on a vertical axis and when it breaks, it can swing back and forth randomly giving heat or AC or nothing. The difference on acceleration is the force placed on the door swinging it one direction.

You can check the operation by fully opening the glove box, removing the actuator motor on top of the plenum box and examining the blend door axle. Pictures of the common fail signature are available on the heatertreater.net web site. There are several "free" fixes that mostly are worth what you pay for them. The solution on the web site is solid and proven over hundreds of vehicles and will resolve the problem once and for all.

The "Related Question" below is an extensive discussion on the 1999-2003 temperature control valve / heater control valve.

It is likely the information will be similar to the 1997 / 1998 Windstar

This happened to my 95 Windstar-I just replaces the fuse for the air mixture door.

On my 1999 Ford Windstar, the blend door itself broke. This repair is more costly and more difficult, perhaps $700 to $1000 to replace. I just tied a shoestring to my blend door.

When you insert the blend door actuator if there is no slot for it the door is broken and you are up sh... creak. Hope it is the former.

Another option is from a company called HeaterTreater - a method to repair a broken blend door without removing the dash. I haven't tried it, but the ideas behind it seem to make sense - and they have lots of videos showing the processes.

http://www.heatertreater.net/Windstar%20Listing.HTML

CHECK THIS LINK http://www.automotiveforums.com/t524247.HTML

April 11, 2009: Your diagnosis was spot on! I removed the lower plastic panel (4 screws, unhook cig lighter), pulled out the ashtray/cup holder, and access wasn't too bad. Got a new actuator at Advance Auto ($46) and the whole job took about an hour. Thanks from Bay City, Michigan!

Ditto

I won't get into too much detail.

This forum saved me a few hundred bucks. How you determine its the heater actuator versus a stuck thermostat is simple. Most Windstars ( I have an 02) have 2 zones. The front zone will only blow cold air, but switch to the rear and turn on heat. If hot air flows, your thermostat is good.

If you hear a clicking sound behind the radio, it's your actuator and it's probably defective.

I ask my son in law to repair it ( he tinkers with cars all day ) and he repaired it 45 minutes.

CR, NJ

The part you are looking for is a blend motor. It is made of plastic . The gears teeth are broken or missing. This part moves a flap from normal cold air to the heated air. Only get heat when blend motor is engaged.

I just repaired this problem on my 2001 Windstar. The problem is usually the damper motor which is located behind the radio. The motor has a plastic gear inside and it wears out. If you know what you are doing it takes 30 minutes max to replace the motor. If this is your first attempt, plan on an hour. Go to a auto parts store and purchase the Ford radio removal kit, $5. Place the prongs into the holes on the radio until you feel them engage, no more than an inch and a half. Pull both wire hoops towards the doors and then pull the radio out. Once you have disconnected the radio, you will see a flat plastic unit about 3 x 4 inches. Remove the screws, I think there are three of them, using an 8mm socket with extensions. and one is not the same size as the other two, and pull the motor out, be careful not to break the stem. Remove slowly Get the replacement part from your favorite rip-off Ford dealer parts store. Usually about $70 bucks. I found that by calling around, I saved 10 bucks. Now do the reverse and you are good to go. I had the job quoted to me for $270 bucks so the 30 minutes spent is well worth it.. I hope this helped. edit.......I got the part for $48 at advanced auto parts. I had to plug the electric back up to the new actuator to get the"D" shaped peg to line up with the "D" shaped hole. The peg turned to exactly where it needed to go once plugged to electric. Took about 90 minutes to change out.

I am glad I can actually help someone else for once! It is your blend door actuator. It gets stuck between heat and cool and it breaks. That's what makes the clicking sound. I had to replace mine on my 2000 windstar and it was really easy, about 20 minutes to fix. It goes right behind your stereo and the part was only like $20 online. Just do a search for how to fix a blend door actuator and there are step by step instructions on a few different websites. I ! my 1999 winstar was doing this and it was the blend door

I HAVE A 97 BLAZER THAT HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. FIRST I CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT (NOT WHAT FINALLY FIXED THE PROBLEM BUT IT DID HELP IN THE LONG RUN)ONLY A $12.00 PART AND 30 MINUTES WORK. WHAT FINALLY FIXED THE PROBLEM WAS TO FLUSH OUT THE HEATER CORE. THERE SHOULD BE 2 HOSES GOING TO THE HEATER CORE THROUGH THE FIRE WALL ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. I TOOK EACH HOSE OFF AT THE BLOCK AND FLUSHED THE HEATER CORE THROUGH THOSE HOSES. I FLUSHED IT BOTH DIRECTIONS AND THE AMOUNT OF DEBRIS THAT CAME OUT WAS UNBELIEVABLE. BUT THEN I HAD FULL HEAT AGAIN. .

the water pump might be going bad and not circulating as good as it should,i had that happen to an older Buick of mine. i replaced the water pump and it worked like new

That is the mix door actuator trying to move the door, it may be stuck or you might have a vacuum leak coming from the engine. The actuator may be bad as well. Feel the heater hoses in engine compartment if one is hot and other cool try flushing heater core. there is a actuator that moves the temperature blend door,the door that controls hot to cold.the gears in the motor are plastic.is it makes a clicking noise after you turn the heater on ,it broke answer a flapping sound is usually caused by a leaf or other matter falling down thru vents pull fan cover off and clean debis out, mostdoors are are controlled by cable or vacuum,not gears.as you didnt say a clicking sound i doubt very much it has anything to do with motor or gears It's the blend door on the HVAC box. It's what controls what temp air comes through the vents.

have the heater core cehecked out

I found this site when it got to the low 40's in southwest Florida last night and discovered I had no heat in my 2003 Windstar. I picked the part up at NAPA and installed it in less than 30 minutes. The only improvement I will add is to connect the electrical connector to the new part prior to installing it. Start the car and set the temp control to cold. This will position the actuator arm in the proper position to slide in easily. Shut the car off after this step, before finishing the installation.

This site saved me a bunch of money. The Ford garage wanted almost $100 for the part and said it would take 4 hours to install and not to attempt it myself. Thankfully they did not have the part in stock!

12-21-2009

2000 Ford Windstar SEL: Problem: Clicking sound behind radio and no front heat.

Solution: Replace "Blend Door Actuator."

Follow the instructions listed above but pay attention to the following:

I would just like to add that if u do this yourself make sure that u use the radio removal tool that u can buy at any auto parts store. And even though I had that I still had a hell of a time getting the retaining clips to disengage and release the radio. It took about 30-40 mins. Once I removed the radio I found out why (And this wasn't explained in the instructions that came with the tool). When u insert the u shaped tool in the 2 holes on each side of the radio, make sure to insert them about one to 1/2 inches and then pull each tool towards the right and left doors (respectively) of the van b4 u pull it out towards you. If u don't u won't disengage the retaining clips which hold the radio in place in the dash. I kept pulling towards me and that was futile b-cuz the clips were still locked in place.

Once I had the radio removed I had no trouble removing & replacing the blend door actuator motor. If this is the factory motor that u are replacing, then finding it will be easy because it's housing is an off white color and it is mounted to the black plastic duct work behind where the radio used to be b4 u removed it. It is held in place by 3 small bolts. Plan on using a long ratchet extension (I coupled 2 together) because it is a long reach to the heads of the bolts.

If the heating/cooling system is blowing cold air, make sure u hook up the electrical connector to the new part and set the front temp. control lever to full cold. This will facilitate placement of the shaft of the replacement part to line up with the "D" hole in the blend door control shaft. This is the part that pivots and moves the door to open, close or somewhere in between depending on where the temp. control lever is positioned. Total time to replace: 90 mins.

December,11,2010 Houston tx,grait tip I had the same problem with my windstar 2000 no heat blowing from the vents and a thumping noise and it really works did't take more than 40 min to raplace and get the part I got it from advance autoparts the part number is#604-203 the name is (air door actuator)this is how they have it named, like it help me

Here is how I changed my power window motor and regulator with pictures:

(clickable "Related Link" below)

http://sites.Google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home

Sidebar: Let's hear a round of applause for D0gB0one! If you benefit from his how-to guide, recommend him and add a note to this page's Discussion.

Autozone has motors alone $45-75, regulator plus motor combinations are $70

All are remanufactured units

1995-1998 Windstar - Engine compartment fusebox / distribution center: fuse letter "G"

1999-2003 Windstar - fuse #'s 106 (passenger side) and 113 (drivers side) in the ENGINE COMPARTMENT fusebox control the power window motors.

The above information was referenced in the respective OWNERS MANUAL.

See "Related Questions" below for more

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

***I tried the above tapping the motor suggestion (what did I have to lose--didn't think it could be so simple) and THANK YOU VERY MUCH! It worked for my 2001 Windstar.****

***Ditto!! I tried the tapping on the motor solution and the motor sprang to life! This just saved me anywhere from $70 for motor alone to $150+ to have the motor replaced. Thanks again!!!!!

****Double ditto! The hammer tap worked the trick. Thank you for the very good advice

I just replaced the LF window motor / regulator on our 2001 Windstar.

Here are the basic steps it took me to get the new motor / regulator assembly installed.

NOTE: The window doesn't have to come out for this repair.

Remove inside door panel -

1. remove plastic corner piece - it snaps out, a clip and tab hold it in place.
2. remove lock stem.
3. remove plastic fascia piece around door handle, it also snaps out, single clip and tab.
4. remove 5 panel screws (7mm), 2 at base, 2 in arm rest, and 1 in upper corner, where the corner piece was.

   The door panel can now be lifted off some plastic molded hooks that hold it on the frame.

   1. there are 3 wiring quick disconnects that need disconnecting from window/lock switches on the arm rest
   2. The courtesy light needs to be rotated out from the panel as well.
5. As you work the panel loose from the door:
6. Remove the foam from door frame.
7. You should also remove the speaker - the hole it vacates is useful for working on the regulator / assembly replacement

Now, the regulator is held in place by 4 rivets and threaded stem & nut and 2 tabs. With the panel and foam removed, you can easily see them. It is also attached by rivets to the window in 2 places at the bottom of the window. And, it is attached to a guide bar across the large opening in the frame.

The guide bar needs to be removed first. Remove the 2 nuts (11mm) that attach it to the frame and it can be worked off the regulator assembly and out of the opening.

Then, The rivets need to be drilled out, the 4 in the door frame and the 2 holding the window to the regulator assembly., the window rivets can be a pita - I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel. Before starting the rivet removals, I used duct tape to hold the window up in place. But once the guide bar, 4 frame rivets, and stem nut are removed, the whole thing, window and all can be moved up/down in the door frame - and need to be to get at the rivets that attach the window to the regulator assembly. Move the window to a place so that you can get to the attaching rivets, you'll obviously have to loosen the tape to do so but then tape it where it works for getting at the window rivets (the pita part of this job).

