Try turning the headlight switch clockwise (opposite of most vehicles)
probably no gas, if there is gas then your gauge in the tank is broken or frozen
Not all vehicles come from the factory with an engine block heater, chances are yours did not. Call your dealer where you purchased your vehicle. Or call your local dodge dealer. If your vehicle has one, (most likely does not) your dealer will tell you where it is.
unfortunatly the golfs do not come stock with a block heater. get one, and have a local machanic install it for you I have a 05' Golf GLS 5-door and the cord is right next to the battery box (mine was tucked inside) on the front driver's side of the engine bay.
Well, you really don't want to repair it. What you need to do is pull the head off, check or have a professional check if it has any cracks in it, If not (if so, you'll need a new head) just scrape, or use a certified foam cleanser to remove old gasket and seal (probably an orange or blue colored silicone), be sure it is clean! Then buy a new gasket (15-40$) and a tube of HighHeat silicone. Although the manufacture doesn't recomend a silicone seal, it does provide some added protection. Take a small ammount of silicone and place it on the ridges which are around the edge of your block (where the head sits) then place the gasket on the block. To provide a better fit, you should lay your new gasket on the trunk of your car in the sun. This will expand the gasket and make it more flexible. The place the head over the gasket. When tightening the bolts, just get each one started first. Then go around and tighten them to the recommended strength(should be an ammount of lbs.), or just tighten them down where they fit snugly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! This will result in a poor seal and will cause another blown gasket. Let the silicone cure overnight, and your finished.
I hear that the problem is the pressure to the fuel pump. Also have heard that the alternator is the problem. To be honest, I cannot figure out why mine will not start either. I have replaced the fuel filter, O2 sensors, thermostat, reset the inertia switch, and spark plugs and wires.... nothing has worked yet.
I have had the same problem, 2cd Explorer. I replaced the fuel relay. No problems now
If car still overheats after changing the thermostat the water pump the headgaskets and the radiator what else would cause it to overheat?
From what you describe it sounds like you might have an air lock in your cooling system. I would recommend that you bleed any and all air out of the cooling system. The bleeder valve is located on top of the engine. Once engine starts to overheat or when you can hear bubbling back into the overflow bottle, turn car off and open bleeder valve. If you see bubbling you have air in your system. Bleed the system a couple of times and see if this helps.
if it still overheats after that like my BMW 318 does you could be looking at a crack in the engine as i think that's my next option
but also check or renew your heater matrix and temp sensors and use a rad leak in your rad even though its a new one as the leak could be in the engine so might seal it
In a well designed house the lights are not connected to the same circuit as an appliance. If by going out you are saying that a breaker trips, then your appliances and lights combined are exceeding the rating of the breaker. You either need to rewire and balance the loads better or plug high current appliances into different outlets on another breaker. If you are not tripping breakers, but lights are just dimming you have a bigger problem with inadequate current supplying your house.
It has poor regulation and wastes energy.
I'm not sure, but i think the windstar (99) has two seprate computers, one is on the fire wall, and one is in front of hte passenger seat, under the glove box
the pcm is under the wiper cover on the pass side i just replaced one.
It is on the right-hand side and is only accessible from the engine bay. You have to remove the plastic cover against the windshield and remove the metal windshield wiper assembly. It is not difficult.
1995: Left inner fender just in front of the firewall
Most likely warped brake discs
A camshaft synchronizer is a device driven off the camshaft that couples to a sensor that tells the car's powertrain computer at what point of rotation the camshaft is. The information from the sensor is used by the powertrain computer to time the spark that will ignite the air-fuel mixture in the cylinders. Many engines using camshaft synchronizers are older designs that were originally designed to have a conventional distributor; the camshaft synchronizer mounts in the same place as the distributor used to.
I can speak regarding the 95' model, I expect the 99' to be similar:
First, the chime is a "box" under the dash near where the driver's right hand would be, but that is not your problem. The chime activates when the "open door" switch engages. You may think that the switch is okay because your dome light comes on when you open your door, but a-ha! You have been fooled like me. There are three wires that go to the driver's side Open Door switch and when the door is open, the three wires connect to ground, completing the circuit. The stainless steel screw that holds the switch in is part of the circuit to ground.
1. go buy a new switch at the dealer, or
2. remove and repair your switch (it is real easy):
Remove the screw that holds the switch on and remove the wire connector, there will be a "catch" which will need to be pried up to remove the connector. Once disconnected, pull the connector out a little so it hangs outside of the car body.
Inspect the switch, it was assembled by pushing to major parts together and two little hook thingies (catches) hooked in to two square holes to hold it together. To preserve the orientation of the parts for reassembly, put a little scratch mark on the plunger and switch body. Get a little screw driver and pry the plastic to free the hooks and it will come apart. Don't do this over the lawn or you will loose some parts. You will see that the plunger has an electrical copper "wiper" on it and the switch body has some brass or copper strips. The wiper runs up and down these strips. There will be some blue corrosion on the strips, you can scrape them with a knife. Scrape the wipers were they contact the strips, if needed also. When everything is all clean, reassemble. I put dielectric grease on all of the copper or brass prior to reassembly. If you don't have any, buy a tube. You should always have some, it prevents corrosion. I might use Chap Stick or Vaseline in a pinch. The plunger only goes in two ways, I think either way will work. Reassemble the switch. Put the rubber boot on, put a little silicone grease on the screw, hook up the electrical connector and screw the switch back into to car. If your rubber boot is broken, steal one from one of the other doors that you don't use very often, it is easy to switch.
If you want to verify the solution before you fix the switch, try this:
connect each wire in the electrical connector to ground. One will make the dome light go on, another will make the "head lights on" chime sound-off (you have to turn the head lights on first!), and the other should sound when the keys are left in the ignition.
Of course, you must make a good ground connection while testing. Paint is not an electrical connection, put the screw back in it's hole, you can use that to connect to ground.
"every eye shall see Him..."
A bad rotor would not necessarily cause a bad vibration as it would most likely create a noise and wear your break pads down unevenly. It could be as simple as an unbalanced tire or a warped rim. Also if your tires are choppy then a vibration can become noticeable. Also a bad bearing or axle could cause vibration (however, it would be noticeable at a lower speed).
bad u-joint on your vehicle
or a wheel balance
but i would look at u-joints first
I believe they are also called (stabilizer bar),they are behind the front tires,1 on each side of course.Usually you start hearing a knocking sound when hitting bumps.People say to exchange both at the same time but not necessary.Get them fixed asap because they wear down the connection area and you don't want them to break while driving because you could lose steering ability.
I'm weak on Ford's, but as far as I know the sway bar goes across from one wheel to the other in front of the wheels. Damage from impact or worn rubber bushings.
Nothing to do but buy new emblems. My 2006 F250 Amarillo's badges are peeling already. A real kick in the giggle berries for a $60k truck.
Diverter is improperly engaging in the dash. Turn all dash switches off. Turn on truck, turn heater switch to max heat, then turn switch to vent. Feel any heat coming from dash? Now turn fan up a notch. You may hear the diver flap engage, and air gets cooler. Got drop dash to fix it
The question you ask is too involved for a proper answer. You may want to go to a car parts store, or book store, and get a repair manual for your car. They cost about $16.00 Or, go to a Public Library.