Once the window rivets are removed, the regulator assembly can be removed through the large opening in the frame. New one goes in as old came out. Attach window to it - I used nuts/bolts, short enough to ensure there wouldn't be any interference. Not too tight, need the bushings to move as window goes up/down. Now - the new regulator assembly i got was slightly different in that the threaded stem was about 1/2" forward of the old one - so the hole the stem goes through had to be opened up toward the front of the van about 1/2" (turned it into a slot). With some time, a few choice words, and patience, the stem and tabs can be put in place in the frame and the new regulator assembly reattached to the frame. Again, I used nuts/bolts and couldn't replace the 2 inner rivets because of space constraints. I figured that the tabs, stem and 2 that I could replace could do the job of holding it in place.

Then, replace things as they came off. Don't for get the courtesy light and quick connects!

I've had to replace both assemblies and I was informed of a shortcut (after my first replacement job) that allows the replacement without having to remove the rivets...

once you have the door cover and foam removed look for two small divets/dents located in the area of the four rivets. Once you locate them drill them out with at least a 1/2" drill bit. Right behind the new holes are the two nuts holding the regulator in place. remove the two nuts and remove the regulator then reverse the procedure to put the new regulator in place.

Removing the door panel is the easy part. A redesign of the regulator means that a new motor will not fit on the old original 2001 regulator. Not only are the mounting holes different but so is the electrical connector. You could perhaps find an old motor at the junk yard but it will most likely fail just like the original design. There are six rivets. Two hold the window to the regulator and four hold the regulator to the door. The new regulator requires you enlarge one of the mounting holes. The difficult part for me was the window being riveted to the regulator. I did not want to drill out the rivets on the window and did not have a rivet gun that could handle a 1/4" rivet. Most homeowner rivet guns are for 3/16" and smaller rivets. The door rivets can be replaced with short 1/4" bolts. After many hours and hassles with wrong parts I opted to take the vehicle to an auto glass business and gave them a new regulator/motor assembly ($87 from Ford). Depending on how nice the glass people are it is still cheaper than having Ford do it. If you have the correct tools and rivets plus don't mind working with the glass it can be done at home.

I just removed mine by drilling 1/2" holes in the metal door over the two 5/16" nuts that hold the gear assembly to the regulator(there were dimples in the door above each nut). That allowed me to remove those two nuts. Then the third fastener was a bolt that projected through the door, which could be removed with a 5/32" socket on the torx type bolt head.Once those three nuts were removed the gear assembly fell away from the regulator without having to touch the glass or remove the regulator.

First you remove the back window corner panel. It pulls right off. Then you pop off the black cover from around the handle. There is a screw on the top holding the panel on , remove screw and remove the screws at the bottom of the panel and lift off panel. Roll plastic down. Drill out the 3 rivets holding the motor in place and remove bolts to swing motor to opening. Install in reverse order .Bolt new motor in place. Be careful with spring inside door can cut you use gloves, and watch out for window track, it locks into place.

Remove the door panel first,and the inside cover you'l see three pilote holes drill these out with a 1/2 inch bit this will expose the three small bolts holding the motor remove them with a small ratchet unplug the motor and replace.

To check the motor remove the door trim panel, disconnect electrical connector at motor, using a test light put one end of light into one side of connector and other end into other side of connector, (install light in place of motor), activate window up/down switch, if light illuminates change the motor, if not you have a wiring problem.

I am having the same problem as you are with my 95 Windstar but my windows work intermitantly. First thing I would do is check the fuses. There are separate fuses for driver and passenger windows. If this isn't the problem then I would check the relays for the windows. They might be sticking or something. You can buy new ones from NAPA for about $7 each.

I personally try the cheap approach first. If this isn't the answer, then get a tester and see if you have power to the window motor. If you do have power when the door switch is activated, then you have a bad motor. I would then recommend that a dealer replace because glass breaks easily.

Also Try this!!!

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Make sure the motor is in fact bad... Many times they just stop working because the armature brushes hang up and will not make contact with the motor armature. Sometimes you can slam the car door and this will jar the brushes and they will make contact with the armature. If this doesn't work you will need to remove the door panel and reach inside the door where the window motor is located and tap the electric motor with a small hammer or some other suitable object. While you are tapping the motor have someone hold the window switch in a functioning position, either up or down depending on the position of your window. I have done this many many times and hopefully it will work for you and you will not have to replace the motor. Good luck

Remove the door trim panel. Pull off plastic cover. Unplug the regulator. Position glass by hand until you can remove rivets from door glass. Tilt glass and lift out. Drill out all the rivets holding the regulator in. Remove regulator. Install new regulator. Rivet new regulator. Reinstall glass. Rivet glass to regulator. Plug in regulator.

I have a 1995 Windstar and the passenger power window kept getting stuck and wouldn't come down for weeks at a time,then it would work. I pulled off the door panel there are 1 or 2 screws by the arm rest you need to unscrew,then pull off the electrical connector for the power mirror,locks and window.first check if you have power to the switch with a test light,if yes then switch looks ok,then pull off the connector to the power motor ,put the window switch back together.if test light goes on at the connector when you press the power window switch,power is making it to the motor.To remove the motor you have to drill out the rivets that hold the motor to the door,remove the connector then to replace you have to drill out the rivet holes to a larger size cause you have to replace them with bolts to put the nw motor in. BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE OLD MOTOR try hitting the old motor with a hammer not very hard to damage but give it a good hit,because some times the gears bind and that's why the power window doesn't work even when you have power to the motor. It's a pain in the @#$# to change that motor,the the hammer first. I chg the motor then afterward found out the motor was still good. The gears were binding that's why the window would work sometimes and sometimes not. See "Related Questions" below for more

TAke it to a garage and have them do a wet and dry compression test on it and listen for unusual noises.

Worked for me on 1999 Windstar, Thanks!

Just want to say thanks to all for posting the detailed instructions! I generally limit repairs to things I can do with a can of spray lube and an adjustable wrench. What I feared might blow my whole Sunday afternoon was done in under an hour to reinstall ( i.e. after I determined it was the motor, and had the partl). Wife was totally impressed!

$61 US for full motor-regulator assembly at Advanced Auto in Arlington, VA.

I followed the written and the images shown at

http://sites.google.com/site/powerwindowregulator/home.

Thanks for taking the time to add detail

Excellent suggestion to NOT remove the channel connected to the window, but rather bend the small metal stops and sliding the nylon rollers out. With this method, you'll need to do the same to remove the channel from the new regulator / motor before installing. This is basically a good 'dry run' for what you need to do for the existing channel inside the door.

I had some trouble sliding the existing nylon rollers out of the window channel because there was a small screw from the nylon clamp holding the window. A slight pry with a screwdriver got it past. The replacement nylon slides are much narrower (perhaps for this reason) and insert easily without hitting this screw.

Duct tape was also a great idea. My window was stuck in the up position. During the install, I needed to lower to about ½ way down get the new motor to line up with the holes and everything put together and tested. Duct tape made this easy to adjust and avoided the need to have a 3rd hand, which was not readily available.

• front, passenger side
• on top of the radiator housing
• On the passenger side shock tower
• On the bottom side of the hood - look up
• on the plastic panel above the radiator. There should be other information such as type of spark plug and gap and type of AC refrigerant and etc., there too.

See "Related Links" below

I had this exact problem yesterday. It was an '02 model also. Not a single diagram anywhere. I went to the local auto parts store and had them make a copy for me. You could also go to a dealership service department and if you ask real nice they will copy one from their book.

I went to Autozone and got a diagram.

Autozone.com also has the Chiltons Repair Guide for free - includes the serpentine belt routing & much much more.

I found that it is only tight one way. Just remember the two pulleys that don't have the grooves in them will be against the smooth side of the belt. It was a real bear , but we got er done.

having trouble stretchiing it over the idler pully,

but if you look around under your hood- you will

see a pully/ belt diagram on a white label. Mine is

right about over my head if I'm leaning over

to look at the idler pully.

See "Related Questions" below for complete coverage of where to find these diagrams.

The temperature blend door actuator is the component that moves a flapper type door inside the dash that adjusts the amount of cold outside air that is mixed in with air that passes over the heater core.

It is a common issue with Windstars to fail, but is also a very straight-forward, do-it-yourself repair.

I priced this job at a dealer and it came in for around $300!

This is a really simple repair, a great choice for the do-it-yourselfer.

Here are the steps/procedures for doing this repair yourself in about 30 minutes:

• Tools to do the job:
  • Ford radio removal tools
  • 5/16 nut-driver
  • Flashlight
  • Small hands or band-aids

• Remove the radio -
  • Insert the U-shaped 'handles' into the vertical pair of holes on each side of the front of the radio until you feel it hit an indent / click .
  • With both tools inserted, push outward on the top of the tools while pulling the radio out & away from the dash.
  • Disconnect the 2 wire harness connectors & the antenna.

• (Optional) Remove A/C & Radio control dash panel

• Removing the A/C & Radio control dash panel gives you additional access to the actuator to help with removal and installation. This is not a difficult option.

• Loosen and remove two screws revealed just above radio when radio was removed.

• Loosen and remove two screws inside (one on each side) the drink holder & ash tray drawer.

• Gently pull the loosened section of the dash panel forward.

• Do not remove connectors for A/C control panel. You'll need the A/C control panel active to align the driver post of the actuator with the blend door drive hole.

• You might want a helper to hold the panel off to the right while you work.

• Reassembly is exactly reverse.

• Remove / replace the blend door actuator -
  • Looking in through the radio opening, locate the actuator module - a white plastic unit about the size of a pack of cigarettes.
  • Use the nut-driver to remove the three 5/16ths mounting screws.
  • Disconnect the wiring harness located on the side
  • Reverse steps to re-install
  • In order to line up the shaft I had to crank the car and move the temp selector. Note: You do not have to turn on the A/C system for the temp selector to control the actuator, but you must have the actuator control cable re-connected.

• Reassemble the dash panel.

• Reinstall the radio (watch that no cables bind during the reinstallation.

• What the actuator is / does:

• Inside this unit is a circuit board, motor and small plastic round gears. The gears then rotate the actuator, which in turn opens and closes the damper allowing the air to pass through the heater core.

• What happens is some of the little teeth break off creating a gap on the gear wheel. This gap prevents the gears from driving the actuator shaft.

• The unit may be known as a heater damper module by the dealer. Should cost around $60-$75. (One reader acquired the actuator for $34 from O'Reilly.)

• This unit was purchased from Advanced Auto for $ 45 and the flat rate is .4 hours. I did mine in around thirty minutes with the hardest part being getting the radio out ( it seemed stuck ).

Removing stuck radio

Additional information added 10-Jan-2009 by Elliott Wolin:

The instructions above worked well for me except that the radio was stuck; the removal tool did not work on the left side. The problem was that the internal metal locking tabs on the left side of the radio partially broke. I had to remove the panels below the steering column and reach in and depress what was left of the locking tab mechanism from the left side with a shorty flat-head screwdriver. Then I inserted a thin rod into the hole in the front of the radio to keep the depressed tab in place, first the top one, then the bottom. This was not particularly easy.

I have a 1999 Windstar and took out the radio and it was right behind it, it is simple to do. If you can turn on the heater but only cold air comes out you should check the blend door. It controls the door to switch from cold air to hot. It sits directly behind the heater/AC controls. It is white square plastic piece (approx 3in x 5in half inch thick and has a plastic screw rod that attaches to the heater/AC controls and they strip out. Hope this helps.

This is an easy repair and most anyone with any sense of mechanics can accomplish it in less than an hour. Part is cheap at autoZone, and is not difficult at all. Pay attention to the placement of the temp control switches as they will make a difference in lining up the right place to install.

There is a small electric motor located under the dash about center. It cost about $40.00 It is sort of a flat rectangle shape with a set of wire's that plug into the side. The gear in side the motor is plastic and strips out causing a door inside the air duct to open about half way then fall back closed, it sounds like someone beating a plastic drum. Turn it on while under the dash and you should be able to locate it. It drove me crazy for a week!!!

I was getting a loud knocking on cold and a light and sometimes no knock on hot, but no heat was coming out. The above fix was right on, I used a cut and bent coat hanger in place of the proper tool to remove radio, and the dash trim had to come off as the radio bracket impedes the lower bolts on actuator. I unclipped wire retainers for heater/AC controls from radio bracket and the dash panel will almost sit on floor. My nut driver would not grab top bolt, instead I needed my u-joint and ratchet. Before completely removing actuator, rotate it manually to see if the blend door opens and closes (as opposed to being broken which is a much costlier fix) Total time for me was 45 minutes and a scraped knuckle.

that noise you are hearing is the blender motor, It is located behind the radio

dealer item only, about 160.00. It makes your blower go from defrost to floor

kind of hard to get to, there are three bolts that hold it on

The whole thing took about two hours. It is a very easy repair and I definitely would do it myself if I were you. The part number is: XF2Z19E616FB

I think it cost me $55 with tax and they had it in stock.

If you have a 1999 or newer then I think the layout is the same as mine.

The first thing you need to do is remove the stereo. You will need a special Ford tool for this. You can buy them at the dealership, WalMart or any auto parts store for around $5. These are a couple of 'U' Shaped pieces of metal that slide into the stereo holes. It will snap into place and you push them to the outside and slide the stereo out. Real easy. Now unplug the antenna and other cables and put the stereo somewhere.

Now you will need a socket set. I don't remember the size but it is pretty small. There are two screws at the top of the HVAC control panel. You should be able to see them after you remove the stereo. There are two more screws at the bottom of the HVAC control panel. I think you have to slide out the cup holder to get to them.

Once all of the screws are out you should be able to slid the HVAC control panel out. There are a bunch of wires and vacuum lines so just be gentle. If the wires are long enough, they were in mine, you should be able to slide it out and just put the whole thing off to one side. I didn't have to disconnect anything. But you can if you want.

Now you should be able to see the black plastic duct work. On that there will be a small off-white plastic module, like others have said it is about the size of a pack of cigarettes. That is the actuator. You will need a socket again and there are three screws. Take out the screws and the module should slide out. There is a power connector to the module, make sure you unplug it.

If you want to make sure the module is the problem then you can leave it plugged in. Turn on the car and move the blend door lever. The one that goes from hot to cold. That should move the shaft coming out of the module. If it moves one way and doesn't stop it is broken. If it doesn't move it is broken.

I think if this is your problem then you should pry open the old module, pull out the shaft and slide it into the hole on the duct. Then move the shaft back and forth to make sure that the door is not jammed before you put the new actuator in. I did this cause I didn't want to put the new one in and have it jammed and burn out the new actuator. I would advice that you use a flat-head screw driver to (gently) pry the a/c control and radio console trim loose. Just a slight bit of force at about the mid point on each side should do the trick. Also, watch out for the clips on the wiring harness inserts behind the radio. They break easily. =D (This is a Ford we're talking about)

I just wanted to add, you find actuators online for pretty cheap. Anytime you lose heat or A/C and think it is related to the climate control or an actuator motor, it is also possible that your blend door has failed, not only the actuator. It is very common with Ford Windstars. In order to access the blend doors you have to pull the dash and extract the plenum box. There is also a method popping up online where you can replace the blend door by removing the glovebox and making an incision in the plenum box. I did this when I installed a heatertreater, I have also disassembled and re-assembled the dash a number of times. The method of going through the glovebox saves a ton of labor and time, but I would not recommend attempting it without specific instructions or a mechanic that has performed this fix. See related links for more info.

1995/98 (may also apply to 1999-2003?)

You will need metric wrenches and sockets from 10mm up to 20mm.

• Park van with front tires turned to the left. Jack right front of van, remove right tire. Place blocks under frame on right side in line with right wheel.
• Open hood, drain fluid into container by opening petcock on bottom right side (as you are facing front of van) of radiator. This is on the inside and is held in the radiator by a piece of plastic inside of the radiator, so don't try to pull it all the way out. Open radiator cap to allow air in.
• Unhook battery.
• Remove alternator and lay it to the right between engine and radiator.
• Drop serpentine belt out of the way. The way it is installed is shown on the underside of the hood. If not, draw it out before removing.
• Remove small rubber belt wheel that is forward and below alternator.
• Remove L shaped steel support that alternator bolts to.
• Unbolt electronic ignition that sits atop steel tube coming out of water pump. Will have to unscrew A/C tube support piece attached to it.
• You may have to remove plug wires, if so, be sure and write down their installation order first.
• Remove front engine mount nut on passenger side close to bumper.
• Remove back engine mount nut on passenger side behind right front wheel.
• Remove engine mount nut on drivers side just in front on left wheel drive shaft.
• Un-clip radiator hose from bottom of radiator.
• Un-clip radiator hoses from steel tube on top of water pump.
• Remove the two bolts holding steel tube in place.
• Remove steel tube, being careful with it as they are not made anymore and cost over $100 if one can be found.

  DO NOT Lift with weight on the OIL PAN

  See section below for WARNINGS

• Place wood support under oil pan between frame members. Remove wood from under right frame. Lower jack until engine mounts are about 3 inches off the frame. Make sure you do not lower too much and allow plastic parts in engine to be crushed. You now have enough room to remove the water pump. Place wood back under right frame until flush, just to be safe. The bottom tube is still manufactured if you need to replace it but will cost about $50.
• If you intend to replace the serpentine belt, take it with you as it seems all the aftermarket places list a belt a bit too small. The one Ford sells is the correct size.

That's it. Take your time and it will take a weekend to do.

Just a safety note: NEVER ever jack up any vehicle by the oil pan no matter what you place between the jack and the oil pan... The concentrated weight of the vehicle on the relatively thin metal of the oil pan would allow the head of the jack to easily penetrate right through the oil pan. Aside from the expensive damage this would do to the oil pan, it would also allow the vehicle to fall on you WHEN (not if) the jack punctures the oil pan.

Always place the jack under the center of the front or rear axle beams on front wheel drive vehicles, or under the front axle beam or the rear differential on a rear wheel drive vehicle.

Also, always make sure that any vehicle that you are working under is securely supported by jackstands that are placed under the recommended jacking points for your vehicle. Never rely on a jack as the only means of supporting the vehicle's weight.

See the Autozone online repair guide for both generations (1995-98 and 1999-2003) of Windstars.

One of the most helpful bits of information from the repair guides are the diagrams showing the various bolt sizes and locations. So easy to mess up when putting the short vs long ones back in.

NOTE: Autozone now requires free registration to access the repair guides. More than worth the extra effort for these photo/illustrated instructions.

I recently changed my water pump (but it was on a '95 Windstar...should be similar). After removing all bolts on the pump (remove flywheel first, then you can reach the other bolts), I had to unbolt the motor mounts (underneath van) and jack it up about 4-6 inches before the old pump would clear to be removed. Place a wooden block between jack and oil pan when jacking.

Get a manual from discountautorepairmanuals.com It is not an easy job.

A2: This is a difficult job. Only for skilled mechanics who don't mind bleeding a bit. Also the timing cover gasket should be replaced at the same time and that is for mechanics who don't mind bleeding a lot. Trust me I know. :) MGL

First thing you should know is that alot of the Windstar models require one to remove the engine mounting bolt and raise engine a couple inches so that the water pump can be removed from where it sits. Remove the belt. Unbolt the pump housing. I think there is like 6-9 bolts holding it in. Remove it. Clean the previously old gaskit material off. Install new pump. Not a simple job!!!

With the 3.0 Liter engine the following procedure works well.

Removal: 1. Drain Coolant. 2. Remove Coolant tank from Passenger fender well. 3. Loosen but do not remove the 4 14mm bolts on the Water Pump pulley prior to removing the serpentine belt. 4. Remove the serpentine belt using a long 15mm box end wrench on the tensioner to remove tension from the belt. 5. Remove the alternator 6. Remove the Tensioner pulley 7. Remove the Water Pump pulley (since you already loosened the bolts) 8. Remove all bolts 10mm, 8mm, and 13mm making a diagram with the locations of all bolts. Also remove all braces; there should be at least two. Keep in mind that not all 8mm bolts are visible from above. 9. Remove Water pump, if it sticks tap with a rubber mallet do not pry it loose. 10. Using a putty knife remove all traces of the old gasket until you see bare metal.

Installation: 1. Install new water pump with new gasket and torque all bolts to proper specs. 2. Reinstall Tensioner Pulley, Alternator, and Water Pump pulley. 3. Refer to diagram either on hood or over radiator as to belt installation. 4. Reinstall serpentine belt over all but alternator pulley. 5. Using long 15mm box end wrench, pull tensioner toward front of vehicle and slip loosened belt over alternator pulley. Release tension. 6. Reinstall Coolant Tank and refill with Coolant. 7. Start engine and, keeping a close eye on the temperature gage, idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Check for leaks if there are none you are done.

With the 3.8 Liter engine:

Take it to a shop and give them your left arm and left leg as well as first-born child and they may fix it for you. Or they may just laugh.

Water Pump Replacement 99 Windstar 3.9 L This is a ridiculously difficult job for for the average home mechanic. I'm an experienced mechanic and I was surprised at the difficulty of it. The two motor mounts on the passenger side must be removed (just remove the nuts from the bottom) and the engine jacked up and pulled forward slightly being very careful not to break any plastic. It might would be easier if another engine mount was removed as well. The upper pipe is difficult to remove and their is a good chance you will damage that pipe. It looks like that pipe/hose would be difficult to change as well. The lower pipe is usually very rusty and very close to leaking, I recommend replacing it. Removal of the alternator and alternator bracket is very easy and gives much more room to work with. I recommend that this job be given to a garage unless you have a lot of time and patience and a good helper. (make sure that the leak is the water pump and not the rear head gasket. You can see the rear head gasket fairly well from underneath the passenger side finder well once the tire is removed. if the gasket leaks here, it may appear to be the water pump leaking. found out the hard way.)

I replaced my water pump on a 2000 3.8 engine as others did. But it wasn't even my problem. My problem was I had too pin holes in the two tubes on top of the water pump. I had to remove the intake which wasn't too hard & the wiper cowl stuff. the pipe is under the intake, the other tube was on top of the water pump, ya have to remove a bolt behind the power steering to get the top tube out. It does wiggle out after a minute of rocking it back & forth the new water pump will come with 2 new O rings one for there & one for the lower radiator hose pipe. I patched it up with jb weld & let it set for a day to cure before I tried it out. ALSO when I took off the intake I scrapped off the oil crud on it & the van runs so much better like new. More power & even idle !!! So if your van spark knocks alittle & has runs a little ruff clean your intake with a razor blade, put a rag down so the crude doesn't go into the engine more.

A good auto parts store will scan codes for free. However, do you research on other forums to learn what each code could 'really' mean. Most the time it's a vacuum leak. Don't let them sell you expensive sensors before researching the codes.

Problem with emission control system - have vehicle scanned to determine the problem

There are 2 basic steps to determining the cause of the CEL coming on:

1. Have the codes read - many places offer to read the engine codes for free. Autozone even provides a printout of the codes, and a short description of common causes

2. Research those codes! Find out the true cause and reason for the not-normal reading. It is not often that the sensor itself is bad and requires replacing.

There are countless sources of information on engine DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) on the internet - including WikiAnswers!

My real-life examples:

DTC code P0402 on 98 Tracer - replaced the EGR valve, light came back. Made my daughter live with it for 2 years. Yesterday I had a few minutes while waiting for the oil to drain and poked around the engine - found a small 2" piece of rubber hose that had softened and collapsed right where the PCV connects. A free piece of hose from Autozone and the light cleared after a few drive cycles!

Major auto parts chain told me my TSP (Throttle position sensor) was bad due to the CEL being lit up (might have been a P1120 DTC). $40 and 10 minutes to replace - ((_#*&$ light came right back. A few days ago, after doing some reading, I bought a $4 can of throttle body spray cleaner - used 1/2 the can on my 98 Sable - voila! CEL is gone again!

*DTC codes P0171 and P0174 - O2 sensors reported lean fuel conditions on bank 1 & 2 on my 2001 Windstar. Some research later found out the 1999-2003 Windstar 3.8l engines had a known problem and Ford issued a technical service bulletin (TSB) describing exactly how to fix it. Instead of wasting $80 replacing perfectly good 02 sensors, I used that money to buy the parts for the repair.

I have added untold miles to the life of my engine, and kicked up my MPG for real savings!

Pay attention to those check engine lights - they're there for a reason. And with the internet today, you can readily find the information to keep your car healthy, and even save some $$ in the process.

the engine light monitors computer sensors and functions, not vital things like temp. oil pressure etc. when that light is on, there will be a code stored in the computers memory. Most auto supply stores can access and read the codes for you, which will tell you what to look for. your particular vehicle is bad about setting a code for being too lean, probably the intake leaking vacuum

You can either take the vehicle to a shop and have the mechanic connect a code reader to your vehicle

OR

you can take your vehicle to your local auto parts retailer and borrow, rent or buy a code reader that will tell you what's wrong.

Whichever you decide, you won't be able to guess what's wrong, and nobody can help you unless and until you connect the vehicle to a code scanner.

Often it's something relatively simple even though it may be a bit expensive. Oxygen sensors for example can be pricey and you should replace both sides at the same time. On the other hand it can sometimes be as simple as a loose gas cap. The code scanner is a great help and if you intend to do much of your own work it's good to have your own scanner. Scanners can be purchased for as low as $30

GOOD LUCK DRIVE SAFE

mk1505 added 1/6/08

On 1998 and 99 windstars a flashing MIL (check engine light) means that the computer has detected one or more misfiring cylinders. You will need to connect an OBDII compliant scanner to the datalink port under the dash on the drivers side to scan the computers trouble codes and determine which cylinders are misfiring.

Disconnect the NEGITIVE Battery Cable and leve it unplugged for 30 seconds, plug it back up - and it will go out

it means your On Board Diagnostic System has detected a problem. there are hundreds of codes it can tell you, each one means something else. If you have a local autozone, go there and they can tell you what the code you are throwing means.

It could be an engine sensor picking up something wrong, or an oxygen sensor before and after the engine. The transmission is another item, that might have a problem and cause the engine light to pop on.

PCV Valve locations:

• 1995-1998 3.0l - front valve cover
  
  
• 1996-1998 3.8l - rear valve cover
  
  
• 1999-2003 3.8l - front valve cover

INSTALL: Simply pull on the hose to release the valve from the valve cover - pull the valve out of the hose. Insert new valve and push back into valve cover.

NOTES:

• The valve is in the end of 1/2" or so size hose inserted into a rubber grommet in the top of the valve cover
  
  
• If the valve checkball rattles, it's working
  
  
• Recommended replace interval - 40,000 miles
  
  
• The 'other' large tube going into the opposite valve cover is a breather tube

it should be on the valve pan cover with a hose running to air filter duct or MAF(mass air flow) the PCV recycles the blowback exhaust back into the engine .

The PVC valve is on the rear valve cover closer to the driver side of the car. It's easier to see and get to if you pull off the air cleaner housing which is a hassle but once you get it out of the way, you can get to the PVC valve easier. The problem is getting enough leverage to pull it loose from the connector which has a rigid pipe leading to it. It's a snug fit and you have to be able to get a good grip to pull the old one out of the hose. It's fairly easy to pull it loose from the valve cover.

There might be small difference in details but here is how to remove the door panel on Windstar 1999. These instructions apply for the drivers door particularly:

Remove three screws that hold the panel. Two at the bottom and one in the right corner. This one has a triangle plastic cover that comes off easily by just pulling it out.

Remove also two screws that are in deep holes under the plastic handle.

Remove the plastic cover that is around/behind the manual latch that opens the door from inside.

Pop up the switches/buttons holder for power windows and lock/unlock then disconnect all the connectors.

Use a pry tool or a flat screw driver to separate the panel from the door on the lower side.

Hold the panel firmly and lift it up until releases from the door.

The foam gasket under the panel may stay stuck on the door but you can remove it easily.

When replacing the panel back don't forget to place the stub (stick) for manual locking the door from inside first before you put the panel back and slide it down.

Once you understand the process it's very easy to do it.

2. Pop out the component around the door handle (this comes straight out, you may have to pull the door handle into the "open door" position to remove the component).

The next step is to remove the power window/auto door lock control panel: Be CAREFUL on this. The front part pops straight up, however the rear does NOT come straight up. Once you lift the front up you must slide the unit forward while lifting the front up ( there are two plastic extensions that are curved, these two projections hold the rear of the panel down).

you will find a Phillips screw exposed once you remove the control panel. Remove screw.

You must also remove the screw that is located at the bottom of the door panel. Rear of door panel (to your right on the passenger side)

The panel is now held on by only PLASTIC hook-like projections from the door panel into holes in the door frame. if you break these you will be cursing at yourself.

the panel must be lifted straight up (about an inch)to unhook the plastic hooks. Once you lifted the panel straight up you should be able to completely remove it. Be Aware of the electrical wires leading to the window/lock panel. Good luck!!

It's only a $11 part at the dealer though.

BTW, you gotta drill out the rivets that hold in the guide. You can use bolts & nuts to replace it (Pan heads work best)

Take out the screws in the bottom of the panel. Takes out the screw in the handle pull - then take out the plastic insert around the handle area. Then pull the plastic behind the mirror. After that pull up on the whole panel and it will come off. One of the easiest that I have done.

1. remove the retainer screw from the door handle cover and remove.

2. remove the screw from the bottom left corner of the door panel.

3. pull the door panel away from the door, starting at the bottom. Lift up and off the door.

Once the panel is off, it is easy to replace bad speakers or inspect / repair door lock linkage.

• First gently pry against the small triangle shape panel at the fwd corner of the door to remove
• Remove the small cover with the mirror control, straight up.
• Push the window/lock switch panel forward 1/2" and lift it out.
• Then you gain access to a Phillips head screw, remove that.
• Another small Phillips screw needs to come out at the rear lower corner of the door panel
• Then LIFT only at first, then out a little to free the door panel.

It will be usually near the top of the serpentine belt routing. It will be connected to a pulley that belt goes around this pulley. It will have a ground wire along with a connector. It will have several bolts mounting it to the mount that it is on. It will also have on it vent looking openings. If you look in them you will see copper wire coilings. It is sort of cylinder shaped, but lying long ways. I hope I explained this good.

Many auto parts stores will offer free alternator testing, either on the car, or off.

Testing method:

• Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature
• Connect a voltmeter between the positive and negative terminals of the battery
• Voltage should be 14.1-14.7 volts
• If voltage is higher or lower than specification, connect a voltmeter between the battery positive (B+) voltage output terminal of the alternator and a good engine ground
• Voltage should be 14.1-14.7 volts
• If voltage is still out of specification, a problem exists in the alternator or voltage regulator
• If voltage is now within specification, a problem exists in the wiring to the battery or in the battery itself.

Before starting, make sure you have the belt routing diagram - likely inside the engine compartment somewhere, draw your own, or download one.

The belt tension is not adjustable - the belt tensioner takes care of that. If the belt is loose, the tensioner will have to be replaced.

See "Related Questions" below for more about the serpentine belt.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Disconnect the wire from the terminal - 5/16ths (?)
3. Disconnect remaining wiring connector(s)
4. Detach the serpentine drive belt- if all you're doing is the alternator, you might try putting a piece of tape on the belt as it crossed the various pulleys to hold it in place.
5. Loosen the large, horizontal oriented pivot bolt - goes through the top of the power steering bracket
6. Remove the alternator bracket / brace - 2 bolts & one at the back of the alternator - set it aside for now
7. Now you can remove the pivot bolt
8. Remove the alternator- may have to pry it / weasel it out of the mounting

To install:

1. Position the alternator on the engine
2. Install the alternator pivot bolt and bracket / brace
3. Tighten the:

   * alternator brace to 15-22 ft lbs

   * pivot bolt to 30-41 ft lbs

4. Install the serpentine belt
5. Re-connect the 2 wiring harnesses, and the wire held on with the nut
6. Connect the negative battery cable

Changing the alternator on the 3.8 is very easy. There are only 3 bolts holding it on. There is 1 wiring plug and 1 battery / hot wire connected to it.

1. Disconnect the positive cable from the battery as to avoid any electrical shorting,this will clear any codes and the check engine light if it was on.
2. Remove the nut from the single wire on top of the alternator. Screw the nut back on so you don't loose it.
3. For the wiring plug, just push in on the drivers side of it and pull up and it will come off.
4. Remove the belt - grab the backside of the belt the runs from the top of the alternator towards the back of the van, pull real hard on it towards the front of the van, (be careful not to pinch your fingers between the belt and the pulley) and the tensioner will give allowing you enough room to slide the belt off of the alternator.

   See "Related Questions" below for more about the serpentine belt

5. Then remove the 3 mounting bolts and voila - it's off!

1. Start with remounting the alternator with the 3 bolts
2. Hook up your wire - using that nut you did not loose - and wiring plug
3. Re-install serpentine belt - make sure the belt is around all of the pulleys and lined up correctly and pull again towards the front of the van to slide it back on - again...be careful not to pinch your fingers between the belt and the pulley!
4. Hook the positive wire back up to the battery and then have an assistant to just bump "NOT START" the engine as to get the belts properly aligned.
5. Take a visual inspection and make sure the belts are positioned correctly on the pulleys and then go ahead and start the van.

Good luck!

To remove the alternator on a 1998 ford Windstar if it is a 3.8L engine: FIRST - Remember to disconnect the battery!! Then, remove the tension on the belt. There is a tensioner towards the rear of the engine. Use a good box wrench and pull as much as you can because the tension is hard on those engines. Once you have that off, remove the 3 bolts and they just have to be taken off after that you have to remove the ground. Make sure that it is clean. When reinstalling, put some die electric grease on it. There is 1 electrical connector; unplug it. Also put on reassembly die electric grease in there for better conductivity. You should have the alternator off...just do the reverse to put in the new one.

If the 96 is like the 98, loosen the mounting bracket bolts, make sure you remember which way the serpentine belt goes on, pull off the belt, remove alternator, replace with new one, put belt on, use a pry bar to re-tighten the alternator and tighten bolts.

It was about the easiest thing I have done on my '96 with a 3.8L engine. First always disconnect the battery when removing charging system components for safety. Rather than loosen the tensioner, I was able to grab the serpentine belt past the alternator with my hand and pull against the tensioner to gain enough slack to slip the belt from the alternator pulley with my other hand (careful don't get pinched) . Next remove the cables and electrical connectors. Now you can remove the mounting bolts and remove the alternator. Compare the replacement alternator to the one you removed to insure they are similar enough to install the new alternator. Reverse the process above... Install mounting bolts and torque appropriately, connect cables and connectors, route the serpentine belt, pull slack on the belt and slip it over the alternator pulley, reconnect the battery and check for proper operation. Even with the trip to the parts store, it probably took me less than an hour.

It is not hard to do...the alternator is right on top. Just take the serpentine belt off, remove the bolts and plugs, and bolt the new one in. be careful not to torque the top screw too much or it will break off.

Disconnect the batter cables so you, and car don't get a shock. remove the 2 wire connected to the alternator. One is a Plug, push in on the l/s of the clip and lift up. The other one is held on my a small nut on a stud, Once this is done take a picture of write down the routing of the Serpentine belt, so you know that will be correct when your finished. There are just 3 bolts, loosen them all together. Before you remove the bolts even though they are loose, pull towards you really hard on the belt and pull it off the pulley. Remove the 3 bolts, remove the alternator, replace alternator, tighten 3 bolts, then pull on the belt again and put back on in same orientation, reconnect wire to alternator, reconnect battery, start engine

I just did it. It took about an hour. The instructions to replace a 2000 Windstar's alternator work for the 2002. See: How do you replace the alternator on a 2000 Ford Windstar.

I found that wearing an old work glove made it much easier to pull the belt against the tensioner. Also, when you replace the belt, make certain that the belt is inside the grooves of each of the pulleys. It was off the first time I replaced it. Don't bother trying to push it back; take it off the alternator again and re-thread it.

Once I finished, I started the engine and noticed some whining from the belt. I also noticed that it rode a bit outside of the polished spot on the pulley immediately below which rides on the outside of the belt. I double-checked all the pulleys again, and they were all on. After driving the van the couple of miles to the auto parts store to return the core, it quieted down.

First you disconnect the battery. then you need to take the belt off by the back pulley. But you don't need to take it all the way off. Just so you get the alternator belt off. I just replaced the one on my 1997 . then you have three bolts, and one small nut to remove . Then put all back together the way you took them off. Jon

you have to remove belt and disconect neg battery cable 3 15 mm bolts hold alt on,1 plug then pos.

You must have the car well off the ground because the best way to get to it is from the back of the engine. There's a nut back there that's hidden. Might as well change the rear spark plugs while your there. To change the number 6 you have to remove the alt. bracket anyway.

Removing the belt and alternator and replacing the new one is just as stated above, but putting the belt back on isn't such an easy task on my 2000 windstar. It is very difficult to pull back on the belt to replace it back on the pulley. It takes a fair amount of pulling and when you pull on the belt all the pulleys move so you can't easily place it over the alternator pulley. To remedy this jack the car up on the front passenger side and remove the front passenger side wheel. Then securely place jackstands under the van so that you can easily slide under the car. Locate the belt tensioner which is the small pulley closest to the rear of the van. Call a buddy to help at this point. Have the buddy stand by at the topside of the the van. Place a 13 MM boxend wrench on the retaining bolt for the Belt Tensioner Pulley. Push the wrench toward the front of the van as if trying to remove the bolt (counter-clockwise motion) Push it as far as you can. While you are holding the tensioner have your buddy slip the belt back over the alternator pulley. Once this is done slowly release the tension on the tensioner. Replace the wheel, lower the car and give your buddy a cold drink!

socket wrench breaker bar, 1/2", remove the head (don't know the

name), Normally you can get those socket wrench breaker bar from 15 to

18 inches, I guess. If the bar is too long, you may remove air

conditioner part (don't know how to say the name, you will know what I

am taking about when you get there, )

This is a pretty straight forward replacement - only 2 mounting bolts, a vacuum hose and one other pipe that'll come off with an adjustable wrench.

NOTE: this notice is from the Autozone.com site regarding the EGR valve:

* **Caution!!** Before replacing the EGR Valve, inspect the DPFE/EGR Valve Pressure Feedback Sensor and hoses for proper operation. It is common for a DPFE sensor to set a trouble code See "Related Links" below for the DPFE sensor section of Autozone's online repair guide. It is located at the back of the engine on the top between the engine block and the front windshield. It should be black or chrome colored and kind of looks like a disk, with a small vacuum hose coming out the top of it. Just replaced mine in my Taurus today. Amanda nothing tricky, just be sure to clean the gasket surfaces...also You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with the right info...make copies as they are usually only in the REFERENCE section....good luck:) its located next to the air inlet boot this is the boot that comes from the air cleaner housing the valve should be round black and has a vacuum line going to it But, if you are replacing it because there is a code for it you need to make sure that the valve is cause of it most fords had a problem with a sensor called a DPFE sensor which stands for differential pressure feedback exhaust sensor the problem is they would get moisture from the exhaust causing them to short out on most 99 models the egr valve is connected to the intake manifold.If you look at the top of the engine,while in front of the vehicle with the hood up,look just to the right at the right side of the valve cover tou will see a round shaped two inch thick just underneath clean air intake plenum tube also knownasthe air intake plenumtube hooks to the fender in most vans however this can be a tricky part to replace I sugest you get a chilton or haynes manual to help you out. Just look it up in the index or glossary and read the passage severaltimes before starting the work also pay close atention to how it comes of and apart because installation of the new valve will be reverse the procedure GOOD LUCK and GOD SPEED ---- It is attached to the throttle body. The throttle body is attached to the intake. Look for the large aluminum piece that will say ford, this is the intake. Look for the large tube going in to it, probably from the left if you are facing the windshield. where the large tube goes into the intake, it will first go into another piece of metal with wires etc going into it, this is the throttle body, the egr is on the throttle body. ---- I can answer my own question!! With help from a mechanic friend of mine...back ,top, center of engine, you will find the pod...Good luck to anyone trying to reach it, looks unreachable to me, barely viewable... ---- EGR Valve Inspect | Test | Replace There are many variations from one vehicle application to the next in emission control systems and calibration. Therefore, it is extremely important that you get the correct replacement exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve for the application. Two EGR valves may look identical, but be calibrated differently in terms of flow and the amount of vacuum and/or back-pressure it takes to open the valve. Therefore, you may have to refer to the vehicle's VIN number as well as year, make, model and engine size when ordering a replacement EGR valve. If may also be necessary to refer to the OEM part number on the old EGR valve (if possible) when ordering a replacement. If so, don't throw the old EGR valve away until you have installed the new one and made sure it's working correctly. Many aftermarket EGR valves are "consolidated," so fewer part numbers are necessary to cover a wider range of vehicle applications. Some of these valves use interchangeable restricters to alter their flow characteristics. Follow the suppliers instructions as to which restricter to use for the correct calibration. ---- This part cannot be cleaned....you can check it for replacement by allowing the engine to warm up and you should be able to move the diaphragm in with your finger (from behind)the egr...the factory default is sealed in the front

See "Related Questions" below for a similar discussion over in Taurus group - it all applies quite well to the Windstar ---- Real easy to spot-- Look to the LH side of the engine-- towards front-- It's a little black plastic box 1 inch by 1 1/2 inches square, 2 hoses connect to the bottom of it, and an electrical connector off tot the side. To disconnect the connector you have to squeeze a tab first before pulling, remember!

your check engine light will come and give a code for emmission can't remember the code. Put I had the same problem on my 2001 Ford Ranger.

My 2000 windstar was just doing that same thing. my problem was corrected by changing the transmission range sensor. that is the sensor that is on the top of the tranny which is connected to the shift linkage.

I just went through the same thing on my mothers 2000 ford windstar lx.The overdrive light was continuous blinking the shift solenoids A,B,and C where malfunctioning the torque converter was malfunctioning the car was taking off with very little power.Before you go spending money on expensive sensors and getting a new trans and all that other spit.Check the fuse box under the hood of your car next to the batttery.... fuse # 19 is a 15 amp fuse. It controls your AX4S Transaxel,Vapor Management valve,Egr Solenoids and a bunch of other things like sensors and solenoids.I change the fuse and the car transmission is working just fine the overdrive is no longer blinking ,A word of advice always check your fuses in the car and the ones under the hood Always....SAVE YOUR SELF SOME $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.. FISHMEER....

Contributor Camachov1 wrote:

My 95 Windstar van had the 0733 code, blinking OD light and felt like the engine was losing power. Mine would also jerk at times and make you feel like the transmission was going to fall out the bottom. Also it would start down-shifting on its own.

They told me it could be one of to things needs new transmission or it was the vehicle speed sensor.

Thank goodness it was the vehicle speed sensor (VSS).

I had this problem in a 1996 Windstar LX, dealer replaced the transmission range sensor / manual lever shift position (MLSP) sensor on the transmission; YMMV.

My trans wouldn't shift into 4th and was shifting in and out of 3rd-2nd gear. not real fun on a family outing in the middle of nowhere. P.S.- My LX has an Anti-Lock sensor indicator light on the dash (center) that tells me if I have a problem with the Anti-Lock system. HTH.

on our van it was the vehicle speed sensor.

check your transmission fluid level (engine warm and idling)

you over drive is actually off.... i have the same problem, try changing either the button in the van or it could be the actual over drive senor on the transmission... try not to drive fast speeds until the problem is fixed cuz u can blow ur transmission. my over drive like flashes once i hit about 60-80km followed with a check engine light

possibly because a sensor in the tranny is going bad or the OD part of the tranny is going bad. If the OD action of a tranny is wearing out, it will slip in and out of OD. anythings possible. Hope you find out what the prob is. Happy New Year.

That means there is a malfunction with the transmission. Sometimes it is just that the tranny is overheated.

For model years 1999-2003, and most likely the entire Freestar / Monterey line too: The entire headlamp actually sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring. Picking up the *removal* instructions from the manual: * 3. Pull headlamp assembly forward disengaging the lamp from the rear retainer to expose the back of the bulb.

* 4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the bulb by pulling rearward.

* 5. Remove the bulb retaining ring by rotating it counterclockwise (when viewed from the rear) to free it from the bulb socket, and slide the ring off the plastic base. Keep the ring to retain the new bulb.

* 6. Without turning, remove the old bulb from its socket by gently pulling it straight back out of the lamp assembly. (You may have to wiggle it side-to-side a little while pulling rearward.) Installing the new bulb: NOTE: DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS OF THE NEW BULB! The oil from your hand could cause the bulb to break the next time the headlamps are operated. # With the flat side of the new bulb's plastic base facing upward, insert the glass end of the bulb into the lamp assembly. Turn (rotate) the bulb left or right to align the grooves in the plastic base with the tabs in the lamp assembly. When the grooves are aligned, push the bulb into the lamp assembly until the plastic base contacts the rear of the lamp assembly.

# Install the bulb retain ring over the plastic base until contacts the rear of the socket by rotating clockwise until you feel a "stop."

# Connect the electrical connector into the rear of the plastic base unti it snaps, locking it into position.

# Install the headlamp on the vehicle by aligning the lamp with the rear retainer, push rearward and secure with two retainer pins.

# Turn the headlamps on and make sure they work properly. If the headlamp was correctly aligned before you changed the bulb, you should NOT need to align it again. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Just changed one on mine. Its easy. Under the hood there is a locking ring of sorts holding the lamp in place. Just grab two of the three knobs on this ring and give it a quarter turn. The locking ring pops off and the lamp assembly can be removed. Lift the plastic tab on the lamp holder and pull off the lamp socket. Reinstall in oposite order. Be sure not to touch the glass portion of the new lamp with your fingers -- wear gloves. The oil from your skin will shorten the lamp life if you do. It is possible to release the headlamp so it pulls out, making access to the connector (described above) much easier: NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246. The entire headlamp acutally sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*! There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are: 1) black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide 2) located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment. Release and pull the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring.
The following applies to 1999 - 2003 Windstars. Chances are these steps also apply to the Freestar and Mercury Monterey.

The entire headlamp housing assembly sits inside of a mounting bracket - this means it is very easy to fully release, and remove the headlamp to make bulb replacement much less *painful*!

There are 2 headlight retainer clips to find - they are:

1. black, upside-down L-shaped metal clips about 1/2 inch wide
2. located just behind the top edge of the headlamp glass, inside the engine compartment.

Release by pulling the top towards you while pulling the clips upward. The headlamp assembly will now pull forward providing great access to the electrical connector and bulb retainer ring.

Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab.

With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring.

The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step.

With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose).

Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place.

Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light.

NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246.

Once you've pulled the entire headlight assembly outwards toward yourself, there is a small clip molded into the plug that has to clear the corresponding tab on the bulb assembly itself. You can pull it up SLIGHTLY while you pull the connector straight back (away from you) to remove the cable. Do not break the plastic clip - you only need to raise it about 1/16th inch to clear the tab. With the cable unplugged, look at the back of the bulb assembly. You will see a small ring with three raised "ears". Rotate this counterclockwise about 120 degrees, and the 3 small square tabs under the ring can slip through the ring itself. Remove the ring. The bulb assembly is now exposed. Pull it straight back (away from you) to remove it. It has a rubber ring on the new bulb to seal the entire assembly from water. Do NOT remove the large rubber ring that goes around the retainer ring that you removed in the previous step. With the old bulb assembly removed, open the package for the new bulb. CAUTION: Do NOT touch the bulb itself. Fingertip oil, even very slight, can cause the bulb to fail very quickly. Holding the new bulb by the base, you will see 3 small detents (two of them rather close together, and the other on the opposite side of the base). Line these up with the corresponding marks on the headlight bezel assembly, and then push the bulb assembly gently into place. Once inserted, take the ring from the step above, slide it over the back of the bulb assembly and ensuring that the 3 square black tabs go through the square holes in the ring. Then, twist the ring clockwise about 120 degrees, using the "ears", until the ring is fully engaged. Check that you the square tabs are on the outside of the ring (it's easy to miss one, so that only two of the tabs are engaged - this can result in the bulb being loose). Once locked in place with the ring, reattach the cable (the "D" shape of the plug matches the back of the bulb assembly), and press it into place until the small plastic clip goes up and over the tab on the bulb base, locking the cable in place. Push the headlight bezel assembly back into place, push the "L" shaped metal tabs back into place (straight down, until they click), and test the light. NOTE: This procedure is detailed & illustrated in the Owner's Manual that came with the car, approximately page 246.

I have a 2000 Windstar SE, and just had to remove the door panel to replace the lock actuator. Here are the steps I took:

Windstar: Removing Inner Door Panel

- Remove two screws from bottom of door. - Carefully pop triangular black fascia from upper front corner (pry from top with flat head screwdriver), then remove screw behind it. - Pop trim piece from inner door handle (pry from front) - Pop power lock/window panel loose (pry around), then unplug switches. - Remove two screws very deeply inset on armrest. - Gently lift upward and outward on door inner. Once you have a gap, twist and release the light socket in the inner door panel.

- If removing lock assembly, unscrew the three nuts holding the outer door handle, then remove it from the outside. - Disconnect the two electrical connectors from the lock assembly if removing.

I do not know what year you have but I have a 1999 WS and you have to replace the whole assembly (framework and motor, motor is not sold seperatly). You will need to remove the door panel and all mounting bolts for the framework. The whole thing will then slide out (not easily) through the cut outs on the door. Replace with the new unit just like the old one was removed. This will take two people. One person will need to hold the window while the other is working with the assembly. I replaced mine with much cussing and swearing in about 2 hours. It is not a hard job just aggravating.

Note: I changed the mirror on the passenger door, but most of these instructions apply to either side.

Tools you will need: Large flathead screwdriver, Philips screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, socket wrench with 7/16-inch socket.

The mirror is held on by three nuts on the inside of the door. Getting to two of them is quite easy -- it's the third one that requires taking off the interior door panel, as mentioned below. If you are moderately handy with tools, you can do it yourself. Otherwise, take it to a mechanic. Also, it helps to have a second person available.

1. Roll down the window and open the van door in question. Pop off the black plastic cover at the top and front of the door panel by prying gently on the top of the cover with a large flathead screwdriver. The cover is held in place by three metal tension clips. This uncovers one of the mirror nuts.

2. Just forward of the door panel, you will find a round rubber plug. Pull this out of its hole to reveal nut #2.

3. Gently pry off the black plastic cover that surrounds the interior door handle. It is held in place by three metal tension clips. As it comes loose, slip it off over the door handle. (This is the one step where the driver and passenger doors are different. On the driver's door, the electric mirror control is mounted in this black plastic cover. You will probably need to disconnect a small wire harness from the back of this control in order to completely remove the cover, or just leave it dangling by the wires.)

4. Gently pry up the front end of the lighter-colored plastic piece to which the electric window and lock switches are mounted. Once the front is loose, pull the piece forward to fully loosen it. It can be left sitting loosely with the wires still attached.

5. You have now uncovered a Philips-head screw just where the switch carrier meets the armrest in the door panel. This screw attaches the door panel to the door. Remove it.

6. There are two Philips-head screws at the very bottom of the door panel. Remove them.

7. The door panel is now free and is being held in place because it is hooked over the window opening. Carefully lift up the panel, clearing the lock post, and pull the panel away from the door. You do not need to remove it fully but can find a way to rest it on the door.

8. You have now uncovered the third and final mirror nut -- it may be hidden behind another rubber plug like you removed in step 2.

9. About 8 inches below this third nut, you will find the connection for the mirror wire harness. Disconnect the wire harness and push the loose end into the door.

10. Remove the three mirror nuts with a socket wrench and 7/16-inch socket. The mirror will probably need to be pried away from the door because the foam sealant material has it stuck on. Once the mirror comes fully free, carefully pull the wire harness out of the door.

11. Follow these steps in reverse (more or less) to install the new mirror and replace the panel and other trim pieces (don't forget the rubber plug that ends up under the door panel!).

you have to pull off the door panel first. the are plastic pieces that need to be pried off and screws that are hidden. i would suggest taking it to a shop and let them do it. they shouldn't charge you more than $50 (independent shop) $100 (dealership). the pieces that can and will break are much more expensive.

first you will need to remove the door panel. Then you see behind the mirror on the door 3 nuts to remove and if electric you will need to unplug the jack first.

Not sure if it will be the same for the 2000 Windstar. I changed the whole mirror assembly on my 98 passanger side. There are 3 nuts holding the assembly on the door. You must first remove the inside door panel by removing the cover around the door opener handle. There is a screw behind it once that is removed you can remove the panel by lifting up on the panel. you can then unplug the power window and lock buttons if you like( it does make it easier). then you have access to the nuts holding the mirror assembly one once you remove the little black rubber plugs. Unplug the power mirror cable and then reinstall the new one in the opposite order as the removal. .

The door panel could then be removed by lifting up and towards the back of the car. The two power connectors near the middle of the panel unplug by depressing a tab on them and the courtesy light near the bottom rear of the door panel can be removed by twisting counter clockwise.

There are 3 nuts holding on the mirror assembly, two of which are under black plastic/rubber hole-filler grommets. Be careful not to drop the nuts down in the door panel! I used an 11mm socket with a magnet to keep the nuts from dropping.

The power connector for the mirror motor/heater is under some white foam sound proofing. I peeled back a portion of it to expose the power connector. After unplugging the connector, I tied a piece of sturdy string to the old power connector before removing the mirror so that the string "fished" through the door panel as I removed the mirror and cord. I then untied the string from the old connector and tied it onto the new mirror's connector and pulled the cord back through the door panel. I think it would be very difficult otherwise to get the connector back through the door panel.

The remainder of the installation was just a reverse of the removal.

MirrorGlassPlus.com offers replacement mirror glass which is an exact match to your existing factory mirror. That means it will have the same size, shape, bend and features as your existing factory mirror. Installation is always quick and easy, typically taking about 30 minutes. * Smooth seamed edges for safe handling * First-surface chrome reduces glare * Part# lasered on every mirror * Protective safety-orange packaging * Installation guide printed right on the box * Includes Redi Stick® adhesive patches

To learn how to remove and replace any car or truck mirror, go to the how to install a car mirror page at

www.auto-glass.com/carmirror.htm

You can also order any mirror from 1946 to present day

I have seen both entire mirror housings and just replacement mirrors on e-bay. There are affordable choices also for the mirrors with the integrated heating element and the ones with the built-in turn-signal / open door lights.

One of my 2001 Windstar mirrors pieces came loose and I found it was attached with simple double-sided foam tape. $3 later, it was firmly back in place and I still have enough tape for another 20 or 30 mirror fixes.

Mine did the same thing, and with a bit of simple double-backed / sided sticky tape fixed it.

Gently pry the mirror totally away, clear off the remaining sticky tape, apply new tape and reattach.

Our 98' Windstar had a cracked driver's side rear-view mirror. The local Ford dealership said you have to replace the ENTIRE mirror assembly and wanted $325 to do so--a bit ridiculous when only the glass is cracked!! Took the car to an auto glass shop and they ordered and then replaced the glass mirror for a bit under $20. Some dealerships must think that the average customer has only a single digit IQ.

I don`t know the exact procedure for replacing the glass but I can offer this. It is even easier to replace the mirror itself and cheap, by going to the scrap yard to get one. Remove the screws at the bottom of the door panel. lift up panel, unplug electrical housings. remove mirror-replace mirror. Follow same steps in the other direction to put panel back on.

I had to replace the mirror on a Passenger side 1998 Ford Winstar a few months ago. The glass mirror fell off. Turns out, you have to replace the mirror assemble. It is made up of the glass mirror, and the black plastic backing that the mirror is glued to. If memory serves, the cost is about $35. The black plastic assembly simply clips into place. Go buy the replacment. It's easy to figure out.

An even better buy on a complete mirror ($45 shipped) at this e-Bay store: http://stores.ebay.com/AutoPartsAvenue. Mirror came very well packed and protected. The glass mirror alone costs around $25, then you have to figure out how to attach it.

I bought a complete side mirror from a store on EBAY, and had great luck. Check out their listings: http://stores.ebay.com/am-autoparts

Ford dealer.

Any junk yard should carry them. Mine fell off on my 98 Windstar and it cost $65.

Blown gaskets are usually caused overheating and are very difficult to replace. It is worth it replacing if you want to drive this car again. If you drive it without repairing it, severe engine damage will occur.

The "manifold to head" bolts can be challenging, but shouldn't stop you from trying. The bigger question you face is "is it just a head gasket?" It is possible that the gasket may have been blown from warpage in the head, in which case the head should go to a machine shop for cleaning, pressure testing, maybe magna-fluxing for cracks, and machining if it is okay. You could put it together and still have a problem. So send it to a machine shop unless you are just going to get a reman head. I don't know what size engine you have, so I can't get too specific, I would guess a 2.2 or 2.5. Fair chance of a cracked head if so. Tightening specs and sequence are important for the head bolts. Plan on new ones, toss the old ones. Get a new thermostat while you're in it. Overheating can damage a thermostat.

Getting back to the original question, yes, you can do this, be patient. IF a bolt snaps a machine shop can help you. Continue to research this before you start. Good luck.

Note that what seems like a blown gasket can also be a warped or cracked head. Get this checked out before re-assembly, particularly if the car has overheated.

It's not necessarily a tough job, but it's one of the more finicky; after all, the factory presumably did the best job possible, and the gasket still blew, so you don't want to do a sloppy job. Although, any reasonably good job will last a while.

Some cars are easier than others. Whatever Ford compact had a rash of head gasket failures like in the 90s sometime and the dealers learned they can just undo the bolts, lift the head half an inch, pull out the old gasket with a pair of needle pliers and slide in the new gasket, and put it all back together again, all within half an hour, and collect 4 hours pay from the warranty book. Last time I did one, it took me all winter, but that was because it was too cold outside most of the time. Worked fine though. Until I overheated again.

The thing is, that just replacing the gasket isn't always the best idea. If the engine has a lot of miles on it and is burning oil, etc. might as well put a rebuilt head on as long as you're doing the work. Plus if the gasket blew because the head warped because it overheated, you should probably not put the warped head back on or it will eventually blow again. Thus the rebuilt head, which is ground flat before they rebuild it. (Which in itself causes some problems with cam timing, but that's another matter.....)

If the rings are shot, then the engine needs a total rebuild don't bother with anything less.

Lately, it's become almost more practical to just swap a used engine (or engine/trans, if its a FWD) from a junkyard instead of doing the gasket; it's more work and you're not likely to do it yourself, but the mechanic will likely guarantee it, assuming he gets to pick the engine; whereas they're reluctant to guarantee a head gasket for very long, given how finicky it is.

As for the cause, like everybody says, if you have an aluminum head, as most (all?) compact imports do, overheating will do it. Not right away, usually, but within a few months. The aluminum warps, and the uneven pressure is enough to let the gasket blow out. And the overheating is often due to a clogged radiator, or a leak that loses coolant, or a blown hose, or some such. Could be a long period of mild overheating, or a sudden high overheating. With me, it was always blowing a hose (or a hose clamp) on the highway, because you can lose all the coolant real quick and not notice any steam, like you would on the street at low speed.

Your blown head gasket was caused by some other problem that may or may not still exist when you are done repairing the head gasket.

First you will need to raise the car and put safety stands under it to prevent any possibility of falling. Also you must chock the rear wheels to keep the car from rolling and coming off the jack stands while up in the air. The car will want to roll when you are reefing on the bolts.

1. Disconnect the battery cables at the battery.
2. Disconnect the two wires to the starter.
3. The larger wire runs through a standoff above the starter. It makes the job easier if you will remove the bolt holding the standoff to the engine block. This allows you to move the large wire out of your way.
4. Remove the two bolts holding the starter onto the flywheel housing. One bolt is easy to get at as it is visible on the front but the second one is hidden up behind the starter.

   NOTE: Starter bolts are 13mm. Brakeline bracket bolt is 15mm.

5. Do the opposite to install.

While you have the starter off you have exposed the gear teeth on the edge of the flywheel. You should inspect the teeth as your problem could be these teeth and not the starter. Use a crayon or chalk to put a mark on the flywheel so you will know when you have turned it completely around. You can use a large screwdriver or some other tool to pry on these teeth and rotate the flywheel around, one complete revolution

The starter is located on the lower front of the engine and is visible thru the air duct.

Lower front of the engine, accessed from below.

Follow a rather large gauge wire leading down to the starter.

Disconnect the negative wire from the battery before removing the starter.

Disconnect connected wires, remove 2 mounting bolts.

Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, then remove the wire to the selenoid .

Remove the two bolts holding the starter,and with some manuvering the starter will come out of the vehicle. Reverse the process to install.

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

The starter is located on the front of the engine near the bottom in the middle next to the transmission.

Bolts that hold the starter on: 3 - 15mm bolts and on some you also need to remove the 2- 8 mm bolts on the rear support on back of the starter

the starter is located in the front of the motor in the middle its in eye veiw in front of radiatorGeneral instructions for replacing a starter (2 mounting bolts):

# Disconnect the negative battery cable# Raise and support the vehicle safely# Disconnect the starter electrical harness# Remove the upper starter bolt# Support the starter and remove the lower bolt# Remove the starter from the vehicle

everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the REFERENCE section...make copies of the right sections...good luck :)

According to the Owners Manuals:

1996 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30*

1997 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30*

1998 Windstar 3.0 & 3.8: 4.5 quarts - 5w30*

1999 Windstar 3.0 engine: 4.5 quarts

3.8 engine: 5.0 quarts

2000 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w30*

2001 Windstar 3.8: 5.75 quarts - 5w20

2002 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w20

2003 Windstar 3.8: 5.0 quarts - 5w20 (synthetic blend)

See "Related Links" or search on FORD TSB 02-1-9 for more details.

NOTE: It is always best to refer to the Owners Manual that came with the vehicle to ensure the information is correct to that specific car.

Motorcraft 5w20, synthetic blend.

Good news is this is a very affordable product, and I don't hesitate to let it run the entire 5,000 mile change schedule.

Check the Owners Manual for more detail...

See "Related Links" or search on FORD TSB 02-1-9 for more details.

FORD TSB 02-1-9 5w20 Oil Recommend - PDF file*http://fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/supplier/tsb/0219.pdf

5w20 semi-synthetic motor oil is what the owners manual calls for.

The transmission takes Mercon V It would depend on which size motor and oil pan it has. With the standard 6 cylinder engine, with the standard factory oil pan which is the most likely unless modifications has been done. The oil capacity should be 4.5 quarts without filter change. Last I changed the oil in my windstar with oil filter change it took 5.0 quarts of oil.

Start with 4.5 quarts if you change the oil filter also. And then check oil. If the level is below the full mark, add another half quart of oil to the engine oil.

my 2002 holds 5 qts. with a oil filter

5 w 30 ( according to the owners manual )

5.75 quarts of 5w20.

( 5 w 30 ) according to the owners manual

The oil capacity is approximaly 5.4 quarts of oil. Install 5 quarts and check level on dipstick.

The 2003 Ford Windstar owners manual shows ( 5 quarts with filter change )

of engine oil for your 3.8 liter - V6 engine

( 5 w 30 ) is the preferred oil according to the Owner Guide

the front wheel bearing for the windstar comes as a complete hub assembly. you have to remove the brake caliper,rotor,and axel. then remove the 3 12mm 12 point bolts holding the assembly on the spindle. beat the old hub and bearing out with a hammer and install the new one !

Note: Not all bearing have that 3-bolt connect. If yours DOES, consider yourself lucky! If it doesn't, you'll likely have to take the knuckle to a machine shop and have them press it out & in.

Note: Had trouble with hub after being pressed,as axle would not tighten up enough to hold in place...Suggest replacing half-axle (easy and cheap) if hub does not tighten down and stay tight. Had to have my hub pressed TWICE before I caught on.

The trans axle must be removed from the steering knuckle. Loosen trans axle nut and remove wheel. Remove brake caliper and disc. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link at top or bottom. Disconnect lower ball joint steering knuckle at pinch bolt and pry lower arm down out of joint. Remove the trans axle nut. A puller is required to push the trans axle through the hub. Remove wheel hub from bearing by prying at the front and hammer and punch from the rear. Clean and remove the bearing"C" clip at rear. Punch the bearing out towards the engine. Install new bearing in the reverse order. Note: A torch may be required to remove bearing from steering knuckle. Most difficult parts are removing hub and removing bearing.

I did mine without punching or torch by using a regular machine shop press. Just remove the hub assembly off the vehicle (one additional bolt IIRC)to remove from the previous comment in this thread, and setup on said press, use a round dummy of right size and old one slides out, new one slides in. Ben

They changed the design on this at some time. Your may press in, or it may use a 3 bolt system. Either way, you DO have to take the knuckle off. If you're not mechancially inclined, or you don't have significant upper-body strength (you, not the car), take it to a pro.

First one I did, took about 4 hours. Had the Ford dealer machine shop press it out & in (took them 30 minutes - they said sometimes they stick pretty bad). After $30 to the shop, and $50 for a new bearing, total cost $80. They said they'd do the whole thing for $150.

So the NEXT time one went (different Windstar, what can I say, I like 'em), I said to myself "No way I'm laying on the garage floor, screwing with that knuckle, etc, for a lousy $70" I took it to the dealer and let them fight with it. Best $70 I ever spent!!!!

The fronts are pressed into the hub assembly and better off to use a mechanic shop for that. The rears are very easy on that model - 2 piece bearing + seal, grease and torque to stop then back off till turn easy... install new cotter pin.

This is not easy . Get a manual on your car and it will have pictures and everything.

The step-by-step procedures are detailed & illustrated in Autozone.com's free online Chiltons repair guide - See "Related Links" below.

Notes:

• the steering knuckle needs to be completely removed from the vehicle - overall not such a bad under-taking.
• The new bearing needs to be pressed into the steering knuckle - be sure to check the auto parts stores if they'll be able to handle that part of the process for you.
• This is a good time to check the condition of the axle; CV joint boots; tie rod ends; lower ball joints; control arm bushings; stabilizer bar links; brake pads, etc. Since it's completely apart, easy enough to put it back together with new parts & save lots of time & effort in future repairs.

Yes the front wheel bearing for your ford winstar is pressed in with a hydraulic press.

Mercon V is the specified fluid type

Recommend a Synthetic ATF - it will last longer and resist the heat better as well. You could also install the separate Transmission oil cooler and filter to help prolong the transmission life.

1995-1998 - 12.25 qts. / 11.6 liters

1999-2003 - 13.7 qts. / 13.0 liters

• After a fluid / filter change with just the pan off - it would take only 4.5 qts. to fill it back up. (The rest remains in the transmission lines, gears, torque converter etc).
  
  
• One should not have to add more than a quart or two - more than this indicates a serious problem or leak.

• NOTE: Automatic transmission fluid expands when warmed. To obtain an accurate fluid check, drive the vehicle until it is warmed up (approximately 30 km [20 miles]). If your vehicle has been operated for an extended period at high speeds, in city traffic during hot weather or pulling a trailer, the vehicle should be
  turned off for about 30 minutes to allow fluid to cool before checking.
  
  
• Drive the vehicle 30 km (20 miles) or until it reaches normal operating temperature.
  
  
• Park the vehicle on a level surface and engage the parking brake.
  
  
• With the parking brake engaged and your foot on the brake pedal, start the engine and move the gearshift lever through all of the gear ranges. Allow sufficient time for each gear to engage.
  
  
• Latch the gearshift lever in P (Park) and leave the engine running.
  
  
• Now it's time to pull the dipstick - wipe it clean - make sure it goes all the way back way in to get a good reading
  

Through the dipstick tube if automatic transmission.
Through a removable plug on the side of the transmission if standard/manual trans.

Refill through dipstick tube DO NOT OVERFILL

• A long funnel will be handy to reach the top of the dipstick tube.
• Put in small amounts at a time to avoid over-filling
  

You'll need a funnel with a somewhat long tube in order to reach down into the engine compartment to the top of the tube. This is well detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

Transmission fluid goes into the same small tube that the transmission dipstick is in.

You'll need a funnel with a somewhat long tube in order to reach down into the engine compartment to the top of the tube. This is well detailed and illustrated in the Owners Manual - See "Related Questions" below for more

Another approach:

There is a way to do this from inside the engine compartment on 1999+ 3.8l Windstars. Tedious & possibly gonna scratch your arm up, but easier than pulling motor mounts and exhaust pipes.

Location: Directly underneath the middle spark plug on the back of the engine - about 3" down, and inserted into the top of the transmission. There is a metal shield that is held in place with the same hold-down bolt that secures the sensor.

Access:

• Clear the right side of the engine compartment - the rubber piece & left side of the air cleaner housing. Couple of 5/16 hose clamps, couple of sensor plugs & 1 vacuum line to the back of the rubber connector.
• Throttle cables & mount - release the 2 cables & 2 10mm bolts for the mount.
• I would strongly suggest pulling the cowling! As every Windstar owner knows, this cowling is the biggest impediment to getting access to almost everything at the backside of the engine. Removing it isn't a big deal (especially after you've done a few times ;)), and is detailed in various postings here on Answers.com
• Optional: release the coilpack from its 3 mounting bolts (weird size, something like 7mm)

  NOTE: don't rush and forget to secure the radio noise capacitor thingy under the leftside hold down bolt.

Getting at the bolt:

• Socket extension combination to clear the angles - 8mm socket + universal + 6-8" extension + 8-10" WOBBLE extension.

  TIP: tape the joints together so your extension assembly doesn't come apart as you're pushing & pulling it up and down

• The opening you're aiming for is to go down alongside the middle sparkplug. There's plenty of interference what with wires & exhaust manifolds, but this is the opening that aligns with the top of the bolt.
• Your arm, if it's long enough (thank goodness I have monkey-arms!), can go down to the right of the braided covered heater hose and turn left to the backside of the engine.

  Once your hand is down there and has figured out where things are, you're ready to use it to guide the socket into place & onto the bolt

• Use your left hand to find the correct opening and lower the extension assembly.

  This is a totally blind operation! You will never see the pieces you're working with.

• Have a 2nd pair of hands to help! They come in really handy when it comes time to operate the wrench.
• NOTE: because of the angles, the top of the socket extension assembly is going to end up real close to the firewall - thus the universal + the wobble to accommodate the angles from above.

Assuming you don't dislocate your shoulder or bleed-out from scratching your arm to shreds, you should be able to get the 25mm long bolt out!

Lift and remove the cover, and the sensor should rotate in the open pretty easily.

Removing the sensor: This is the hard part because you can't easily get upward pull as you twist the sensor in its opening! Just keep twisting and lifting - it'll come out... eventually!

This is one of the most painful, awkward & frustrating things I have done on a vehicle!

But in my circumstance, well worth the effort.

Btw, don't do this unless you know for 100% sure your sensor has failed - you're not going to enjoy the experience.

Best of luck! :)

Answer:

Forget what the manual says! It will have you remove the exhaust pipe which is hell if its old and rust; and after that you will have to feel your way around the sensor as the angle is bad. Also, it puts you hand in a cramped position to try and ratchet the mounting bolt on the sensor which is on top and away from you.

I had to change mine and this most direct approach that is least problematic. The sensor is located on top of the transmission right behind the passenger side rear engine mount. Jack up the car and support it safely on a jack stand. Then remove the passenger side front wheel and fender guard to get access to the engine and mount. You got to remove the mount and mount supporting bracket on the engine to get enough clearance to the sensor (which requires lifting the engine some. Last resort you can use your floor jack and a block of 2x4 wood to do it only don't lift on the oil pan or crank shaft pulley. I tend to use the area where the oil pan bolts to the block. Make sure to unbolt the bottom of both the front and rear engine mount first and then lift slowly and carefully so not to cause damage anywhere). As soon as I remove the mount, I usually lower the engine back down to be safe as floor jacks can be unstable.

This part is difficult to describe as I can't accurately remember, but, the transmission has a hump or cap on top of it. You'll see the sensor plugged into it from the opposite side that faces away from you. You'll spot the sensor after removing the mount and you'll see what I am trying to describe. Its common sense. There is only one bolt and you have to feel around the sensor for it where it plugs into the hump/cap. I don't remember the size of the socket but you can research that. Because of the confine space, use a small socket wrench.

Make sure you clean and wipe the area before removing the sensor. Otherwise, debris can fall inside the hole where the sensor goes and re-installing the sensor can be sticky. So a mild lube on the sensor housing (not the gear!) helps to slide it into the hump.

If your car is really old, it might be wise to purchase an extra pigtail connector that plugs the car computer into the sensor. Because the sensor is so close to bank 1 of the engine, the heat and weather overtime can make the pigtail brittle and it can break during unhooking. That happened to me.

I just finished looking at this problem on my 1998 Windstar. The air ducts are vacuum operated. The short answer is that by sealing off the lines that run to the rightmost switch on the heater control panel (the one that controls heating and cooling in the rear of the van), it cleared up the "stuck in defrost" problem. To test the solution, I unplugged the two-line vacuum connector at the back of the switch and put a piece of electrical tape on the connector to seal it. The long answer follows below:

The rest of these answers are correct that a vacuum leak can cause this problem. I have not looked upstream of the switches (into the engine compartment) for any leaks there, but my jury-rig at the rear fan control switch worked. There are two vacuum diaphragms that control where the air flow goes (defrost/vent/floor). These are located by your gas pedal and the center console, and are silver colored metal canisters about one half the size of a soup can. I sucked on these with a vacuum hose and they re-directed the air fine and held vacuum fine, so they were not the problem.

Moving upstream from the vacuum diaphragms there are 6 vacuum lines in the back of the main heater control switch. One of these lines is black, and is a vacuum source (ultimately from the engine). This black line has a tee in it right behind the switch, and another black vacuum line runs from that tee to the rightmost switch on the console (which controls heating and cooling in the back of the van). That switch has just two vacuum lines to it. The black source line, and the white outlet line. I removed that two-line vacuum connector from the rear of the switch, put a piece of electrical tape over the holes, and now the main heat selector switch directs the air properly to the defrost, vent, or floor. That rightmost switch may be bad since I could hear a vacuum leak in it, and moving the switch to different positions or pressing on it could stop the hissing. It is also possible that the connector leaks, but since moving the switch changes or stops the hissing, it is most likely the switch itself. The only other possibility is that if there is low vacuum to the switch in the first place, it could cause the switch to leak. I will check that further.

There is a vacuum switch that controls an air gate that diverts the air flow to the proper outlet. Blowing air out the defroster is the default setting of the switch. Most common causes of this problem are vacuum leaks. Check the vacuum hose on the passenger side engine compartment first. It usually leaks going through the fire wall. Regardless this problem is most often always the result of a leak somewhere in the vacuum system not the failure of the switch itself.

I would say that something is binding or broken with the blender box unit. It is the mechanism that allows mixing of the different air settings and is located behind the dash area or under the passenger side area. Hope this helps.

On my '98 Windstar, this behavior was the result of a vacuum leak; the HVAC modes are vacuum-actuated.

change the a/c - heat selector switch.

More likely than not you have a vac leak there are to vac lines that run out of the firewall behind the glove box one is red and the other is black trace them out and you will find the leak probably real close to the nipple on the manifold.

Check for a vacuum leak either under hood or under dash

Check vacuum actuators

Defrost is the default setting for this system

The most likely is the vacuum line used to operate the swinging doors to redirect airflow is broken or not in place.

You have a broken or disconnected vacuum line that feeds the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) system, probably under the hood. When ever there is a loss of vacuum, the system reverts to the defrost mode being the most important mode.

Your problem can be caused by either a defective heater control switch or more likely a vacuum leak. The leak can be in the vacuum supply tube to the heater control switch or at the engine where the supply tube originates or the vacuum reserve (usually a plastic ball in the engine compartment with two small vacuum lines attached).